Depends on how extensive it is. If it is just those areas you pictured, it doesn't seem too bad. Just remove the affected components and clean up the board.
Go ahead and post full photos of the board for a better assessment.
First I used vinegar to neutralize the battery acid and stop it from going ahead.
Then cleaned it and fixed what was not working.
I believe there was a thread or posting about using Zep acidic toilet bowl cleaner to remove the alkaline .
Quoted from lucky1:First I used vinegar to neutralize the battery acid and stop it from going ahead.
Then cleaned it and fixed what was not working.
vinegar actually doesn't do a whole lot--it's not acidic enough to counteract the alkaline. zep toilet bowl cleaner works much better, and you can actually see the reaction happening where the alkaline is removed and dissolved.
Quoted from ThatOneDude:Most of the driver board looks like it has some level of green corrosion on the solder joints. About half of the mpu board does. Everything roughly above the batteries seems to still be relatively shiny.
You'll have a fair number of components to replace, but it looks like all the traces and pads are intact, which is the main thing.
Quoted from ThatOneDude:Got a mess of cold solder joints, too
That's fairly typical of these boards when they haven't been refurbished. All the header pins should be replaced anyway at this point.
If you want to rescue that board, you'll need to take off and replace/clean all the affected components, neutralize/scrub away the damage, replace components, and cover the exposed traces from scrubbing with something like clear nail polish. This is a great thread on the topic: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stripping-battery-corrosion-with-a-strong-acid
If you go down this route, make sure to invest in decent desoldering and soldering guns.
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