WARNING!! This thread may cost you money. Comments please.

(Topic ID: 167561)

WARNING!! This thread may cost you money. Comments please.


By dantina

2 years ago



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  • 760 posts
  • 123 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 80 days ago by Litedpinballmods
  • Topic is favorited by 123 Pinsiders

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There are 761 posts in this topic. You are on page 15 of 16.
#701 3 months ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Hey Dan will a 2 amp power supply power the panel light and the speaker lights? I've already got a 2 amp and 1 amp power supply plugged into the service outlet, the game was a reimport. There is a sticker next to the fuse, it says 5 amp 230v and there's an 8 amp fuse in it and the sticker by the outlet says 1 amp 230v - 2 amp 120v.

Yep I've done this on my DW, creature and am about to install to Tz; that should work fine

#702 3 months ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Yep I've done this on my DW, creature and am about to install to Tz; that should work fine

Thanks, I just don't want to start blowing fuses. LOL

A problem I just ran into is that the supplied power wire, the round plug one plugs into the relay board no problem but the long extension one only plugs into the power supply wire and not into the relay board. Do I have the right size round female plug for the board. The long white cable plugs into the relay board and the splitter plugs into the 2 white boxed controllers for the rgb lights but the 2 wires that come out the other end, one is a bare wire and the other has a crimped on ground ring. What plugs into the game? This all just doesn't make any sense. Dan are you there?

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#703 3 months ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Thanks, I just don't want to start blowing fuses. LOL
A problem I just ran into is that the supplied power wire, the round plug one plugs into the relay board no problem but the long extension one only plugs into the power supply wire and not into the relay board. Do I have the right size round female plug for the board. The long white cable plugs into the relay board and the splitter plugs into the 2 white boxed controllers for the rgb lights but the 2 wires that come out the other end, one is a bare wire and the other has a crimped on ground ring. What plugs into the game? This all just doesn't make any sense. Dan are you there?

I had this same problem; the barrel connector has to be inserted very precisely - don’t force it but twist it around and try to get it aligned perfectly.

The bare wire plugs into the game’s PDB at J116, 117, or 118, in the leftmost slot, as you are staring at the game

Paul, PM me your email address and I will send you the complete instructions

#704 3 months ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

I had this same problem; the barrel connector has to be inserted very precisely - don’t force it but twist it around and try to get it aligned perfectly.

I've tried and tried but it still won't insert. The connector on the power supply will plug in no problem but the one from the extension cord will not.

Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

The bare wire plugs into the game’s PDB at J116, 117, or 118, in the leftmost slot, as you are staring at the game

I found the other instructions, it was late and I was tired. Thanks anyways.

#705 3 months ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

I've tried and tried but it still won't insert. The connector on the power supply will plug in no problem but the one from the extension cord will not.

I found the other instructions, it was late and I was tired. Thanks anyways.

oh ok good! Sorry about the connector. I am not sure what to say about that; hit Dan or Chuck up on facebook

#706 3 months ago

I just tried a 2 amp round connector in the relay board and it fits perfectly. So looks like I'll have to cut the connector off the 2 amp wall wart and cut off and splice in the the that connector onto the power extension wire. Pain in the butt, but at least I have the parts to do this. What a pain.

#707 3 months ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

I just tried a 2 amp round connector in the relay board and it fits perfectly. So looks like I'll have to cut the connector off the 2 amp wall wart and cut off and splice in the the that connector onto the power extension wire. Pain in the butt, but at least I have the parts to do this. What a pain.

I’m installing a bunch of the hinge mods this evening, and I had an issue where I had 2 female connections (1 on relay, 1 on hinge mod) and they needed to be connected together - usually they supply a male-male adapter, but I can’t seem to find it. You don’t need the adapter if you don’t use the relay and have a power outlet that turns off with your game. Anyway, I use the relay, so I just cut off the connector on the hinge mod and added a male connector - I have a bag of those connectors you just screw down onto the wires. Fit perfectly and works great!

#708 3 months ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Hey Dan will a 2 amp power supply power the panel light and the speaker lights? I've already got a 2 amp and 1 amp power supply plugged into the service outlet, the game was a reimport. There is a sticker next to the fuse, it says 5 amp 230v and there's an 8 amp fuse in it and the sticker by the outlet says 1 amp 230v - 2 amp 120v.

Yes 2 amps @ 120V should give you more then (much more) 6 amps at 12v. Post wall wart will tell the 120v amp power consumption. So yo will be fine.

#709 3 months ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Thanks, I just don't want to start blowing fuses. LOL
A problem I just ran into is that the supplied power wire, the round plug one plugs into the relay board no problem but the long extension one only plugs into the power supply wire and not into the relay board. Do I have the right size round female plug for the board. The long white cable plugs into the relay board and the splitter plugs into the 2 white boxed controllers for the rgb lights but the 2 wires that come out the other end, one is a bare wire and the other has a crimped on ground ring. What plugs into the game? This all just doesn't make any sense. Dan are you there?

We had a bunch of those sorced from the same company, but some were made a fraction of an inch off. We have a connector that will take care of that, I will send it to you. Sorry for the issue, I will send you the needed part. What are you 2 favorite games, If I have something for those I will send you a gift.

#710 3 months ago
Quoted from Litedpinballmods:

We had a bunch of those sorced from the same company, but some were made a fraction of an inch off. We have a connector that will take care of that, I will send it to you. Sorry for the issue, I will send you the needed part. What are you 2 favorite games, If I have something for those I will send you a gift.

PM me your favorite 2 games and your address, I will take care of paul.

Dan

#711 3 months ago
Quoted from Litedpinballmods:

We had a bunch of those sorced from the same company, but some were made a fraction of an inch off. We have a connector that will take care of that, I will send it to you. Sorry for the issue, I will send you the needed part. What are you 2 favorite games, If I have something for those I will send you a gift.

Hi Dan, your the BEST but I'm not looking for free stuff so no need for that but thanks anyways. Just make sure that the extension cable you send plugs into the relay board. You broke the Leg Lights I sent you right, what color was that again? So pm me your address and I'll send you a new kit. Gotta make your game look it's BEST for the next show.

#712 3 months ago

I just picked up a Corvette and want to deck it out. The speaker panel I currently have is scratched and these new ones look great. For clarification, is the ultimate plug and play? The Red looks awesome in pics. Any feedback is appreciated.
Thanks.

#713 3 months ago
Quoted from CyberNinja24:

For clarification, is the ultimate plug and play?

If you follow the direction it is. But it does take some time to strip your old panel and put that stuff on the new one. If you have a color dmd it's kind of a pain to swap it into the lit panel, there are no markings where to place it in the up down position, sideways is no problem.

#714 3 months ago

I appreciate the clarification.
For $300 for an ultimate, I thought I’d be getting everything pictured and it would be plug and play.
Not all that interested in stripping my old one.
Thanks for the follow up.

#715 3 months ago
Quoted from CyberNinja24:

I appreciate the clarification.
For $300 for an ultimate, I thought I’d be getting everything pictured and it would be plug and play.
Not all that interested in stripping my old one.
Thanks for the follow up.

The price has dropped, my Jackbot was $250 shipped with no speaker panel plastic. If you go to their web site they have a $40 - $60 off coupon. Sounds like you'd need a new plastic so that's gonna cost you extra. I found a new plastic (they didn't have one) and with shipping that came to $100 so for $350 total I have a whole new set-up.

#716 3 months ago

Whats the coupon code? Didnt see any coupons on their site...

#717 3 months ago
Quoted from Dantesmark:

Whats the coupon code? Didnt see any coupons on their site...

Hmmmm I saw it...maybe you have to sign up for their news letter.

#718 3 months ago
Quoted from Dantesmark:

Whats the coupon code? Didnt see any coupons on their site...

Looks like it changed to a straight 20% off all panels. Go to their web site, click on Contact, that page will come up along with the sign up. Don't do anything and just wait about 30 seconds or so and the 20% off window will slide in from the right then do as directed to get the code. Hope it works for you.

#719 3 months ago
Quoted from CyberNinja24:

I just picked up a Corvette and want to deck it out. The speaker panel I currently have is scratched and these new ones look great. For clarification, is the ultimate plug and play? The Red looks awesome in pics. Any feedback is appreciated.
Thanks.

Hooking up the electronics takes the least amount of time. Taking the black masking off the back or your panel can take a bit of time, but follow the instructions, and it goes quicker. Because you can change the color of the panel, you can really make the red pop with Corvette. Also the panel that works on Corvette fits 18 other games.

#720 3 months ago
Quoted from Dantesmark:

Whats the coupon code? Didnt see any coupons on their site...

I have a full time programmer, he is experimenting with different stuff on the site. The prices are higher on the website right now, and with the coupon it brings it to the site that it is on Pinside.

#721 3 months ago
Quoted from CyberNinja24:

I appreciate the clarification.
For $300 for an ultimate, I thought I’d be getting everything pictured and it would be plug and play.
Not all that interested in stripping my old one.
Thanks for the follow up.

It is listed here for $229.99. you use your existing speakers, DMD and speaker plastic. Everything to hook it up is included. We just finished the Lighted Magnetic Hinge Covers for Corvette also.

Here is a picture of a hinge on Iron Maiden, this picture does a good job of demonstrating them lit up if you check out the below link:

https://lightedpinballmods.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/iron-maiden-hinge-cover-text-gif.gif

And an example of Corvette

0625181410a_resized (resized).jpgiron-maiden-hinge-cover-text-gif (resized).png

#722 3 months ago
Quoted from Litedpinballmods:

It is listed here for $229.99. you use your existing speakers, DMD and speaker plastic. Everything to hook it up is included. We just finished the Lighted Magnetic Hinge Covers for Corvette also.
Here is a picture of a hinge on Iron Maiden, this picture does a good job of demonstrating them lit up.
And an example of Corvette

WOW, $229 is a great deal!

#723 3 months ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

WOW, $229 is a great deal!

Yes it is. I'm interested to see if they come up with something for T3, Mustang or Avatar. All 3 would need panel plastics designed and made so I'm not holding my breath.

#724 3 months ago

What is the intention here?

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#725 3 months ago
Quoted from Davi:

What is the intention here?

What is the question here?

#726 3 months ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

What is the question here?

I don't understand the question either.

#727 3 months ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

What is the question here?

I am sure you know it. Is it possible to adjust backlit according to IJ color scheme?

#728 3 months ago
Quoted from Davi:

I am sure you know it. Is it possible to adjust backlit according to IJ color scheme?

Wow Davi, with all due respect, I would never have guessed that's what you were asking. Yes, you can adjust the color to any combination of Red, Blue, Green you want. There are presets on remote, and you can program a very precise color by hitting one of the "DIY" buttons

I will say that you have to experiment a bit - sometimes the color that makes the speaker panel pop the best is NOT what you would think. Usually white is best to start, add a tiny bit of red and green to get a warmer color and go from there. Also, maximum brightness is not usually the best either, you want the panel to be lit but not distracting.

#729 3 months ago

Looks like tna had some fun with your IJ!
Lol

#730 3 months ago

How much is the single color that is listed at $199?

#731 3 months ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Wow Davi, with all due respect, I would never have guessed that's what you were asking. Yes, you can adjust the color to any combination of Red, Blue, Green you want. There are presets on remote, and you can program a very precise color by hitting one of the "DIY" buttons
I will say that you have to experiment a bit - sometimes the color that makes the speaker panel pop the best is NOT what you would think. Usually white is best to start, add a tiny bit of red and green to get a warmer color and go from there. Also, maximum brightness is not usually the best either, you want the panel to be lit but not distracting.

Thanks for detailed answer. Based on the pic on website, I would not buy it. Makes sense to upload some nice photos instead of this. According to your explanation, not so difficult to reach nice results.

#732 3 months ago
Quoted from Davi:

Thanks for detailed answer. Based on the pic on website, I would not buy it. Makes sense to upload some nice photos instead of this. According to your explanation, not so difficult to reach nice results.

It really isn't - I have some pics of it installed in a Doctor Who and a Creature which look outstanding. I never installed to my Indy, but it would look great as well. I'll upload those at some point today. Both Creature and DW look incredible with the panel, really add to the game experience. You do have to be careful about making it too bright, or you get a lot of reflection on the glass though. Invisiglass can help but very $$

#733 3 months ago

The speaker panels are engineered wrong. Please call me. My tech and you guys can exchange
Ideas and fix this!!

#734 3 months ago
Quoted from pinlawyer:

The speaker panels are engineered wrong. Please call me. My tech and you guys can exchange
Ideas and fix this!!

Care to elaborate?

#735 3 months ago

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#736 3 months ago

Various color choices on CFTBL

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#737 3 months ago

That is BEAUTIFUL. BUT HERE’s FT:

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#738 3 months ago
Quoted from pinlawyer:

That is BEAUTIFUL. BUT HERE’s FT:

What happens when you change the colors via the remote?

#739 3 months ago

The colors change, but the panel is all wrong.

#740 3 months ago
Quoted from pinlawyer:

The colors change, but the panel is all wrong.

Well I’ll help you out if I can, if Dan is not around today. Can you do a video including when you change the colors?

#741 3 months ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Care to elaborate?

Hello

Reading back a page it looks like you are starting to take care of some of the issues, but holy cow did these kits have SOO many things wrong with them.

Where to start?
-Power supplies were not strong enough to power the light strings. The previous kit in his whitewater the lamps shut down when both LED strings were plugged in . The fishtales kit with 2 amp wall wart the light strings would shut down when even just 1 was plugged in. We had to pick up a 5 amp PS.

-Missing Parts. Greg has had 5 total kits delivered and not a single one had all of the parts in them. Every single one was missing pieces. 3 of them were missing the second LED lamp controller. One was missing the 4 pin gold connectors to connector the lamp strips to the controllers and another was missing the screws to attach the DMD to the panel

- Wrong pin on extension cable. I forget exactly which one, but it appeared that there was a 2.1 mm pin trying to fit onto a 2.5 mm socket. The cable did not want to connect to the plug on the board.

-Hand bent aluminum brackets. Several were not long enough and just overall a poor method of attaching this. On one game they allowed the panel and translite to rock back and forth as you played the game.

-The hardware to attach the DMD was hokey with shrinktubing used as a spacer. Why not supply the right length screws or hard spacers? These are for B/W DMD games so I think there are only 2 possible options for DMD's here. The stock orange HV DMD's and the color DMD products. The LCD panel fits flush and the original DMD sits up so it needs a spacer in between.

- The panel did not fit into the U channel on 1 game, Not because the speaker plastic was too thick, but because the epoxy was poured almost 1/8" too thick on the left side. I did not find this out until having installed everything and was trying to fit it into the panel.

----Most importantly the fit of the plastic speaker panel does NOT match the light up panel. This is why after dealing with every other issue with these kits Greg asked me to remove it from the Fishtales. In every instance there has been light up white area exposed around the DMD window and a big light up crescent around the speaker holes and you can see the edge of the speakergrill. This is Not an alignment issue during installation as you can see both the top and bottom around the DMD in the fishtales pictures and opposite sides of the speaker grills (this kit was installed with a speaker plastic you supplied). You can see these exposed areas in all of the game photos that you just posted! Have you measured the open window area of the different titles as well as the speaker hole diameter?? Your speaker screen and non lighted diameter needs to be another 1/8" to 1/4" to allow for tolerance. Same goes for the size of your DMD cutout.

Couple other issues that could be fixed.

-You have 3 cables running 6 feet through the machine when instead I would recommend connecting all of this in the head area and running 1 cable to the power outlet

-Recommend a better board for the relay for turning this on and off. The little 5 pin connectors on this board did not stay seated well and were intermittent during game play.

Great idea for a product but you guys never left the Beta testing stage of this before entering production.

I install a TON of mods for games so I get to see all levels of development and fit. I hope you take this as constructive criticism to improve the products as it's a great idea that can look really nice if you guys fix the tolerance of the panels.

#742 3 months ago

My tech knows this stuff

#743 3 months ago

kbliznick, let me address:

Power supplies. A 2 amp power supply is sufficient to power everything without a problem. One order of 2 amp power supplies that we received were not outputting 2 amps, we did not know this till after they were shipped. Anyone that contacted us we have given upgraded power supplies. We now ship with larger power supplies.

Missing Parts - I believe this has been address also.

Wrong pin on extension cable - this was also an issue with a supplier, which has also been addressed.

Hand bent aluminum brackets - Yes, this was also explained above. Yes the brackets are hand bent, yes we are in the process of upgrading the brackets, as explained above, this up grade will take months do to it effecting other parts. This entire mod is hand made.

The hardware to attach the DMD- I am not even sure what this comment is about. The original panels in the game have elevator bolts. Your game comes with a hard black spacer that goes between the original board and the DMD. We use a Tnut system for the DMD which is the same system that has been used for speakers. When you use your original DMD you use your original hard black spacers that came with your game and supplied bolts that are the proper length, just like when you screw down you speakers. If you are using a color DMD, their is a second set of bolts that are the proper length and you do not use the original black plastic spacers, just like when you normally install a color DMD. Are you using the original black plastic spacer that came with your game? Their are 2 sets of screws, one for original DMD and one for COLORDMD.

The panel did not fit into the U channel on 1 game. We had some height issues on boards that were made over a year ago. We now and have had for a year a metal template at the shop that these go into and are sanding to a consistent height. We have found that some after market boards are thicker then the originals, and we supply a U channel to accommodate these very rare occasions.

Most importantly the fit of the plastic speaker panel does NOT match the light up panel. - This is a damned if you do, and a damned if you don't situation if I am understanding you correctly. We had over 70 different speaker plastics here plus nearly 20 Bally/Williams games here. We have 3 different original The Addams Family plastic panels here and they are all different, the positions of the speakers and DMD's can be up to 1/8" different between different manufacturers of speaker panels. If you take a stack of 10 speaker plastics and stacked them up you would see many different speaker cut outs and many different paint edges for the DMD. If we cut back the size of each speaker and the DMD an 1/8 to a 1/4 of an inch then you get shadows on different parts of the board hence. If we go all the way to the edge, their can be some light bleed, which I would point out some people like. If you get some light bleed, that can be quickly and easily removed with a paint pen. We feel it is better to make the lighted area as big as it can be for some boards, because the lighted area can be easily covered up, but it is impossible to add lighted area.

Couple other issues that could be fixed. - number of cables and lengths. Part of this has to do with that you have 2 remote sensors. one for the speakers and one for the panel. We suggest one remote sensor can be left in the back box area and one remote sensor can be left at the coin door. This way you can control one of the remote sensors at a time.

Recommend a better board for the relay - we have an upgraded replay that we are in the 3rd generation. It works great for some other products we have but it does not work properly for this product. We will have another generation of the new relay in a couple of months, and when it passes all of our tests, we will included that in the product.

Everything you brought up have been addressed or is being addressed. It sounds like these may be some older boards?? PM me on what you need and I will take care of it.

#744 3 months ago

Oh—he posted before me. Lol

#745 3 months ago

So my FT kit can be fixed?

#746 3 months ago
Quoted from pinlawyer:

So my FT kit can be fixed?

Yes

But, always a but. Some people prefer that look your tech is concerned with, but you can use a black paint marker to remove it.

We measured many, many, many speaker panels when we decided on the size to make the lighted panel. Because plastic speaker panels have been made by many different companies over 30 years, the sizes of the speaker panels are not consistent. Because of this their may a small amount of light the escapes between the edge. Our lighted speaker panel is a little smaller then the original panel from side to side to allow it to be lined up as best as possible. Also spacers (a piece of paper as an example) can be put under the board in the U channel to raise to board to better a line it with your speaker panel.

Some people like this little amount of light that can be between the lighted speaker panel and the plastic. They feel it highlights the area around the DMD, it is a matter of taste. This light can easily be removed using a black paint marker. The Fish Tales panel fits in 18 different games and their will be some adjusting to make it to your best liking.

On our Fish Tales listing, it does show the light gap that your tech took a picture of. The picture I posted here is a picture from the sales listing. If you want to get rid of that light strip around the DMD, use a black paint pen. If we changed the size of the DMD area and cut it back, their would be a shadow through your plastic. You can take light away with a paint pen, but you can not add light to remove a shadow. Two of the main goals we had on this panel was NO SHADOWS and CONSISTENT LIGHT DISPERSION, and this panel has both of those.

your tech had some valid points, which we either have addressed are in the process of addressing, that is why products have different versions, but I also think he did not read the manual, because the comments about the DMD mounting I could not understand at all. I have emailed your tech and will send him anything he thinks he may need

If you look at his picture and my listing picture, they are nearly the exact same picture.

Dan

0625172340_resized (resized).jpg
#747 3 months ago

If you look at the Judge Dredd to the left, same EXACT panel that is in your Tish Tales. No light around the DMD. It is impossible to line up perfect with every speaker plastic. If the cut out for the DMD was made bigger, then you would see a shadow edge in Judge Dredd. Touch that light area with a black paint pen and it will look perfect.

#748 3 months ago

Glad to see that you are working through most of these issues.
Sorry to hear that you aren't going to fix your tolerance issues. This precludes us from ever recommending this kit to anyone.

The funny thing here is the fishtales panel was shipped WITH the screen art panel. Seems like you could have attempted to pair it with one where the tolerances weren't so bad that the edge of the speaker screen was completely visible on the right speaker.

#749 3 months ago
Quoted from Litedpinballmods:

If you look at the Judge Dredd to the left, same EXACT panel that is in your Tish Tales. No light around the DMD. It is impossible to line up perfect with every speaker plastic. If the cut out for the DMD was made bigger, then you would see a shadow edge in Judge Dredd. Touch that light area with a black paint pen and it will look perfect.

So you don't want to have a shaded area behind the panel, but if the panel is so far off that you need to use the black paint pen to fix the exposed lighted area it also means that the speaker has shifted so far behind the lighted panel to cause a shaded area behind the panel on the other side. (right speaker on Greg's fishtales) Doesn't make much sense to me.

#750 3 months ago

It was your own speaker panel art that we used.

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