Yep I've done this on my DW, creature and am about to install to Tz; that should work fine

Thanks, I just don't want to start blowing fuses. LOL

A problem I just ran into is that the supplied power wire, the round plug one plugs into the relay board no problem but the long extension one only plugs into the power supply wire and not into the relay board. Do I have the right size round female plug for the board. The long white cable plugs into the relay board and the splitter plugs into the 2 white boxed controllers for the rgb lights but the 2 wires that come out the other end, one is a bare wire and the other has a crimped on ground ring. What plugs into the game? This all just doesn't make any sense. Dan are you there?

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I had this same problem; the barrel connector has to be inserted very precisely - don’t force it but twist it around and try to get it aligned perfectly.

The bare wire plugs into the game’s PDB at J116, 117, or 118, in the leftmost slot, as you are staring at the game

Paul, PM me your email address and I will send you the complete instructions

I've tried and tried but it still won't insert. The connector on the power supply will plug in no problem but the one from the extension cord will not.

I found the other instructions, it was late and I was tired. Thanks anyways.

oh ok good! Sorry about the connector. I am not sure what to say about that; hit Dan or Chuck up on facebook

I just tried a 2 amp round connector in the relay board and it fits perfectly. So looks like I'll have to cut the connector off the 2 amp wall wart and cut off and splice in the the that connector onto the power extension wire. Pain in the butt, but at least I have the parts to do this. What a pain.

I’m installing a bunch of the hinge mods this evening, and I had an issue where I had 2 female connections (1 on relay, 1 on hinge mod) and they needed to be connected together - usually they supply a male-male adapter, but I can’t seem to find it. You don’t need the adapter if you don’t use the relay and have a power outlet that turns off with your game. Anyway, I use the relay, so I just cut off the connector on the hinge mod and added a male connector - I have a bag of those connectors you just screw down onto the wires. Fit perfectly and works great!

Hi Dan, your the BEST but I'm not looking for free stuff so no need for that but thanks anyways. Just make sure that the extension cable you send plugs into the relay board. You broke the Leg Lights I sent you right, what color was that again? So pm me your address and I'll send you a new kit. Gotta make your game look it's BEST for the next show.

I just picked up a Corvette and want to deck it out. The speaker panel I currently have is scratched and these new ones look great. For clarification, is the ultimate plug and play? The Red looks awesome in pics. Any feedback is appreciated.
Thanks.

If you follow the direction it is. But it does take some time to strip your old panel and put that stuff on the new one. If you have a color dmd it's kind of a pain to swap it into the lit panel, there are no markings where to place it in the up down position, sideways is no problem.

I appreciate the clarification.
For $300 for an ultimate, I thought I’d be getting everything pictured and it would be plug and play.
Not all that interested in stripping my old one.
Thanks for the follow up.

The price has dropped, my Jackbot was $250 shipped with no speaker panel plastic. If you go to their web site they have a $40 - $60 off coupon. Sounds like you'd need a new plastic so that's gonna cost you extra. I found a new plastic (they didn't have one) and with shipping that came to $100 so for $350 total I have a whole new set-up.

Whats the coupon code? Didnt see any coupons on their site...

Hmmmm I saw it...maybe you have to sign up for their news letter.

Looks like it changed to a straight 20% off all panels. Go to their web site, click on Contact, that page will come up along with the sign up. Don't do anything and just wait about 30 seconds or so and the 20% off window will slide in from the right then do as directed to get the code. Hope it works for you.

WOW, $229 is a great deal!

Yes it is. I'm interested to see if they come up with something for T3, Mustang or Avatar. All 3 would need panel plastics designed and made so I'm not holding my breath.

What is the intention here?

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What is the question here?

I don't understand the question either.

I am sure you know it. Is it possible to adjust backlit according to IJ color scheme?

Wow Davi, with all due respect, I would never have guessed that's what you were asking. Yes, you can adjust the color to any combination of Red, Blue, Green you want. There are presets on remote, and you can program a very precise color by hitting one of the "DIY" buttons

I will say that you have to experiment a bit - sometimes the color that makes the speaker panel pop the best is NOT what you would think. Usually white is best to start, add a tiny bit of red and green to get a warmer color and go from there. Also, maximum brightness is not usually the best either, you want the panel to be lit but not distracting.

Looks like tna had some fun with your IJ!
Lol

How much is the single color that is listed at $199?

Thanks for detailed answer. Based on the pic on website, I would not buy it. Makes sense to upload some nice photos instead of this. According to your explanation, not so difficult to reach nice results.

It really isn't - I have some pics of it installed in a Doctor Who and a Creature which look outstanding. I never installed to my Indy, but it would look great as well. I'll upload those at some point today. Both Creature and DW look incredible with the panel, really add to the game experience. You do have to be careful about making it too bright, or you get a lot of reflection on the glass though. Invisiglass can help but very $$

The speaker panels are engineered wrong. Please call me. My tech and you guys can exchange
Ideas and fix this!!

Care to elaborate?

Various color choices on CFTBL

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That is BEAUTIFUL. BUT HERE’s FT:

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What happens when you change the colors via the remote?

The colors change, but the panel is all wrong.

Well I’ll help you out if I can, if Dan is not around today. Can you do a video including when you change the colors?

Hello

Reading back a page it looks like you are starting to take care of some of the issues, but holy cow did these kits have SOO many things wrong with them.

Where to start?
-Power supplies were not strong enough to power the light strings. The previous kit in his whitewater the lamps shut down when both LED strings were plugged in . The fishtales kit with 2 amp wall wart the light strings would shut down when even just 1 was plugged in. We had to pick up a 5 amp PS.

-Missing Parts. Greg has had 5 total kits delivered and not a single one had all of the parts in them. Every single one was missing pieces. 3 of them were missing the second LED lamp controller. One was missing the 4 pin gold connectors to connector the lamp strips to the controllers and another was missing the screws to attach the DMD to the panel

- Wrong pin on extension cable. I forget exactly which one, but it appeared that there was a 2.1 mm pin trying to fit onto a 2.5 mm socket. The cable did not want to connect to the plug on the board.

-Hand bent aluminum brackets. Several were not long enough and just overall a poor method of attaching this. On one game they allowed the panel and translite to rock back and forth as you played the game.

-The hardware to attach the DMD was hokey with shrinktubing used as a spacer. Why not supply the right length screws or hard spacers? These are for B/W DMD games so I think there are only 2 possible options for DMD's here. The stock orange HV DMD's and the color DMD products. The LCD panel fits flush and the original DMD sits up so it needs a spacer in between.

- The panel did not fit into the U channel on 1 game, Not because the speaker plastic was too thick, but because the epoxy was poured almost 1/8" too thick on the left side. I did not find this out until having installed everything and was trying to fit it into the panel.

----Most importantly the fit of the plastic speaker panel does NOT match the light up panel. This is why after dealing with every other issue with these kits Greg asked me to remove it from the Fishtales. In every instance there has been light up white area exposed around the DMD window and a big light up crescent around the speaker holes and you can see the edge of the speakergrill. This is Not an alignment issue during installation as you can see both the top and bottom around the DMD in the fishtales pictures and opposite sides of the speaker grills (this kit was installed with a speaker plastic you supplied). You can see these exposed areas in all of the game photos that you just posted! Have you measured the open window area of the different titles as well as the speaker hole diameter?? Your speaker screen and non lighted diameter needs to be another 1/8" to 1/4" to allow for tolerance. Same goes for the size of your DMD cutout.

Couple other issues that could be fixed.

-You have 3 cables running 6 feet through the machine when instead I would recommend connecting all of this in the head area and running 1 cable to the power outlet

-Recommend a better board for the relay for turning this on and off. The little 5 pin connectors on this board did not stay seated well and were intermittent during game play.

Great idea for a product but you guys never left the Beta testing stage of this before entering production.

I install a TON of mods for games so I get to see all levels of development and fit. I hope you take this as constructive criticism to improve the products as it's a great idea that can look really nice if you guys fix the tolerance of the panels.

My tech knows this stuff

Oh—he posted before me. Lol

So my FT kit can be fixed?

Glad to see that you are working through most of these issues.
Sorry to hear that you aren't going to fix your tolerance issues. This precludes us from ever recommending this kit to anyone.

The funny thing here is the fishtales panel was shipped WITH the screen art panel. Seems like you could have attempted to pair it with one where the tolerances weren't so bad that the edge of the speaker screen was completely visible on the right speaker.

So you don't want to have a shaded area behind the panel, but if the panel is so far off that you need to use the black paint pen to fix the exposed lighted area it also means that the speaker has shifted so far behind the lighted panel to cause a shaded area behind the panel on the other side. (right speaker on Greg's fishtales) Doesn't make much sense to me.

It was your own speaker panel art that we used.