Quoted from Litedpinballmods:Getting closer.
I can feel it, what a room of beauty.
I see a nice Fish tales there mid pack. 
(Topic ID: 167561)
Linked Games
Addams Family, The
Bally, 1992-
Bad Cats
Williams, 1989
-
Corvette
Bally, 1994
-
Creature from the Black Lagoon
Bally, 1992
-
Cyclone
Williams, 1988
-
Demolition Man
Williams, 1994
-
Dirty Harry
Williams, 1995
-
Fish Tales
Williams, 1992
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Saint Paul, MN
Man that looks great
Quoted from Litedpinballmods:Getting closer.
Your like me, putting our mods on all our games. 
Just got Dr. Who done. A couple pictures of Dr. Who.
Also a picture of the board you get. Original Dr. Who board on top. Lighted panel on bottom. This panel has the cutouts, most panels will be solid at the cut out area.
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Quoted from jawjaw:They all look great but Getaway looks amazing balls.
Twilight zone too, IMO
Vaughan, ON
Quoted from Cobra:I have not read all of this thread, so has anyone mentioned the crazy amount of glare this will cause on the glass and how to deal with it without buying PDI glass?
I dont think there is tons of glare. The speaker panel difuses it pretty good. Glare is part of pinball, room lighting, other pins, depends on several factors. But glare, part of life and pinball. Never spiils a game.
Bump for Fish Tales and Addams, Indy.
Thanks for all the hard work and the mods i see coming out are also amazing.
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:I dont think there is tons of glare. The speaker panel difuses it pretty good. Glare is part of pinball, room lighting, other pins, depends on several factors. But glare, part of life and pinball. Never spiils a game.
Bump for Fish Tales and Addams, Indy.
Thanks for all the hard work and the mods i see coming out are also amazing.
There is definitely glare - a piece of the PBL No-Glare window, or the Bent Plastic things definitely help. I have one installed in my CFTBL - you can still see everything brilliantly. It's not so much a distraction as the DMD is, as the light emitted doesn't change (vs the DMD which is constantly moving and obscuring your vision) - but it does lighten up that area of the playfield a bit. For Creature, that's a good thing.
There's a remote control that comes with it that allows you to dial in the intensity, too, and at the mid and lower settings, you barely see anything as far as glare, but looking head on (and especially from afar) it is still a striking difference from a game without them. Twilight Zone looks *incredible* in person. Getaway looks amazing, too. Games which have a darker panel to begin with seem to benefit the most because the elements 'pop' a bit better
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:The remote control that comes with it allows you to dial in the intensity and at the mid and lower settings you barely see any glare, but looking head on there is still a striking difference from the game without them. Twilight Zone looks incredible in person. Games with a darker panel seem to benefit the most because the elements 'pop' a bit better.
I received one for my TZ (would have installed it this last weekend but I have not been feeling well) and intend to dial the intensity up just enough to bring out the elements but not brighten up the black background too much.
Quoted from littlecammi:I received one for my TZ (would have installed it this last weekend but I have not been feeling well) and intend to dial the intensity up just enough to bring out the elements but not brighten up the black background too much.
Most people try to match up the brightness on the panel with the brightness on the translite. Translite brightness varies a lot depending on original bulbs, single SMD LED's, dual SMD LED's and others. Also the color of the bulb depends on what color your translite is. Original bulbs often have a slight yellow to them also warm white translite bulbs have a slight yellow to them. Cool white bulbs have more of a white or slight blue to them. Natural bulbs falling between warn white and cool white.
All boards we make have a cool white. All boards have a brightness control. On the ultimate board you have complete color control, if you want a slight yellow to match original lights or warm LED's you can do that.
The best way to get a pure white is to click on RED and raise brightness to full, click on GREEN and raise brightness to full, then Click on BLUE and raise brightness to full, when click on WHITE. Depending on your eyes, this will give you a true white, or a slight blue white, if it is a slight blue, then click on BLUE, and lower brightness one click then go to WHITE.
I recommend clicking on all of the preset colors and leave it to your favorite. Also you can set the DIY colors to your favorite. We are updating the manual to give a better understanding to all of the color controls on the remote.
We are making a full set of pictures for every color setting on the remote for 21 different games. We have finished this on 17 games and should have them uploaded to a facebook page in a few days.
Most game look incredible with a lighted speaker panel.
I am making a list of everyone that has emailed me or posted on this thread to give them the location of the pictures and a way to order. After I have taken care of those people, I will then put that link on this thread. Once I get those orders filled, I will then start a thread on this site and post for sale on this site. I am trying to take care of the people that have supported me along this long journey first.
We have a professional writer upgrade our manual, and he is an early adopter of our panel and has been in pinball for a long time. His first draft of the manual is much better then our rough draft and will be updated on our website when it is complete.
The color remote has more feature then most people realize, and the manual will give some input on this, and we hope to do a video on the remote and installation in the next few weeks.
Dan
Quoted from Litedpinballmods:Most people try to match up the brightness on the panel with the brightness on the translite. Translite brightness varies a lot depending on original bulbs, single SMD LED's, dual SMD LED's and others. Also the color of the bulb depends on what color your translite is. Original bulbs often have a slight yellow to them also warm white translite bulbs have a slight yellow to them. Cool white bulbs have more of a white or slight blue to them. Natural bulbs falling between warn white and cool white.
All boards we make have a cool white. All boards have a brightness control. On the ultimate board you have complete color control, if you want a slight yellow to match original lights or warm LED's you can do that.
The best way to get a pure white is to click on RED and raise brightness to full, click on GREEN and raise brightness to full, then Click on BLUE and raise brightness to full, when click on WHITE. Depending on your eyes, this will give you a true white, or a slight blue white, if it is a slight blue, then click on BLUE, and lower brightness one click then go to WHITE.
I recommend clicking on all of the preset colors and leave it to your favorite. Also you can set the DIY colors to your favorite. We are updating the manual to give a better understanding to all of the color controls on the remote.
We are making a full set of pictures for every color setting on the remote for 21 different games. We have finished this on 17 games and should have them uploaded to a facebook page in a few days.
Most game look incredible with a lighted speaker panel.
I am making a list of everyone that has emailed me or posted on this thread to give them the location of the pictures and a way to order. After I have taken care of those people, I will then put that link on this thread. Once I get those orders filled, I will then start a thread on this site and post for sale on this site. I am trying to take care of the people that have supported me along this long journey first.
We have a professional writer upgrade our manual, and he is an early adopter of our panel and has been in pinball for a long time. His first draft of the manual is much better then our rough draft and will be updated on our website when it is complete.
The color remote has more feature then most people realize, and the manual will give some input on this, and we hope to do a video on the remote and installation in the next few weeks.
Dan
I vote this mod "Mod of the Year 2017!". 
Quoted from MustangPaul:I vote this mod "Mod of the Year 2017!".
Thanks Paul, I appreciate that.
Just put the Ultimate panel in The Getaway a few minutes ago, i always had a old prototype in it. The colors look so good on that game. If you want a bit of nighttime driving, set it to a light blue, just want them to light up, set to white, a little daytime driving, add a bit of yellow or orange.
Every time I put an ultimate panel in, a few colors completely change the look and feel of the game.
Dan
I'm currently installing my lighted panel on my TZ but I have a question. Pardon my ignorance but can you tell me why the controlling relay needs to be connected to the power driver board (universal backbox connection)? I would think (probably incorrectly) that all of the power for the panel is coming from the pcb board (supplied with the kit) that is plugged into the service outlet. Thanks in advance for taking the time to reply.
Quoted from gac:I'm currently installing my lighted panel on my TZ but I have a question. Pardon my ignorance but can you tell me why the controlling relay needs to be connected to the power driver board (universal backbox connection)? I would think (probably incorrectly) that all of the power for the panel is coming from the pcb board (supplied with the kit) that is plugged into the service outlet. Thanks in advance for taking the time to reply.
You are exactly correct; you do power directly from the service outlet. However, unless they've been modified, the service outlets are wired to have constant power. That means when you turn the game off, the panel would still be lit. The relay addresses this by only switching on power to the lighted panel when the game itself is on.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:You are exactly correct; you do power directly from the service outlet. However, unless they've been modified, the service outlets are wired to have constant power. That means when you turn the game off, the panel would still be lit. The relay addresses this by only switching on power to the lighted panel when the game itself is on.
Thanks for the reply. I'm still confused though... So having the relay connected to the driver board keeps the panel from being lit even though it is plugged into the service outlet?
Quoted from gac:Thanks for the reply. I'm still confused though... So having the relay connected to the driver board keeps the panel from being lit even though it is plugged into the service outlet?
The relay is an on/off switch which is controlled by the driver board power. when you turn the game on, the driver board is powered up, sending voltage to that first pole on J116 - this tells the relay board "hey it's time to turn on!" and it fires up the panel. The relay disconnects power from the panel until you turn the game on.
The service outlet is on all the time -regardless of whether or not the game is on. If the game is plugged in, the service outlet is ON, so the panel would be on. The relay disconnects it until it detects power at the driver board - which means you've turned the game on, and it turns the panel on.
Thanks for the clear and detailed explanation Rdoyle. I appreciate the help. I just didn't realize the driver board could override the service outlet.
Quoted from gac:Thanks for the clear and detailed explanation Rdoyle. I appreciate the help. I just didn't realize the driver board could override the service outlet.
Just to make sure it's clear - you always need to plug it into the service outlet. The relay is just acting as a trigger to turn on the panel
I was figuring the same thing.. Website still under construction... Where does one order...? Need to see Shadow and Corvette.
Rdoyle1978, thanks for you assistance for answering, he is doing our new manual and has an excellent understand of these panels.
Depending on the lighted speaker panel settings, it can nearly take 2 amps at 12 volts. Instead of putting a power strain on your game, we have a relay (switch) that knows when you game is on or off. This relay (switch) will allow power to flow from your service outlet to the lighted speaker panel. The lighted speaker panel comes with everything needed to hook up and install.
We have a small quantity of panels in stock and are ready to sell, you can text me here to purchase. Both Corvette and Shadow in stock (Shadow and Corvette use the same panel, and that panel works on 19 games) We are in the process of getting pictures of 22 panels in a location at facebook so they can all be seen. We will have a website in the future and plan on listing them here also.
Here are a couple of pictures of corvette.
Basic panel is just white, no speaker lights. $199.99
Deluxe panel does everything basic panel does with multi colored speakers. $259.99
Ultimate panel does everything deluxe panel does, but the main panel lights are multi colored. $299.99
Even on Corvette, which is a very simple panel, the ultimate board with it color changes and really enhance the panel. The lower left of the picture has the color I had the remote set to.
I should have shadow pictures tonight, and our lighted speaker panel will work fine with Aurick' alternate speaker panel.
Here is a picture of a deluxe panel on Shadow. Behind the translite for the shadow are dual SMD cool white bulbs, and the lighted speaker panel matches perfect to the translite. If you use warm white lights behind the translight an ultimate panel with a little yellow added would be a perfect match.
Some lighted speaker panels have their own specific design, such as The Addams Family, Dr Who, Dracula and Terminator 2, but many other games use the same lighted speaker panel. We call that lighted speaker panel a universal and the universal panel fits all of the below games:
Corvette
Creature from the Black Lagoon
Demolition Man
Dirty Harry
Fish Tales
Huricane
Indianapolis 500
Jack-Bot
Judge Dredd
No Fear: Dangerous Sports
Popeye Saves the Earth
Red & Ted's Road Show
The Flintones
The Getaway
The Shadow
Theatre of Magic
Twilight Zone
White Water
World Cup Soccer
Dan
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Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Just to make sure it's clear - you always need to plug it into the service outlet. The relay is just acting as a trigger to turn on the panel
Yes. If you want to plug a few things into your service outlet, you can use a power strip from your service outlet. I have that on many of my games.
The lighted speaker panels comes with the plug, relay, everything to install.
Dan
Quoted from Flippermatt:I also have Getaway, Flintstones and T2 on your list. Could be expensive.
That's why the title of this thread is: WARNING!! This thread may cost you money.
Quoted from Litedpinballmods:Some lighted speaker panels have their own specific design, such as The Addams Family, Dr Who, Dracula and Terminator 2, but many other games use the same lighted speaker panel. We call that lighted speaker panel a universal and the universal panel fits all of the below games:
So we are going to be using our original speaker panel for the artwork then ? How does that work ? I thought the new ones came with the new speaker panel that has the artwork on it. If not, is my original (Getaway) not fully blocked out on the back ? How do i deal with that ? Sorry, just confused.
Quoted from SUPERBEE:So we are going to be using our original speaker panel for the artwork then ? How does that work ? I thought the new ones came with the new speaker panel that has the artwork on it. If not, is my original (Getaway) not fully blocked out on the back ? How do i deal with that ? Sorry, just confused.
A new panel comes with the mod. So if your panel has seen better days you get a new one. My Getaway came with a new one.
Quoted from MustangPaul:A new panel comes with the mod. So if your panel has seen better days you get a new one. My Getaway came with a new one.
The new panel is an optional $99, from the prices listed above. (Hey that stuff is expensive to print!). Dan would have to list the ones available. You do not need to purchase one.
Upside is the new panel looks great, unblemished, and you can use your old panel to revert your game back to stock at any time. AFAIK, all B/W WPC panels have the black mask on the back. In addition, buying the new panel saves you the trouble of removing that black masking material on the back of the panel. There is a well-tested process and tools for this supplied in the kit. This process is not very fun, to say the least.
I have chosen to keep my original panels though and they look awesome.
I am getting close to finishing v1.2 of the manual so we will make that available soon.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:The new panel is an optional $99, from the prices listed above. (Hey that stuff is expensive to print!). Dan would have to list the ones available. You do not need to purchase one.
Upside is the new panel looks great, unblemished, and you can use your old panel to revert your game back to stock at any time. AFAIK, all B/W WPC panels have the black mask on the back. In addition, buying the new panel saves you the trouble of removing that black masking material on the back of the panel. There is a well-tested process and tools for this supplied in the kit. This process is not very fun, to say the least.
I have chosen to keep my original panels though and they look awesome.
I am getting close to finishing v1.2 of the manual so we will make that available soon.
Oups sorry about that chief. 
Quoted from gac:Hi Dan - Trying to install in my TZ and the new panel does not fit into the "U" channel at the bottom of the back box. The new panel along with the plastic cover is just slightly too wide to drop into the channel. Any thoughts?
You should have some play in the "U"channel. Make absolutely sure there's nothing in between the panel and the cover, and nothing in the channel. No wires (I almost always have to move a green cable from my colorDMD), no burrs, no screws, nothing.
Dan can speak to exact dimensions but I believe the tooling is pretty exact. If you don't glue/tape the cover to the new panel, sometimes the cover will hang over the edge of the U channel. You don't need to glue it but double sided tape can help (although you have to be careful where you put it so it does not cast a shadow)
There is definitely no play in the channel. I even removed it from the back box and tried to push it onto the panel and I can't get it to fit.
Quoted from gac:There is definitely no play in the channel. I even removed it from the back box and tried to push it onto the panel and I can't get it to fit.
Man, that sucks! Dan will have to field this one, he's seen many more of these these issues than I have
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:A new plastic speaker panel is a $99 option in addition to the above prices. Dan can list the ones available. You do not need to purchase one. You can use your old panel by removing the black masking material from the back of it.
Is a new (non-masked) plastic speaker panel available for Twilight Zone yet? (If so, I will order one now.)
Quoted from littlecammi:Is a new (non-masked) plastic speaker panel available for Twilight Zone yet? (If so, I will order one now.)
I know they have a bunch ready, I am pretty sure TZ was one of the first, but Dan would have to confirm.
Quoted from littlecammi:Is a new (non-masked) plastic speaker panel available for Twilight Zone yet? (If so, I will order one now.)
This was the first plastic we tried to order, but Rick said no way. Because the name Twilight Zone is in the plastic and the license has expired, we won't be able to do that one.
Quoted from gac:There is definitely no play in the channel. I even removed it from the back box and tried to push it onto the panel and I can't get it to fit.
Sorry for the issue, I will take care of and send you a PM today.
I will also post why that happened and how we have cured that later today.
Dan
Quoted from Litedpinballmods:Sorry for the issue, I will take care of and send you a PM today.
I will also post why that happened and how we have cured that later today.
Dan
Ok. Thanks Dan. I look forward to your solution.
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Quoted from gac:There is definitely no play in the channel. I even removed it from the back box and tried to push it onto the panel and I can't get it to fit.
Sorry about that, I will take care of and send you a PM. Long explanation below. If you want short version of explanation, go to last paragraph
I will tell you why it happened and what we are doing now to make sure it does not happen again. I know some of you guys like the details. I go through long explanations to demonstrate issues are resolved in a consistent system.
First problem, warpage. This can make it hard to fit in the metal H-channel:
We have been working on these panel for about 1 1/2 years. For most of that time we were using 3/4" MDF and placing rows on LED strips facing towards the player. It worked, but left hot and cold spots and had many, many solders. It took us a long time to figure out the board the we do now, which is a hybrid resin and wood board and looks great.
We used to use 3/4"MDF but now it is 3/8" resin and 3/8" wood. We did not have local supplier of 3/8" MDF, so we used the top of the line 3/8" plywood and made many boards. There were a few reasons that we used MDF instead of plywood when we started, and we learned those lessons again. One problem is plywood can splinter, but that was not a big problem, because those splinters got filled in with resin. The big problem is plywood likes to warp, and depending on which way you cut it, it can warp more than if cut in the other direction. Also, if you stack them at different angles, that can add to the wrap.
Warpage is one of the problems that Mr. Thompson had on his Creature boards a few years ago. Not to knock his product, it was a great product, warpage is just a challenge with this kind of product.
Now we use cabinet grade 3/8" MDF and that took care of most problems. Another great thing about MDF is that the resin soaks into it about .05" and that section of the board is like concrete. The fibers from the MDF with the resin, super strong.
The next surprise problem, curing of the resin. We do a lot of work with resin and my main guy has been in the resin industry for over 8 years. We have a room here that is temperature controlled to have only a 1 degree variance, and that is set to the temperature that resin likes the best.
On resin, you mix and have about 20 minutes to pour, once poured it has a solid shape and can be removed form a mold after about 3 to 4 hours, but this is not advisable, because the item is a bit flexible. For this reason, we let the lighted speaker panels cure for 24 hours and they come out solid. What we found out is even of you take them out in 24 hours, they still bend slightly and this puts a bit of a memory in the resin, even though they look perfectly straight.
We were very surprised that after a day, in the mold that could still happen. We now keep them in the mold for 3 days after pouring. They come out straight as an arrow and as strong as a brick. I will included a picture of the molds on their boxes on the drying shelves, and they don’t get moved for 3 days. Each one of the molds costs about $500.
We have done everything possible to remove any chance of warpage. If somehow your board gets a slight warp to it, just place it in the sun for 10 minutes and it should go back to normal, or put a slight pressure on it to straighten. The odds of this being needed is very, very, very low and will not damage the board in anyway.
Next problem, the finish:
The lights we use are .38 inches wide. The U channel is .52 inches wide. The thickest speaker plastic is .08 inches wide. In light placement, we lose .02 inches. .38 inches plus .08 inches plus .02 inches is .50 inches if everything is perfect, and that fits in a .52 inch channel. That leaves 2/100th of an inch to do our finishing work over the length of the board, which is 27”.
When a board comes out of the mold it is crystal clear, which is good for light transmission, but light will not exit a clear finish well. For this reason, we must sand the top coat to get good light distribution. When we started, we were hand sanding the boards using many different sanding methods to get the proper finish. Lost many, many boards.
I identified that problem, and we made a sanding jig. Still many problems, tool selection, grit and finishes. But we still had issues. Then I found out my guy was not using the sanding jig, and it is hard to stay within .02” over 27 inches with a power sander. Another problem was they did not have a good method of measuring thickness.
We were having close to a 60% failure rate at that time.
I revisited the sanding jig with my shop guy. Walked through the entire finishing process and it is being used properly, and out of the last 40 boards, no failures, all fit in U channel.
There was also a problem with consistent thickness. The solution for this was very simple. I tracked down a metal U channel and the thickest plastic I could find (I have over 100 speaker panels here, and they are not the same thickness). The thickest plastic we could find was .077 inches. We tracked down a piece of plexiglass that is .085 inches. Now every board that is made we place in a U channel with plexiglass slightly thicker than the thickest plastic.
On the attached pictures are our last batch of boards, all fit in H-channel properly and ZERO failures or defects. Picture of the molds that we pour the boards in and they cure for 3 days. Sanding jig for the boards, the metal keeps the sanding level the same and keep the sanding from dipping, the U-channel we measure is in the back or the picture. Picture of lighted speaker panel in the U-channel with a thicker then board plastic that all boards fit in before shipping.
Summation:
The problem with the board not fitting was a potential problem on some of the earlier boards and is no longer an issue. The problem was either from a warped board or not sanding to fit. The warpage problem was resolved by using proper MDF base board and letting resin cure for 3 days. The not sanding enough problem was from not using a system that gave a consistent result. We now are using a sanding jig that only allows a consistent depth of sanding, and ALL boards are checked for sizing with a U-channel and a plastic that is slightly thicker then what is in your game.
Dan
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Dan - That is one thorough explanation! Thanks for that. Also thank you for the PM with a solution to my particular problem. As Ericpanballfan said above, your customer service rocks! You guys are the best. Thanks again.
Dan,
What is the status of STNG panel?
You seemed to have dropped it from the list of available panels; curious why.
Quoted from Zitt:Dan,
What is the status of STNG panel?
You seemed to have dropped it from the list of available panels; curious why.
Thanks for asking.
We had a lot of panels made with or old system, such as STTNG, IJ, Funhouse, Badcats, and others. We completely changed the way we make the panels, much cleaner, no hot or cold spots, color changing capabilities and a few other improvements. Because the system is completely different, we had to make each board from scratch. We have done all WPC games with the standard sized speakers that came with a plastic speaker panel. We will now go to Indiana Jones and Star Trek the Next Generation which have unique sized speakers, hope to have them done in about a month, then system 11.
I had someone asking me about our STTNG products a few days ago. I told him about our stuff and then pointed him in your direction since you have so much Start Trek stuff, hope he picked up some stuff.
Dan
4 weeks later
Quoted from Litedpinballmods:The DMD will lay on the foam, just like it does on the original board.
But the red lens is to big to fit between the foam and if I cut the foam so the red lens sits down against the wood the dmd will not lay on top of the foam. So I'll have to cut your foam for the red lens to drop down then put the cut piece on top of the red lens then put the dmd on. Correct?
2 weeks later
Budapest
Quoted from Litedpinballmods:Thanks for asking.
We had a lot of panels made with or old system, such as STTNG, IJ, Funhouse, Badcats, and others. We completely changed the way we make the panels, much cleaner, no hot or cold spots, color changing capabilities and a few other improvements. Because the system is completely different, we had to make each board from scratch. We have done all WPC games with the standard sized speakers that came with a plastic speaker panel. We will now go to Indiana Jones and Star Trek the Next Generation which have unique sized speakers, hope to have them done in about a month, then system 11.
I had someone asking me about our STTNG products a few days ago. I told him about our stuff and then pointed him in your direction since you have so much Start Trek stuff, hope he picked up some stuff.
Dan
Hello Dan,
What is the schedule about Indiana Jones?
Can you prepare this speaker panel with Jackpot lights functions (Ark, Grail, Stone are linked to playfield jackpot lamps)?
http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=1267&picno=62209
http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=1267&picno=62210
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