I know a few of you have been waiting to see these for a while. I think I will price them at 10 million, or 20 million or 30 million, or better yet, the same price as the rest. Only have a few of these at the show.

For those of you that want blood red. Set your lighted speaker panel to red, the blue will glow, but the red jumps out at you.

These pictures are of white, 2 shades of blue, red and a purple. This is with an after market UV printed panel:

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White water looked really good, with the different colors on the panel, it did some really neat stuff to the White Water panel. I will try to post some later today if it has not been packed up yet.

Yes, we are putting 3 TAF panels on one A frame. Top panel, basic panel, white only on the panel, $199.99. Middle panel, deluxe panel, white only on panel, colored LED's for speakers, $259.99. Bottom panel ultimate panel, color for main panel, color for speakers, $299.99.

Every panel will have all three level, but I am starting production with the ultimate's. On the ultimate panel, remote sensor for panel can be mounted behind translite. Speaker remote sensor goes near coin door inside cabinet. You can control them with one remote, but you will get 2 remotes. The sensors are best to be separate, so you can control each area independently.

It is hard to take pictures of mods that light up. Here is a selection of some playfield mods for Metallica. Unfortunately, I won't have a back stock of most modes at the show, but they can be ordered and shipped.

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TAF, I put the rgb's on fade:

I just PM tiltmaster, we will take care of any problems. Those that were at the show could see we put a lot of things together, and had some lose ends.

On of the lose ends was we put the instructions online. We were going to print out pages to direct people to out page online for directions. We did not have the time to do it before we left, so we brought our printer and computer with us to do it in Allentown. It took us till 9 PM to set up on Thursday, and we went back to our room to do our home work and print out the pages, and our print busted in transit. We were trying to write down or instruction page to people as we were selling, but may have missed him.

We had a nice EL Panel display set up and had all the instruction cards in our computer so we could print on site, but because of the printer problem, we were not able to sell any EL Panel, we were not a happy about that.

We did talk to a far amount of people from Pinside at the show. Some of them we went in depth about the lighted speaker panels and the plasma pop bumpers. I felt pretty strong that most people we talked in depth with were very impressed with the products.

On the lighted speaker panels, we have not gone into depth on the construction methods here, but I will give a small explanation. We start with a higher grade MDF panel. MDF work much better then plywood because it will cut very consistent. In the MDF we CNC spots for T-nuts, speaker openings, DMD openings, trench for speaker power and recess for speaker lights. The board is t-nuted, painted and back of tnuts are sealed.

We then construct rings that are to hold the speakers lights. This rings are sanded the painted, then RGB LED's installed. These are then installed and sealed on the MDF boards.

Those boards are then installed in a silicone mold. The silicone molds are quite tight, and it takes a few minutes to get the board installed. Then we install the lights, colored or white depending on the board. Once the lights are install we pour the entire board with a resin that is specifically chosen for our application. Each silicone mold cost us about $500 to make.

Once poured they need to cure for 48 hours. Once cured we remove from the mold and sand. The sanding is to remove any excess resin and to give a good light dispersion pattern. We then paint the back of the board white to give more light reflection and even out the light. Then a second coat of white and a coat of black paint. After drying a neoprene insulation around the DMD area.

Through out the entire process we check the speaker lights and panel lights.

On the tweeter side we have to install a special type of t-nut that is a lower profile, because the tweeter side has a lot of layered content. The t-nuts are installed and the panels have to set another day.

During this time we laser cut a cloth speaker grill, something like what you would find on a home speaker. This speaker cloth is install over both speakers to give balance.

We then cut speaker grills out of metal that match the original game. Those are then sealed, painted with a reflective coat on the back to aid more light in the speaker enclose, then the front painted black. Speaker grill installed.

That is the panel, it is nothing like what anyone expected, but it has NO hot spots, NO light spots and very, very sturdy.

Then it is time to put the accessory pack together. Most screws are used from the original panel, but we give a set of screws for the original DMD and a set of screws for a color DMD. to Secure the board to the game is different, so we make new brackets. It has a relay to have the board turn on and off with the game. The power supply if from service outlet. Also includes 2 color controllers and 2 remotes. Some cabling and a couple of razor blades to aid in removing the black paper on the back of your original panel.

If anyone has issues, we will be more then happy to take care of.

We also figured have the manual online will let us upgrade the manual with any issues.

When we get back, we are planning on doing online videos for all installations.

Yes, this was a long explanation, but A LOT of work goes into these panels.

Dan

On the plasma pop bumpers. We had all 10 colors on display and them installed in both a Addams Family and a Twilight Zone. I would estimate that a picture or a video was taken of the plasma pop bumpers about every 3 minutes at the show.

The Plasma pop bumpers are $99.99 each, we tried to get them less, but these are very complicated. I think that most people think of pop bumper lights they think of LED rings which are under $10 each. These are way a different animal.

These are true plasma lights, and run at a high voltage, about 3,000 volts. They don't just plug into the pop bumper light, but they are a simple installation. The plasma pop bumpers do have 2 type of lights in them. The top is the plasma which is what everyone notices. On the lower part of the plasma pop bumper is what we call a color which is what is used to secure the plasma down. This color has 2 LED's.

To install the plasma, you remove your pop bumper cap, cut out you light and remove the body. We provide a new body that is cut for the mounting.

The plasma has 2 wires with pins on the ends, these are slide though the holes that your original light came through. The plasma drops into place and 4 set screw lock it in place.

Under the play field you take the 2 wires that are pinned are put into a color coded wire harness. That wire harness is attached to a board that will allow you to have the plasma on all of the time, or you can have you plasma turn on and off with the original settings as the pop bumper. Also their is a setting for sound activated.

The power for the Plasma comes from the service panel with a wall wart. If you have a full set, and many people did get, we recommend a power strip.

To sum it up, on a single plasma pop bumper you get:

1. You get a high voltage true plasma, specially formed with the contours of a pop bumper
2. A LED ring (collar) with 2 LED's installed
3. New body and mounting system
4. Controlling PCB
5. Rewired wiring
6. Power supply

I don't think a less then a $10 LED ring is a good comparison for this mod. I feel a better comparison is a mod that you may add to your game that has 2 styles of lights, and controlling board and a power supply. Many people will drop $100 on a play field toy with 1 or 2 LEDs which DOES NOT have a controlling board and does not have a separate power supply. We feel these are much, much more complicated then those play field mods, and these make a much bigger impression!!

Ask anyone that was at the show, EVERYONE was very impressed with the plasmas.

THANK YOU very much for the feedback. We worked on these for over 18 months.

When I get back, we have a lot of work to do. I know I am going to have to make some updates to manuals (I design better then I can write). In ABOUT 10 days, I will make some lighted speaker panels and plasma lights available to those following this thread. The plasma are pretty limited.

Here is a picture of the accessory pack for the ultimate lighted speaker panel:

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This is the accessory pack for the plasma pop bumper. Most $100 play field mods don't come with this much, and won't make this much impact on a game:

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Thanks Paul. We had NO downtime. We had on display 20 lighted speaker panels, EL Panel display, 2 pinball machines, over 100 playfiled mods and the plasma display. 100% of it had never been seen before. Nearly ever vendor visited us. We had 8 different vendors asking if we were looking for a vendor to sell our stuff. We had at least 5 people do videos of our booth to publish in some manner or another.

We made many, many rookie mistakes, I am the first to say it. I want to give a special thank you to Joe and his crew for Laseriffic. He was in the booth next to us, and he helped us in many ways. Joe and his guys, very special people, in a positive way. Not to put anyone else down, because everyone was very friendly and helpful, but Joe and his peoiple went way above and beyond.

Thanks Laseriffic.

Tiltmonster had 4 concerns, he and I discussed them. I will be giving a detailed explanation later today on here about them. Tiltmonster and I talked in depth about them, and I am very happy he contacted me with the concerns. Over all I feel they were all minor and have simple solutions.

I wanted to go over the installation problems that Tiltmonster had. Tiltmonster did a some leg work for me and checked on a few things for me. It is very important to me that any little flaws are resolved now instead of later.

1. We worked hard on getting a universal power hookup that would work on all manufacturer games. We did achieve this, and the hook up is a little different then normal, but simple. On the end of one wire we have a round terminal that is your ground, and screws into a ground screw. This hole was designed to be a 6-32. We have installed many of these, and they all were 6-32. Tiltmaster got an 8-32 on his and it did not fit on fit on his ground.

FIX-checking our supply line to make sure we are using 8-32. If you got a 6-32, PM me and I will send an 8-32

2. H channel issue. Normally the H channel is held in with 4 screws. We are suggesting to use NO screws to hold in your H channel. We have made them with and without H Channel, and they performed equally both ways. As a matter of fact, the Twilight Zone and Addams Family that we brought to Allen town traveled over 800 miles had no problem with no screws holding in the H channel.

Normally on the H channel on your game has four 8-32 pan head screws to secure the H channel to your wood board that holds your speakers and DMD. The first few boards we made and installed at the shop, we drilled 4 holes for a 6-32 3/8" wood screw and then ordered 3,000 of those screws. This secured the H channel. After we installed those few, we realized that everything install fine without using any screws to secure the H channel. We are suggesting not using any screws on your H Channel/

Here are the pros and cons as we see it with feedback from Tiltmonster.

If 2 or 4 screws are used for installing the H channel it MAY help you to secure your plastic in your game if you are doing a lot of work on your game.
If we don't put screws in, here are the advantages:
1. The lights that light up your panel are between those 4 screws and the top of the panel. This is the best way to get the best quality lighting with reducing hot and cold spots. If screws are put in, it will slightly negatively impact your lights.
2. The speaker panel is an acrylic/MDF hybrid using both in construction. The area the holes would get drilled would be for a 6-32 screw. If by mistake a larger screw was put into the holes, there is a very high probability that will crack the top of the board. The board is very strong and will last forever, but it is never a good idea to put a wrong size screw in, and I just don’t want that to happen to anyone in the future.

FIX-Put line in the instructions that no screws are needed to secure H channel.

3. Somehow he did not get mounting brackets in his package. Because we had to change the configuration of the back of the panel slightly, the existing mounting brackets won’t work. We made new mounting brackets, and have hundreds of them here. I am shipping those to him.

FIX-Make sure mounting bracket is in accessory pack. If anyone is missing a mounting bracket, please PM me and I will send it to you.

4. Mounting the transistor above the small speaker. On the original boards the small transistors that are mounted on the back of the board near the small speaker with a ¼” driver. Those are removed from your old board with a ¼” and screwed into the new board with the same screw in the same location with the same tool. This was omitted from the instructions, and Tiltmonster wanted to verify he would not damage his board in doing this.

FIX-Put a line in the instructions

The Twilight Zone and Addams Family that we brought to Allentown traveled over 800 miles on some rough roads (especially in South Carolina) had no problem with no screws holding in the H channel. We also have removed the lighted speaker panels from many games, many times that did not have screws on the H Channel, and we had no issues.

If anyone else has any issues or concerns, please PM me and I will take care of. One of the main reasons we put the manuals online, was so we could update them if needed.

Thank You for any feedback.

Dan

We are going to wait a week before shipping any other panels to verify any concerns are addressed. If you are interested in a lighted speaker panel or Plasma pop bumpers, please email us. We will also go through past emails to notify people that these products will be ready to ship in the next week.

In the next 2 days, I will post some pictures to show the differences between the 3 panels we offer.

Dan

Thank you very much. It took days to put the displays together. Because of shortage of time with used black tape to secure the speaker plastics to the lighted panels to simulate H Channels. As the hours went by the tape was slowly sagging and the speaker plastics were slowly sagging, LOL. We are ordering U Channel today to clean up and improve the display.

It was unbelievable how many positive comments we got. The plasma pop bumper display was nearly a health hazard. Hundreds of people stopped to look at them, and many people were so distracted by looking at them, that they bumped into the people that were standing there to look at them.

It was funny on Twilight Zone and Addams Family that both had the plasma's installed, they had hundreds of of finger prints in just those areas on the glass, and they were perfectly clean in the other areas.

Yes, that was a bad surprise. The Addams Family and Doctor Who both have 7 lights under the DMD, I always thought they had the same exact sized holes. It turns out the holes for the lights are a little smaller (1/4") on The Addams Family then they are on Doctor Who. When I set up the display I noticed that and was surprised (I assumed). I had 7 people that wanted to purchased a doctor who board, but I refused to sell them, because they were not right. 2 of those people offered to purchase the board the way it was, and cut the holes a little bigger, but I would not sell it to them that way.

The Doctor Who board will be a priority for me, and should have it ready in a couple of weeks.

Dan