A local collector was kind enough to part with a Williams Police Force. It had been stored in their warehouse for 15 years, and probably in another warehouse before that as they bought it in a 'bulk sale'. It's in pretty rough shape, but mostly complete. This is my first pin, and first pin project. I want to learn the hard way

Main issues: Playfield paint missing, bottom of main display and jackpot displays are out (there are white specks on them - outgassed?), spinner assembly missing, car not working, diverter error, main ramp in bad shape, interconnect board damage, CPU board damage

Plans: Address all main issues, custom LED's, NVRAM.. this won't be a "level 3" restore, but I want it to look good enough, and be fully functional.

I'm anticipating the most difficult parts of this restore will be the playfield paint, board work, and finding or machining a replacement spinner. I have not played the game yet because of the condition of the playfield. There is a layer of dirt on it, it has broken plastic laying around, and lots of areas where the paint is missing. It appears that the Mylar was previously removed. I know it will be a ton of work, but I'd prefer to restore the playfield myself, and 2PAC it. I'm in central Illinois, so I probably won't be able to work on the paint for several months due to the cold weather. I'm going to take everything off the top to see exactly what parts I'll need (lot's of missing hardware and some plastics), clean with Naphtha, wax, and reassemble so I can get everything else working.

The backbox key was broken off inside the lock, so I had to bend the plexi (did this originally come with glass?) to get it out. Somehow, I found the extra key on top of the playfield glass. I removed the broken key with two knives, fixed the lock mechanism as it was not connected, and made a copy of the key.

I'm a little hung up on order of operations. Should I work on the boards next? Where should I start?

Here are a few pictures showing the current condition. What do you think? Have you seen a playfield that was in worse shape restored with an airbrush and waterslides?

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Thank you for the feedback and suggestions! I was really hoping to repair the board, as I know it's partially working. The game does turn on, and seems mostly functional going through the tests. It'll buff out, right?!

If I do need to replace the interconnect board, I'm a bit worried about what caused it to burn in the first place. What would cause this and how do I make sure it doesn't happen again?

I will start to pull boards this weekend to clean up and at least test all the fuses, and install NVRAM. Do I need to worry about replacing caps or rebuilding the PS? I'm planning on installing LED's (I heard that I should leave the flashers incandescent?)

Good call, I will hold off on NVRAM/LEDs for now. I've played Police Force on location without a spinner but I'm determined to have one, and willing to make it if necessary.

Interesting!

Thank you, sending PM

I pulled the interconnect board (ICB) today and noticed something interesting... it's from The Bally Game Show I saw the date stamp on the board and noticed it was after Police Force production ended, so I Googled the part number on the board (D-12313-2003). DumbAss already pointed this out, but I thought they meant in general, and not for this specific game... I still have a lot to learn.

#game-show is a System 11C game, but from my research, I think Williams used the same ICB for all System 11 games after Swords of Fury (D-12313-XXX), with different resistor configurations. Not sure if this explains the board damage, or if it was already damaged before it was swapped in. I still need to check the resistors.

The 4 fuses on the ICB were all 250v 5A and had continuity, but one does have some type of damage inside the glass.. and it's an ADL fuse (normal blow if my Googling is correct, which I don't think should matter - it should blow sooner than SB, right?). Just curious, anyone know what ADL stands for?

I attached more pictures of the damage to the front and back of the board, as well as the ADL fuse.
F1 ADL fuse (resized).pngICB Front (resized).pngICB front damage (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

Here are the ICB resistor values as tested:

R1 - 5.2 ohms
R2 - NO CONTINUITY
R3 - 5.1 ohms
R4 - 5.2 ohms
R5 - 11.3 ohms
R6 - 5.3 ohms
R7 - NO CONTINUITY
R8 - NO CONTINUITY
R9 - 11.4 ohms
R10 - NO CONTINUITY
R11 - NOT INSTALLED
W11 - 0.3 ohms (W11 NOT MENTIONED IN MANUAL)
W12 - 0.2 ohms
R13 - 1.54k ohms
W13 - NOT INSTALLED
R14 - 3.33k ohms
R15 - 3.21k ohms

Can anyone confirm that the manual is correct?

ICB resistor values (resized).png