Naperville, IL
Looking for a Sorcerer near Chicagoland area. My Comet is getting lonely 
Thanks in advance for any leads
(Topic ID: 28744)
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Sorcerer
Williams, 1985
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Thanks for the link! Looks like a sale pending. Wish I was closer as this is exactly the condition and price range I was looking at.
3 years later
Quoted from Gubbin:Joined the club today! One of my favorites from my childhood. It definitely needs some TLC. This is my first "classic" game so I'm looking forward to learning all about it it. PF is decent, some insert wear but overall one of the better ones I've seen in person. Cabinet is pretty good, a few scuffs. Backglass has some chipping at the bottom. Going to keep me busy for a while for sure. Looks like maybe it was at a Showbiz Pizza in its early days.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Nice original playfield! Sorcerer is the first pinball I truly remember playing. My childhood friend had one in his basement and we would stay up late and play it in the dark. It's not the most advanced compared to it's Sys 9 cousins, Comet and Space Shuttle, but there's something special about Sorcerer's brutality, double spinners, and simple rule set.
1 week later
Quoted from Chisel:Right where it belongs and where it will stay until I’m dead and gone. [quoted image]
The Sys 9 trinity! I finally own Sorcerer and Comet (and High Speed, see you have one too), but no longer Space Shuttle. Time to find another SS.
Quoted from Gubbin:This is my first "classic" game. Up until this point it's been only spike 2 games. I pulled the MPU to have the battery holder replaced for NVRAM and just general inspection /workover. Is there anything else I should be conscious of?
I know a lot of people frown on LEDs in the older games. How do I go about replacing those "tastefully"?
I'm about to order some hardware from Marco's. Is there any common parts I should throw in to make sure I have on hand?
Personally, I like to rebuild the power supply boards - new caps, new header pins, and fix any wiring hacks best I can. If I have time, I'll re-pin the connectors that go to the power supply board as well (best practice).
Quoted from jibmums:Heh, I did exactly the opposite. LED's under all the inserts (non-frosted red under red, green under green and warm white under white/yellow/orange) and incandescent #47's in all the GI. Same result though, looks incredible!
Color matching the insert color is key IMO. I personally like frosted 1SMD for inserts and 2SMD sunlight for GI, but really need to have a variety and just try what you like.
My drop target wiring daisy chain must be screwed up. The point value is determined with the last drop target that goes down. Is that right? I thought the first one down stopped the value from advancing? Should it be daisy chained across the bottom lug of every switch? Far right is on the side of the switch/diode.
IMG_9982 (resized).jpegQuoted from midcoastsurf:My drop target wiring daisy chain must be screwed up. The point value is determined with the last drop target that goes down. Is that right? I thought the first one down stopped the value from advancing? Should it be daisy chained across the bottom lug of every switch? Far right is on the side of the switch/diode.
[quoted image]
Image Gallery for the win! Thanks to Ben1981 for posting this pic.
Sorcerer (resized).jpgBoulder mod kit for Sorcerer? Here's a rough mock up using the boulder images from WhiteWater and an aftermarket mod/tunnel with eyes that light up. All the flat plastics with bricks/stones on them got me thinking about what it could look like to bring this Sorcerer's world to life in 3D. Another idea for the left ramp is to use a dragon skull with eyes that light up (similar to Scared Stiff). Thoughts?
Boulder mod (resized).pngQuoted from thc666:I running version v037 what version is everyone else running?
Is that a game rom version? I wouldn't mind a different background sound option or a new rule set that included different skill shots and other features.
Quoted from jibmums:This is Sorcerer, not The Flintstones.
Lol. Ok, maybe I’ll settle for a dragon skull with eyes that light up above the left ramp.
2 weeks later
Quoted from fuzz:Back in the club after a 8 year hiatus.
Recently picked another one up
It has quite a few issues
Main one being all the GI Lights are out
Checked out the power driver board and there is some damage
have a new one on the way
Im going to rebuild the flippers and a few other things.
Is there anything else I should do/look for?
Is there a MPU replacement board?
Ive been scanning the thread
Thanx in advance
What kind of board damage? May want to track down what caused it to prevent it from burning up the new one.
Fuse mod for the bridge rectifiers?
Quoted from Gubbin:I've been attempting to track down an sound issue on my Sorcerer. It's made this droning sound ever since I picked it up but the audio worked once a game was started. At the advice of a friend I reseated some connectors and now there's no sound at all, just this warbly/droning sound. It does go away if I go into the diagnostics "menu" from the coin door buttons.
I sent the sound board/power board/MPU to a guy to be "bullet proofed". He sent a video of the sound working on the test bench so I'm looking for other opinions. He did mention the MPU had previously been reworked and he wouldn't recommend putting any more into it. The game is starting/playing etc. The volume knob in the cab is real scratchy to turn , not sure if that's related or not.
Here's a link to the gameplay/attract
https://imgur.com/a/4PrNEtm
I believe that's more of a grounding/shielding issue. Mine does the same thing and all sounds work fine. The droning notes change with the lights in attract mode. Some have mentioned making sure all screws are tightly secured and accounted for on all boards.
Quoted from fuzz:In the Switch test all the switches in Row 2 are active
per the manual if any row shows multiple indications check the column wire for a short to ground
The column wire is green brown
Where do I check to find the short to ground?[quoted image]
I would look at your ball roll tilt switch since it's the first switch in the row. Is there a diode on there? If so, it may be shorted. Should be the switch at the end of the ball track on the left, inside of the cabinet. Check the diode to see if it's still good and check continuity across the switch while it's open to see if it's "shorted" closed.
Disclaimer: no expert here, just where I would start if it was my game with this issue
Quoted from Sorokyl:I dunno about decent but better than yours maybe. The main issue is they are warped. You'd have to be comfortable with some technique to dewarp them to want them maybe.
Here's all the old warped plastics I have if anyone is interested
[quoted image]
PM sent
Quoted from fuzz:Sorry for the delay
The switch that was closed was a leaf switch number 42, Top left corner.
Once I adjusted the switch the tilt went off
Game plays fine, BUT if that switch is hit the game TILTS
What comes up when switch 42 is closed in switch test?
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