Sorcerer
Williams, 1985You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider kawydud.
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Thanks for the info on the plastics, just ordered me a set of those. Next thing is getting the playfield restored. If you still have the files for the stencils, they would come in handy when I repaint my machine.
Link to my pictures of the playfield after installing LEDs. http://s37.photobucket.com/user/jbarsh/library/?page=1
If you have the game plugged into a normal outlet, you have the right fuse. The 220v is for overseas machines.
Quoted from greatwichjohn:Now that I'm back from vacation. Time to get the Sorcerer playfields here for restore done this Spring.
Sweet, looking forward to getting mine back.
Quoted from vicjw66:Do you have problems with some of the insert leds staying lit when they shouldnt be? Especially extra ball, inlanes, and a,b,c,d. Since you just got yours it might take a little time to notice all the issues.
If you have inserts lighting when they shouldn't be, you probably have a bad transistor in the lighting circuit. I have a Comet that was lighting inserts when it wasn't supposed to. Tested the transistors, but didn't realize you had to have them out of the game to test. They are so cheap that you might as well replace them when you take them out.
Quoted from vicjw66:Nope. Incandescents don't, just certain Leds. There are numerous threads regarding this phenonenom. Something to do with the small amount of current that leds run on. These old games were not designed with leds in mind. Anyway, Hergs Led ocd board fixes the problem.
I misread your post, thought you were having issues, my bad.
Also, I have full leds in both Comet and Sorcerer, no ghosting at all, but I use non-ghosting premium bulbs.
I have an original manual at home, I will try to get them scanned if no one has helped you before me.
Click on your color choices on the right, only white and warm white available. Colors would be nice, but doubtful they will ever be available since only a limited number of pins used 6volt flashers.
Quoted from Kneissl:If you OCD, you don't need to worry about ghosting or seizure inducing light shows. I don't see how sys 9/11 games can ghost the GI, since it's switched on or off by relay.
The strobing is for any GI in general because of the AC power.. if they're just a single diode led, you'll get 60hz flicker which is pretty bad.. If it's an AC LED (you don't need to reverse 555 bulbs of this kind) you'll get 120hz, which some claim is ok.. You can mod this to DC, it's fairly simple. The cheapo switching power supplies you can get from ebay are powered by regular line voltage, tap in off the main power switch (add a fuse if you like), then you need to get the right molex plug coming off your transformer. Typically these are the bunch of yellow wires, I can't recall for system 9 (and maybe it's more of a permanent mod if there's no plug), but on system 11 this is a 4 pin plug and you can make it easily reversible. look carefully at the plug, i have seen different keyed (squared) pins on sys 11 games even tho the plug as a whole looks the same. one set of the yellow wires should have some kind of stripe on them.. pick one to be your negative & positive and wire the plug accordingly.
On my system 11 games the power saving function will make the GI bulbs strobe something terrible, once that is turned off I haven't seen the flicker effect from the AC power like you are talking about. The bulbs I am using are AC, so that may be why I am not noticing the issue. I originally had cool white bulbs in Sorcerer and it did look terrible. The retro warm whites seem to look very nice in my opinion.
It is a great game, working on my Taxi playfield swap right now so that I can tackle the new playfield for my Sorcerer.
Quoted from weaverj:looks like pinscore led displays. jealous...
Blue X-pins really look sweet on Sorcerer.
Dang, guess I was lucky getting mine done in less than 6 months. You guys will really love the end result.
Quoted from embryonjohn:Put four 7 LED strips into my Sorcerer and now wow what a light show when the machine goes crazy
Do you have them just tied into the standard GI circuit?
Cointaker sells the 63 flashers, you can also modify the game to use 12 volt flashers as well. Someone posted about it in this thread somewhere.
Quoted from weaverj:i installed what came in cointaker's kit without any mods...
Yes, the 63 flashers from Cointaker are 6 volt flashers. You can also modify the game if you want to use some color flashers that aren't available in 6 volt.
Quoted from Brijam:What F-14 run? Are there any more to be had?
They are also making HS2 playfields.
Quoted from wizard_mode:Has anyone ever replaced the capacitors on their PSU? If so, I am wondering what the symptoms were indicating they needed to be replaced?
I haven't done my Sorcerer, but I recapped one for a friend with a Sorcerer. His game was resetting and doing a couple other things. Very easy rebuild.
Quoted from comment23:Hi everyone,
Just joined the Sorcerer club!One question for folks: I would assume finding a new / repro BG is pretty much impossible?
Congrats on the game, love mine.
You can get a new back glass here - http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=PP&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-31-1316-532
Quoted from SkillshotExhibit:Thanks for the video post but the video does not give directions on how to put the game into Free play mode. Does anyone know how to put the game into Free play mode?
You have to set the max credits to zero I believe, something along those lines. I have it in my manual at home, if someone doesn't chime in before that.
Quoted from comment23:I've got an interesting issue to see if anyone has run across:
Issue: Super weak left flipper.
The link arm is attempting to get pulled into the coil, however it just cannot do so. If I assist it, it can be grabbed by the coil, but the magnetic field is so weak, I can easily pull it out while energized.
Steps taken to resolve:
1. New coil (with diodes), coil sleeve, coil stop, flipper bushing, spring.
2. New double stacked flipper switch (gapped properly)
3. Cleaned and confirm closed EOS when not energized.
4. Buffed/polished link, so no binding is occurring.
5. Measured voltage on lugs: 68 VDC.
5. Measured resistence on lugs on old & new coils: (Left & middle 4 ohm, middle & right 4 ohm, left & right 162 ohm). This is different than the right flipper coil's measurements on the left & right lugs (which is also around 4 ohm, not 162 ohm).
Some other potential thoughts:
1. Broken strands in wire?
I hope someone can tell me the stupid thing I'm not thinking about....
Were all of those repairs done after the issue started? Typically when you have a super weak flipper, it is because the coil isn't getting the voltage from the EOS. It is only getting the hold voltage winding, which is very weak.
Quoted from comment23:Yeah, prior to any restoration work on the pin, I always make sure everything is working. No issue with this flipper prior to that.
I had originally plan on just replacing the coil stop and coil sleeve, but just kept replacing parts that didn't look healthy or could possibly resolve the issue.
The EOS switch looks great and I can confirm continuity across the switch at rest. Perhaps the leads to the lugs?
Something isn't giving it the power that it needs when called for, make sure there is power going to the EOS.
Quoted from comment23:Update:
I fixed it. But it was an odd problem....
My potential thought turned out to be correct. One of the piece of wires between the EOS switch and the coil lug was broken and shorted on many strands, causing the power to be severely diminished.
I replaced the wire and BINGO! Full power once again. Here's a pic of the mangled / internally broken wire:Thanks kawydud for being a sounding board!
nice work, always cool to find the problem easily.
Quoted from comment23:Here's another question: Am I missing something from the diverter assembly?
Mine is seemingly floating in the right orbit.
1. I checked the Williams BLUE parts catalog and can't find this assembly.
Here's what the bottom of the diverter looks like under my PF:
don't have mine opened up, but this picture looks just like what you have. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wanted-sorcerer-cabinet-stencils/page/8#post-1033285
Quoted from per3per3:Does anyone know what the blue diode (assuming that is what it is) is for in the pic?
Thanks!
That is a capacitor, someone may have installed that to reduce EOS arcing.
Quoted from Brent1955:OK, changed the batteries and flipped the switch several times, still a no go. Can't add games by flipping the coin switch and doesn't seem to be getting power to the game start button. Any suggestions of tracking down the circuit? I do have a manual for this, although the schematic is in small print.
Download the manual so you can zoom in on the schematic. - https://www.ipdb.org/search.pl?any=sorcerer&search=Search+Database&searchtype=quick#2242
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Watertown, MA