According to Vid, yes, but just with the mechs, not the boards:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers/page/3#post-773606

Side note, I picked up a project Sorcerer on Monday. Have yet to get it set up and sorted out, but looking forward to getting it cleaned up and playing 100%. I'll likely start a troubleshooting thread like I have been for bouncing ideas off of people, but I'll be checking in here too!

It's there, I edited to inform that it just swaps out the mechs, but the link is there.

oh lol. Sure I'll post it up for anyone that wants to follow along. It really helps me when I can post out my issues (even if no one chimes in) to think through the problem and figure it out. Did this for a few project games that I've had. Some have had more hand-holding than others, but I've learned each time.

Yeah, not sure you want an overly snappy flipper only a few inches from a set of drop targets

Well, the good news is that 98% of my game works so I probably wont be started a "big" troubleshooting thread afterall. The main thing right now is that the bottom pop isnt firing. The switch doesn't register in switch test and the solenoid doesnt fire in solenoid test....so I'll have to do a bit more tinkering to see if I cant fix it. I'm going to install NVRAM in the game and will reflow solder to the header pins at the same time. Hoping that'll solve my problem.

Plus, I think one of the previous owners installed updated mechs, but still used the stock conical spring. I'm a bit of a purist so I may leave them in.

Is this what you need?

20190916_151145 (resized).jpg

It's almost 100%. Ordered new leg bolts and levelers, plus I have to change out the coil stops on the lower flippers. My plan was thwarted however...

And I broke off a leg on one of these ceramic resistors. Is there an issue if its played with the leg just "plugged" into where it broke off of? I have more on order so will replace it when I get them.

20190921_164328 (resized).jpg

20190921_190009 (resized).jpg

20190921_204916 (resized).jpg

When should the bell ring? It wasn't working before. I cleaned the switch, made sure it was normally closed, opened when the bell knocker hit the bell, and closed again when in resting position.

Ok. I have the glass off so it should be easy to test in-game.

Got it to ring in-game when an extra ball is earned.

Do you all have rubbers on the outlane posts and center post removed? I find it's a bit easy with the rubbers on. Also, does anyone know if this bracket will work for the right flipper?

https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-right-staked-flipper-base-sub-assembly.html

I've had misses on the center bank come back so fast on the center post without rubber that it still bounces back up onto the flipper. But I rarely take those shots. It doesn't need to be punishing, but it did play long with the rubbers installed. I thought about pulling the star posts out too, but might seem to make the outlanes too big.

Does anybody know of, or can make, a plastic protector for the center stand-up target bank?

I found it. This ebay auction must be from the same person.
ebay.com link: Williams 1985 Sorcerer Pinball Machine Used Set of 2 Plastics Free Shipping

I'm dealing with a couple issues that cropped up after replacing the leg brackets yesterday. Any help would be appreciated!
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sorcerer-right-flipper-locked-on-and-error-code-7#post-5232665

Such as???

Oh. Damnit. I knew that lol. I mixed this thread with the Laser Cue thread Ignore my ignorance

I just installed new flipper bats and Titan flipper bands in my game, and now dead passes are pretty much non-existent. I've tried both regular thickness and thin, and there seems to be no difference. I have Titans on all my other machines and I can dead pass just fine. Do you think it's got something to do with the flipper bats? It's like when the ball hits the flipper, all of the impact is just absorbed. I don't see any movement of the flipper really. It really throws me off.

No slop at all. It's the weirdest thing. The same set of flipper bands behaves differently (like how I'm used to) in other games than in this one. Must be the flipper bat, because they dead bounced fine before I changed them. I don't have regular flipper rubber to test with.

Can someone post a picture of the sling switch capacitor and resistor? I want to make sure I reinstall the caps correctly. Both of my caps had to be disconnected from the switches as they were causing issues, but now I don't have a reference to look back on. Much appreciated!

I was referring to the small capacitor that is attached to the switch on the slings, but I got it. I appreciate the effort anyways

That's the best way to pinside...you're doing it wrong otherwise!

I'll be going under the pf later so I'll post some pics of the lamp wiring for you.

Try opening the coin door, then turning the machine on/off/on in quick succession. It should go into attract mode when it is turned on. If it doesn't (just lights up) there is an issue as shown by the error code on the MPU. Also try changing the batteries.

I replaced the pop caps on my Laser Cue with the standard red clear caps. It actually looked pretty good and not out of place.
https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-pop-bumper-caps.html

Or PBresource has the plain opaque variety if you didn't want to do translucent.
http://pbresource.com/pfbumper.htm
http://pbresource.com/caps/stn-4a317-r.jpg

Personally, not a fan of the LED caps listed above, especially on an older game like this. It just doesn't fit the era imo.

Going back to your original post and what is happening today. When you turn on the game, does it go into attract mode? Can you get into diagnostics? Are there any error codes on the MPU? Let's start there first.

That's really crappy. i don't buy mirco for several reasons, and here's another to add to the list. Sorry that you have to deal with this. My suggestion is to reach out to Cliff Rinear (of "Cliffy" fame, and see if he can make you a longer custom inlane guide while still retaining the original mounting points. That would be the least intrusive way to close that gap. Of course, the clear plastic on top wouldn't match the lane guide on the bottom, but either that, or make the flipper hole more oblong as Mirco suggests and move the flipper assembly up. Even then, you'll mess up the flipper gap, unless the flipper hole is shifted too far down. Hard to tell in the pic. You can't move the lane guide itself down, because then that'll mess up the inlane/outlane positioning.

What are the measurements of your outlanes? Are they both the same? If the left outlane is smaller than the right, then I would have an easier time moving the guide closer to the flipper.

I would suggest reaching out to Cliffy in that case. I know his improved lane guides are already a little bit longer but by the looks of yours, you might even need to extend it.

I can't see that as being normal. I'll try to get some pics and measurements on mine.

Here is my original PF with Cliffy rails. They bridge the gap to the flipper but wont fix your extended gap with the Mirco PF. There's definitely something wrong with your Mirco.
20200407_210438 (resized).jpg20200407_210448 (resized).jpg20200407_210452 (resized).jpg

I wouldn't be surprised that they don't bridge your gap. Yours is quite beyond the factory ones. The clear plastics in the pics are where the original lane guides ended on the flipper for comparison.

I highly doubt mirco will give you a refund. Like I alluded to before, I wouldnt buy anything from him for other reasons. This is just another reason to add to the pile. Sorry you guys are going through this.

If you're not opposed to doing some soldering, I have these in my game and they are great.
https://www.wolffpactech.com/product-page/williams-system-7-9-display-kit-orange-digits

As far as your flipper goes, I would suggest cleaning your EOS and cabinet flipper switch (or replacing them if they're really pitted.) Make sure you can manually plunge the flipper without the plunger binding on anything. If the brackets are mis-aligned holding the coil down, it would affect flipper performance.