(Topic ID: 28744)

All things Sorcerer thread


By trilogybeer

7 years ago



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  • Latest reply 2 days ago by BRW84
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#1457 1 year ago

Hi everyone,

Just joined the Sorcerer club!

20171128_163903 (resized).jpg

One question for folks: I would assume finding a new / repro BG is pretty much impossible?

3 weeks later
#1465 1 year ago
Quoted from SkillshotExhibit:

Hi all,
I just bought a Sorcerer recently and Im having a really difficult time understanding how to navigate through the menu system. Im trying to type in the code so that the game will work on Freeplay. I have a copy of the game manual and Ive read it over a hundred times but Im still not getting it. Does anyone have a basic summary on how to navigate through the menu, in particular how to change the settings to three ball games and Freeplay?
Thanks!!

Even though this if for BK (Sys7), it all still applies to Sorcerer:

#1469 1 year ago

I've got an interesting issue to see if anyone has run across:

Issue: Super weak left flipper.

The link arm is attempting to get pulled into the coil, however it just cannot do so. If I assist it, it can be grabbed by the coil, but the magnetic field is so weak, I can easily pull it out while energized.

Steps taken to resolve:

1. New coil (with diodes), coil sleeve, coil stop, flipper bushing, spring.
2. New double stacked flipper switch (gapped properly)
3. Cleaned and confirm closed EOS when not energized.
4. Buffed/polished link, so no binding is occurring.
5. Measured voltage on lugs: 68 VDC.
5. Measured resistence on lugs on old & new coils: (Left & middle 4 ohm, middle & right 4 ohm, left & right 162 ohm). This is different than the right flipper coil's measurements on the left & right lugs (which is also around 4 ohm, not 162 ohm).

Some other potential thoughts:

1. Broken strands in wire?

I hope someone can tell me the stupid thing I'm not thinking about....

#1471 1 year ago
Quoted from Kawydud:

Were all of those repairs done after the issue started? Typically when you have a super weak flipper, it is because the coil isn't getting the voltage from the EOS. It is only getting the hold voltage winding, which is very weak.

Yeah, prior to any restoration work on the pin, I always make sure everything is working. No issue with this flipper prior to that.

I had originally plan on just replacing the coil stop and coil sleeve, but just kept replacing parts that didn't look healthy or could possibly resolve the issue.

The EOS switch looks great and I can confirm continuity across the switch at rest. Perhaps the leads to the lugs?

#1473 1 year ago

Checked the voltage on the EOS switch. Looks good.

Here's a quick video (sorry for the rotation issue):

#1474 1 year ago

Update:

I fixed it. But it was an odd problem....

My potential thought turned out to be correct. One of the piece of wires between the EOS switch and the coil lug was broken and shorted on many strands, causing the power to be severely diminished.

I replaced the wire and BINGO! Full power once again. Here's a pic of the mangled / internally broken wire:
20171227_135520 (resized).jpg

Thanks kawydud for being a sounding board!

1 week later
#1476 1 year ago

Here's another question: Am I missing something from the diverter assembly?

Mine is seemingly floating in the right orbit.

1. I checked the Williams BLUE parts catalog and can't find this assembly.

Here's what the bottom of the diverter looks like under my PF:
20171226_165900 (resized).jpg

#1478 1 year ago
Quoted from Kawydud:

don't have mine opened up, but this picture looks just like what you have. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wanted-sorcerer-cabinet-stencils/page/8#post-1033285

Ah Ok, thanks for finding. I went looking for photos, but couldn't find any. So, does the diverter actually "do anything"? It's not being controlled by anything?

#1480 1 year ago
Quoted from jibmums:

Here's a pic of mine, which works just fine. Looks like you have the arm on your pivot attached at a 90' angle to how it should be.

Got it! That's probably the source of no tension. Since I couldn't find a schematic, I left it as it came. Thanks guys!

3 weeks later
#1491 1 year ago

Has anyone tried burning the L2 MPU ROMs off of IPDB? I've burned and verified U19 and U20 but I keep getting a "7" on the LED, which means the CPU board is locking up.

If I drop the L1 chips back in, all is well.

1 week later
#1499 1 year ago
Quoted from Brent1955:

Fellow sorcerers
The counter for the 4th player recently went out on my board. Where would i get another one? I would prefer not to have to replace the whole set.

Big Daddy Enterprises usually has some of the originals in good working order. Just make sure you buy the 7 digit.

They may not show up on his site, it's best to email.

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