Shine all your metals to a mirror and flip the F out of it!

What would cause the solenoid fuse to blow every few games. It will boot and work for sometime a bunch of games sometimes only a few, and then the solenoid fuse blows. Does that sound like a pf issue ?

Just had a super weird issue. Came into the arcade and the displays were dead. No solenoids. Nothing.

The 2.5amp solenoid fuse blew and the 7amp logic fuse blew!! Assuming something on the power supply has shit the bed. 12v is good, where do you measure the 5v?

I'm helping a friend get his sorcerer sorted. We replaced the power supply MPU and flipper power board. The flippers come on weak then die. Now nothing at all. The first right most stand up target when hit, pauses the music? Maybe these faults are related? Also needing the wizard's hand plastic that goes over the center bank of stand ups. Any help here would be greatly appreciated. All I'm finding are complete plastic sets. Nothing on ebay or marco.

EOS switches set right? With all those new parts it's almost like it has to be a funky wiring issue or something.

I suspect a bad coil based on my cursory review of the machine.

Both of them though?

Well I guess something is amiss on both flippers in either case. Strange behaviors for new everything on that guy.background sound stopping I would have guessed was an MPU / chip issue. Maybe sound board then.

Anyone have a spare wizard hand plastic for over the standups?

Advice needed…picked up a nice Sorcerer recently that’s having some intermittent sound issues. I lose all sound, both speech and effects. Seems to come and go. I got it back by reseating the sound roms on the main board. Question is should I send the boards away to get a once over as there is a louder then what I would call normal buzz from the speakers. Thinking things could be related? Also, old boards that may need a bit of Bulletproofing anyway.

New sockets couldn't hurt with intermittent sound loss but the buzz is likely the board needing a cap kit, the pot needs cleaned, or a cruddy connection somewhere.

Appreciate the feedback. I’m going to give the boards a once over here in the very near future. That way I’ll be starting with a known functioning set.

Anyone have any ideas why my upper flipper coil would be overheating? Brand new EOS switch, plunger etc. Moved freely, but in a few games it's warm enough that it's binding on the plunger and flipper then sticks up.

Flipper button switch is not stuck and this is the only solenoid doing this. Any thoughts?

Thanks!

Likely a problem with your EOS gap, or the physical alignment

Found it. Was actual wired wrong, bypassing secondary, dumb mistake. Don't wire flippers when tired!

looking for a one way gate assembly for the multiball kickout if anyone has an extra or an idea on where I can get one. Thanks

Did you ever find one of these? I have one, it's not perfect but its not horrible either.

Still need one bud!

It’s yours if you want it. PM me your address and I’ll get it out asap. It does have the one hole broken out but otherwise isn’t bad.

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hello,
if U want to make a new one ^^

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Pretty cool!

Check out the snake plastics on this prototype Sorcerer. Bad ass!

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/153275

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Got a Sorcerer this week.

I was browsing around and I saw the flyer in the photos section on pinside..

In the "Casting a spell" section it mentions Demon being lit the first time a single letter in SORCERER is lit, Extra Ball lit on first full SORCERER, playfield special, outlanes, spinners, collect playfield special, etc.

Is that correct? Did rules change at some point? I know mine always lights Demon and Extraball together. Outlanes/Spinner after the second time... maybe. I feel like I've had it before that but maybe misremembering.

what is "Playfield Special" and how to collect?

Finally, mine has a new Mirco playfield and the owner opted not to install the center drain post. Should I add it to have the game play as intended? I do tend to have a good bit of STDM that it would prevent. I have the old playfield for an indication of where it goes, though I'd buy the part.
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I’ve been around this hobby for a LONG time and I’ve never seen a prototype sorcerer. Very cool. Snake plastics are very cool.

Mine also lights demon and extra ball together, so something must have been changed.

As for the center post, I like having it. Any hot sdtm shots bounce back for redemption, but slow shots don't seem to have enough bounce to be saved. I'm also not a great player, so I like any bit of "ball save".

There are liberal and conservative setting for bonus, extra balls, etc. See pages 8 and 9 of the manual. I keep mine on conservative. I may pull my center post and put in some lightning flippers. Sorcerer is fun, but fairly easy when you get on a roll.

Mine lites Demon only on first completion of S-O-R-C-E-R-E-R, and both Extra Ball and Demon on second completion.

Always try to lite & score Demon on your last ball so you get treated to the fun light & sound show as it counts down your extra bonus after you drain.

Several years ago, I heard a sound effect on Sorcerer that I'd never heard on it before or since. Had a very quick first ball that almost immediately went SDTM. The next thing the game should have done was count down my meager 2000 bonus, with the appropriate sound effects, right? Nope; instead, it played the same or similar sound from Defender (videogame) when a game is first started, it almost sounded like it was mocking me, before counting down my bonus. Anyone else ever heard this on their Sorcerer?

Just joined. Great example. My main current issue is humming during attract mode, the sound pitch changes based on light display.

Assume this is a grounding issue. I’ve tightened the boards in the backbox but no change. Any ideas?

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I have that issue too. I also have no attract mode callouts, even though they are enabled in settings.

I have a brand new Classic Playfield Reproductions Sorcerer playfield in case anyone is considering buying one. It came with the machine when I bought it recently but I decided not to do a full playfield swap since the current playfield is in good shape. It's listed on CPR's website for $849 plus $64 shipping but I'm selling mine for $800 cash with pickup in York, PA.

That weird humming is pretty standard in this era. Not much you can do about it. It’s the sound of interference from the high power being so close to the sound. DEs suffer from the same issue.

Grand Lizard is much worse here and they are next to each other.

I just picked up this game locally. It is no showpiece, but it plays fairly nice. Question for the club, are these the factory posts with the rubber on the slings going behind the rail like this?

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Should sit on top of the rail. Mine has red star posts, but it's a new playfield.

Cool, thanks!

Mine have always gone behind the rail, and I've seen others behind the rail. I think it's a diabolical little sneaky trick from the factory so that when the ball rolls up one of the inlanes quick enough, it bounces off that little bit of rubber around the top post and often ends up in the outlane. If that wasn't the whole point, the addition of that wire ball guide would be kinda pointless.

IPDB agrees with you.

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It is certainly a funky design compared with other games I’ve shopped from this generation. But it works . I got it playing pretty nice and put it on location in a little shop in Mesa, AZ that gets a small amount of traffic but has tournaments. Someday I’ll totally rebuild it, but for now it will be fun for our tournament play.

My flipper fuse is blowing.

I lifted the playfield a couple of days ago to adjust a couple of leaf switches (not related to flippers), and on the next game, noted the flippers were dead.
I replaced the fuse (5A sb replaced with 5A sb) , played a game, and flippers died again after a game or so. I assume i bumped something under there or something. i have no idea.

I measured resistance with the game off but coils in circuit.
I'm measuring across the diodes, first across the right diode (in the pic) then the left:
right flipper: 0.6ohm, 4.7ohm
left flipper: 0.1ohm!!, 4.7ohm
upper flipper: 3phm, 6.3ohm

that 0.1ohm seems like a problem, but also suprised at 0.6ohm, but i don't really know what I'm doing
I'm sharing a picture in case that help. I notice there's only an EoS switch on the right flipper, i guess thats supposed to be like that? leaf switch seems ok mechanically.

There are some stray wires by the left flipper. a green/white and a blue. not sure what's up with that. Previous owner did playfield swap. Game has been working fine for some dozens of plays (hundred plays?) just some leaf switch tweaks needed.

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One thing that stands out is the flipper pawl assembly on the left is installed upside down. Flip that thing over!

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If that caused your EOS switch to never open, then your coil might be shorted. That could cause the difference in resistance readings and could cause the fuse to blow.

Your first measurement is measuring the EOS switch. Open the EOS and the resistance should change to the 160 Ohm range.

That's for the playfield tilt switch. It probably wasn't re-installed or was never installed by the factory.

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^^^^^ THIS.

That will cause the fuse to blow if you keep the flipper button pressed. There will be a power stroke but no hold since the hold winding will continue to be shorted by the EOS switch.

Wow thanks guys I'm blind. I thought there wasn't a EoS switch on that flipper for some reason I couldn't see it!! Makes total sense why this is a problem..thanks! Unsure why it didn't blow before, maybe is just on the threshold

I have a brand new Classic Playfield Reproductions Sorcerer playfield in case anyone is considering buying one. It came with the machine when I bought it recently but I decided not to do a full playfield swap since the current playfield is in good shape. I'd take $700 for it. I also have new side rails for $90.

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Hi all, yes okay, I could keep playing and wait until I find out for myself, but my question is, what triggers the bell in gameplay?

I have it set to 01 (ON) in the settings, it dings in solenoid test, but I'm yet to hear it whilst playing.
I assumed it would be the drop targets, like in Black Knight.

The other thing I noticed, only due to reading the instruction in post #2277, 'casting a spell', that hitting any of the letters lights DEMON at the 3 bank of drops, mine does not, is this in the settings? I will check pages 8 & 9 again as mentioned in post #2280.

Any help/advice appreciated, Cheers!