I just ordered a CPR replacement playfield, and will do a playfield swap soon. Any advice from those who have done it before? Are all the holes and dimples that are not correctly positioned? Is the clear coat a good quality?

I've done one playfield swap before (Pool Sharks), and didn't have too much of a problem.

I have a Sorcerer that I restored several years ago. Had a few of our local tournament players over this weekend and one of them mentioned to me that there is an updated version of the ROMS that change the ruleset of the game, including how multiball is achieved etc. I've done some searching for this but haven't seen anything online about it. Anyone know what he was talking about and where to get the updated ROMs?
Thx.
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I haven't heard anything about that.

The popular tournament mod I knew of was putting a large post rubber on the right side of the ramp, making it more difficult to hit.

I not sure if this is it but maybe, there is no information I can find on what it changes.

https://mattsbasementarcade.com/product/sorcerer-sys9-roms/

It looks like it is L1 in the lil dropdown menu.

CPR playfield received. Looks awesome. I’m starting my playfield swap. I’m nervous but excited to get it installed. Will probably take about a month.

I too was looking for it.i hit contact button on his site but keeps coming back with errors. So i have no idea if this changes anything on game play.

You guys with the 7-million scores are cracking me up!
Put lightning flippers in it already...
Slow, aren't you?
-mof

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Some people like to play the game as designed.

Bracket was taken out and degreased and thoroughly cleaned but still binding too much. I see the manual states that this game actually DOES get oiled in certain spots?? I believe it mentions the metal-on-metal pivots. Anyone know what one is supposed to use? I was gonna just use 3-in-1.

Aardvark did the board repairs, excellent quality! It didn’t have much wrong with it, surprisingly. Sometimes you get lucky.

On the spinners I use the tiniest amount of old-school Hoppes No. 9 gun oil, and they rip. I imagine other metal on metal points could use the same, sparingly.

This stuff is great.

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Yeah, that is good stuff, too. I use it on the axis rods of my 3D printers. Clean and de-grease again before switching to synthetic, though.

Starting my Sorcerer playfield swap. Removed everything from the topside of the old playfield, and now unscrewed everything from the bottom of the playfield. Ready to move all the underside components over to the new CPR playfield. No turning back now! The most stressful thing was hammering in the shank nails for the pop bumpers mech. In general hammers and clear coated playfields don't go together! But turned out fine. Labeled every single switch and solenoid using blue tape, so I know where they go on the new playfield.

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Can anyone post a picture of their ball lock kickout? I think mine has the wrong sized plunger.

hello,

maybe someone has a scan of the slingshot plastics ?

thx Mike

Start button doesn’t work, I think it’s missing a diode, can anyone post a ref?image.jpg

Just put the diode on and now the ball eject kicks endlessly. Weird short

yep you are missing a diode.

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About half way though my playfield swap. Going well so far. Most of the dimples on the new CPR playfield are off by about 1/8" and some are completely missing. It doesn't sound like much but it makes a big difference lining up switches in their slots, and so forth. So every switch I have to measure the holes on the old playfield and use that to know where to screw in the switch on the new playfield. Slows things down alot.

Having some phantom tilt issues on a sorcerer at a local bar. went over everything and nothing seems off. all tilt diodes,wires, and adjustments are good but it just randomly happens. it's not giving the danger but is going straight to the next player so seems like slam tilt or playfield tilt. I cant find any physical problems and I'm stumped. They are running a Rottendog board, so maybe that's the culprit since I've had issues with rottendog and other titles before, but never used on this system before. any help would be appreciated, thanks.

No bonus count I'm assuming? Are you sure it's set for warnings?

If it's a diode issue see if you can figure out the symptoms as far as are the drops down, is there a ball in the lock or in the trough, etc. Could be as easy as a loose diode on the tilt bob.

yea it's not a diode as I've swapped in new ones on all tilt switches. yes no bonus, and yes I can get Dangers from tilt bob. ball just ends and goes to next player randomly. its tho only random thing wrong with this machine, everything else works fine.

Did you go into switch edge test? I would make sure when you press every switch individually on the playfield, only one switch activates, and doesn't activate several switches at the same time. I think it is common, maybe there's one playfield switch that activates slam tilt unintended.

Also, check every solenoid, make sure the diodes are intact and not broken off. I believe that can cause phantom issues.

Yeah what he said. The way diodes work it may need several switch activations to show, and may be a diode on the same column or row as the tilt. There's some good documentation you can google on diode issues in a switch matrix that form a square.

I believe slam tilt would end the game. Make sure everything is good with the ball tilt as well as the pendulum. Try activating each and see if it matches the behavior you're seeing.

yea I've went into switch test to try to get the tilt to activate but I cant seem to replicate it. all the coils and diodes r good. I can play like 3 or 4 games with no issues and it will just randomly happen, and when it does its never the same scenario in game. makes me think the Rottendog board is the issue. like the game works as it should I can smack the cab,playfield and shake the game and I dont get random switch activation for random points just dangers like normal. of I remove tilt bob I get no dangers or tilts until it just randomly decides to lol

Are you tracking what we're trying to tell you with the switch matrix?

If it was an issue with the board, you’d probably see problems with more than one switch. This is either an intermittent short or a switch matrix problem. Sure sounds like a switch matrix problem. Switch matrix issues happens when 3 switches are held closed and one of them has a bad/shorted diode. The bad diode won’t be on the tilt switch; it’ll be on one of the other 3 switches. 2 of those 3 switches will be on the same row and column as the tilt switch. If you look at the switch matrix table for Sorcerer, the tilt switch and those 3 switches will form a rectangle. Since 3 switches have to be held down simultaneously for the phantom closure to occur, the 3 switches normally involve some switches that are held down for long periods during gameplay (e.g., trough switches, lock switches, VUK switches, lane change switches, etc.). If it’s a switch matrix problem, it’s not the tilt switch diode that’s the problem—it’s another switch’s diode.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/solving-a-switch-matrix-issue-a-case-study

I would:
- Go into switch diagnostics and make sure none of your switches are stuck closed.
- During gameplay, manually activate the tilt bob, slam tilt, playfield tilt, and roll-ball tilt to see if you can tell which one matches the behavior you’re seeing.
- If you can figure out which one is getting triggered, look for switches on that same row and same column that are held down for long periods during gameplay.
- If you find two switches like that, then draw a rectangle between those switches and the tilt switch as 3 of the corners. The 4th switch that closes the rectangle is also suspect.
- Simultaneously hold closed the 3 switches (not the tilt switch) and see if the tilt switch triggers.
- if so, replace the diodes on those 3 switches.

I believe if you disconnect the switch connectors from the MPU you can also test diodes in circuit.

I'll look over everything again and see what I can find, but none of the switches are stuck closed bc I checked every one on the column and row for the tilts. Maybe I overlooked idk.

Did you read dudeman's excellent post on how switch matrices work? I feel like you're ignoring advice on purpose at this point.

yea, I read his post. you assume a lot man. I feel like your trying to start an arguement for no apparent reason. I understand how a switch matrix works, I've been doing this for years. I may have just overlooked something like I said before. Reason I said rottendog board is bc I've personally had issues with there boards on system11 games that make zero sense.

Yeah cuz people are telling you the most likely cause and you're like "yeah yeah yeah I did something that is not at all equivalent to what you're telling me" and not mentioning trying any of the other troubleshooting tips that were posted. You just want us to tell you your board is hosed? Ok, your board is hosed.

you know what man I'll just leave this thread since you feel obligated to just keep coming at me lol. pretty ridiculous.

I was having a bizarre situation where the game would be kicking out balls for no reason and constantly trying to eject a locked ball that didn’t exist.

Then randomly it would be fine.

Turns out one of the locked ball switches is extremely close to the prop arm. It musta slammed down and bent the switch itself! It was shorting against the body but only very occasionally! Had to bend the whole thing back to normal, and now it works excellent.

That issue drove me crazy, and I thought it may be several other things.

They grey looks great in my opinion. They fit right in. Purple flippers for some contrast. I also did orange post caps with grey post caps for slings. I have a kit at Titanpinball under Tim W. If you like it, please buy my kit, it gets me a very small credit towards future purchases. (I ran short on post caps, but my kit is correct!)

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ebay.com link: itm

Target decals. Just saying.

Oh yeah, for sure. Patience grasshopper, patience.

I would possibly be on the market for a backglass too if anyone has one reasonably priced. Mine isn't horrible but missing some ink on the middle of the lower edge.

Planetary's reproduction is stellar. My original was missing a little paint in the middle--not noticeable to anybody but me. I've got no regrets replacing it with the reproduction.

Planetary's repro backglass is excellent, a perfect match for the one shown in the Sorcerer flyer.

However, there were 2+ versions of the Sorcerer backglass originally made. The one shown in the flyer, and then another with finer/more delicate black outlines, which preserves more of the detail. When I first received my PP backglass I was a bit let down when I compared it to my original, as many of the smaller colored areas were almost filled in with black. When I checked it against the flyer image though, it was a fairly exact match to it, so obviously that's the one that they copied when they recreated the artwork. I don't even notice the difference anymore.

Note I said 2+ versions above, as I've seen other variations in the colors of the wizard's satchel and the snakes around the border. Curious as to just how many versions were originally printed, but we'll never know.

Can’t find anything right now. My Search-fu is failing.

Occasionally, typically when locking a ball, the display goes totally blank and the game does nothing. You can still flip, but the sound does and nothing scores.

It just completely freezes up.

Any idea? My 12v is reading 11.15v can it be adjusted somewhere?

Has anyone else lost 99% of the sound before? The game plays and scores just fine, but there is no speech and the only sound is a "waaa, waaa" sound. It makes the same sound when running the sound test from the board.

I got new roms, checked the ribbon cable, and tested the caps. Any ideas where the problem might be?

I just entered to this club today!
Bought a nice Sorcerer and also a brand new old stock playfield in perfecft shape that i will make the swap next year.
There is some mods or upgrades avaliable to this beautiful pinball machine?
I googled, but i didn't found anything

Some have suggested pulling the center post and installing lightning flippers

It's perfect as it is.