Hi, I was curious if you guys know of a Molex connector kit I can get for my Sorcerer? I have replaced a few, buying them 1 at a time, but I want to replace all of the male connectors on the board and the female plug connectors on the entire machine. Is there a place that sells a kit, or do I have to buy them individually? Thanks in advance.

I don't know of any kits. I'd recommend replacing anything IDC with crimp and stuff though.

You know I'm in!!! I'd do anything, I told him his fixed it...and it did there is ZERO hop, but I don't love the gap, so I'd be happy to order a correct left lane flipper rail! The right is realllly close to perfect.

Hmmm... I "need" a new sorcerer playfield soon. Both CPR and Mirco have had their issues. I was tempted to just wait until CPR restocks their digital playfields but was hoping the Mirco was a good option.

I checked in on this thread to look for playfield advice and saw this issue... no recent reports on the CPR though? Digital or otherwise?

Thanks Zombywoof, I will pull the batteries. I forgot about those.

Also, my displays are dying ever so slowly. Does anyone have any suggestions on replacements?

My middle flipper (as opposed to finger) is slow. I have replaced the coil and other parts before with little change. Any suggestions there?

Thanks

If you're not opposed to doing some soldering, I have these in my game and they are great.
https://www.wolffpactech.com/product-page/williams-system-7-9-display-kit-orange-digits

As far as your flipper goes, I would suggest cleaning your EOS and cabinet flipper switch (or replacing them if they're really pitted.) Make sure you can manually plunge the flipper without the plunger binding on anything. If the brackets are mis-aligned holding the coil down, it would affect flipper performance.

Thanks FatPanda. I will give that a go on the score boards.

I didnt mess with the cabinet switches. I will include that in my next process.

You might want to check out this thread for tips on flippers.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers

Restoration guys... did yall sand and polish your visible big metal pieces? I wasn't happy at how most of them cleaned up with just steel wool and polish.

After discussing with Cliffy and doing some measurements we decided the only way to most easily get this thing right and not look like crap is to redrill the new. damned. playfield. Ugh. Due to the plastics on top you'd have to do a double mounting system and there wouldn't be enough clearance with the bells that mount the guide and the plastic without making big modifications.

Edit: just went hog wild with it. Stepped up from 280 -> 3000 got the ball trail out and turned out nice and shiny. Other wireform is a "before" for contrast. Disclaimer: took all freaking day by hand.

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Harbor Freight has an inexpensive tumbler that I bought. It works great for shining up old metal. Set it and forget it. It goes on sale every once in awhile. Don’t forget to use the 20% off coupon that comes in their flier.

https://www.harborfreight.com/18-lb-vibratory-bowl-with-liquid-drain-hose-96923.html

These guys were waaaaay too big for the ol tumbler. I feel like my tumbler does a good job but not as good as hand polishing

Has anyone installed a CPR Sorcerer playfield yet? Still a few projects on the list but I'm looking toward getting that started late spring/early summer (this will be my first playfield swap). Would love to hear any words of wisdom specific to this build from any that have gone before.

How are the flashers wired? There are 2 pairs of flashers, each pair is jumper wired together. There is a jumper between the two flashers that I *think* should go from socket A post to socket B body, and it is on one of my flasher sets, and on the other it goes from socket A post to socket B post. I did a 9v test on each of them (one terminal to each open lug) to see which would work and both pairs lit up... what the heck! I remembered one of my sockets didn't have a flasher bulb when I broke the playfield down but it was removed before I took the photographs so I'm not sure which was it's supposed to be. Wiring diagram was no help.

Can you please post a pic of where you need a picture? I can take some pictures tonight after work of the area and post them.

Can you help out my sorcerer project by removing just one one of your MPU connectors and testing continuity and resistance across a few of the connector PINs?

I have a thread with more detailed info here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/-5v-and-gnd-test-as-continuous-sorcerer-sytem-9-mpu#post-5631995

Good luck!

I recently had a Sorcerer owner ask if I would create some apron cards for him, so I wanted to offer them to other owners.

I print the cards on a photo quality printer using 6 color OEM inks and thick OEM ultra gloss photo paper. I then coat with a clear gloss vinyl and color the white edges for a finished look when installed.

The cards are $10 per set including postage. If interested in purchasing, please PM me to arrange payment. The cards are made to order, and I'm usually able to send no more than one or two days from day of payment.

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Evening everyone,
Would anyone have some good pictures of the service switches wiring ? I have to recreate all the wiring for the switches mine has all been cut out

Thanks
Bruce

Are those the switches on the coin door "operator settings" buttons? I managed to snap some pics by turning off my light and laying on the floor... hopefully they work for you!

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https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/custom-apron-cards-printable-versions-only/page/11#post-5237011

There's a bunch of sorcerer cards here too if anyone didn't want laminated and wanted to print their own.

Yep those are the buttons i needed
thanks for the pics

Bruce

Now i have a grounding ? does anyone have some pictures of the grounding for the head. Where does the the grounding wire form the transformers that is in the plastic tubing go ?

Thanks
Bruce

Bump
Anyone have pics of the grounding wiring for the head ? Cant figure out where the insulated ground from the transformer goes .

Thanks

Does everybody's ramp sit on top of the playfield, or inside the cutout and flush with the playfield? Somebody else that did a restore said that he had a piece of metal inside the cutout but I definitely didn't have an additional piece of metal my ramp sat on, and with the new playfield it sits low. From my "before" photos it looks like my ramp might have been sitting on top but I can't tell.

Mine sits pretty close to flush with no spacer CPR repro playfield

Lols must be because the clearcoat is so much thicker and superior on this mirco. J/k it definitely is not. Barely tightening posts and they all leave impressions after all this time curing.

Chalkey I promise I'll get that photo for you!!! Sorrrrrrry!!! I'll try to knock that out tonight!

@chalkey. Sorry about that! Find the photos below. (I couldn't stand it, I feel like i let you down so ran down and got those photos real quick) I can send you high res images if you want just toss me an email (you have it).

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Thank you!! Improvised one out of scrap metal. Hopefully it works well as that's a sure hotspot for playfield wear if the ramp sags below PF level. Almost makes me want to rivet a flap.

Agree. Can you show us your improvised piece if it's not too embarrassing? May help others who are missing the wedge.

I didnt take any photos before installing, which sucked so I'm not keen on redoing the work unless somebody really wants a visual. After all, I might be the only person who doesn't have the metal plate with their game. All I did was take some scrap metal and cut out a square slightly shorter than the distance between the screw holes. I made it too narrow so I held it in place (from sliding back) with a small screw. If I was going to do it again I'd just make it longer and drill cutouts for the ramp screw holes like the one you've got.

Since I still don't have my plastics returned a year and a half later I had to shell out freaking $175 for plastics from CPR. Remind me to invest in a large bed scanner and a laser cutter. The good news is I should be ready to reinstall the playfield around the time they get here next week. Thanks everybody for all the help along the way, especially chknlil.

Don't have a space in mine Got my play field installed yesterday just need to figure out the grounding issue above before i power up to see what needs adjusted

Bruce

Here's a few pics of the ramp on mine.
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This ground braid joins the head ground braid at a wingnut just to the left of the wire channel.

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Well that explains a lot lol, i don't have that wingnut mounting point my cab didn't have the bottom of the head when i got it so i had to make my own and didn't know that it needed a ground mounting point ill have to add that thanks for the photo. could i trouble you for a few more pics that show where the braid runs within the head so i can make sure mine is attached in all the correct places.

Thanks
Bruce

bigfoot53 it's interesting to me that you didn't have room for a spacer under that ramp it's hard to tell from the photos. Did CPR not have a nice large cutout in there? Did your original playfield have the cutout and CPR just decided not to put one there? Does your ramp sit flush with the playfield? Does the ball hop going up the ramp? Does that mean you have an extra spacer that was under the original ramp on your original playfield? So many questions!!!

I installed a CPR field and no issues with either flipper/inlane guide placement or reinstalling the shim underneath the ramp. My ramp sits flush with the field.

Hey Chknlil,
New playfield has just the right cut out depth for the ramp to sit flush. No shim on original playfield so no spare shim . No ball hop its a smooth transition up and down the ramp .

Chalkey MIND BLOWN....again.....no shims....my original playfield had a shim...and don't see how it would've worked without one....mind blown...

Well mine didn't have a shim, worked great and was the copy Mirco used to make the repros (that somehow require a shim)! That area on my old playfield would be ripped to shit if the playfield sat as proud of the ramp as it does on the repro.

1000000% Agree. Starting to think this shim that was in mine was not factory...I wish I could see how the ramp would have sat in there originally! Mind is BLLLLLOOOOWN!!!!

Mine doesn’t have a shim either. I’ve heard sorcerers run was split and had been updated as they went. The early run games have a steel coin door and the later black painted. They could have made other changes as they went. Not uncommon. Mine has a black coin door.

My unit (which had the ramp shim originally) has the black coin door of later runs. I really wanted to swap for the older style during my resto, but couldn't source one at the time.

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Is that a custom cab paint job? Haven't seen one with purple before. Looks pretty cool!

fosaisu It is. I was never a fan of the orange and yellow. I realize it may not be for everyone, but really like the end result. It was a TOUGH decision deviating from "stock".

Looks really nice

I'm sorry I forgot to post those backbox pics. Hope this helps. Had to take them from the wrong side since my game is up against the wall and empty right now. Goes from the wingnut behind the back plane, grounds the back plane, then up to the lock hardware on top.

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Awesome, that's exactly what i needed Thanks for the extra effort i greatly appreciate it.

Can anybody describe or show photos of how the eyes mount to the back plastic? Especially the distance between the two as I can probably rig something up. Sadly, mine is with Mirco for reproduction for the last two years and probably has the mounts with it.

Hey Chalkey,
Here are some pics of the original mounting plates and the new way i mounted my CPR repro set Hope they are helpful.

The originals were the square standoffs but will not fit in the repro set because the pre drilled hole is way to big so i used some standoffs from a spare repro flipper power supply board and it works pretty good i will probably black out the screw head as well just to hide the mounting point a little better .

Bruce

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Awesome. Thanks!!

Finally finished a few days ago. Plays like a dream with cliffies installed and new holes drilled for them. No hop at all. It almost seems like cheating compared to my original in how much easier the lock ramp and spinner shots are. Can anybody with an original playfield measure the size of their outlanes? In the mirco the left is a bit larger than the right. I had the choice of either match the artwork or move everything on the left side of the PF .2" or so to the right. I decided to live with it and if it's a drain monster I can move the adjustable outlane post down to the bottom. So far it seems fair but every time I get a left drain I cringe.

Titan whites. All comet leds, warm 2smd GI, non ghosting 1smd color matched inserts. I worked really hard on metal polishing. The clear pop bodies and skirts are pretty swanky looking and really brighten up the playfield with the 2-way comet pop lamps. I wish they extended the artwork underneath!! They would look really amazing on a game that did so. As usual the photos don't really capture the lighting effect very well. Only things left to do are get a little bit better lineup on the "orcere" targets and see if I can get a little more oomph out of my trough and multiball kickouts. About 1/10 times they need a 2nd try to eject a ball. Not that big a deal but one of those "I know it's there" things. They all have new sleeves and squeaky clean / deburred plungers so it's probably an alignment issue.

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Handsome! I've got to get off my ass and get my CPR installed, maybe I'll finally get around to it this summer.