(Topic ID: 28744)

All things Sorcerer thread

By trilogybeer

11 years ago


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  • 2,386 posts
  • 249 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 62 days ago by Chalkey
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There are 2,386 posts in this topic. You are on page 35 of 48.
#1701 4 years ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

I have not done this on sorcerer, the mechs in mine were pretty good. Replacing the ball guides to eliminate hop was key though.
I did the swap on Gorgar though which has the older style mechs and it was night and day.

Awesome. What mechs do I need? Did you change the coils too or just everything else?

#1702 4 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Awesome. What mechs do I need? Did you change the coils too or just everything else?

Definitely check the coils, both of my lower ones are overpowered (waiting to fix until I do playfield swap) so good to confirm you've got the right ones in there even if they're functioning well.

#1703 4 years ago
Quoted from fosaisu:

Definitely check the coils, both of my lower ones are overpowered (waiting to fix until I do playfield swap) so good to confirm you've got the right ones in there even if they're functioning well.

Is the manual correct in this regard?

#1704 4 years ago

Also I guess what I’m getting at is do I need any special parts to take these from compression to extension springs? I guess the plunger and pawl would be different and maybe the bracket too?

#1705 4 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

picking up a sorcerer this weekend. I plan to upgrade all the flippers mechs to WPC mechs. Anyone else done this?

I didn’t know you could upgrade to WPC. Do you mean with the Fliptronic boards? System 11 upgrade was the standard.

#1706 4 years ago
Quoted from vicjw66:

I didn’t know you could upgrade to WPC. Do you mean with the Fliptronic boards? System 11 upgrade was the standard.

According to Vid, yes, but just with the mechs, not the boards:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers/page/3#post-773606

Side note, I picked up a project Sorcerer on Monday. Have yet to get it set up and sorted out, but looking forward to getting it cleaned up and playing 100%. I'll likely start a troubleshooting thread like I have been for bouncing ideas off of people, but I'll be checking in here too!

#1707 4 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

According to Vid, yes, but just with the mechs, not the boards:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers/page/3#post-773606
Side note, I picked up a project Sorcerer on Monday. Have yet to get it set up and sorted out, but looking forward to getting it cleaned up and playing 100%. I'll likely start a troubleshooting thread like I have been for bouncing ideas off of people, but I'll be checking in here too!

Please share the thread link. I’ll be doing the same. I don’t expect this one to need much, it’s just been sitting for a long time in someone’s basement.

#1708 4 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Please share the thread link. I’ll be doing the same. I don’t expect this one to need much, it’s just been sitting for a long time in someone’s basement.

It's there, I edited to inform that it just swaps out the mechs, but the link is there.

#1709 4 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

It's there, I edited to inform that it just swaps out the mechs, but the link is there.

I meant to your troubleshooting thread. Haha

#1710 4 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

I meant to your troubleshooting thread. Haha

oh lol. Sure I'll post it up for anyone that wants to follow along. It really helps me when I can post out my issues (even if no one chimes in) to think through the problem and figure it out. Did this for a few project games that I've had. Some have had more hand-holding than others, but I've learned each time.

#1711 4 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

oh lol. Sure I'll post it up for anyone that wants to follow along. It really helps me when I can post out my issues (even if no one chimes in) to think through the problem and figure it out. Did this for a few project games that I've had. Some have had more hand-holding than others, but I've learned each time.

Look forward to it. I’ll post my findings there on what I do with the flippers, but I’m liking Vids thing for sure. I’ll probably keep the upper flipper stock though.

#1712 4 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Look forward to it. I’ll post my findings there on what I do with the flippers, but I’m liking Vids thing for sure. I’ll probably keep the upper flipper stock though.

Yeah, not sure you want an overly snappy flipper only a few inches from a set of drop targets

#1713 4 years ago

I got my new CPR silkscreened playfield! Excellent quality as always.

After years of playing on a faded, worn, paint crazed playfield--this vivid, shiny playfield looks downright strange to me!

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#1714 4 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

picking up a sorcerer this weekend. I plan to upgrade all the flippers mechs to WPC mechs. Anyone else done this?

I've done this, but a few years ago now. You've played it at the Cleveland Show with them before. If you need me to, I can open the playfield and take some photos so you can see what parts I have, etc.

#1715 4 years ago
Quoted from Geocab:

I've done this, but a few years ago now. You've played it at the Cleveland Show with them before. If you need me to, I can open the playfield and take some photos so you can see what parts I have, etc.

That would be awesome!! Hopefully I can see what the coil numbers are too. I loved the way yours plays. Thanks George!

#1716 4 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

special parts

You just need the springs, new EOS switch, and the brackets for the flipper pawl, you can screw springs into the playfield or bracket screws if you want, you don't have to replace the big assembly bracket and everything else.

Old conical springs suck, end of story. I have 0 on all my Williams machines from Gorgar -> Diner

I just drop everything in the ultrasonic, clean/dry really well, add the little 1" bracket on there with the spring hole, and replace the spring, and put a new sleeve in there, and gently brush-dremel the old lane change switch contacts, and always fresh EOS switches...

x3

-mof

#1717 4 years ago

I hope these help.

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#1718 4 years ago

Well, the good news is that 98% of my game works so I probably wont be started a "big" troubleshooting thread afterall. The main thing right now is that the bottom pop isnt firing. The switch doesn't register in switch test and the solenoid doesnt fire in solenoid test....so I'll have to do a bit more tinkering to see if I cant fix it. I'm going to install NVRAM in the game and will reflow solder to the header pins at the same time. Hoping that'll solve my problem.

Plus, I think one of the previous owners installed updated mechs, but still used the stock conical spring. I'm a bit of a purist so I may leave them in.

#1720 4 years ago

Just got the game home. 2 of the 3 flippers are locked up in the coils. Coils are swollen to hell and back. I am going to get full new assemblies for each flipper. I went with these and got the coils George showed above. Got a great price on the game so figured why not. Some burnt connectors, power cord needs replaced, flipper mechs replaced, then a full top side tear down cleaning. That might be all this badboy needs. I might make a shop out thread for this one.

https://www.pinballlife.com/full-flipper-assembly-for-williamsbally-machines-from-021992-to-101998.html

These should drop right into the game and even has a drop down for the coil type to use. I do not think the coil stop matters for Sorcerer, so I went with the most common one.

#1721 4 years ago

So now that plastics, backglasses, and silkscreened playfields are available, how can we get spinner decals?

#1722 4 years ago
Quoted from RCA1:

So now that plastics, backglasses, and silkscreened playfields are available, how can we get spinner decals?

Have any local cut vinyl shop print them for you. I think a lot of libraries have small vinyl printers too.

#1723 4 years ago

Can anyone take a picture of the posts and rubber that is under the big plastic and to the left of the right spinner? They are between the left side of the right spinner and the lock eject. I took stuff off too fast and the previous owner had posts screwed in random spots. Not sure where these are supposed to go. Thanks!

#1724 4 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Can anyone take a picture of the posts and rubber that is under the big plastic and to the left of the right spinner? They are between the left side of the right spinner and the lock eject. I took stuff off too fast and the previous owner had posts screwed in random spots. Not sure where these are supposed to go. Thanks!

Is this what you need?

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#1725 4 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

Is this what you need?[quoted image]

Thank you!! Looks like I need a ball guide too.

#1726 4 years ago

Anybody still awaiting an email from CPR that paid the deposit back in January?

#1727 4 years ago
Quoted from DarkTruth:

Anybody still awaiting an email from CPR that paid the deposit back in January?

Yes

#1728 4 years ago

UPS brought me a present today! So stoked to finally have this in my hands. Definitely puts into sharp contrast just how faded my original is, pretty amazing what time and sunlight will do... I'm curious about the part of the Sorcerer's cowl in the lower PF area where there's a two color transition visible on the original but it's solid on the repro, thinking it might be layers of ink that faded differently over time to create a transition that isn't visible in the original art? Really odd and I didn't notice it until I had them side by side.

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#1729 4 years ago

Got my PF yesterday, and it looks fantastic.
I was on the preorder list very early, so I don't think there is cause for alarm for those waiting.
Seems like the groups going out are fairly small.

#1730 4 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

picking up a sorcerer this weekend. I plan to upgrade all the flippers mechs to WPC mechs. Anyone else done this?

I have wpc mechs in my sorcerer. It’s a huge improvement.

#1731 4 years ago

So I’ve been having an issues with the green/brown line on the switch matrix. It won’t add credits or start a game. Everything checks out fine and then it will suddenly work fine. Then stop again. I reflowed the connector and the switches and still not sure what else it could be. Any ideas?

#1732 4 years ago
Quoted from Its_me_aj:

So I’ve been having an issues with the green/brown line on the switch matrix. It won’t add credits or start a game. Everything checks out fine and then it will suddenly work fine. Then stop again. I reflowed the connector and the switches and still not sure what else it could be. Any ideas?

I had a similar problem. Couldn’t add credits or start a game but had power to the flippers and occasionally I would turn the game on and it would work. Never could figure it out so I finally just bought a known working power supply board to swap out and it fixed the problem. My guess is that it’s a problem in the power supply board.

#1733 4 years ago

Power supply board is good. Everything was working fine and the it stopped again. Seriously have no clue what’s going on

#1734 4 years ago

It's almost 100%. Ordered new leg bolts and levelers, plus I have to change out the coil stops on the lower flippers. My plan was thwarted however...

And I broke off a leg on one of these ceramic resistors. Is there an issue if its played with the leg just "plugged" into where it broke off of? I have more on order so will replace it when I get them.

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#1735 4 years ago

When should the bell ring? It wasn't working before. I cleaned the switch, made sure it was normally closed, opened when the bell knocker hit the bell, and closed again when in resting position.

#1736 4 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

When should the bell ring? It wasn't working before. I cleaned the switch, made sure it was normally closed, opened when the bell knocker hit the bell, and closed again when in resting position.

I think when you spell sorcerer. Might be a setting too.

#1737 4 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

When should the bell ring?

There’s a test for it in the solenoid/flasher test if you want to make sure it’s working. It’s solenoid 15. Mine is very quiet in the test, but it’s loud in-game. The times I remember it ringing are when you get the extra ball from the drop-downs and when you lose your last ball while you have hold bonus.

#1738 4 years ago
Quoted from kyle5574:

There’s a test for it in the solenoid/flasher test if you want to make sure it’s working. It’s solenoid 15. Mine is very quiet in the test, but it’s loud in-game. The times I remember it ringing are when you get the extra ball from the drop-downs and when you lose your last ball while you have hold bonus.

And after spelling sorcerer three times for special.

#1739 4 years ago

Ok. I have the glass off so it should be easy to test in-game.

#1740 4 years ago
Quoted from gutz:

And after spelling sorcerer three times for special.

It lights the special in the outlane. When ball rolls over lit special it rings. After 5th time spelling Sorcerer it rings automatically.

#1741 4 years ago

Got it to ring in-game when an extra ball is earned.

Do you all have rubbers on the outlane posts and center post removed? I find it's a bit easy with the rubbers on. Also, does anyone know if this bracket will work for the right flipper?

https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-right-staked-flipper-base-sub-assembly.html

#1742 4 years ago

I pulled the Outlane Star posts and left small rubbers on the inlanes. Pulled center post rubber. I might pull that whole post. Game still seems to play long. There just aren’t not many misses that kill you.

I’ll be streaming it this Thursday and really see how fast or slow the game plays.

#1743 4 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

I pulled the Outlane Star posts and left small rubbers on the inlanes. Pulled center post rubber. I might pull that whole post. Game still seems to play long. Just not make misses kill you.
I’ll be streaming it this Thursday and really see how fast or slow the game plays.

I've had misses on the center bank come back so fast on the center post without rubber that it still bounces back up onto the flipper. But I rarely take those shots. It doesn't need to be punishing, but it did play long with the rubbers installed. I thought about pulling the star posts out too, but might seem to make the outlanes too big.

#1744 4 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

I've had misses on the center bank come back so fast on the center post without rubber that it still bounces back up onto the flipper. But I rarely take those shots. It doesn't need to be punishing, but it did play long with the rubbers installed. I thought about pulling the star posts out too, but might seem to make the outlanes too big.

I haven’t seen tons of drains to the outlanes. Especially with the rubber on the inlanes. You still have a shot to save it with those. I say do one or the other, but not both.

#1745 4 years ago

Does anybody know of, or can make, a plastic protector for the center stand-up target bank?

#1746 4 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

Does anybody know of, or can make, a plastic protector for the center stand-up target bank?

yes, search this thread. Wizard_Mode was selling them for a while.

#1747 4 years ago
Quoted from AMBoggs:

yes, search this thread. Wizard_Mode was selling them for a while.

I found it. This ebay auction must be from the same person.
ebay.com link: Williams 1985 Sorcerer Pinball Machine Used Set of 2 Plastics Free Shipping

#1748 4 years ago

I'm dealing with a couple issues that cropped up after replacing the leg brackets yesterday. Any help would be appreciated!
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sorcerer-right-flipper-locked-on-and-error-code-7#post-5232665

#1749 4 years ago

This thread help me bring my Sorcerer back to life.

I picked up a nice looking project Sorcerer recently. The owner told me that it needed "Attention" and that the game had some issues.

I started a game at the seller's home, and immediately noticed the displays were out (an issue he said he was aware of). From there, the game appeared to play fine. After maybe 25-30 seconds of play, everything froze and the ball drained. He told me that was the issue he was referring to. The game looked nice enough to roll the dice, so I loaded her up and took her home.

After re-seating all the connectors, the displays fired right up. Score! Now, to address the reset...

I went through all the test, and everything appeared to be in working order. Once in the switch test though, I noticed that switch 1 popped up without me doing anything. Then again. And again. I gave the machine a few nudges, and sure enough, switch 1 would register. Having read through this thread, I realized it must be one of the tilt switches. Sure enough, switch 1 is the tilt bob switch. I took the bob off and BOOM! We're back in action!!! No more phantom tilts, and my game is up and running.

I plan on going through the game a bit more thoroughly and then selling it to fund the next one. Big thanks to the guys in this thread for saving me a lot of troubleshooting.

1 week later
#1750 4 years ago

Just joined the club. Picked one up, playfield is roached, belt sander roached. Cab has planking, one plastic is broken, one display is outgassed, but it works and the backglass is excellent. It just has a few pinholes.

Not sure what to do with this one, will do a light shop job this weekend and then decide.

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