Also in need or a hinge for head and the transformer cage. Anyone have a spare or know of anyone selling these items ?

Thanks
Bruce

With a little measuring and trial and error I've made some progress

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That is some nice looking plywood.

LOL,
In only took 45 minutes to find a good sheet at the lumber yard

A little more progress,

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All blacked out
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First color is on and not looking bad

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Thanks,
I don't think its difficult at all. Just takes time and some patience Sand off the old artwork bondo any imperfections and sand flat then prime with decent primer i used Rustoleum 2x once dried lightly sand to smooth primer the paint inverting black i used 2x semi gloss black . Let everything cure for at least 48 hours the begin the stenciling . alignment can be a little stressing but just take your time and check and re-check for alignment the shoot the first 'YELLOW' color
i did one section a day till all the Yellow was done then repeated the same order for the orange so the every section had at least 48 hours dry time so i didn't peal any paint when removing the stencil. I have i more main cab section to shoot orange and then ill be ready to clear everything

More Progress Just a few more stencils and just a little touch up and Sorcerer will be ready for Clear
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Looking awesome! Where did you get the stencils?

Got them from Kneissl a few years ago

Just received my new Micro playfield for Sorcerer. I don't know how close the color match to the game 30 years ago, but it looks a hell of a lot better than my current PF.

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Looks the same as the ones I printed for years.

Good to hear that you think this is a good quality playfield, as I have ordered one as well.

From the pictures looks 100% to me for uv inkjet production.

Hey folks, I recently acquired a Sorcerer that I'm keeping at a friend's house. It has a few issues that I've been working on and unfortunately the game has been unplayable since I bought it.

One of the biggest problems is the 10K and 50K drop targets sometimes get stuck down and won't reset. Upon inspection I noticed the T shaped base of the drop targets are getting stuck behind the drop target reset plate. Wiggling the reset plate I found there is just enough play in the plunger/reset plate to turn the plate giving the drop targets enough room to fall behind the teeth of the reset plate causing them to get stuck. When the the reset plate is turned slightly clockwise the 10k drop target is affected and if it turns slightly counter clockwise the 50K target is affected.

Tightening up the movement of the reset plate and plunger should fix the issue but I haven't been successful. The lock nut behind the reset plate is on tight. The coil has a cool sleeve so no extra movement there. I tightened the screws of the bracket holding the coil in place as the coil moved a little bit when I wiggled it. I also made sure all the drop targets were screwed onto the assembly tight. Nothing has worked and I'm kinda stumped at this point. I searched in this thread but didn't see anyone having this exact issue. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Looking to have a Sorceror restored here in Australia and checking into the eventual cost etc.

One question is the Mirco playfield list two colours for the wizards robes, purple/pink and a blue combo.

Can anyone tell me the story behind this and which one to choose?

Blue was prototype, pink/purple was production. So buy whichever you like the looks of but be sure to buy the correct plastics to match.

Also, just FYI CPR is meant to be running screen printed Sorcerer playfields any day now.

The blue colored playfield games had the earlier stainless steel coin door as well.

CPR?

Edit; CPR lists the playfield/plastics/topper as in stock, that's where i was looking at them yesterday.

Cool. You said Mirco in your first post, just wanted to let you know you may have your choice of manufacturer here.

Just got my new Mirco playfield today. Looks great. I let it sit for a few months before I swap it. Nice winter project.

Anyone? This happens on my jungle lord as well.

Yeah, I don't know. I feel as though I've tried everything.

I'm going to try and rebuild the mech on the assembly, including a newer version of the Williams reset plate. Hoping that tightens up the movement. I'll post an update after the parts come in and I work on it.

More progress

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Trial fitting the color matched legs .

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Ooooooh that's gonna look badass

Update on the drop target issue: I rebuilt the mech on the assembly replacing parts pertaining to the reset plate and am happy to say that the issue appears to fixed.

For anyone having this issue the Sorcerer manual does not have any information for the assembly. You can use the Space Shuttle manual for parts list and I used my Pinbot manual for a visual diagram as the assembly is extremely similar, pretty sure both these manuals are online to reference.

Parts I replaced were a new reset plate, plunger, 10-32 lock nut, and washer. Of course, I would only spend money after exhausting all other options to fix.

Here's the parts list I used:

Drop target reset plate Williams part # 01-7036
Plunger - drop target reset part # 02-3972-1
Washer .203 x .625 x .059 inches part # 4700-00023-00
Nut 10-32 esn nylock 238-1306-00 part # 4410-01132-00

I also replaced the coil stop/mounting screws and coil sleeve. The coil on my assembly was loose to touch upon inspection so replacing these parts tightened it right up. I figured this might prevent any extra movement in the plunger & reset plate.

It's worth noting that I used a different Williams reset plate than the one in my Sorcerer.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-7036

I noticed my Pinbot used this reset plate after inspecting it's assembly for reference. After researching a little bit, it seems as though this was an updated version of the Williams reset plate. The new reset plate ended up adding approx an extra 1/8" in length and surface area. Your mileage may vary but this worked like a charm for me.

Anyways, this is a bit of a long post but I thought it might be good documentation for anyone having this issue and for any future Sorcerer owners.

Also, here's a pic comparing of the old reset plate on top of the new reset plate. You can see the extra difference in surface area. Hope that helps.

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Getting closer
Just a little more cabinet wise and then on to backglass touch up and playfield swap .
Anyone know where i might be able to get the orange coin door inserts cant seem to find the correct ones

Thanks
Bruce
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Hi guys, my lane changing stopped working. I tried jumping the wire on the switch to no avail. The switch by the rollovers also does not change the lanes.

What's the likelihood, the transistor at Q12 went bad? (Going by memory, no schematics in front of me.). It's a 2N3904.

I'd remove the switch / column connectors and jump the two for the lane change switch and see if it does anything. If not then you know the problem is on the board, not anywhere in the wiring or connectors (unless you have cold solder on the male side).

does anyone else have those big black caps for the flippers? Seems like its not common, I am curious if it was on early production..

There's been a few mentions of those black caps earlier in this thread pages 7 & 8, seems like a there was a couple different production runs.

Thanks, I'll try that next.

Has anyone heard anything from CPR about the screen-printed playfields? I'm not in a rush, just want to make sure I don't somehow miss the boat despite having a deposit down.

Nope. But I had the same worry and CPR said that they go down the list in order of who signed up first, not by who paid their deposit first. This assumes you paid a deposit of course. The question is whether you will get a gold playfield or not.

Will be great if that's how they handle it, I have to be near the front of the original preorder list, but took a day or two to submit my deposit when they switched to the new system. I guess we'll see.

Nope. Some sort of update would be nice, now that they are several months late.

I'm at the end of the line for a CPR pf, got on the list late last month. They didn't even ask for a deposit, guessing I'll get a silver or bronze if I'm lucky. Wondering if I'm better off canceling and order a DP version, is it a noticeable difference between the two?

Anyone looking for a Sorcerer in the NY/LI area? Thinking it might be time to leave the club, looking to trade for something on my wishlist, +/- cash depending on condition/game. Fully working example, good cabinet & PF, perfect repro backglass.

I haven't heard anything on the CPR playfields. I'm guessing I was one of the first to sign up.

There must be an echo in here

Yeah, an echo of frustration waiting, and waiting, and waiting on this product...

Jeez, they already said they'll be ready to ship in a couple of weeks, you don't have to ask every two months.

So wish you were in Australia. Can't find one anywhere here worth buying.

I'm looking for the quad leg bolt plates and can’t seem to find any at the usual sights. Two of my top bolts are striped and I need replacements. Can someone point me in the right direction..

Thx in advance..

I have a cheap but decent backglass if anyone is interested. $25 plus shipping of your choice. About 30% of the art has delaminated, but it’s 99% complete, sealed with triple thick, and shows well. Local pickup available. PM me if interested.

***SOLD***

picking up a sorcerer this weekend. I plan to upgrade all the flippers mechs to WPC mechs. Anyone else done this?

I have not done this on sorcerer, the mechs in mine were pretty good. Replacing the ball guides to eliminate hop was key though.

I did the swap on Gorgar though which has the older style mechs and it was night and day.