(Topic ID: 28744)

All things Sorcerer thread


By trilogybeer

6 years ago



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There are 1756 posts in this topic. You are on page 30 of 36.
#1451 2 years ago
Quoted from TK2012:

My display board is getting flakey. Wondering if anyone has put in xpin displays? I was wondering about the xpin board # seeing the display board is different than my comet. Would like to order the right one.

A couple of guys in this thread have... https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/xpin™-would-like-to-see-your-games

#1452 2 years ago

If anyone on the west coast knows of a system 9 cabinet for sale, please let me know. My Sorcerer needs a new cabinet...

#1453 2 years ago
Quoted from vicjw66:

I did that and boy do I regret it. The originals look much better and the xpin didn't even bother to put the tail on the 6 or 9's. Looks bad.

LOL, ok personal preference I guess. I bought green ones for the Sorcerer and I love it. Also, no worries about them going out...

#1454 2 years ago

had a monster ball the other day after not turning on my Sorcerer for a week. It's nice to be called master once in a while. lol

#1455 2 years ago

i played a Sorcerer at the york show on friday. brought back some memories.

#1456 2 years ago

I've got a band new set of playfield plastics from Planetary Pinball that I won't be using.

Added 23 months ago: No longer available

1 month later
#1457 1 year ago

Hi everyone,

Just joined the Sorcerer club!

20171128_163903 (resized).jpg

One question for folks: I would assume finding a new / repro BG is pretty much impossible?

#1458 1 year ago
Quoted from comment23:

Hi everyone,
Just joined the Sorcerer club!

One question for folks: I would assume finding a new / repro BG is pretty much impossible?

Congrats on the game, love mine.

You can get a new back glass here - http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=PP&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-31-1316-532

#1460 1 year ago
Quoted from comment23:

Awesome, thanks!

It's super nice. Got my BG a few weeks ago.

20171109_155201 (resized).jpg
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#1461 1 year ago

On the other hand if you are looking for a repro playfield from CPR you have to be very very patient.

#1462 1 year ago

Hey guys, does anyone have the files of the insert graphics handy? I need to replace just a few after a mylar removal and before a clearcoat, and I have no access to a scanner.

Any help is appreciated!

Cheers
Scotty

IMG_3240 (resized).JPG

2 weeks later
#1463 1 year ago
Quoted from wizard_mode:

I ended up drilling new front leg holes to get the pf angle to aroun 8 deg.

Yep. Haven't thought of drilling new leg holes (not a bad idea!) but have always put older games up on blocks in back to speed up game play. I only recently found out that PinBot originally shipped with some sort of spacer blocks to raise the back higher; shortly after that Williams changed the location of the holes in front of the cabinet to make all games steeper.

#1464 1 year ago

Hi all,

I just bought a Sorcerer recently and Im having a really difficult time understanding how to navigate through the menu system. Im trying to type in the code so that the game will work on Freeplay. I have a copy of the game manual and Ive read it over a hundred times but Im still not getting it. Does anyone have a basic summary on how to navigate through the menu, in particular how to change the settings to three ball games and Freeplay?

Thanks!!

#1465 1 year ago
Quoted from SkillshotExhibit:

Hi all,
I just bought a Sorcerer recently and Im having a really difficult time understanding how to navigate through the menu system. Im trying to type in the code so that the game will work on Freeplay. I have a copy of the game manual and Ive read it over a hundred times but Im still not getting it. Does anyone have a basic summary on how to navigate through the menu, in particular how to change the settings to three ball games and Freeplay?
Thanks!!

Even though this if for BK (Sys7), it all still applies to Sorcerer:

#1466 1 year ago
Quoted from comment23:

Even though this if for BK (Sys7), it all still applies to Sorcerer:
» YouTube video

Thanks for the video post but the video does not give directions on how to put the game into Free play mode. Does anyone know how to put the game into Free play mode?

#1467 1 year ago
Quoted from SkillshotExhibit:

Thanks for the video post but the video does not give directions on how to put the game into Free play mode. Does anyone know how to put the game into Free play mode?

You have to set the max credits to zero I believe, something along those lines. I have it in my manual at home, if someone doesn't chime in before that.

#1468 1 year ago
Quoted from Kawydud:

You have to set the max credits to zero I believe

This is correct. You have to set adjustment no. 18, maximum credits, to 00. That enables free play. It's not specifically noted this way in the manual, but it works.
Balls per game is adjustment no. 30. Change that from 3 to 5 if you want 5 balls.

#1469 1 year ago

I've got an interesting issue to see if anyone has run across:

Issue: Super weak left flipper.

The link arm is attempting to get pulled into the coil, however it just cannot do so. If I assist it, it can be grabbed by the coil, but the magnetic field is so weak, I can easily pull it out while energized.

Steps taken to resolve:

1. New coil (with diodes), coil sleeve, coil stop, flipper bushing, spring.
2. New double stacked flipper switch (gapped properly)
3. Cleaned and confirm closed EOS when not energized.
4. Buffed/polished link, so no binding is occurring.
5. Measured voltage on lugs: 68 VDC.
5. Measured resistence on lugs on old & new coils: (Left & middle 4 ohm, middle & right 4 ohm, left & right 162 ohm). This is different than the right flipper coil's measurements on the left & right lugs (which is also around 4 ohm, not 162 ohm).

Some other potential thoughts:

1. Broken strands in wire?

I hope someone can tell me the stupid thing I'm not thinking about....

#1470 1 year ago
Quoted from comment23:

I've got an interesting issue to see if anyone has run across:
Issue: Super weak left flipper.
The link arm is attempting to get pulled into the coil, however it just cannot do so. If I assist it, it can be grabbed by the coil, but the magnetic field is so weak, I can easily pull it out while energized.
Steps taken to resolve:
1. New coil (with diodes), coil sleeve, coil stop, flipper bushing, spring.
2. New double stacked flipper switch (gapped properly)
3. Cleaned and confirm closed EOS when not energized.
4. Buffed/polished link, so no binding is occurring.
5. Measured voltage on lugs: 68 VDC.
5. Measured resistence on lugs on old & new coils: (Left & middle 4 ohm, middle & right 4 ohm, left & right 162 ohm). This is different than the right flipper coil's measurements on the left & right lugs (which is also around 4 ohm, not 162 ohm).
Some other potential thoughts:
1. Broken strands in wire?
I hope someone can tell me the stupid thing I'm not thinking about....

Were all of those repairs done after the issue started? Typically when you have a super weak flipper, it is because the coil isn't getting the voltage from the EOS. It is only getting the hold voltage winding, which is very weak.

#1471 1 year ago
Quoted from Kawydud:

Were all of those repairs done after the issue started? Typically when you have a super weak flipper, it is because the coil isn't getting the voltage from the EOS. It is only getting the hold voltage winding, which is very weak.

Yeah, prior to any restoration work on the pin, I always make sure everything is working. No issue with this flipper prior to that.

I had originally plan on just replacing the coil stop and coil sleeve, but just kept replacing parts that didn't look healthy or could possibly resolve the issue.

The EOS switch looks great and I can confirm continuity across the switch at rest. Perhaps the leads to the lugs?

#1472 1 year ago
Quoted from comment23:

Yeah, prior to any restoration work on the pin, I always make sure everything is working. No issue with this flipper prior to that.
I had originally plan on just replacing the coil stop and coil sleeve, but just kept replacing parts that didn't look healthy or could possibly resolve the issue.
The EOS switch looks great and I can confirm continuity across the switch at rest. Perhaps the leads to the lugs?

Something isn't giving it the power that it needs when called for, make sure there is power going to the EOS.

#1473 1 year ago

Checked the voltage on the EOS switch. Looks good.

Here's a quick video (sorry for the rotation issue):

#1474 1 year ago

Update:

I fixed it. But it was an odd problem....

My potential thought turned out to be correct. One of the piece of wires between the EOS switch and the coil lug was broken and shorted on many strands, causing the power to be severely diminished.

I replaced the wire and BINGO! Full power once again. Here's a pic of the mangled / internally broken wire:
20171227_135520 (resized).jpg

Thanks kawydud for being a sounding board!

#1475 1 year ago
Quoted from comment23:

Update:
I fixed it. But it was an odd problem....
My potential thought turned out to be correct. One of the piece of wires between the EOS switch and the coil lug was broken and shorted on many strands, causing the power to be severely diminished.
I replaced the wire and BINGO! Full power once again. Here's a pic of the mangled / internally broken wire:

Thanks kawydud for being a sounding board!

nice work, always cool to find the problem easily.

1 week later
#1476 1 year ago

Here's another question: Am I missing something from the diverter assembly?

Mine is seemingly floating in the right orbit.

1. I checked the Williams BLUE parts catalog and can't find this assembly.

Here's what the bottom of the diverter looks like under my PF:
20171226_165900 (resized).jpg

#1477 1 year ago
Quoted from comment23:

Here's another question: Am I missing something from the diverter assembly?
Mine is seemingly floating in the right orbit.
1. I checked the Williams BLUE parts catalog and can't find this assembly.
Here's what the bottom of the diverter looks like under my PF:

don't have mine opened up, but this picture looks just like what you have. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wanted-sorcerer-cabinet-stencils/page/8#post-1033285

#1478 1 year ago
Quoted from Kawydud:

don't have mine opened up, but this picture looks just like what you have. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wanted-sorcerer-cabinet-stencils/page/8#post-1033285

Ah Ok, thanks for finding. I went looking for photos, but couldn't find any. So, does the diverter actually "do anything"? It's not being controlled by anything?

#1479 1 year ago

Here's a pic of mine, which works just fine. Looks like you have the arm on your pivot attached at a 90' angle to how it should be.

100_3681 (resized).JPG

#1480 1 year ago
Quoted from jibmums:

Here's a pic of mine, which works just fine. Looks like you have the arm on your pivot attached at a 90' angle to how it should be.

Got it! That's probably the source of no tension. Since I couldn't find a schematic, I left it as it came. Thanks guys!

#1481 1 year ago

Does anyone have any idea when CPR might release a reproduction of the playfield? I know it is in the order que, but how long until it goes to production?

#1482 1 year ago
Quoted from uncivil_engineer:

Does anyone have any idea when CPR might release a reproduction of the playfield? I know it is in the order que, but how long until it goes to production?

I am curious too. Do not see much moving in the CPR cue.

#1483 1 year ago

Mike from CPR picked up my Sorcerer playfield to order the lenses just before xmas. Don't know if its being used for cnc as a donor. When I get it back it will get the last overlay to my own playfields. With the new hardtops coming out for pinball titles, i'm only doing new playfields. Restorations with direct ink ended over a year ago, & I only have a few more overlays to install to my playfields.

I'm blowing out the last playfields with overlays that have surface issues (EBD is another). Here is a Sorcerer with overlay installed for $200 US shipped to USA. It has some surface issues top corner (paint spatter white), & some minor depressions. When installed these areas will likely not be noticed. It will be a great replacement for any worn out playfield. There is a minor warp corner to corner (left top to bottom right shooter) which will likely not be noticed when populated, & is slightly bowed up in middle (wood rails will correct this). The overlay is cold laminated on top, no further protection is needed!

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#1484 1 year ago
Quoted from greatwichjohn:

Mike from CPR picked up my Sorcerer playfield to order the lenses just before xmas. Don't know if its being used for cnc as a donor. When I get it back it will get the last overlay to my own playfields. With the new hardtops coming out for pinball titles, i'm only doing new playfields. Restorations with direct ink ended over a year ago, & I only have a few more overlays to install to my playfields.
I'm blowing out the last playfields with overlays that have surface issues (EBD is another). Here is a Sorcerer with overlay installed for $200 US shipped to USA. It has some surface issues top corner (paint spatter white), & some minor depressions. When installed these areas will likely not be noticed. It will be a great replacement for any worn out playfield. There is a minor warp corner to corner (left top to bottom right shooter) which will likely not be noticed when populated, & is slightly bowed up in middle (wood rails will correct this). The overlay is cold laminated on top, no further protection is needed!

PM sent.

#1485 1 year ago
Quoted from Stokoloog:

I am curious too. Do not see much moving in the CPR cue.

Hope they do. I need one or possibly two.

#1486 1 year ago

PM received, but there is a guy ahead. Consider the playfield sold. From what I hear, CPR will be doing them in the future. I don't know a timeline.
Sold: Payment received.

#1487 1 year ago
Quoted from sethbenjamin:

Yep. Haven't thought of drilling new leg holes (not a bad idea!) but have always put older games up on blocks in back to speed up game play. I only recently found out that PinBot originally shipped with some sort of spacer blocks to raise the back higher; shortly after that Williams changed the location of the holes in front of the cabinet to make all games steeper.

I had my sorcerer set up right next to a BOP (only two pins I had at the time) and the fronts of the machines were different heights and it just bugged the heck out of me (OCD I know). So I went to work with a drill! Lol. It worked and it plays FAST!

#1488 1 year ago

If anyone on this thread is a tech-head with board/power issues, please take a look at this thread I started a while back. I am desperate for some help here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/system-9-sorcerer-troubles-stuttering-power#post-4159501
Thanks kindly

#1489 1 year ago
Quoted from greatwichjohn:

PM received, but there is a guy ahead. Consider the playfield sold. From what I hear, CPR will be doing them in the future. I don't know a timeline.
Sold: Payment received.

If you find another I’ll take it!

3 weeks later
#1490 1 year ago
Quoted from uncivil_engineer:

Does anyone have any idea when CPR might release a reproduction of the playfield? I know it is in the order que, but how long until it goes to production?

If you haven't already, be sure to sign up for the Sorcerer playfield preorder -- CPR will only run the playfields after they've collected enough orders:
http://www.classicplayfields.com/order.html

#1491 1 year ago

Has anyone tried burning the L2 MPU ROMs off of IPDB? I've burned and verified U19 and U20 but I keep getting a "7" on the LED, which means the CPU board is locking up.

If I drop the L1 chips back in, all is well.

#1492 1 year ago

Pinball Arcade just added Sorcerer. You can tell that it’s an accurate simulation just by looking at it—the center plastic is broken in the right spot!

Pinball Arcade broken plastic

#1493 1 year ago
Quoted from kyle5574:

Pinball Arcade just added Sorcerer. You can tell that it’s an accurate simulation just by looking at it—the center plastic is broken in the right spot!

Must be a clearcoated playfield as well, it plays snappy!

#1498 1 year ago

Fellow sorcerers
The counter for the 4th player recently went out on my board. Where would i get another one? I would prefer not to have to replace the whole set.

#1499 1 year ago
Quoted from Brent1955:

Fellow sorcerers
The counter for the 4th player recently went out on my board. Where would i get another one? I would prefer not to have to replace the whole set.

Big Daddy Enterprises usually has some of the originals in good working order. Just make sure you buy the 7 digit.

They may not show up on his site, it's best to email.

#1500 1 year ago

I have a brand new pair of sling plastics. They still have the protective film on them.
I also have other assorted original plastics if anyone's interested. PM me what you need and I'll shoot you an agreeable price

IMG_2427 (resized).JPG

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