(Topic ID: 28744)

All things Sorcerer thread

By trilogybeer

11 years ago


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  • 2,392 posts
  • 250 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 14 days ago by punkin
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There are 2,392 posts in this topic. You are on page 3 of 48.
#101 10 years ago

hey Ranhorton, I may be interested in a plastic. The middle plastic (above the "orcere" spot targets) is broken and the paint is chipping. How is the condition of your old one?

#102 10 years ago
Quoted from kyle5574:

I maybe overpaid, but I'd do it again.

Doesn't sound like you overpaid . 9/10 on backglass and cabinet and fully functional , playfields can be restored and 6/10 on a sorcerer playfield accually sounds better than average , (mine was about a 3/10 ) . I'll have close to $2,300 invested in mine when I'm finished and a ton of time . Sounds like you got the better deal . I do enjoy bringing games back to life though and this one is a keeper for me .

#103 10 years ago

I paid $1000 for mine fully working, playfield was decent compared to others i've seen, cabinet was a mess, backglass near perfect. I'll be in about as deep as trilogy, maybe more. Most expensive game in my collection and it's a pile of parts right now.

#104 10 years ago
Quoted from ktrain315:

hey Ranhorton, I may be interested in a plastic. The middle plastic (above the "orcere" spot targets) is broken and the paint is chipping. How is the condition of your old one?

They are in good shape.
Here's a post I did a while ago.

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-sorcerer-plastics

#105 10 years ago
Quoted from trilogybeer:

I got a drop target bank a while back from Korn , it was missing the flat bars on the backside that hold the targets in and I got those from Russ . When I started pulling the assembly apart so I could tumble the pieces I found that the plastic piece at the end of the coil plunger that resets the targets is broken .If you got one of those I do need one that isn't broken. If not Does anyone know where I can get one of those ?

Do you have a pic of what it generally looks like?
I'm not sure if I'm understanding your description.

#106 10 years ago

Do you have a pic of what it generally looks like?

This is a pic , but the more I look at it it seems as though it was replacement part that someone made . Sounds like Neo will have the part I need though I'm going to head over to his place and see soon . Also Ranhorton did you get the sling coil issue figured out? I know on more recent games they did away with the diode on the sling coils .

P1010694.JPGP1010694.JPG

#107 10 years ago

And on the cabinet tonight I got the bottom piece cleaned up and it came out real nice so its getting reused. I just sanded it with 320 grit sandpaper . so it's getting glued back in with the square dowels .

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#108 10 years ago

Changed the thread tittle again . Please feel free to add, post , question anything Sorcerer related here . Post your pics ,Sorcerer Rocks.

#109 10 years ago

I did get the sling coil issue resolved! Treveism came over last night for some pizza and beers and he helped me find the problem. Turns out I did fry the transistor when I soldered the diode on backwards. Stupid amature mistake. I would have never figured it out because for some reason the coil wasn't locking on during power up.
We removed and replaced the transistor and all is well with the world again!
Learned a lot from this little mishap.

I'm not recognizing that drop target piece but if you need the metal part that screws into the plunger and lifts all three targets I can send you my spare.

#110 10 years ago
Quoted from Ranhorton:

I'm not recognizing that drop target piece but if you need the metal part that screws into the plunger and lifts all three targets I can send you my spare.

Metal makes way more sense , the part that lifts all three targets is the one I need . The picture I posted was the piece that lifted the targets on the drop target bank I have(but it looks like a homemade piece, and I've never had this bank installed so not sure if it works I'm assuming it won't because the piece is broken and cracked) . I'll see if Neo has it first because he is close and I can just go over there some day and look , If not I'll PM about yours . Thank You.

#111 10 years ago

Update on my latest restorations of playfields, last one getting finish clear coats. The last 2 playfields are over a year turnaround. It should be 3 - 6 months.

#112 10 years ago

The bottom of my cabinet is looking nice .

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#113 10 years ago

Also painted my drop targets .

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#114 10 years ago

I never heard of painting drop targets.. what's that for?

#115 10 years ago
Quoted from trilogybeer:

Also painted my drop targets .

That is pretty spiffy! Did you airbrush those and put some black around the edges?

#116 10 years ago
Quoted from Kneissl:

I never heard of painting drop targets.. what's that for?

Just to make them look different . These were faded and looked pink, I think these will look better.

#117 10 years ago
Quoted from Billy16:

That is pretty spiffy! Did you airbrush those and put some black around the edges?

Yes , the pic I posted isn't too good , but I think they will look good in the game . They are accually first painted with a coat of gold metalic , and then a red candy over that , and then a black pearl around the edges . The look really cool when light hits them , so when the game is on and lit up they will sparkle and look really nice . Also these aren't the first drop targets that I've painted and the others that I've done have held up to the abuse that they get .

#118 10 years ago

I primed my cabinet , needs to be sanded and a few small spots will need a little more filler .

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#119 10 years ago

Looks really good! Keep up the good work.

#120 10 years ago

I'm stalled on cabinet work till i clear out the couple games in the garage.
I've been tinkering with bits for the playfield.

IMG_1106.jpgIMG_1106.jpg
mmm black skirts.

#121 10 years ago

post by post

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#122 10 years ago

Oooooh.
Looking good!

#123 10 years ago

Wow! Love the shine on the playfield. Very nice!

#124 10 years ago

Cabinet sanded , more filler work done , sealed, based and cleared . I clearcoart the base color This way any minor things that happen when stenciling the next two colors can be cleaned up with laquer thinner . This clearcoat will also get sanded before doing the stenciling .

P1010721.JPGP1010721.JPG P1010722.JPGP1010722.JPG P1010725.JPGP1010725.JPG

#125 10 years ago

Here's a picture of the front where I filled one of the holes , with clearcoat you can see that its nice and flat . Since I repaired this the way I did with the dowel and a thin coat of filler it won't shrink back . The clearcoat was sanded and I'm ready to stencil , I'll be doing this next week .

P1010739.JPGP1010739.JPG

#126 10 years ago

whoa, that's nice.

#127 10 years ago

I love it! My firepower and BK will look like that someday!

#128 10 years ago

Ok I got my first stencils in position and ready to be applied . I measured from the bottom of the cabinet to the outline line to get position correct I measure the front middle and back to make sure its level. I also measure the outline from the front and back to make sure its centered . I tape the whole stencil on , I don't remove the backing at this point .

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#129 10 years ago

Here's a pic of the stencil taped on . I want to have some tape holding it on near the middle because I will remove the backing from one side and apply one side and than do the other . I will not apply this stencil untill I'm ready to do the stenciling .

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#130 10 years ago

Just got my Sorcerer this weekend. This is a nice thread to learn from. Great look on the cabinet with that clear coat.

#131 10 years ago

i'm a week behind.. and glad I get to see how you do the stencils.

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#132 10 years ago
Quoted from Kneissl:

i'm a week behind.. and glad I get to see how you do the stencils.

Off Topic, Sorry.....

Did you do the modification on the handle of your HF lift? Love it! Can you provide more details?

#133 10 years ago

I had a guy weld some hinges and stop plates on the handle so it swings back 45deg. (so it reaches under the center of gravity) it will also fold forward and tuck neatly under a game.

IMG_0740.jpgIMG_0740.jpg

#134 10 years ago

I think that is the nicest looking mod of that table I've seen. There are pretty good ones, but this is probably the cleanest. Would you mind posting a list of parts and maybe show a different angle of the welds when you get the time? Nice job.

#135 10 years ago

Back to Sorcerer, does anyone know the differences between the L1 ROMs and the L2 ROMs?

And where is there a list of rules written up? I've seen plenty of rule sheets for other pins, but can't find anything on this one. The video game Pinball Hall of Fame: The Williams Collection goes over the rules really well and I was just wondering where they came up with the info.

I don't need the write-up, this is a pretty easy table to understand after a few plays, but I was curious why this table doesn't have this stuff readily available like others.

Just wondering for curiosity's sake.

#136 10 years ago

When I apply the stencil I peal back one half (leaving the other half taped in place) , front or back it doesn't matter here I did the front . Then I slowly remove the backing making sure the stencil stays on the transfer tape .

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#137 10 years ago

I cut the backing off and appy this half .I pull it tightly to keep it aligned but gently apply it then from the middle center I work my way out towards the end and up and down in sort of a C pattern with a bondo spreader .

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#138 10 years ago

Not much pressure is needed with speader , I want to avoid getting any wrinkles . air pockets are easily taken care of with a razor , I cut the transfer tape (not the stencil ) . Air pockets that are not near the areas geting stenciled will not be a problem . Once one half is done I peal back the second half and remove the backing and repeat the process .

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#139 10 years ago

Stencil is applied now I slowly remove the transfer tape making sure the stencil sticks to cabinet . When transfer tape is removed I mask of the areas not covered by the stencil that I don't want overspray to get onto .

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#140 10 years ago

The first color is yellow , Yellow does not cover good at all so I first do a light coat of gray primer ( white primer also works very good ) I apply my paint in light coats .

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#141 10 years ago

When I remove the stecil I may get jagged part of paint that are just floating there (not all paint types will leave these) . I remove them using masking tape , wraping around my hand Sticking it to these and rolling them off ( when paint is dry ) . Also when using automotive paint the stencil can leave a little glue residue ( reaction from paint and glue ) this is easily taken care of with a PPG product DX330 , this is a degreaser that I can spray on cabinet and remove the glue residue without removing the paint , this also cleans up any loose flaky paint that is there from removing stencil . If you are using Laquer you really won't need to do any of this that I just said .

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#142 10 years ago

The last pic up there is of a cleaned first color.

#143 10 years ago

Here's a pic of the head first color cleaned and ready for the second color.

P1010779.JPGP1010779.JPG

#144 10 years ago

Here's the front with both colors . I made my orange a little darker than the original orange , I know some people won't like it but I do . The orange is also metalic so at some angles it looks lighter and some darker .

P1010778.JPGP1010778.JPG

#145 10 years ago

This is how I aligned the second color ( this is for the head ) I made cuts around the corners and into to lines .

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#146 10 years ago

With these cutouts I was able to line up the second color.

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#147 10 years ago

Once stecil was applied I need to remake the line and mask off the areas I cut away using masking tape.

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#148 10 years ago

The second color came out great! Nicely aligned. I will next be clearcoating this head again.

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#149 10 years ago

I still need to do the second color on the sides of cabinet .

#150 10 years ago

Absolutely.
F-ing.
Beautiful!

Well done!
Can I hire you to redo my cab?

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