(Topic ID: 290648)

Wall Mount CD Jukebox recommendations?

By Richthofen

3 years ago


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  • 72 posts
  • 29 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 months ago by Richthofen
  • Topic is favorited by 12 Pinsiders

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    There are 72 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
    #51 2 years ago
    Quoted from Nepi23:

    It seems that most CD wall jukeboxes come without speakers.
    Can those wall jukeboxes be connected "easily" to home stereo system (with wires or with e.g. bluetooth) or are additional speakers absolutely needed?
    Any suggestions for cool speakers for a game room?
    Any models that have inbuilt speakers?
    Thanks for any info/comments!

    The easiest would be to use the home stereo as background music and run it thru the Jukebox. When the jukebox gets played, it overrides the background music. Depending on the Jukebox, this can be done with relays or a low level input from your stereo. Do some research and you'll come up with some ideas that will best fit your situation.

    #52 2 years ago

    Assuming that jukboxes just have old fashioned speaker out cables, you could use something like this to convert it to a 3.5 mm jack on the cheap, and simply plug that into the auxillary input on an old sound system of soundbar.

    https://www.amazon.com/Poyiccot-Plated-4-Screw-Terminal-Connectors/dp/B07PQTKMM7/ref=sr_1_3

    I have my Amazon dot plugged into a soundbar in a similar way.

    $8 all in... plus maybe the cost of a 3.5 mm cable extender.

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    #53 2 years ago

    Hello everyone again
    Have a Rowe AMI Saphire
    Does it matter which ones you hook your left and right speaker up to?
    And I have a sub I can use
    Which one is best to hook that one up to??

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    #54 2 years ago

    Find a manual to get a definite answer, but quick answer if I recall correctly...

    E1 is the ground. E7 is full wattage.
    E1 to E2 is minimal (maybe 2?) watts. The wattage basically doubles with each step up. E3 = 8w, E4 = 16, etc. Under normal circumstances, full wattage is more than you'll ever need.

    You're safe with 2 speakers (one for each channel) hooking up Negative to E1 and positive to E7 if you want... It'll be LOUD!

    For 2 speakers and a sub, I'd do E1 and E5 for the speakers, and try E5 - E5 for the sub. If it doesn't sound right, try E1 - E5 on either channel. Step it up one tap if it isn't loud enough. If I recall on some models there are overdrive indicator lights on the amp. It's ok if they blink a little when cranked, but step down the wattage if it's anymore than a slight blink.

    You can overdrive and blow the amp by hooking up too many speakers on too high a wattage.

    Under no circumstances use the 70V taps!

    1 week later
    #55 2 years ago

    I have worked in the coin-op business going on 40 years now and ran a lot of jukeboxes in that time. Semi-retired now but still run a few jukeboxes, all internet based for at least the last 10 years.

    With regard to what wall mount CD jukebox I would recommend I would go with NSM over all others and try to get one of the later models. Early ones like the firebirds can be harder to get some parts for. Rowes work OK but over time that rotating cage takes hell out of the CD's leaving them with fine scratches that sometimes make the CD or some tracks unreadable. Also the open cage allows dust, (sucked in by the fans), to settle on the CD's. I've lost count of the times I have sat in a location cleaning all 100 CD's because of a complaint that the jukebox was "skipping". I cannot remember a time I ever had to clean the CD's in an NSM or had to go to a location to undo a pile of CD's stacked on the player, some broken. In my experience NSM mechanisms are faster and treat the CD's better.

    Only downside to the NSM wall units is the title holder. It is slower than a Rowes and you have to be meticulous about putting the title strips, etc. in right or you will get jams. Older ones acting up usually need a thorough cleaning and careful SMALL applications of lubrication so the pages slide easily. Old hardened lubrication will bind enough that the computer will stop the mechanism and generate an error code.

    #56 2 years ago

    Anyone have any suggestions on a regular height to hang a AMI Rowe cd wall mount?
    I’m 6’2” and don’t want to hang it to high since most are shorter
    Any idea what a regular height it from the floor to the top of the jukebox???

    2 weeks later
    #57 2 years ago

    I haven’t dug into my Rowe CD100 wall mount
    But are there connections in it to make it Bluetooth compatible?
    And would that even work with the unit in the first place?

    #58 2 years ago

    ^^^Ed Fisher will know. https://www.cdadapter.com/ ^^^

    3 months later
    #59 1 year ago

    I wanted the audio for my Rowe Storm to go through the Sonos system that I have throughout the house.

    If anyone else is interested in doing the same, this overview may help. Let me know if you have any questions...

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/added-sonos-to-jukebox-pics-inside

    #60 1 year ago

    I have an NSM Emerald Ice. Display flickers. It will select a CD but won't play and puts it back. Any pointers? I'm an EM guy so this thing is a bit out of my wheelhouse.

    2 months later
    #61 1 year ago

    Ok
    Does anyone know where’s the button on a Rowe cd100w wall mount to rotate the cd basket to load up CDs?

    1 year later
    #62 4 months ago

    Finally pulled the trigger. This thing is in the back of my car waiting for a night where a friend can help me unload it. $300 on FB marketplace

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    #63 4 months ago
    Quoted from Richthofen:

    Finally pulled the trigger. This thing is in the back of my car waiting for a night where a friend can help me unload it. $300 on FB marketplace
    [quoted image]

    Looks great!

    Make sure to swing by some random estate/yard sales this summer to pick up some new CDs... Most everyone has them and they go for $1ish.

    1 week later
    #64 4 months ago

    Ok. Getting ready to hang this thing. Running into a problem:

    The bracket it comes with is shaped like an uppercase I, with several holes in the middle spine and 3 holes on either side of the bracket. The problem is, the wall I have the studs are 16 inches apart so I can't mount it across two studs. Given this unit is 175 lbs can I mount it directly in the middle of a stud running the length? The other issue is that it won't be center on the wall. Even more dangerously, what if I hung it with two carriage bolts not from the center but one hole over on the top/bottom?

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    #65 4 months ago

    When I did installs, we'd use a 18" x ?" piece of plywood painted black. Mount that to the wall, then mount the bracket to the plywood. You want to hit two studs if possible, but even if you can only grab one stud with several lag bolts, it worked good. Use toggle bolts, bolts & t-nuts or whatever for the rest of it.

    #66 4 months ago

    Being in the office furniture business back in the day, I personally would open up the drywall and brace properly. We would have to wall mount overhead bins and they get loaded heavy like these wall jukes.

    With that said, others have used Togglers but I wouldn’t trust them even with hitting a few studs.

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    #67 4 months ago

    I've used those togglers for mounting speakers to the wall. They seemed worked well, as in we never had a speaker fall! But you always try to hit at least one stud.

    #68 4 months ago

    The original bracket should be almost two feet wide. So you should be able to hit a couple studs.

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    #69 4 months ago

    The holes are not 16 inches apart at their furthest distance unfortunately.

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    #70 4 months ago
    Quoted from Richthofen:

    The holes are not 16 inches apart at their furthest distance unfortunately.
    [quoted image]

    Sorry my bad. I pulled that pic from the internet. I thought all these mounts were the same? My Emerald Ice came with the mount pictured here. It is 21.5" wide with extended tabs and oblong holes. This gives more attachment options. It's been mounted on two studs in my basement in the not too distant past.

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    #71 4 months ago

    Very nice! 175 pounds is some serious weight. I don’t know if this gives you any ideas but I did this for my Seeburg Consolette Wallbox. I wanted to hit both studs of this center column but I couldn’t. So I used two joist pieces of wood to span the studs and then hung the Wallbox from that. I glued and painted drywall corner beads to hide the end grain of the joists.

    I later added an outlet and audio cable behind it to hide the wires.

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    #72 4 months ago

    Ended up getting it on the wall. 5 lag bolts into two studs and 4 more wall anchors just to be safe.

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    There are 72 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.

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