(Topic ID: 312891)

Volume suddenly at maximum - WPC Hurricane

By rlbohon3

2 years ago


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  • 15 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by Crash
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#1 2 years ago

I'm working on a Williams Hurricane belonging to a cousin of mine. He's owned it for about a year or so and it's been working fine until recently. Quite often, the volume suddenly goes to maximum despite whatever the volume setting is. Looking at info on Pinwiki (https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Volume_Suddenly_at_Maximum), it points to some sound card components. Well, I installed the Hurricane sound card (ROMs and all) on my Getaway since it's basically the same sound card (different ROMs, and different rev). I tested it for a good 20 minutes and didn't experience the problem once. It just played Hurricane sounds on my Getaway. I haven't reinstalled the sound board back into Hurricane yet but what else could cause the erratic, sudden maximum volume problem other than something on the sound card? Could one of the cables or cable connections cause this? Could the MPU cause this?

Thanks,
Leebo

#2 2 years ago
Quoted from rlbohon3:

what else could cause the erratic, sudden maximum volume

What ever turns it up or down has an issue with it's wiring. Shorted or something.

LTG : )

#3 2 years ago

The sound is digitally controlled on WPC games. It's most likely an issue with the sound board. Perhaps a bad solder connection on whatever component of the board controls the volume.

I would start by replacing all the blue Philips capacitors. I say all because I can guarantee they are all bad. These are famous for causing sound board issues and poor quality audio.

#4 2 years ago
Quoted from Crash:

The sound is digitally controlled on WPC games. It's most likely an issue with the sound board. Perhaps a bad solder connection on whatever component of the board controls the volume.
I would start by replacing all the blue Philips capacitors. I say all because I can guarantee they are all bad. These are famous for causing sound board issues and poor quality audio.

Thanks @crash. I'll start w/ replacing the blue Philips caps and reflowing the header pins and even U5 (digital potentiometer). It just seemed strange that the problem didn't seem to follow the sound board when putting it in my Getaway, but I guess that doesn't totally rule it out (e.g. loose solder joint or flaky cap). I'm just wondering if something outside the sound board could cause the same behavior. Sounds like it's more likely something w/ the sound board itself though.

#5 2 years ago

Clean and exercise the remote volume control pot and see if that makes a difference.

#6 2 years ago
Quoted from JethroP:

Clean and exercise the remote volume control pot and see if that makes a difference.

WPC games use digital volume control buttons on the coin door.

#7 2 years ago

The problem is either in volume button wiring (is there any battery damage on CPU board?) or on the digital pot on sound board.

When the fault appears, open coin door, press either volume button and see if the setting is at max. If not, the digital pot is faulty. Since your sound board works fine in another game, suspect the wiring. Battery damage or bad connectors may cause the CPU to think volume up button is pressed.

Also check and clean the sound board ribbon cable connector.

#8 2 years ago

Thanks for the tips. Caps are ordered, so it will at least get those refreshed. Sounds like the ribbon cable connection could be related. When the sound goes loud, the volume setting is unchanged. I did notice that if I tapped one of the volume buttons to change the setting, the actual loudness would intermittently go from normal to full and back and forth. Again, not the setting… the actual loudness. Hoping it’s a loose connection. So if after swapping caps, reseating or replacing the ribbon cable, switches, the volume digital pot is next on the list. Actually, I’m sorta hoping for a combo meal here with the caps in case any are related to sound quality. The sound on this game has been a little weak in my opinion.

#9 2 years ago

One other thing to note, the sound can be controlled by either a pots or digitally using the buttons. There is something on one of the boards that you can jump or unjump to change which one is used. I was having trouble with my pots, so I changed to digital and it's been working perfect ever since.

#10 2 years ago

I'm 99% sure your issue comes from u5, the digital potentiometer that digitally increases / decreases volume. Check this post for more information.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wpc-sound-board-help-please-#post-6212072

It's a simple 8 pin chip. Once you removed it,you should install a socket.

#11 2 years ago
Quoted from jaytrem:

One other thing to note, the sound can be controlled by either a pots or digitally using the buttons. There is something on one of the boards that you can jump or unjump to change which one is used. I was having trouble with my pots, so I changed to digital and it's been working perfect ever since.

What he is referring to here is jumper w9. In the post I linked, you see the schematic and w9 is used to either use the digital potentiometer that is on board, or to use an external one plugged in j507.

#12 2 years ago
Quoted from Roamin:

I'm 99% sure your issue comes from u5, the digital potentiometer that digitally increases / decreases volume. Check this post for more information.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wpc-sound-board-help-please-#post-6212072
It's a simple 8 pin chip. Once you removed it,you should install a socket.

Thanks for the tip! Since the problem didn't follow the board when I installed it in another game, I'm going to check the cable/cable connection first, then try the digital pot and caps.

Quoted from Roamin:

What he is referring to here is jumper w9. In the post I linked, you see the schematic and w9 is used to either use the digital potentiometer that is on board, or to use an external one plugged in j507.

Got it. Thanks! Very helpful.

2 weeks later
#13 1 year ago

Just wanted to follow up with this thread. The issue seems to be fixed! The digital pot at U5 was the culprit. Prior to removing the chip and installing a socket (and replacement chip), I installed new caps and a new ribbon cable. They didn't fix or change anything that I was able to notice. Eventually changing out U5 is what solved the problem. One thing I don't understand is that while troubleshooting, at one point I installed this board w/ the original U5 chip in my Getaway and the problem did not seem to follow the board. Putting the board back in Hurricane and the problem returned. It was after that board-swap test that I replaced the U5 chip. Not sure why the problem didn't show itself while in Getaway. Nonetheless, it's working good now and wanted to thank everyone for their help with this.
2AEDC144-95C5-471E-81FF-1CA82F22D877 (resized).jpeg2AEDC144-95C5-471E-81FF-1CA82F22D877 (resized).jpeg

#14 1 year ago

Congrats on getting it working!

Thanks for the followup, always nice to see someone take the time to let everyone know what worked.

#15 1 year ago

I bet the issue was either a flaky pot IC or mechanical disturbance when moving the boards. Either one would suggest a failing pot. Good news!

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