The cabinet has had the final reworks and final clear application.There is a little detail left to do like blacking out the neck of the lower and finishing the floor with a light overspray where appropriate.
First the cabinet was sanded with a soft interface pad and 800 grit sand paper.
After that it was masked so I could tighten up the magenta color in both the bordering and the shade.I wanted a reddish base but a little more on the purple side of it.

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The other corrections were made where needed.

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Now unmasked and with the backglass in the background for comparision.My ultimate goal is to pull the cabinet close to the backlass in color but also bridge the gap between the contrast of the cabinet and the playfield.
To explain ....The cabinet has a purple and pink like scheme,the backglass is much more of a magenta and the playfield has none of the pink nor magenta it is red and purple based.
The effort put in helps make everything work better together as a total package.
It is ready for the final matte clear at this point.

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Final matte clear is applied.
Matte clear is the standard full gloss clear but with an additive that flattens it out.How much depends on the ratios used of full gloss clear to matte clear.
I like to go with a nice gloss that is lower than full but just a little more than semi so it is not gloss but has a sheen and muted reflection.
At this point the clear is not dry but after 16-24 hours will be at it's desired gloss level.

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No I use felt trimmed behind the legs on this era.

Felt on painted cabinets, the newer Stern protectors on decaled cabinets.The plastic ones specifically on WPC-95 cabinets and the metal or plastic ones on WPC cabinets.
Reason being that the rear leg locations on WPC-95 games are lower and so the protectors hang off the edge about a 1/4 of an inch .When using the plastic Stern protectors you can easily shave them down.When using the metal ones you have to grind them.

It is more than that but depends on a lot of different factors so the true cost is rarely known until all is said and done.

Urethane based primer,paints and clears.All automotive and catalyzed which means there is a hardner and/or a reducer added to each one.This is insures that products are chemically reacted so they dry quickly and completely unlike one part components found in spray cans or other oil and water based paint products .

I just could not get comfortable with my red color choice so I hit it one more time.The third time was a charm in this case.
What a pain to mask and match!
I was able to add a little more detail into the stencil work and further tighten up some line and perfect the surface so it was a blessing in disguise I suppose.

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Now unmasked . The neck was blacked out and the final matte clear was applied once more.Three nice coats this time around.
Small accents added to the stencil since these are supposed to be feathers.
I did leave the hearts and drops of blood the redder shade.It is subtle but works well.

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Head and lower should be ready to rebuild in the next day or so.

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Final on the cabinet.Now on to other things like polishing the hardware so I can get it back together..

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I used the original cabinet .There are two Voltans here one is very rough so I pulled it out for reference as the project evolves. .

Some parts by hand,others in tumblers,ultrasonic cleaners,nickel plating and on and on.
Basically I just look at each part,the condition of it,it's purpose and location and try to figure out the best method.

Part 9 is up now and begins the cabinet stenciling process.As can be seen from the pictures and post there is much more to come on this subject from where this video leaves off.All documented and in the process of being put up there also..

Yes that was done a few different times during the process.

Part 10 is now up.Deals with the color and stencil corrections.

The metal plate on the bottom is cleaned up nicely.
The bracing for the cash box is back in place and I have done what I could with the floor.

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Now the cabinet is in the rebuild area.

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Thanks!
On the nail holes.Once the cabinet is primed,painted and cleared numerous times they are very tight.Additionally the replacement nails are a bit longer.I will be getting into the nails during the rebuild.
I am always in my workout clothes.They are the best work clothes in the world.Nice and comfy,easy to move around in.

Now back to the playfield.
After the clear settles in a few days the surface cracks and masking edges pop up.
At this point it is then sanded aggressively again and prepped for the next round of repaints.
The first thing I want to do on this round is tighten up the previously roughed in areas that were bare wood and painted by hand.I address the purple first.

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I missed taking a picture of the orange I masked and repainted because it was so tedious by the time it was ready to spray I had filmed it but forgot the still picture.
Anyway orange was painted as needed or as could be done well then I moved to the wood tones.all this was well documented in video and will be put up once I get a chance to .
All natural woodgrain was saved and enhanced with the rework while the ground in dirt and cracking was eliminated..

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The playfield is about ready to clear once again in the following pictures.These highlight the work to date including the orange and some closing in of the insert borders although the black work still truly lies ahead.

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Now the third clear application is in place.

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I will let this clear application set a few days and work on other aspects of the restore plus my other projects of course.

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Part 11 is up now and gets more in depth into the playfield restore.

Part 12 is up and continues the playfield restore process with things like painting wood tones and another application of clear.

Christopher Hutchins

Glad to hear it .I am going to try to document the best I can exactly what goes into this even if it takes 50 videos.