Part 4 video is up.Deals with teardown and cabinet evaluation as well as the general plan of attack.Part 5 is editing and will be up shortly.That will deal with stripping and repairing the cabinet.
Part 4 video is up.Deals with teardown and cabinet evaluation as well as the general plan of attack.Part 5 is editing and will be up shortly.That will deal with stripping and repairing the cabinet.
Quoted from vid1900:Chris, do you scan those obscure playfields before you begin working on them?
No I don't have a scanner and I am not really computer savvy .Everything I do is all manual labor stuff.
Part 5 is up and it starts to get a bit more interesting. Really tough to capture a 200 hour plus restore in a series of 10 minute or less videos without missing something here and there or having 200 parts but hopefully it covers some basics and at least shows a decent evolution of the project as it takes place.
I will be very interested to see how Chris deals with the dark "tinge" associated with the playfield. Is this just sanding the top coat off to get back to white as I do on my classic Bally's. We will see...
From that point the shooter lane was sanded and shaped then some rough hand touch ups were done to the most obvious wear in an effort to make somewhat of a blueprint and base to work off of for the more detailed repaints to come. These touch ups are not meant to be exact just something that is better than bare wood sealed under the first clear .
IMG_7746.JPG IMG_7720.JPG IMG_7747.JPGThe clear is applied and still wet when these pictures are taken.
This first clear will seal the loose paint and wood fibers,help fill various low spots and wear.Start leveling inserts and more importantly give a more durable surface to sand tape and paint on.
As soon as I saw the woman on the playfield I knew this was Dave Christensen. I restored those same tits on my Nitro Ground Shaker.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Part 5 is up and it starts to get a bit more interesting. Really tough to capture a 200 hour plus restore in a series of 10 minute or less videos without missing something here and there or having 200 parts but hopefully it covers some basics and at least shows a decent evolution of the project as it takes place.
» YouTube video
Chris - this is great.
What is the best way to knock out the front wooden brackets from the cabinet bottom? In particular, I'm talking about the ones inside the coin door that would surround the coin box.
Quoted from bayoubilly70:Chris - this is great.
What is the best way to knock out the front wooden brackets from the cabinet bottom? In particular, I'm talking about the ones inside the coin door that would surround the coin box.
Pull the nails out of the bottom where the metal plate is.After all the nails are out a light tap on the side breaks them free from the floor.After that tap a putty knife between the center brace/cash box divider and the pry it forward..
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Pull the nails out of the bottom where the metal plate is.After all the nails are out a light tap on the side breaks them free from the floor.After that tap a putty knife between the center brace/cash box divider and the pry it forward..
Thanks Chris!
Everything is prepped for the base coat of white and the speckling pattern to follow that.Once in place that will be cleared to seal it off from the future stencil work since the speckling is kind of a one shot deal and hard to perfectly duplicate in small spots should there be an issue of color leakage during stenciling.
145.JPG 143.JPGNow for the next thing I felt would be tedious.Masking and refinishing the yellow.
Then the white in the GI areas.I didn't do it on the interior of the playfield because I think the aged skulls look more correct than bright white ones then on top of that the banners and areas with fine detail and lettering would be tough to improve unless they really needed it.White has a tendency to look like it is floating or 3 D if there are a lot of little details to be cut out of the masked areas.
167.JPG 168.JPGQuoted from High_End_Pins:Back to the playfield.
It is sanded and prepped for the first true round of repaints.
Red first.
Masking the capes off on the lower was a chore as expected but worth the effort.158.JPG 415 KB
160.JPG 267 KB
161.JPG 215 KB
165.JPG 412 KB
Chris, What do you use to tape off with ? Frisket ? It is clear over parts you are not painting ?
Quoted from Classic_Stern:Chris, What do you use to tape off with ? Frisket ? It is clear over parts you are not painting ?
A material like frisket.Will be covered in the videos once updated.
Really hope you'll be covering what you're doing with the inserts in a little detail.
Can't wait to catch up on this awesome thread!
Second color is done and it is umasked.
I went with a little redder shade for the magenta and a more vivid shade for the purple.
Some of the colors are hard to get a lot of pop out of if you try to do an exact match they can look washed out.That is mostly because I use an auto base and they could have used a lot of different types of paint at that time.
Now for the worst part.That is the front.The front stencil is terribly incomplete and off badly on one side so it is used only as a loose guide to recreate the art.
The purple stencil for the front was probably the worst attempt of making a stencil I have seen.It was missing entire sections.Not sure if they just weeded it wrong or what but if I did not have a large arsenal of tools and a skill set that deals with this type of thing daily they would simply be unusable.
Never paid too much attention to this game before, but it has an incredible lower playfield. Those skeletons in Admirals' coats are awesome. I love that you chose to leave them looking aged.
Impressive work, as always!
Part 7 is up now and continues the cabinet restoration.There is some info in there .Tough to make a true how to video out of any of these projects because the work has to take place without worrying about what we can capture or missed along the way but each time I try to give something up here and there that might not have been covered previously or shed some insight to the thought process.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Now for the worst part.That is the front.The front stencil is terribly incomplete and off badly on one side so it is used only as a loose guide to recreate the art.The purple stencil for the front was probably the worst attempt of making a stencil I have seen.It was missing entire sections.Not sure if they just weeded it wrong or what but if I did not have a large arsenal of tools and a skill set that deals with this type of thing daily they would simply be unusable.
Earlier in the thread Classic Arcades was mentioned. Did you use this stencil? I have ordered some of theirs in the past, never again. Similar to your experience, the ones I ordered had significant errors - places where the artwork was completely missing. Had to return the stencils, and that was a several month ordeal as well.
Quoted from pinplayer01:Earlier in the thread Classic Arcades was mentioned. Did you use this stencil? I have ordered some of theirs in the past, never again. Similar to your experience, the ones I ordered had significant errors - places where the artwork was completely missing. Had to return the stencils, and that was a several month ordeal as well.
Yes.The only game in town on these right now.The vendor can be hit and miss but these are definitely a miss on the front and head but well done on the sides.
With only 365 potential sales to be made on these particular stencils maybe accuracy isn't important to them but it is frustrating.
I can't/don't complain I just make them right manually but could see where it would piss people off..No time for that nonsense over here the show must go on.
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