I asked Robin about this a year ago. he said no as they aren't real machines.

Here's a couple picks of my machine and a video of it in action.

Here is a link to my buid as well. - http://www.hyperspin-fe.com/forum/showthread.php?18220-Hot-Rodding-Pinball-cabinet-build-%2846-32-19%29

Not sure how this site feels about links to other sites but I'm pretty proud of my most recent releases on one of the main VP sites I'll respect pinside and wont post links though.

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Glad you are having fun with it.

To get Daft Punk you have to spell daft punk 2 times. First time it lights the extra ball. Second time it preps Daft Punk MB. In order to start it you will have to shoot the scoop.

I haven't done it on the recreation yet but I did get there on my buddies machine a couple weeks ago. Maybe he will post the video as it's kind of funny as I didn't even realize I was in Daft Punk. LOL!

Have you played on the Direct X9 version? Flippers seem to be a lot better on them. Not perfect but much better.

Those are sweet. Give my Tron table a try and let me know what you think Can be found on VPuniverse.

That's odd. You sure you've played VP9X version 7 plus? VP921 still has the same flipper problems but DX9 is much improved. I have zero issues hitting anything I want on the table. Center shots are simple as well and can be hit from either flipper (right flipper is tight but it's supposed to be). I've played a crap load out of real Tron's recently and they seemed to play real close to the recreation as well. Still wont ever say it's exactly the same but with Direct X9 version I no longer spend my time getting ticked because I can't hit what I'm shooting for. I've tweaked it a bit more than my released version though as it needed it with the new VP versions. If you'd like to give it a shot I'll share with you. I stopped releasing updates to it as I was just playing with personal preference things and not bug fixes now.

It's on vp forums. Several versions all linked to the first page of the thread. Pm me your email and I'll save you some time and send you the file and table.

double post

Those tables are the future pinball versions if they are at pinsimdb.

Here is my version:
http://vpuniverse.com/forums/files/file/2624-tron-le-stern-201185vett/

I also have an avatar table too.
http://vpuniverse.com/forums/files/file/2565-avatar-stern-2010-85vett/

stupid phone... double post again.

Search out DFWarcade on the hyperpin forum. He does custom work. He helped me design and make the art on my cab.

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Markmon - Glad you gave it a try. It really is much better. As for items 1 and 2, that is why I said I would share my versions with you The one you got (since you didn't get it direct from me) was set up for the reg VP. When going to DX9 several things have to be changed to get it to play right again which you noticed already and sounds like you updated already.

Figured this would be a good place to post this. Looks like someone is taking on the project of revamping the whole physics engine for VP. Should be interesting to see how it pans out.

http://www.vpforums.org/index.php?showtopic=27416

Depends on who you are. I don't get much love over there. All good though, I just release my tables at VPuniverse whom is more than happy to have me there

I've met some really nice people on both sites as well as some real pricks on both sites. Reminds me of another site I know of. Good and bad apples everywhere.

I think that is the biggest problem. I have well over 150 tables on mine but I really only play about 20 or so. I got caught up in the, "must have everything" phase. Now I'm going back to just having a dozen or so active at a time.

Check out VPforums.org and VPuniverse.com. Both are great resources for assistance and tables. I spend most of my VP time at VPuniverse.com.

Good call.

Questions are better at VPforums.

Material is better at VPuniverse.

No problem.

Here is a good guide for installing VP. - http://www.maaca.org/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=5886

For hyperpin - download it here - http://www.hyperspin-fe.com/forum/downloads.php?do=file&id=4681 The readme file tells you how to set things up.

For hyperpin, I would say the absolute easist way to install it would be to:
- First make sure you can run tables via Visual Pinball by itself.
- Install hyperpin - see link above
- Open the hyperpin editor (in the hyperpin folder once installed)
- Copy the name of the table in the visual pinball tables folder
- Paste it into the second box for the table name. The first box is the name that will show up on the wheel
- Paste the same name in the backglass and Playfield image lines.
- click the add table button
- do this for all your tables
- save the file

This will get you started. For adding backglass images and table images I just open the table via hyperpin and press 'o' for the playfield screenshot and 'u' for the backglass screenshot. This automatically places them in the correct folder and names them correctly.

You can do a lot more, like adding wheel images and Playfield video's but lets get you started first before complicating things.

If you get stuck and need help, make a post at VPuniverse and shoot me an PM over there and I'll help out as much as I can. I don't use VPforums anymore thus why I say VPuniverse.

Screen would be tilted back for the flashers. With a good TV it doesn't impact the view much. On mine it barley makes a difference (46 inch LED). There are good arguments both ways on that approach but if you plan to put flashers in then it is necessary.

I hear hyperpin 2.0 is pretty cool. Not launched yet but I know someone whom's tested it and thought it was great.

OP - Older tables will have that "flat" look to them as all the images are on ramps and walls. The newer tables are now being built with 3d models that gives the PF a much better depth of view. Still not as good as FP but much better. One thing you can do is adjust the "Z" value. Doing this creates a moch sense of depth to the PF. In full screen it wont ever look as good as the desktop views get with VP. At least in VP9.

I'm perfectly happy with my cab and it has a sunken monitor with flashers. I've played several cabs that are flat with the glass and do/don't have flashers. The ones that are flat with the glass look the same as my cab and I do, very much, miss the flashers on cabs that are missing them.

Get a good viewing angle TV and it's fine. Plus, angle the cab too. I have my cab sitting like a real pinball machine with the back of the cab higher than the front. Again, now distortion at all in my viewing angle.

To reiterate the pop bumpers as well. Changing your TV's viewing angle will not change the way items on the PF look in aspect to their level of 3d. Newer tables using 3D models look much better but that is one of the drawback of the full screen VP tables is the depth of view. The desktop view looks great but the full screen flattens everything for some reason. If they could get the desktop depth of view into the full screen view VP would be MUCH better.

I promise you, there is no change in the depth of view look of a VP table when you change the viewing angle of the TV. It's just projecting an image to the screen. Try an experiment - Go watch your TV right now. Now walk back and forth around your TV. Can you see more behind a person when you move left or right vs straight on? Nope.....

FP is different with BAM as it is basically changing your viewing angle based off your head not to mention the fact it's built in 3d models. Depth of view is great with FP. Physics and game play sucks in FP though.

The 3-4 inch difference of having the TV flat against the glass or recessed is way overhyped. Ya'll had me questioning myself so I turn on my cab and instead of standing at the foot of the game I got a ladder and stood on top of it while leaning over the TV. Yup, no change in the depth of view.

Then why don't you all sink the front of your monitor in. Wouldn't that flatten things out for the viewing angle even more? Ya'll are arguing about 2-3 inches of change. IT"S NOT THAT BIG OF A DIFFERENCE. You like it flat against the glass, that is fine and dandy, but don't try to support it by making up facts. The fact is that if you have a decent TV the difference between flat against the glass and sunk in the back a couple of inches is just about zero. There is ZERO change in depth of view, period... You can not debate that. A TV projects an image on a screen. That image does not change based off where you are viewing it from. The resolution will change based off angle, but the difference is negligible. If you don't go cheap and get a good TV, that difference is even less.

Here is a table that I am working on now. The camera is head height and about 3 feet behind me (which makes that viewing angle much worse). Dang near no difference from the front to the back, from the players perspective there is zero difference.

I don't know, how about because it's fun... VP pinball is not real pinball so let's not try to compare real aspects of a pinball machine to a VP game. You should ask all the people at TPF that played the games with and the ones without force feedback/flashers and see which they preferred. It's a matter of fun and having those flashers going off makes you feel like you are more engaged in the game. Making this argument would be the same as making an argument that people shouldn't mod their real machines. For instance, what's the point of a topper. Doesn't effect the game, some just think they look good. How about mirror blades, interactive backboxes, speaker lights, undercab lighting, etc... None of those effect what happens where the ball is at but for some it makes the game more fun.

Damn right... But what you are all failing to mention is with a flat screen or a sunk one you still are viewing the TV at an angle. You are talking about a couple of degree's difference.

Yup, I watch my primary TV from behind. It has that good of a viewing angle.

I'm done arguing this point here as it's a dumb argument in the first place. Ya'll are trying to make it seem like a flat screen is a view from direct on and a sunk monitor is being viewed at 90 degrees. If it makes ya'll feel better so be it. Measuring my cab my screen is laying at 8.7 degree's. Measuring the same on the glass is 11.4 degrees. That is less than 3 degree of change in viewing angle. Now go do a test, stand in front of your TV, now take one small step to the left (that is going to change the angle by more than 3 degrees). How much was your view effected. If you are being honest, that change is nothing or so little it proves this argument is stupid.

Heretic_9 - Do yourself a major favor and research these on here as well as some dedicated forums to them. The oppinions here will be skewed towards them being pointless while the oppinions on the VP forums will be skewed towards them being the greatest thing since sliced bread. The truth is in the middle. Here are a few sites you should look at:
http://www.hyperspin-fe.com/forum/showthread.php?2255-Announcing-HyperPin-Digital-Pinball-Frontend
http://www.vpforums.org/
http://vpuniverse.com/index.php/index.html

Buying resource sites:
http://virtuapin.net/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=9
http://www.virtualpinballmachinesrus.com/

In summary though. If you are even considering looking at them as a replacement for a real machine you will be extremely disappointed. If you are looking at them for being a fun video game type experience then you will be very please. It depends on what you are looking for on how much you will enjoy them. With cabs you get what you pay for. Cheap cap will equal poor viewing angles on the TV and performance issues during the games. More expensive cabs wont have that problem but it does cost more $$$. If you are getting a cab you should at min get the force feedback. This is what has the shaker motors and contactors (simulates the coils sound and feel). Makes a big difference in the experience of playing. There is debate (obviously from the above) on the flashers. Some love them while some hate them. If at all possible try to play a nice cab before spending the money as that will help with disappointment due to over expectations.

Also take special note that all tables (the ones in VP itself, not the cab) are not created equally. Authors build these things for free and some are better at it than others as it relates to look and feel of a table.

Lastly, cabs being pre-bought are stupid expensive. If you have some basic skills and a willingness to learn look at making one. You could easily save half the cost. If not, the pre-built ones are nice. You will just be paying for that convenience.

I can't believe we are still arguing over 3 degrees of viewing angle. I'm sorry some people are cheap and get low grade TV's. Buy a good TV and you will see there is no difference between the 3 degree difference the TV is at when it is dropped 3 inches in back.

Here are pics showing the TV angle. It's 2.4 degrees. If that small of a difference makes a "huge" difference I would say your TV is crap.

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I really wouldn't care but there are people that read this thread that are trying to learn about VP and I can't stand it when skewed info is spouted out as being the end all being facts. Yeah, there is a difference if you buy a low grade TV. If you get a good TV with a good viewing angle then you wont notice that small difference. My PF TV is 46". The colors are the same whether I am standing at the front of my cab or standing on a step stool setting up my camera to take a test video which changes the angle by a lot more than 3 degrees.

Seriously though. I posed a challenge and nobody has been able to honestly say that they noticed this difference. Stand in front of your LCD/LED TV and move the equivalent of 3 degrees to the left or right. Did you notice a "huge" difference? I bet you didn't notice one at all. I'm not saying that on your specific cab there is not a difference. But what I am saying is that you can not sit there and tell everyone that you have to make that TV flat with the glass or you will get distortion, bad colors, etc as that is not a statement of fact unless they are buying the same exact equipment as you.

If this is such a huge issue then get a small TV for a small cab and build it the size of a zizzle. Then you will be standing over the TV more and can get away with a cheaper TV.

Quite funny that you call out him for being an asshole for making a statement of timelines a cab is being built (never talking about quality) but you also don't call out markmon for being an asshole when he called the builder of boogies cab an "idiot" (he built all his own cabs). Is our opinion jaded just a bit? I think so....

Now if we really want to talk about people not being real nice, I can start providing examples of shady *(&^ that people, even in this thread and argument have done to me personally. All this BS is one of the MAIN reason's I've stopped building tables for the community. Yeah, you have the handful of grateful people but the people that get up in the morning just to whine, bitch and complain take away from the enjoyment of spending hundreds of hours making them.

Really....

So a sunken monitor it like sitting against the exit door against the wall but a flat monitor is like being in the middle of the theater? It's this type of statement that makes it hard to even consider the opinion.

let's put into real perspective.

A VP cab in general is like sitting in the front row on the far left side of a theater. The seats are numbered 1-10 in the left row. You are there with 2 friends. One friend is sitting in seat 1 and you are sitting in seat 3. Does your friend want to switch seats with you because your viewing angle is that much better?

In this example you have to assume the theater is a TV. Figured that would be obvious but wanted to call that out.

I think I'm done now with this as this is a dumb argument to be having. The above should give passer by readers a better understanding of the argument as the one that is being presented is skewed very much to be like your friend is sitting in seat 1 and the (unsunken monitor) is sitting in the middle of the room. This would make a difference but that's not exactly the case now is it....

shakenbake - What version of VP are your cabs running on right now? I'm assuming VP9.9 since physmod was a beta build and VP10 is not finished yet. If that is the case then those that feel they play great now are going to be blown away with how much better VP10 plays. The flipper accuracy is SO MUCH better and the integrated ball spin really adds a lot to the game if done right.

You need one of these to convert buttons into key strokes. - http://www.ultimarc.com/ipac1.html

Just make a simple rig to hold the TV's and you are good. I've seen some people make a lower cab for the tv and buttons and then just mount another tv to the wall. Your imagination can lead you on how detailed you want to go.

Cheapest would be to find a trashed game or a used cab and just move all your stuff over to it.

Oh no, Fren has found his way to pinside.

Welcome to the forum

Yes, you can change the ball size but the problem with doing so is the table may not play right (balls getting stuck if you go larger or switches not getting hit if you go smaller). In other words, you don't want to do this for visual purposes.

Brightness and contrast will be TV specific as well as personal preference. I believe my brightness is at 50-55 and my contrast is at 90. The LED backlight is at 10-12. Can't recall the figures 100% but those should be close for my 46" samsung LED tv.

I adjusted all 3 TV's to different settings.

PF - needed more contrast to keep the picture clear due to the angle
BG - I used more color and a bit brighter to bring out the colors of the BG. It also helped with the rendered backlighting that is in the active backglasses.
Scoreboard (DMD) - I use a TV for this. I made it pretty dark so that it looks more like a real DMD. Basically made it dark to the point that the black portion actually looked black and not grey.

I should call out that I'm using LED tvs for all of my monitors so that effects the settings a bit.

My color is 75-80. Don't recall the exact numbers but I generally keep it in this range as it seems like when I go past that the colors start to get to deep.

My backlight is higher on the BG than the PF. It's going to all be personal preference. I'd recommend that you play around with it and see what matches your eye the best.

Check the details in the video as it has a list of everything in mine. Granted my PC was probably a bit overdone.

Ain't that the truth!

Yes. A couple of things mainly.

- I would have gone with 5 RGB's instead of just 3. All the DOF configs use 5 so you really have to customize them to make them work right with just 3.
- I would have mounted the DMD tv in a fashion that would have allowed it to stay in place to put the head down. Now I have to remove it to do this.
- As much as it pains me to say this I would have built it a bit smaller. I LOVE the 46" TV for the PF and the 32" for the BG but the problem is that the cab is to big to fit through a door. Now, if I need/want to move it to another room I have to take the head completely off in order for it to fit through the door. This is the main reason why I don't take it to shows as it is a major PITA to get out of my house.
- Skip the gear motor. It's fairly cool but I find myself turning it off in nearly all instances outside of the MM castle gate.

it's really not to hard if you have a good diaghram. There are several available but if you get stuck just ask and there is always someone that's been there that can help. I personally found this forum here - http://www.hyperspin-fe.com/ to be a lot better than VPF as it related to the cab build process. VPF is better for software based questions.

Does this mean I should trash the version I did?
http://vpuniverse.com/forums/topic/1714-metallica-release-date/

It is fully complete and fully tested out (PM5). Only waiting on it to go out of production to release.

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No hard feelings at all. I just didn't want to jumble things up.

I hear you on the direction. You have to do what you think is fun. Not much sense in making tables that you would never play. If we got paid for it that would be one thing but doing this all for free means you gotta have fun. The BS drama is what made me hang up my hat as well. That and the fact there aren't any tables out there that I would want on my cab that aren't already out there as a nice version.

Do you have the head working yet? If not, let me know and I'll send you my latest version so you can use my scripting as a start. I've got it to where it even wiggles when you nudge

LOL. Would love to but have just been burnt way to many times with "testers" sharing the files and even some trying to release tables as their own.

On a side note that is some what related to that subject. - One thing that made me feel really good about building tables was the times people have contacted me saying that they bought ____ machine because of the fun they had playing it in VP. Ironically enough this just happened again with one of my testers it's also why I want an x-men so bad now too.

Yes. It is VP9. It is based out of Physmod 5. Can be easily converted to 9.9 though for those not interesting in PM5 (PM5 plays so much better though).

I'm not real sure. Thought it was right around the corned and then Stern announced more prem. I'm guessing it's getting close though.

+1

I also don't have details on how to do that since I don't use that type of item for nudging but it's not the physics in the table. It's your nudge mech.

Sorry, I use hyperspin.

Sounds like maybe a configuration issue though. Do you use the program that identifies the version of VP that you want the table to run off of? If so, did you update that file for that table so that it's pointing to the right version? You may need to try the help thread for that table though at one of the VP sites. You'll get better help there for those types of challenges.

Friend of mine used the shakers out of an xbox controller as his shaker motor. Worked great for his use. It was a VP cab built in a Zizzle cab so it was a smaller cab. The shakers were right at the front.

Going back to this "free camera mod" for the Pinball Arcade. Has anyone been able to actually install it and get it to work? The instructions provided are pretty basic. Just extract the files to a folder and click run. I've done all that and all I ever get is the error below and yes, my cab is hooked up to the interneterror.jpg.

Thanks for the kind words. I hope everyone enjoys the tables.

As much as I want to be done building tables I may have to update that one. It's in desperate need of a PM5 or VPX conversion. No promises but if I work on anything again, it would most likely be that.

I still haven't been able to get the cab mod to work on my cab for TPA so I only play it on my IPAD. The physics are pretty good. Graphically, I think they cut way to many corners for being paid for those tables. Especially the earlier tables with ramps being jagged, some items don't even connect with each other. Also, the missing nuts and bolts on some tables bug me as they left the holes in the plastics from the scans. Some tables are much better than others so I guess they have different people working on different tables. Overall, the graphics are nice and normally better than VP but since it's paid for I expect more fit and finish. I still enjoy it and have most of the tables.

As far as the physics of VP. One thing everyone needs to understand is that every builder builds tables different and most of that difference is going to be with the physics. If you haven't learned to tweak those settings I encourage you to as you can then dial in your games to play as you like. Most VP PM5 and VPX tables can be adjusted to play just as well as TPA tables or play to your liking. The one big limitation with VP 9.9 (and why I don't build anything in VP 9.9) is with the flipper accuracy. It is just not there. PM5 and VPX corrected that behavior.

That is 100% it. There are adjustments that can be made but you are basically giving up center shot accuracy for outer shots or visa versa. Practically nobody believed me when I vocalized this as an issue in VP when VP9 was still being worked on. I was basically laughed off the board at VPforums. I then vocalized it again when the guy doing the phys Mod versions was developing things. Same reaction until he created a computer controlled table and discovered exactly what was occurring. I don't recall the exact reason for the issue but I thought it had something to do with the refresh rates of the game. Makes things so much more fun when you can cradle a ball and hit what you are shooting for.

Physic are so personal to everyone as we all like things a little different. This is true for real pinball too. I can't stress it enough that if you truely want to get the most out of your VP experience that you learn to adjust physics settings to your liking. There are a lot more things to adjust then most people think which can cause drastic differences in game play. For example, every colidable item in VPX can have it's physics adjusted. For PM5 everything but ramps can as well. Let's take a wall. There are even multiple adjustments in there. I apologize in advance as I haven't touched them in 6+ months so I don't recall their names but there are adjustments for the elasticity, randomness and spin. Elasticity is intuitive as it is labeled as such but the other two are not labled intuitively. I don't like a lot of spin so I reduce the settings to reduce it's spin and then for items that wont cause a random bounce I adjust those to not be very random (lane guide for instance). Then I prefer a mild bounce (white rubbers on a real table) so I put my elasticity between .06 and .07 normally for walls that create a rubber and then .01 for walls that create metal objects. Hopefully that comes out making some sort of sense.

Now for ball speed. That can be adjusted several ways but the two easiest and quickest ways is to: One is to increase the slope of the table. Same as taking your real game from 6.5 degrees to 7.5. Will speed up the ball, get less side to side action, makes the ball feel heavier, less bounce on rubbers, etc. And/or two - you can decrease the friction of the PF. This will make the PF more slick. Kind of like playing on a freshly clear coated and waxed PF vs an old routed PF that hasn't been cleaned. Doing this also reduces the spin on the layer that is the PF. one adjustment effects others so it's normally a dance getting things just how you like.

Now if you change some of these adjustments you will need to adjust the flippers

Ultimately you just have to play with things. Makes some adjustments and save the table (rename it to keep the original table in tact if you don't trust your adjustments) and then go from there.

P.S. - This doesn't even cover the game play adjustments that are doing in scripts My suggestion is to start with PF adjustments, then go into wall and ramp adjustments and then once you get comfortable with those you can start changing other things.

If their are more specific questions I'll try to help answer them the best I can. Between Fren and I we should be able to answer most things as he and I both do a lot of physics work to our games. This is a really good example of what I'm talking about with personal preferences. His tables will play very different than one I've built. Neither is right just as neither is wrong. We just prefer different game play characteristics.

One additional tip would be to find some tables that fit your style the best. You can then look at those setting which can give you a good place to start.

I'll have to try again. My problem is I could never get the "free camera mod" application to work.

Yes. LEDBlinky is a program that lets you test your outputs. Easy way to identify your ports that way.

Probably, but I would do the LEDBLINKY to confirm first.

I can't comment on the 2.7 physics of FP as the last version I tried was 2.5, but he is dead wrong about airballs on VP. My testers know this very well on my Metallica table. I had to put walls all over the place to keep the ball in play. VP very much does allow for air balls and also allows for randomization.

I'll have to try 2.7 to see if it is better. I just know that I can't hit a dang thing I shoot for which turned me way off of FP even though I loved the look of it. And before people say I just suck at pinball and that is the problem.... I placed 4th in the modern tournament last your at TPF (only big tournament I go to), while not a top level player I can generally hit what I want in real pinball as well as VP.

I must be an idiot now as I've spent 2 days now trying (yet again) to get my Pinball Arcade to work with the camera mod for cabs. Right now I'm stuck on the error "cabinet mode is only available when the desktop/game is set to portrait resolution". For the life of me I can't figure out how to get the game set to portrait. It is not one of the option in the set-up from stream. There is only "window" and "full screen". I've tried both with the same results.

This shouldn't be this complicated......

That works (all though now Pinball arcade crashes every time I try to start a table) but I hope that isn't the actual fix as this means I can't play my Visual pinball tables in cabinet mode. I know people have both running so I've got to be doing something majorly wrong.

So, pinball arcade works without the camera mod. When I use the camera mod it crashes 100% of the time when I select the TOTAN table (only table right now). Also, I can't make any adjustments at all to the camera mod when it first loads in TPA as all setting as greyed out.

heck, and I was beginning to wonder why I stopped using my virtual cab and quit building tables. Less than one day of wanting to get back into things I'm already so pissed at it that I'm ready to sell it again and be done with virtual pinball all together.

The big question is... Did any of the sharks buy a unit after playing it? Would be awesome if you got them hooked while also making a business connection.

$108K needed. Yikes. If memory serves me correctly that if you donate for the kickstarter none of those funds go towards the table itself either. Maybe they should start with some less expensive licenses that would be killer on Pinball Arcade. I did think it was cool to see ghostbusters was already on the table for TPA though.

I built mine with a 46 LED TV. I would not go bigger than that. Even decased it makes for a pretty wide cabinet. With the 46" my custom made cab is the same length as my real pinball machines and just a tad wider than a real widebody. the problem with going non standard sizes is you then have to get custom rails and lock down bar made. My recommendation is to go with a real pinball size cab (wide or standard size) and then find parts that will fit it. This way you can use standard parts and save on the headache of customer parts.

That's a loaded question. You could spend as little as a couple hundred all the way up to a couple thousand.

You need a LEDWIZ then you will add what you want to it. Here is a basic list:
- contactors - generally 8 of them is desired (left and right flippers, left and right slings, left pop, right pop, upper center pop, lower center pop)
- Replay knocker
- shaker motor
- gear motor
- fan
- RGB lights (most go with 5) for flashers
- fan (twister and Whirlwind)

You also need to understand what voltage you want to run each item with which could require multiple power sources and relays. For example I have my contactors running off 24 volts with the shaker on 12 volts.

IMHO - if you are going force feedback the minimum that I would go with would be contactors, replay knocker and RGB lights. Next would be a shaker motor.

With future pinball you set the screen sizes (playfield and backglass) individually. Once you've opened a table in FP hit the scroll lock button and use the page up/down buttons and the 2,4,6,8 buttons to set the position (translate) and size of the playfield and monitor. Once you have them where you want them either hit Ctr+S to save it, or save the table when you exit out of FP

I know I'll get crap for this but....

Sure hope that "credit" is compensation and that you don't get a C&D for that. I know if you would have done this with my custom artwork you'd get one. I spent hundreds of hours working on my artwork and then spent nearly $500 working with a professional getting it right. Using others work to profit off of is not right. If you want to sell the artwork you need to make an original drawing especially when your profit margin is easily $100 per set of decals.

P.S. - I know the owner of at least one of those decals. He's getting a message as we speak about the use of his artwork for profit. I don't believe he is a member here but can be reached on the VP forums.

Got it. 2 wrongs make a right.

To be fair, though. He made it for personal use (which is legal) while you are using it for business usage to sell which is not legal. Quite a bit of a difference there. At least you admit you stole the idea from someone, which is a step in the right direction.

Shoot, you're way past me. I was never able to get the camera mod to work. Always get a server error just on my cab. Other computers I tested things on worked fine, just my cab doesn't. And yes, I confirmed the internet is working fine on it

But, I thought you could re-map the keys in Pinball Arcade itself.

Anyone running MAME on their Pinball Cab? I've been trying to set it up but for the life of me I can't figure out two things.

- How do I get the games to play on my second monitor? Using MAME version 1.72 and I don't see this in any of the .ini files. Found one setting about displays but no matter what setting I a make it just blacks out my other monitors and wont move the game to the other displays.

- How do you get rid of the grainy/blocky looks? I saw something about HLSL settings but am having a hard time figuring out what to do. I know it can look good on LCD screens as all the new cabs are LCD but mine looks worse than an old school atari game.

Appreciate the feedback. I'll see if I can find that and give it a try. Kind of humbling trying to set this up. Did hyperspin and even built VP tables without much of a problem but this is beating me right now.

Looks like my ini file was missing that whole section. I've added the section that had the displays. Now it plays on the second screen but it's also playing on the main screen too. Any thoughts on how to get it to play only on the second display?

Here is a copy and paste of the section for the display.

# OSD VIDEO OPTIONS
#
video auto
numscreens 1
window 0
maximize 1
waitvsync 0
syncrefresh 0

#
# OSD PER-WINDOW VIDEO OPTIONS
#
screen auto
aspect auto
resolution auto
view auto
screen0 auto
aspect0 auto
resolution0 auto
view0 auto
screen1 auto
aspect1 auto
resolution1 auto
view1 auto
screen2 auto
aspect2 auto
resolution2 auto
view2 auto
screen3 auto
aspect3 auto
resolution3 auto
view3 auto

#
# OSD FULL SCREEN OPTIONS
#
switchres 0

#
# OSD ACCELERATED VIDEO OPTIONS
#
filter 1
prescale 1

#
# OpenGL-SPECIFIC OPTIONS
#
gl_forcepow2texture 0
gl_notexturerect 0
gl_vbo 1
gl_pbo 1
gl_glsl 1
gl_glsl_filter 1
glsl_shader_mame0 none
glsl_shader_mame1 none
glsl_shader_mame2 none
glsl_shader_mame3 none
glsl_shader_mame4 none
glsl_shader_mame5 none
glsl_shader_mame6 none
glsl_shader_mame7 none
glsl_shader_mame8 none
glsl_shader_mame9 none
glsl_shader_screen0 none
glsl_shader_screen1 none
glsl_shader_screen2 none
glsl_shader_screen3 none
glsl_shader_screen4 none
glsl_shader_screen5 none
glsl_shader_screen6 none
glsl_shader_screen7 none
glsl_shader_screen8 none
glsl_shader_screen9 none

#
# OSD SOUND OPTIONS
#
sound auto
audio_latency 2

#
# BGFX POST-PROCESSING OPTIONS
#
bgfx_path bgfx
bgfx_backend auto
bgfx_debug 0
bgfx_screen_chains default
bgfx_shadow_mask slot-mask.png

#
# WINDOWS PERFORMANCE OPTIONS
#
priority 0
profile 0

#
# WINDOWS VIDEO OPTIONS
#
video d3d
numscreens 2
window 0
maximize 1
keepaspect 1
prescale 3
waitvsync 0
syncrefresh 1
menu 0

#
# DIRECT3D POST-PROCESSING OPTIONS
#
hlsl_enable 1
hlslpath hlsl
hlsl_ini_read 0
hlsl_ini_write 0
hlslini %g
hlsl_prescale_x 0
hlsl_prescale_y 0
hlsl_preset -1
hlsl_write
hlsl_snap_width 1024
hlsl_snap_height 768
shadow_mask_alpha 0.1
shadow_mask_texture aperture.png
shadow_mask_x_count 320
shadow_mask_y_count 240
shadow_mask_usize 0.09375
shadow_mask_vsize 0.109375
curvature 0.0
pincushion 0.02
scanline_alpha 1.0
scanline_size 1.0
scanline_height 1.0
scanline_bright_scale 1.0
scanline_bright_offset 0.0
scanline_jitter 0.05
defocus 0.0,0.0
converge_x 0.2,0.0,0.0
converge_y 0.0,0.0,0.0
radial_converge_x 0.2,0.0,0.0
radial_converge_y 0.0,0.0,0.0
red_ratio 0.85,0.15,0.0
grn_ratio -0.05,1.05,0.0
blu_ratio -0.025,-0.025,1.05
saturation 1.0
offset -0.15,-0.16,-0.16
scale 1.15,1.16,1.16
power 1.1,0.95,0.8
floor 0.0,0.0,0.0
phosphor_life 0.0,0.0,0.0

#
# NTSC POST-PROCESSING OPTIONS
#
yiq_enable 0
yiq_cc 3.59754545
yiq_a 0.5
yiq_b 0.5
yiq_o 0.0
yiq_p 1.0
yiq_n 1.0
yiq_y 6.0
yiq_i 1.2
yiq_q 0.6
yiq_scan_time 52.6
yiq_phase_count 2

#
# VECTOR POST-PROCESSING OPTIONS
#
vector_length_scale 0.8
vector_length_ratio 500.0

#
# BLOOM POST-PROCESSING OPTIONS
#
vector_bloom_scale 0.3
raster_bloom_scale 0.1
bloom_lvl0_weight 1.0
bloom_lvl1_weight 0.21
bloom_lvl2_weight 0.19
bloom_lvl3_weight 0.17
bloom_lvl4_weight 0.15
bloom_lvl5_weight 0.14
bloom_lvl6_weight 0.13
bloom_lvl7_weight 0.12
bloom_lvl8_weight 0.11
bloom_lvl9_weight 0.10
bloom_lvl10_weight 0.09

#
# PER-WINDOW VIDEO OPTIONS
#
screen auto
aspect auto
resolution auto
view auto
screen0 \\.\DISPLAY2
aspect0 auto
resolution0 auto
view0 auto
screen1 auto
aspect1 auto
resolution1 auto
view1 auto
screen2 auto
aspect2 auto
resolution2 auto
view2 auto
screen3 auto
aspect3 auto
resolution3 auto
view3 auto

#
# FULL SCREEN OPTIONS
#
triplebuffer 0
switchres 0
full_screen_brightness 1.0
full_screen_contrast 1.0
full_screen_gamma 1.0

#
# INPUT DEVICE OPTIONS
#
global_inputs 0
dual_lightgun 0

I'll give it a try. When I had it at 1 before it would only open on the main monitor but I think that was before adding in the missing section. I'll try deleting one of the options sections as well. Didn't even notice there were two and I don't recall even adding that in.

Still no luck. I removed the second version of options so now I have the following. When I change "window 0" to "window \\.\DISPLAY2" it makes no change at all (still opens on both screens). The only change I've been able to make is by changing numscreens form 2 to 1 of which then it just opens on the main display (not display 2).

#
# WINDOWS VIDEO OPTIONS
#
video d3d
numscreens 2
window 0
maximize 1
keepaspect 1
prescale 3
waitvsync 0
syncrefresh 1
menu 0

#
# DIRECT3D POST-PROCESSING OPTIONS
#
hlsl_enable 1
hlslpath hlsl
hlsl_ini_read 0
hlsl_ini_write 0
hlslini %g
hlsl_prescale_x 0
hlsl_prescale_y 0
hlsl_preset -1
hlsl_write
hlsl_snap_width 1024
hlsl_snap_height 768
shadow_mask_alpha 0.1
shadow_mask_texture aperture.png
shadow_mask_x_count 320
shadow_mask_y_count 240
shadow_mask_usize 0.09375
shadow_mask_vsize 0.109375
curvature 0.0
pincushion 0.02
scanline_alpha 1.0
scanline_size 1.0
scanline_height 1.0
scanline_bright_scale 1.0
scanline_bright_offset 0.0
scanline_jitter 0.05
defocus 0.0,0.0
converge_x 0.2,0.0,0.0
converge_y 0.0,0.0,0.0
radial_converge_x 0.2,0.0,0.0
radial_converge_y 0.0,0.0,0.0
red_ratio 0.85,0.15,0.0
grn_ratio -0.05,1.05,0.0
blu_ratio -0.025,-0.025,1.05
saturation 1.0
offset -0.15,-0.16,-0.16
scale 1.15,1.16,1.16
power 1.1,0.95,0.8
floor 0.0,0.0,0.0
phosphor_life 0.0,0.0,0.0

#
# NTSC POST-PROCESSING OPTIONS
#
yiq_enable 0
yiq_cc 3.59754545
yiq_a 0.5
yiq_b 0.5
yiq_o 0.0
yiq_p 1.0
yiq_n 1.0
yiq_y 6.0
yiq_i 1.2
yiq_q 0.6
yiq_scan_time 52.6
yiq_phase_count 2

#
# VECTOR POST-PROCESSING OPTIONS
#
vector_length_scale 0.8
vector_length_ratio 500.0

#
# BLOOM POST-PROCESSING OPTIONS
#
vector_bloom_scale 0.3
raster_bloom_scale 0.1
bloom_lvl0_weight 1.0
bloom_lvl1_weight 0.21
bloom_lvl2_weight 0.19
bloom_lvl3_weight 0.17
bloom_lvl4_weight 0.15
bloom_lvl5_weight 0.14
bloom_lvl6_weight 0.13
bloom_lvl7_weight 0.12
bloom_lvl8_weight 0.11
bloom_lvl9_weight 0.10
bloom_lvl10_weight 0.09

#
# FULL SCREEN OPTIONS
#
triplebuffer 0
switchres 0
full_screen_brightness 1.0
full_screen_contrast 1.0
full_screen_gamma 1.0

#
# INPUT DEVICE OPTIONS
#
global_inputs 0
dual_lightgun 0

Sad part is that all makes sense to me but it still wont work No matter where I put the screens all it will do is either crash or duplicate the image on either both (numscreen2) or all 3 screens (with numscreen set to 3). I know I'm probably frustrating the heck out of you now

Added the section you talked about back in. Here is just a sample of what I tried. Take note that if I put anything in the screen 2 or screen 3 values it just crashes.

#
# OSD VIDEO OPTIONS
#
video d3d
numscreens 3
window 0
maximize 1
waitvsync 0
syncrefresh 1

#
# OSD PER-WINDOW VIDEO OPTIONS
#
screen \\.\DISPLAY2
aspect auto
resolution auto
view auto
screen0 \\.\DISPLAY1
aspect0 auto
resolution0 auto
view0 auto
screen1 \\.\DISPLAY3
aspect1 auto
resolution1 auto
view1 auto
screen2 auto
aspect2 auto
resolution2 auto
view2 auto
screen3 auto
aspect3 auto
resolution3 auto
view3 auto

Yes, but it's actually MAME that is giving me problems. VP works great. Trying to add MAME as I would like to play some old arcade games on my VP cab too.

Yes. Each builder will have a very different idea of how a game should play. For instance you will find my games don't have a lot of "spin" but more rubber bounce than most other builders. That is one good thing about VP is you can adjust to your liking.

Be advised that adjusting friction will increase spin so if you are looking to just adjust the speed of the ball but like how it spins you would want to adjust just the slope.

interesting. May need to dust off my cab. Haven't touched it in a couple years but it looks like a lot has changed since I stopped building tables.

Question for you all. I've been out of the mix for quite a while. I thought I'd get back into things but just haven't. As such I've already repurposed my CPU from my cab. Is there a market for a cab that needs a CPU? If not, is there a market for the parts from the cab? This thing was loaded. Still have:
- 7 siemens contactors
- Ledwiz
- H-bridge
- gear motor
- Shaker motor
- Polk amp, sub and 5 1/4 speakers
- 12v power supply
- 24 volt power supply
- 46inch LED TV for PF (Samsung)
- 32 inch LED TV for backglass (Insignia)
- 19 inch LED TV for DMD (Insignia and decased)
- Coin door
- It's also go flashers and lights for RGB colors. I used reg pinball GI bulbs for the RGB effects though so not really anything of any value there.

I obviously still have the powdercoated side rails, hinges for back panel, legs and painted lockbar. Cab is still complete, just without a CPU.

Attached is a picture of the cab. It was a home built cab so not perfect but I did design the artwork with the help of a pro some of you might know (Josh White).

Thoughts on what I should do with this? I was thinking of maybe parting it out or selling the whole thing to someone that wanted a quicker way to get started.

086761fffb887174a50e50f10a6623e8 (resized).jpg

Unfortunately, I haven't kept up much to much. I did look through the new builds a little bit and quickly noticed that my old (used to feel like a high end PC) now wouldn't cut it thus why it got pulled out of the cab.

Really, all the time I put into those tables kind of burnt me out. Was hoping I'd get the bug again but just haven't. I do hope people still enjoy them but I'm assuming at this point they are old news and deleted off most cabs by now with the new stuff out.

I'm not real sure if its 4k. It was a little over 2 thousand $ when I bought it. I'll try to find the serial number.

Whole cab, I'd do 1500 as it sits. Just needs a computer and programming to be a full force feedback system.

It's a beast of a cab so would need to be picked up for sure.

Appreciate it. It cost me about 6-7k to build so no clue on what it's actually worth. Not virtuapin quality but not hacked up either. Figure that's my, not part it out minimum willing to take price.

If anyone is interested let me know. Not really open to shipping though. If someone does buy it I'll donate to pinside.

46" Samsung LED UN46D6000SF

Pretty sure it's not 4k. I built the cab 7 or so years ago and I'm not even sure if 4k was a think then. It was fairly early for LED TVs thus the price then.

Just concerned with shipping as this thing is heavy. More than a new stern plus it's big. My main reason is I dont want any "you said this or thats" when the new owner was to get it. I hand built everything and it was my very first so it's not perfect by any means.

I'm in Leander TX.

Yeah, that is diffidently a challenge. I understand the stance of both sides but being an author of about a dozen tables, it did bother me at first seeing my tables on games that were being sold by MFG's at trade shows. I said at first as it didn't bother me for long because realistically speaking, I couldn't in good faith charge someone for that work without then passing on most of that $$$ to Stern (my tables were all stern based) since I was using their game code and artwork for my "creations".

Not saying that is the right way to think about it but my own personal justification for why I no longer was upset about it.

With that said, I strongly suggest that anyone that wants a VP machine to buy one with the maybe the foundation only installed. You need to understand how to set them up because at some point you will want to add new tables or something will go wrong that will require you to adjust some things. Going through the pain (oh I mean fun ) of setting up a machine prepares you for more long term fun/success with the cab as a whole. There are a lot of very helpful people around to that can talk you through any problems you may have at some point. I know when I was setting mine up a member here literally called me to walk me through my problem. I returned the favor by doing that with several people myself once I understood things. I'd offer that again now but with being out of it so long I'm not sure what help I could even be anymore as so much has changed.