thanks for the info.

Guys,

Almost going to build one...

Was looking at the wiring diagrams for the boards and feel a bit intimidated...

How hard is it to wire these cabs up?
How skilled at soldering do you have to be???

You may want to go take a look at vpforums

It can be a long project, and quite daunting if you are not already poised to build one

The wiring is pretty easy if you use one of zebs boards.

http://www.zebsboards.com

it's really not to hard if you have a good diaghram. There are several available but if you get stuck just ask and there is always someone that's been there that can help. I personally found this forum here - http://www.hyperspin-fe.com/ to be a lot better than VPF as it related to the cab build process. VPF is better for software based questions.

At the suggestion of Mr. Heck himself, I'm posting this here in case some people don't in the thread don't go to VPForums.

I've "finished" America's Most Haunted. You can grab it at:
www vpforums org/index.php?app=downloads&showfile=11261

(as with the AMH club post, I am in no way trying to bypass forum rules by posting a link as a newbie, and I understand the spamming problems, but I just want to get this available to people).

Will AMH run on 9.2.1?

I Dread the work,confusion of starting over again with VP 9.9 or 10.

Moving to VP10 is pretty straight forward with PinballX. And it will still allow you to play your 9.X tables with no issues.

So worth it with the quality of tables coming out from these talented developers.

I am using hyperpin.With win XP on a dual boot system in a pin cab.I run TPA and Zen on win 7 drive.I would like to Strat fresh on the win 7 drive.So I should go with PinballX and VP10?.Is the process the same as Hyperpin and VP 9.2.1.
It took me weeks to learn this on my own.And now that years have pasted.I am forgetting it all.

I would definitely go with PinballX and have an XML file for VP9.X, PM5 and VP10 tables so you can play your existing stuff. PinballX GameManager makes it easy to manage and add tables. I still add tables directly to the 3 XML files since I find that easier. I use Game Manager to pull down wheel images, and background music etc.

The PM5 tables are fantastic and some will be replaced by hopefully superior VP10 tables. Check out here what is available in PM5:

https://mega.nz/#F!fgI0RaqC!hk0_TR9YDaiBl8emF-lRHg

I love the TZ PM5 posted here, not sure who created it, but it plays fantastic on the cab!

Once you install the latest build of VP10 and get it going on your cab, try out Fren's release of TronLE on VP10, it's insane! I am actively shopping around for a TronPRO in Winnipeg after playing this version

http://vpuniverse.com/forums/topic/2165-vp10-tron-conversion-from-fp-vpx-beta/

Tron_VP10.jpg

After installing VP10 on my cab, I had some real strange anomalies in my VP9 and PM5 tables. Some didn't work, some started generating errors from the script and almost all of the tabled got massive stutter. Mind you everything was working flawlessly up until I installed VP10 and added its changes. I guess be aware it is still in beta. I have read of similar issues although not as severe. Mine were major enough that I started over and reinstalled the OS and applications on the cabinet. kind of works out for me though as I do plan to list it for sale. Got everything reinstalled and after a fresh install and config, she is running like a dream again. I will take an image this time before I try VP10 again.

I had to install VP10 alone in it's own directory as I was getting errors on VP9.x and PM5 tables after copying over the new *.vbs files. For some users having all the VP executables in the same directory works fine, did not for me.

Working flawlessly since this move.

Yep, I read that as well. I am going to try that when ready. All of the executable for 9 an PM5 are in the same and they work fine so I will keep them that way. Will put 10 in a directory of its own.

I got 50 tables up and running today and with it being all fresh and fast, I remember how much I enjoyed it in the first place. Gonna be hard to let this go now. I can always build again though.

It's actually a PITA. Try mine.

https://www.minds.com/blog/view/471002140853149696/pinxcheck-beta

Some handy stuff for VP10 too like adjusting camera on launch. There is a guide a put up from fuzzel there how it's done and uses his default values so you can get the view correct without egg balls.

No game limit.
Add all VP into one, no need for untold databases. Other stuff, check the description. Not had enough drive to go complete this app. Some of the media matching may not be working, I can't remember but I generally just use it as a launching tool but its a complete manager.

downloaded and tried, it's crashing on launch, placed it in the pinballx dir

where is the latest build of vp10? been looking for a few days

Sorry, I was quick in my reply before and didn't mention something that could happen. Place the IPDB.txt inside databases. I think it's something to do with google drive not keeping the correct folder structure when you download.

Find the thread called "VP 10 is here" on VPForums. It will be in the first post.

Figured I would throw this up on the Virtual Pinball thread before I get it in the market tomorrow. It is a lot of fun and I had a great time building and configuring it and playing it, but I am ready to sell it. I am looking to sell my Virtual pinball machine, asking $3000 cash, or trade for a pin from my wishlist. It is a combination of the body of a Lucky Fruit Zaccaria machine and the backbox of a Williams. I made it all from 3/4 birch and all new pinball bits. PC is a Core2Duo E8400 3.0Ghz CPU, 4GB RAM, 2GB EVGA 660 GTX, 600W PSU and 120GB Samsung 840 SSD. Sound is 2 Klipsch PC speakers and an 8" sub powered by a Lepai amp with crossover. Microsoft Sindwinder for nudge. Running a fresh install of Windows 7 64-bit and has 62 tables loaded. I try to add 10 a night. So until it sells, I will continue to add tables (until I hit 150, which is what I originally had).

Also included but not hooked up is an LEDWiz, Sainsmart board, 12 solenoids and secondary 200W power supply. I haven't hooked them up but will include everything in the sale so the next owner can add them for feedback if desired.

Any questions, let me know. I have plenty of pictures and can take more.

IMAG1066.jpg
IMAG0390.jpg

IMAG1067.jpg

Iam looking at installing a differnt tv in my
cab. anyone know whats good model to
buy? i have 46" led 3d. and whats the
best way it should be mounted in the
cab. mine is sunken in the back. dont like
the viewing angles isnt good. thanks

What don't you like about the LED 3D TV? I would think that would be real nice.

I had mine pretty flat but just changed it, dropping the front and raising the back, probably a 3" difference between the front and back and I think it is so much better. You should try angling it more, might be a nice improvement on what you have.

I dont mind the tv didnt know since its decased if can be adjusted. it looks like towards the back it slopes down. wheres yours looks straight on normal. ill post some pics. IMG_20150409_214322_245.jpgIMG_20150805_240648857.jpg

That is how mine was when I originally built it. I have a piece in the front it rests on that I dropped down about an inch and the ledge it sits on in the back I picked up about 2 inches. I have side rails as well which I had to adjust accordingly. Not too bad, just a little time to get it right. I also raised the back via the leg adjustments. It really makes a difference in the picture, the feel and the play having more of an angle.

My monitor/TV is level with the ground, sometimes I wish I would have made it parallel with the glass, sometimes it doesn't bother me. I still have fun either way, but if I make another, Ill be making it parallel with the glass and completely removable from the top. right now mine removes by sliding it out from the back.

I have contactors for sale if anyone need some, I think I have 8 or 9 left, I'll take $110 shipped for them all, paid $135 for them

Thanks for the info. any diagrams how to have it
fitted. i wanna get it done right

There are discussions on here somewhere about flat to the glass or angled.. personal preference based on monitor and settings to some degree, but a simple fact is that the more perpendicular your head is to the monitor the better the viewing experience should be... just imagine being in a room watching a tv.. the more off angle you get the crappier the color and viewing experience is. Unfortunately 3d does not work off axis either... twist your head in relation to a TV or at a theater and you'll notice the 3d goes away. If you do nothing else drop the front leg levelers as low as comfortable and raise the rears to the max and ever with a screen that is lowered in the cabinet you'll get more favorable angle. Not as much as raising the monitor, but more. Try stacking a couple of phone books under the rear legs and lower the front to the ground... that would give you the best case scenario just to see it.

thanks for sharing the tips. anyone with pics to share. appreciate it.

possibly thinking on going down to
a 42" tv. looking for opinions who prefers
46" or 42". iam thinking that 46" is too
big. not much room to work inside of the
machine if need to. anyone know any forums
or any measurements on how the tv should be
leveled in the cab? thanks appreciate your help

I think 46" is the proper length of a pinball machine, so if you were looking for accuracy as to filling the cabinet, that would be the way to go. With a 40" TV, I had to make a 6 inch spacer for the front but it is the width of a standard sized pinball machine. I love it, plays well, looks great. It really does come down to opinion and what you want/like.

As for information on pitch of the TV, I have seen it all over the charts and again, is another one of what you like. However, for myself, I can say I had it almost level, a little raised in the back, but not much. I liked it. A few months later I decide to raise the back another inch or so , basically having the back 3 inches higher than the front. Had someone from here come over to check it out to get ideas for his build and he questioned the pitch, saying it might be better raised more. We took the glass off and raised it and he liked it more. I played a few games after he left and agreed. Ended up dropping the front an inch and raising the back another 2 and I think it is a lot better. I know, no real measurements or pitch degree stated, but the back is raised about 6-7 inches higher than the front.

I think the best advice is to play a game while having someone pick up the back and see how you like it at the different levels. Also check out vpforums.com, vpuniverse.com and hyperspin-fe.com (hyperpin section). There are a lot of threads made from this question that a search on those sites will find for you.

Thanks so much for your input. hard to decide
what to go with. my 46 is in pretty tight only way
to get it out is to tear part of the cab apart. and
i have some parts to replace inside. also have a digital plunger but the shooter rod rubs against the tv. my tv is at a slant so not much adjustment can be done. dont like how the tv sits in front it doesnt look right. i had the machine built so this will be my first try putting a tv in. i have a williams wide body. you know where some threads on the forum how to mount the tv in for for a true playfield
look. i couldnt find any on there. thanks

Why would you put the spacer on the front and not the back? It looks bad to have the play field way up.

A 40" or 39" in a standard body case feels much more natural.

A 39" in a standard cabinet with the bottom butted right up to the lockbar and the top about 2" below the glass leaves a nice place to mount the upper playfield flashers. It also allows you to use the original plunger if you have the right tv.

I spaced mine to accommodate for the flippers and a plunger, if I ever decided to add one. I have seen it both ways and played both and spaced it to what felt comfortable. There is still some space in the back as well. All can be changed as well if ever needed, although it is currently for sale so maybe the next owner will move it if they don't care for it how it sits, which I would help with if they chose.

A launch ball button will fix any plunger clearance issues anyone might have if you don't mind just using that instead.. and agreed that a 39" TV is the best size for a standard non-custom cabinet.

On another note.. just finished another unit up for someone.. Some new art was sent my way and given the content I asked if they wanted to do lightsaber colors for the legs. Turned out pretty cool. My personal preference is for all black legs and black top rails, but it is what they wanted. I pretty much nailed the colors of the saber legs though.

DSCN3052.JPGDSCN3052.JPGDSCN3045.JPG

Wow Looks Sweet. Bub2010 what tv size
you recommend for widebody cab? Can you
please share how it should be mounted. i
have launch button also. but might just pull out the plunger. dont have the clearence.
anyone use plexiglass over their backglass
tv? any effect with that?? Thanks

Plexiglass is fine. I use it over the Playfield.

Plexiglass is awful when compared against a sheet of tempered glass. You can get a custom sheet for well under a c-note. Order it "tempered, seemed, no logo." The failure of plexi is it's static attraction of dust.

Plexi and polycarbonate and lexan scratch easily and dull easily, can't beat glass in this application.

Mine are 32 Gregh.. and never used a stock cabinet of any sort.. I cut all my own. I don't even like real wide body pins.. I did play one that was a 46" widebody and it was entirely too big for me.

Agreed that glass is cheap and plastic is totally a dust magnet.

so Bub2010 that Star Wars you posted pics
of has a 32" tv for playfield? i have a widebody based a williams designed. looking for some input how the 46" should be mounted for a pinball playfield. or what tv size would be best for a true pinball playfield. and would mounting dimensions please? thanks

Yep.. 32". As far as mounting a beast that big... prolly best with some huge horizontal mounting bars or a big sheet of ply to support it. Even if thin and relatively light it is gonna be relatively heavy given its size.

Thanks Bub. to me that tv looks bigger than
32" in that star wars.

Hauntfreaks has released a sweet Metallica table here:
Metallica (Custom EarthShaker) FS 1.0 by hauntfreaks
http://www.vpforums.org/index.php?app=downloads&showfile=11298

Video of table:

Love it!
http://i21.servimg.com/u/f21/17/79/34/56/metall10.jpg

Gregh.. probably looks bigger cause it has a pretty small bezel plus the fact that the full size machine that is behind it is probably 4 feet or so behind it making the one in the front and the one behind look a lot more close in size. I mean it is about 2/3 the normal size, but the angle and distance there makes them look more the same size.

Also.. 32" really isn't all that small especially when you consider how close you stand to it. I've made one before that had a 24" for the playfield and that one started to feel small...mostly because I wanted the cabinet width to not feel too skinny... so having it still be like 16" wide or something it still had a pretty big bezel area all around and at the rear. (These 32's are about 19" wide) On these I have only about 1/3" all the way around... no huge gap at the rear like most do. That is the benefit of a custom cut cabinet opposed to just using a standard cab. Stuff fits like a glove.

Bub Thanks appreciate the info. it fooled me.
looked alot bigger. now you really got me in a dillema. ha ha. now thinking i should go smaller. How about 42". the way my 46" sits in doesnt look right for viewing angles like a real pinball.

Sort of asking the wrong guy.. if I do a personal cabinet that is bigger I'm gonna do a 39" / 32" (upper) I'd do a 37" for the playfield, but 37's are few and far between... 39's are everywhere. One of the first virtuals I saw was an ultra wide body and I just don't like stuff looking bigger than in person... I mean the size of the pinball is somewhere between the size of a golf ball and a handball on monitors that big. (let alone all of the other parts of the pin) Pretty convinced that except for the extra couple inches of filler you need on a standard cab that a 39" or 40" is pretty much the perfect size especially in a custom cut cab. (so there isn't nearly the slop area).

thanks for the info. very interesting. anyone
know if you should have your tv set to "game mode" in the tv settings? and any improvement running 2 video cards one for Backglass and other for playfield? thanks

ALWAYS run game mode and turn off any TV "software enhancements". As far as 2 video cards.. Meh.. Debateable... I'm currently running 150 on mine and they all run great. Now.. if you run 3 physical displays instead of just 2 it may make a difference, but from what I've seen with 1 card with enough power can handle the backglass, playfield and superimposed DMD on backglass fine. Allocating resources within the video card to run the actual physical 3rd output might end up being the difference. I know now a days that most video cards have 2 DVI and HDMI or some variant of that which makes it possible for 1 card to do it all output wise.

Thanks soo much Bub. ill try game mode and
see if that makes a difference. i just have 2 tvs. and using a real dmd. i have a 3D 1080 Led tv for the playfield. dont know if having the 3d is making the tables not look right. now if were to go down to a 42" or smaller do the widebody games like Paragon,Genie etc look in wide form like the pinball game or be differnt size..