(Topic ID: 20666)

VID's Quick and Dirty Rotisserie Guide


By vid1900

7 years ago



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    Topic index (key posts)

    21 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20

    Post #1 What is a rotisserie, description and supplies list. Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)

    Post #2 Step One: Drill & tap sides. Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)

    Post #3 Step two: Drill & tap tops. Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)

    Post #4 Step three: Form the axle. Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)

    Post #5 Step four: Assemble the knob. Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)

    Post #6 Step five: cut and assemble the perforated angle. Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)

    Post #7 Step six: finish the legs. Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)

    Post #18 Clamps for attaching playfields to the perforated angle. Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)

    Post #24 Leg leveler idea. Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)

    Post #66 Playfield sizes. Posted by vid1900 (6 years ago)

    Post #79 Variation using plywood ends instead of perforated angle iron. Posted by jgreene (6 years ago)

    Post #120 Video demonstration on using a rotisserie. Posted by vid1900 (6 years ago)

    Post #144 Link to a video on how to remove a playfield. Posted by lb1 (5 years ago)

    Post #170 Link to a wooden design. Posted by vid1900 (4 years ago)


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    30
    #1 7 years ago

    First, I did not invent this. This Rotisserie has been around in some form or another since your wife was young. Every woodworking oldtimer has one of these "Blackpipe Rotisseries" for their wood finishing. At least as far back as the 1990's woodworking books show how to build this style of rotisserie.

    Second, with all the Rotisserie posts today, I though I'd put this up without thread crapping on anyone else s post.

    What is good about this Rotisserie is that you can get all the parts in one trip to the hardware store and put it together in less than a hour. If you are a handy sort of person, you probably have most of the stuff in the rafters of your garage.

    It breaks down in less than a minute and stores flat.

    Super sturdy because it is made entirely of metal.

    It adjusts for any size playfield in seconds.

    Everything is made from "Black Pipe". No welding and only one easy cut with a hacksaw gets you an unbreakable playfield Rotisserie.

    Shopping list (print and take with):

    (2) 36" x 3/4" black pipe
    (4) 12" x 3/4" black pipe
    (8) 3/4" Tee
    (2) 60" x 1/2" black pipe
    (2) 3.5" x 1/2" Nipple black pipe
    (2) 1/2" Cap black pipe
    (2) 1/2" Floor Flange
    (4) 1/4"-20 x 3/4" Screws
    (6) 1/4"-20 Nuts
    (6) 1/4"-20 Lock Washers
    (2) 1/4"-20 x 4" Carriage Bolt
    (4) 1/4"-20 Thumb Screws
    (2) Silcock Replacement Knob
    (1) 36" x 1.5x 1.5" Perforated Angle

    Stuff you already have:

    13/64 Drill Bit
    1/4"-20 Thread Tap
    (if you don't want to tap, see this thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-quick-and-dirty-rotisserie-guide/page/5#post-3237772)
    Motor Oil
    Hack Saw
    Pipe Wrenches
    Lacquer Thinner
    Enamel Paint and of course metal Primer
    Old pinball rubbers

    If you want order online, cheaper than HomeDepot, skip to this thread:

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-quick-and-dirty-rotisserie-guide/page/7#post-4624906

    rotisserie.jpg

    #2 7 years ago

    Start at the drill press.

    Drill through the sides of 4 of the 3/4" Tees with the 13/64 drill bit.

    Dip your 1/4-20 tap into motor oil and tap threads into the holes.

    (if you don't want to tap or drill, see this part of the thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-quick-and-dirty-rotisserie-guide/page/5#post-3237772 )

    FOOT-DETAIL.jpg

    #3 7 years ago

    Next drill 13/64" holes into two 3/4" Tees on the top and towards one edge as shown.

    Tap 1/4"-20 threads as you did with the others.

    AXIS-DETAIL.jpg

    #4 7 years ago

    The 1/2" Floor Flange attaches to the 3.5" x 1/2" Nipple. This forms the axle that allows the playfield to spin. Once you place the Nipple through the 3/4" Tee, cap the end with the 1/2" Cap.

    #5 7 years ago

    The Silcock knobs have square holes in their centers and 1/4"-20 x 4" Carriage Bolts have a matching square shoulder.

    Put the bolt through the Knob, then place a Lock Washer and a 1/4"-20 nut.

    This completes the Knob assembly.

    KNOB-DETAIL.jpg

    #6 7 years ago

    Cut the Perferated angle in half with a hacksaw.

    Use the 1/4"-20 x 3/4" screws to secure it to the Floor Flange; using a Lock Washer and Nut.

    TOP.jpg

    #7 7 years ago

    Finally, use the undrilled 3/4" Tees to finish up the legs as shown.

    The 48" x 1/2" black pipe conveniently fits inside the 3/4" Tees you drilled for the Thumbscrews.

    Now you can vary the length of the Rotisserie to fit any size or brand playfield.

    Put some old playfield rubbers around the Tees so the Rotisserie does not slide all over the floor. LOWER-BASE.jpg

    #8 7 years ago

    Clean all the metal with Lacquer Thinner to get all the manufacturing oil off of it.

    Don't skip this step or you will get the dirty oil all over your playfield as you work.

    Prime and spray with a high quality enamel.

    #9 7 years ago

    That's it.

    It will take longer for the paint to dry than to build it.

    Like always, I'll rewrite a few sentences here and there for clarity. Don't be afraid to point out errors or points that need further explanation.

    #14 7 years ago

    Very nice!

    The monopod takes care of any variations in playfield length without adjusting thumb screws. I like it.

    #18 7 years ago
    Quoted from charles4400:

    How are you attaching the PF to the Perforated Angle? Clamps? If so any trusted clamps you can recommend that won't fail and drop your PF?

    I used Irwin Quick-Grip clamps for the playfield in the pic:

    http://www.irwin.com/tools/clamps/one-handed-mini-bar-clamps

    Sadly, I saw the Irwin are now made in China, so the $2 clamps at Harbor freight are probably just as good:

    http://www.harborfreight.com/12-inch-ratchet-bar-clamp-spreader-46807.html

    #19 7 years ago

    If any of the holes in the playfield line up with the Perf Angle, then using a fender washer, you could screw it down.

    Usually there is something in the way during assembly on the top or bottom, so the quick release bar clamps are good for fast readjustments.

    #23 7 years ago

    A Silcock is the garden hose valve on the outside of a house. At least that is what they call them here in the East.

    The Silcock knobs are in the same isle as the all the other plumbing stuff you will be buying.

    A thumbscrew will not give you the range of tension that the big knob will, so trust me on this, if you want the easiest tension setting, you want the knob.

    #24 7 years ago
    Quoted from exflexer:

    I tapped another hole in the piping in order to install adjustable feet much like a washing machine to stop the wobble on my garage floor.

    Good idea.

    You guys could tap 3/8"-16 holes near the ends of the 12" x 3/4" pipes and install some Leg Levelers:

    http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=921&parent=7

    You will probably want the rubber boots too, for traction.

    #26 7 years ago

    I got an email asking about the Perforated Angle Iron.

    It's at any hardware store in a rack stored vertically. Usually there are some rods and flats in the same rack.

    You can use Aluminum Angle or regular Angle Iron, but then you have to drill the holes yourself. Don't bother getting any expensive or thick stuff - a playfield does not weigh that much.

    You can cover the Perf Angle with liquid rubber Plasti Dip if you want a non slip protective rubber coating:

    http://www.plastidip.com/home_solutions/Plasti_Dip

    #29 7 years ago

    A few of you have asked if I want to do a kit with just the drilled and threaded Tees - so you can just go to the hardware store for the rest and assemble.

    I'm not excited about the idea, but if a dozen people want it, I'll do it.

    It's easy to drill a hole and run a tap through it, but I do understand that not everyone has a drill press.

    Ask around, probably 1/2 of all homeowners have a drill press.

    #31 7 years ago

    Thanks Vid for the How-To; a few follow-ups for you please:

    1. Approximate total cost?

    A: There is easily $50 in materials. Everything is made of metal, so it's not cheap, but will literally last forever.
    =
    =

    2. Advantage of this version over the PVC in your opinion.

    PVC gets brittle over time and may react to the chemicals in the Clear Coat, or Lacquer Thinner.

    PVC is not stiff like iron, it sags and has some spring to it.

    PVC is lightweight so the playfield will be top heavy unless you fill the PVC with sand or lead shot. You can't accidentally knock over the iron one.

    =
    =

    3. I'm doing my first swap as we speak--actually, it's not a swap, I literally just got my AFM PF back from HEP. My observation in the teardown was that a rotisserie wasn't actually necessary. (I kept the PF in the cabinet right up till about 95% of the components were removed from the upper and lower PF; I just kept lifting & lowering the PF; was no biggie in hindsight--didn't seems to need a rotisserie!)

    Now also being a car resto guy, I'm fully aware that assembling is 10X as hard as the tear-down--so my question is: would you recommend a rotisserie in my particular case knowing now what you know? (I may do a few more of these over the coming years--but not many; maybe half a dozen or so (and I would envision always sending my originals PFs off to HEP vs. buying repros).

    Bottom line: I wondering if rotisseries are really only needed for a true swap where two PFs in play at one time?

    A: I use rotisseries even for non playfield swaps.

    Even rebuilding four pop bumpers is done in 1/2 the time on a rotisserie.

    They save you a few hours over lifting and lowering the playfield. I don't know what you make per hour, but saving a few hours of time for $50 is a bargain for me.

    Soldering on a level surface is better, and drips don't fall into the depths of the machine.

    Setting the spinner springs, changing over to LED, adjusting pop bumper switches, everything is 10x easier.

    Sitting down is a very relaxed way to work on anything.

    2 months later
    #33 7 years ago

    Yes, you only need the 4 quick clamps.

    You can use some of the playfield screw holes, but usually the quickness of the clamps (for repositioning) overrides the convenience of the existing holes.

    3 weeks later
    #40 6 years ago
    Quoted from Whysnow:

    (2) 1/4"-20 x 4" Carriage Bolt >>> I suggest just getting 2" carriage bolts as the 4" ones are unnecessarily long. I am not sure if there is a reason for them to be so long?

    At my Home Depot, the only Carriage Bolts with the square shank below the head were 4" and longer. The square shank fits the square hole in the Silcock knob exactly.

    I tried to make sure that the entire design could be made with materials from Home Depot.

    If you found 2" bolts with the square, all the better!

    Quoted from Whysnow:

    I need to spray paint the whole thing today (after is warms up outside) and after building it, I questioned why did I not just use galvanized pipe? Is there a reason to use black pipe besides cost?

    Black pipe is cheaper, that's why I use it.

    Wipe the pipe with Lacquer Thinner to get any oil off, and paint away.

    Quoted from Whysnow:

    My thoughts are that galvanized means not dirty oil to clean up and no need to paint???

    There is still oil to clean off where the threads were cut, but yes, you would not have to paint it.

    I guess you don't have to paint Black Pipe either, as it already has a baked on foundry finish, but I like the look of the painted surface.

    #41 6 years ago
    Quoted from kmoore88:

    There's a similar design on RFP that I followed but uses a triangle design for the ends that tends to be more stable IMO.

    Please post a link to your rotisserie.

    Once the playfield is clamped, this one is amazingly stable.

    I sand clear coat on them all the time, and if it was not stable, the pneumatic sander would whip the thing around.

    Unlike many other designs, this design lets you work on the playfield seated - the most comfortable way to work for me.

    2 months later
    #45 6 years ago

    Looks great MrArt2U!

    #46 6 years ago

    Although woodworkers have been using the pipe rotisserie since at least the 1980s, I wanted to point out that Pinball Mike posted about making one in 2005 on RGP.

    I don't want anyone to feel slighted, least of all a fellow Pinsider! Thanks Mike!

    #50 6 years ago
    Quoted from Whysnow:

    >>>Note: I had to change the bottom 1/2" x 48" pipes to 1/2" x 60" The 48" long pipes weren't long enough for any of our playfields. The 60" pipes work very well.

    That's what is great about the design, you can easily modify it to your specs.

    One guy who emailed me saying he designed the first pipe rotisserie back in the 1980s, said he originally used it to restore antique doors. Obviously you would need to use two 1/2" x 96" black pipes if you had to secure a door between the uprights.

    #52 6 years ago
    Quoted from wizzardz:

    I built this same one (single vertical on each end). Some complain that it isn't very stable,

    It is sturdy enough for the air sander, so I say it is sturdy enough.

    There are welded units that are more sturdy, but they don't store flat, and would be hard to take out to a repair job.

    1 month later
    #59 6 years ago
    Quoted from CASTHOF:

    I am using 1/4 x 20 eye hooks crews. My reasoning behind that was ill always have a handy Phillips or flat head screw driver to tighten or loosen the rotisserie.

    Nice mod.

    #62 6 years ago
    Quoted from Hobbypinball:

    Not knocking anyone else's design. I'm just an impatient type so this was much easier for me.

    Woodworkers have been using black pipe rotisseries since at least the 1990s, it's time to get some fresh ideas in the air.

    2 weeks later
    #66 6 years ago
    Quoted from QuickSilverShelb:

    Vid, I just built a rotisserie using your guide and it is simple and excellent. Only one thing I'd like to comment on. You state to use 1/2" x 48" pipe for the long lengths but I think you actually need 1/2" x 60" pipe for the long lengths because the 48" pipes are not long enough to take a playfield.

    Probably the floor flanges are different from brand to brand, making that difference (x2 yet).

    BUT what I totally forgot about is that some playfields like GNR are 51" long! So yes get 60" lengths to cover anything the pinball world can throw at you.

    I changed the OP.

    Thanks for pointing that out!

    =

    Stolen from rob046:

    EM
    ----------------------------------------------------
    Bally 70s EM - standard : 20.25" x 41.00" [514mm x 1041mm]
    Gottlieb 70s EM - standard : 20.25" x 41.00" [514mm x 1041mm]

    ----------------------------------------------------
    Early SS
    ----------------------------------------------------
    Atari - widebody : 27.00" x 45.00" [686mm x 1143mm]
    Bally (Pre WMS) - standard : 20.25" x 42.00" [514mm x 1067mm]
    Bally (Pre WMS) - widebody : 26.75" x 40.50" [679mm x 1029mm]
    Gottlieb System 1 - standard : 20.25" x 42.00" [514mm x 1067mm]
    Gottlieb System 80 - standard : 23.75" x 46.50" [603mm x 1181mm]
    Gottlieb System 80 - widebody : 26.75" x 46.50" [679mm x 1181mm]
    Stern Early SS - widebody : 23.875" x 45.00" [606mm x 1143mm]
    WMS System 1-11 - standard : 20.25" x 42.00" [514mm x 1067mm]
    WMS System 1-11 - widebody : 27.00" x 42.00" [686mm x 1067mm]
    Zaccaria SS - standard : 20.25" x 42.00" [514mm x 1067mm]

    ----------------------------------------------------
    Modern SS
    ----------------------------------------------------
    Capcom - standard : 20.25" x 46.00" [514mm x 1168mm]
    Data East - standard : 20.25" x 46.00" [514mm x 1168mm]
    Data East - widebody : 25.00" x 51.75" [635mm x 1314mm]
    WMS WPC (until 1987) - standard : 20.50" x 42.00" [521mm x 1067mm]
    WMS WPC (1987 on) - standard : 20.50" x 46.00" [521mm x 1168mm]
    WMS WPC - superpin : 23.25" x 46.00" [591mm x 1168mm]
    WMS Pinball 2000 - standard : 20.50" x 43.00" [521mm x 1092mm]

    1 week later
    #69 6 years ago

    If you are storing a playfield for a long time, screw some rails to the back to keep the playfield from warping.

    3 months later
    #77 6 years ago

    Interesting use of the hold down clamps.

    I like it.

    #80 6 years ago

    That is a great mod.

    Wood on wood is a "no scratch" solution for sure.

    1 week later
    #83 6 years ago

    Since they break down flat for storage, it's cool to have 2 of them side by side for playfield swapping.

    #88 6 years ago

    I do stand on them when using a pneumatic sander for extra stability.

    When sitting, my legs are between the pipes.

    Kind of like a "bar rail" at the local saloon, it just seems natural to have a foot on one of them.

    1 month later
    #108 6 years ago

    You can just go in and edit your posts to just a "." .

    A mod will come along and delete them .

    1 week later
    #112 6 years ago

    Don't sweat it. It happens to everybody.

    I've had the forum accidentally repeat my post 4 times in a row.

    Sooner or later it gets cleaned up.

    1 week later
    #116 6 years ago
    Quoted from angus:

    I'd like to put my Party Zone on a rotisserie to work on. But it seems like to get it on the rotisserie I have to do a lot of the tear down first. There are a couple of coils and a ramp at the top end and a bunch of lights at the bottom that would prevent it from sitting on the angle iron. But getting to the coils is about impossible in the machien. Do you do a large part of the teardown in the machine first?

    You might clamp it below the angle iron rather than on top of it.

    Sometimes existing holes on the playfield give a secure mounting point.

    There are games that might require a few pieces to be removed before it plays nicely with the rotisserie.

    Improvise, post pictures....

    4 weeks later
    #120 6 years ago

    Andre made a nice demonstration video on how the rotisserie works, if any of you are still fuzzy as to it's utility :

    1 month later
    #127 5 years ago
    Quoted from Cheeks:

    I made one as per the guide. Has anyone had any problems with the threads stripping? I had this problem in particular on the T joint that housed the silcock handle to prevent the playfield rotation. This happened before I even finished my first game using the new rotisserie. I've drilled a new set of Ts, but I'm wondering if others have had this problem or if there was possibly just a material defect on that piece of piping.

    Usually the metal is plenty strong since big plumbers with big wrenches are torquing on them.

    4 months later
    #130 5 years ago
    Quoted from Geocab:

    I finally bought a Firepower playfield so I can do a swap soon. Definitely going to build one of these. Or should I build two?
    That's for the guide!

    Two is better than one, no doubt about it.

    2 weeks later
    #134 5 years ago
    Quoted from mof:

    Edit: add to "stuff you have" -- a drill press (I don't have one) so I'll need to go build this at a friend's house...

    Black Pipe is really soft metal, if you had a vise and a brand new drill bit, it could be done by hand (I have tapped a few black pipe gas lines with a hand drill in my day). But if you have a drill press at your disposal, that is the best choice.

    1 week later
    #137 5 years ago

    Looks great and nice color.

    But put those Molex connectors in a plastic bag and zip tie it shut.

    You don't want crud getting inside them from the ground.

    4 months later
    #143 5 years ago
    Quoted from stepside:

    Anyone care to weigh in on their experiences with this? Is this routinely doable as a 1-man job?

    Easy one man job.

    Pull all the balls.

    Make sure every secret wire is unhooked. Gather up wires, and zip tie underneath.

    Clear the area of extension cords and other trip hazards.

    Extend the rotisserie to the proper length before you pull the playfield.

    Stand the playfield up on end and put one hand on the bottom to lift.

    1 month later
    3 weeks later
    #156 4 years ago
    Quoted from toro1966:

    Having the same issue the pipe is pretty strong, so after tightening and loosening the handle multiple times, it strips the bolt that prevents the rotisserie from spinning. The result is that no matter how hard you try to tighten the handle, the playfield won't stop.

    You could get a better grade of bolt (a "grade 8" bolt would be much stronger than the grade 0 bolt from China Depot).

    You could move up in bolt size to a 5/16" bolt (if the pipe's threads ever stripped).

    -

    If you center the playfield for balance, it won't take much to lock it down.

    4 months later
    #158 4 years ago

    Pinsniper just told me that Home Depot does not stock the Silcock knobs any longer.

    If that's true, you can just get a 1/4-20 knob at any hardware store for $2.50

    http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/27R16/Knob-T-Style-with-14-20-x-2-Stud.aspx

    27R16.jpg
    #160 4 years ago

    Good, glad to hear they did not stop carrying them everywhere.

    3 weeks later
    #162 4 years ago

    You don't have to crank on the black pipe for a gas tight connection.

    If you are doing a showroom paint job, stick a large screwdriver through the fittings and snug them up w/o a wrench.

    3 weeks later
    #166 4 years ago
    Quoted from hisokajp:

    -I am not a painter, only did a coin door with spray paint, so can I use the below metal primer and spray paint for the Rotisserie as well?
    http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Stops-Rust-12-oz-Clean-Metal-Primer-Spray-Paint-7780830/100143442
    http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Professional-15-oz-Black-Flat-Protective-Enamel-Spray-Paint-7578838/100114318
    Would one of each be enough?

    thanks!

    Those both should be fine.

    Gloss black would be a little more durable in the long run.

    #167 4 years ago
    Quoted from hisokajp:

    -I could not find the exact 3.5" x 1/2" Nipple black pipe on their site? the 1/2" comes in 3 or 4" long but the only 3.5" long I found was the 3/4" diameter... I am missing it?

    I could not find it on their site, but they have it in their stores.

    If there were no 3.5" left in the world, you could just get the 4" and it would be almost as good.

    2 months later
    #172 4 years ago

    Yeah, the earliest reference anyone has shown me to our hobby's black pipe rotisserie is in a 90's woodworking book that uses it for door refinishing on all sides.

    They show the same angle iron wings, like we use now, but they use threaded machine screw knobs with sharpened tips to hold the door, rather than the clamps we use.

    1 week later
    #175 4 years ago
    Quoted from Pinballmike217:

    That may be true but the plans for this rotisserie were copied verbatim from plans I originally designed and posted on RGP with no permission asked or given.
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/just-in-case-you-havent-built-a-rotisserie-yet

    There are like 3 of you guys all claiming to have be the inventor of the black pipe rotisserie.

    One guy even went as far as to send me a picture of it in a woodworking book with a 1990© copyright date, claiming he was the author.

    I imagine each of you guys could have independently invented it, stranger things have happened.

    The only person I'm certain did not invent it is me.

    11
    #179 4 years ago
    Quoted from Pinballmike217:

    I just don't understand why you refuse to give credit where credit is due. You do a ton for Pinside

    You keep bringing this up year after year.

    I gave you credit 2 years ago in post #26 of this guide:

    Quoted from vid1900:

    Pinball Mike posted about making one in 2005 on RGP.

    I don't want anyone to feel slighted, least of all a fellow Pinsider! Thanks Mike!

    =

    Quoted from Pinballmike217:

    You don't have to take credit for other peoples work when you have done so much on your own.

    2 years ago in post #1, the very first line, I said that I did not invent this:

    Quoted from vid1900:

    First, I did not invent this.

    -

    So I gave you credit, I said I did not invent this, and there are 2 other guys who claim THEY invented it, one of whom has authored a book with the plans published in 1990.

    #181 4 years ago

    Alright, I have a feeling I'm being punked, but I'll give this one last try so this does not go on anther 3 years. (I've been emailed that English might not be your first language - sorry, I did not know that) ......

    -

    Quoted from Pinballmike217:

    The guy you reference in 1990 built a rotisserie for doors not pinball playfields. That is clearly not the rotisserie in this post.

    It has the exact same parts, except all the 1/4-20 knobs are plastic T-style knobs.

    It has the exact same assembly, except for the pinball rubbers around the legs.

    E-X-A-C-T-L-Y the same.

    Quoted from Pinballmike217:

    It is just mind boggling to me that someone who gives so much to Pinside is incapable of acknowledging someone else for just trying to help as well.

    I hope your mind is not so boggled that you missed your acknowledgement in post #46 in this thread 2 years ago.

    I even went as far as to say I did not want you to feel slighted:

    Quoted from vid1900:

    I wanted to point out that Pinball Mike posted about making one in 2005 on RGP.

    I don't want anyone to feel slighted, least of all a fellow Pinsider! Thanks Mike!

    So once and for all, thank you Mike, Forrest and Steve (and any one else that I surely don't know about) for inventing, constructing, adapting and importing the pipe rotisserie into the world of woodworking and pinball.

    #186 4 years ago
    Quoted from cichlid:

    If he needs more attention than that, let Mike pay for a blowjob like the rest of us.

    Pay for blowjobs?

    Ahhhh.....you must be married......(rimshot).

    http://instantrimshot.com/index.php?sound=rimshot&play=true

    #188 4 years ago

    Forest or Steve, could one of you guys email me that scan from the woodworking book or magazine again please?

    I'm not sure if I have your email address from 3 years ago.

    I won't mention your name if you still don't want me to.

    Thanks,

    Vid

    1 month later
    #190 4 years ago
    Quoted from hisokajp:

    so just went through assembling my rotisserie (great job btw!) I am just not sure how to get the cap and flange all the way in? It seems the thread is bigger/longer than the cap/flange? Anyway to get around it?

    Just fill the gap with some washers.

    1 week later
    #198 4 years ago
    Quoted from hisokajp:

    Am I doing something wrong? I thought two coats of primer and gloss paint would be stronger than that... Should I repaint on tom and clear this time?

    Rattle can paints take 3 or so weeks to fully harden, longer if thickly coated.

    #199 4 years ago
    Quoted from cooked71:

    Cost me about $30 in timber and a few bolts. Already had the Gorilla benches.

    Cool design!

    I love the benches for holding stuff on the ends.

    Quoted from cooked71:

    I don't have room to store a full permanent rotisserie (like vids one)

    The pipes slide out of the bottom of the legs in seconds, and then the whole thing stores completely flat.

    One of mine is hanging flat in my work van right now.

    -2
    #208 4 years ago
    Quoted from Robotoes:

    You guys are BOTH doing WOZ swaps already?!?

    Lot's of WOZs need replacement playfields because the paint wore off all the way down to wood.

    368908-i.jpg

    368803-i.jpg

    #209 4 years ago
    Quoted from cody_chunn:

    I have already stripped out one of the threaded holes in the top rotator. It's hard to get them tight enough so that the field doesn't move under pressure. Gotta come up with a solution for that.

    Make sure the tips of your knob bolts still have the sharp, factory "cupped" ends; so they can bite into the metal.

    Drill a new hole and tap new threads.

    Drill through the thickest part of the metal

    Use a drill press to bore the hole, if you do it by hand, the hole will be larger and looser.

    2 weeks later
    #211 3 years ago

    Get a brand new bit.

    That one is defective.

    "Sharp bits make chips, dull bits make dust"

    2 weeks later
    #214 3 years ago
    Quoted from lb1:

    I am feeling a lot better selling my WOZ NIB. I would be livid having paid $8K and getting this.

    JJP simply forgot to apply the Mylar that is normally installed on every game since the 1970s.

    -

    When WOZ was being developed, people were going crazy with "highest quality game ever made" fantasies.

    "The playfield is going to be 1 inch thick! The playfield is going to have 2x the layers of wood that a crappy Stern has! Ten coats of clear! The playfield is so well made, won't ever dimple! ....."

    But once the game came out, it was just a regular playfield, and regular playfields need Mylar.

    5 months later
    #221 3 years ago
    Quoted from kilmarnock1350:

    Question: How to do LED swaps on the rotisserie? I know certain LEDs only work one way, i.e. if it doesn't work, flip the contacts around and reinsert.

    Plug the playfield GI connector into the cab, and just install all the LEDs right alongside the game.

    #223 3 years ago
    Quoted from kilmarnock1350:

    What about controlled lamps? Or is that just a gamble? Sorry for hijacking rotisserie thread...

    You can plug the whole game in while on the rotisserie, just be sure the bare GI wiring does not short out on the metal brackets.

    #226 3 years ago
    Quoted from TechnicalSteam:

    Completed: this produces adequate torque.
    Silcock Replacement Knob at Menards - Found this in Store.
    Danco Universal Outdoor Faucet Handle -

    Nice find!

    And remember guys, don't get too hung up on the Silcock knob.

    You can buy a 1/4-20 shaft threaded knob, already assembled, at any ACE, Woodcraft or real hardware store that has all the parts drawers for $2

    27R16_(resized).jpg

    12613-l_(resized).jpg

    27R15_(resized).jpg

    7464524-23_(resized).jpg

    1 month later
    #229 3 years ago
    Quoted from slcpinball:

    Just built my own, originally inspired by this design. I used scrap wood I had on hand for the base and to save on cost. I found a structural pipe tee to use instead that didn't require drilling or any of the silcock knob business (http://www.lowes.com/pd/B-K-3-4-in-x-3-4-in-x-3-4-in-90-Degree-Gray-Galvanized-Steel-Structural-Pipe-Fitting-Tee/999930890), just an allen wrench to tighten. Instead of clamps I used 2' pieces of wood and thumb screws/wing nuts.

    That's a great idea, because the Tee is already threaded - no drilling or tapping required.

    Do you know what thread the set screws are?

    Someone could replace one set screw with a knob and have an easily adjustable rotation.....

    032888188457_(resized).jpg

    2 weeks later
    #232 3 years ago
    Quoted from Plumonium:

    So I guess instead of using a Tee I would use something else, not sure what since but the hardware store should have something.

    Buy these parts at the HW store and clamp or bolt it to the sawhorse.

    919720c720ece827ab54e5b7a7cb7102afe7f357_(resized).jpg

    10 months later
    1 month later
    #248 2 years ago
    Quoted from GorfFan:

    1) The best FOLDABLE or storable rotisserie plans that you've seen. I need it to store next to wall and still be stable, so I'm looking for the smallest "foot print" (floor space) I can find.

    This one instantly slides apart and lays 2" flat against the wall:

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-quick-and-dirty-rotisserie-guide

    Quoted from GorfFan:

    2) I would like to add 2 adjustable arms to the rotisserie that can pivot over the play field, which will hold a small tray in each arm. I want to put small bolts, washers, parts in these 2 trays/tables. Plus these 2 arms can not add any more distance to the rotisserie either. I will barely have enough room to set up the rotisserie, so I can't add any additional length to the working area.

    Take an articulating arm off of an old computer monitor. Add any tool trays you like!

    5 months later
    #258 1 year ago
    Quoted from Aladdin:

    Here’s a simple fix for collapsing saw horses. Another use for HF clamps

    Have you tried to remove the plastic knob and reverse the fixed head, then reverse the ratchet end?

    It becomes a spreader.....

    4 months later
    #277 1 year ago
    Quoted from Elicash:

    I too am having an issue with the perpendicular pipe have some wiggle. No matter how hard i try to tighten the bottom horizontal pipes, I still get a little play. Is this normal?

    The two long pipes are only being held in place by the tiny amount of contact from the thumbscrews.

    Once the playfield is clamped, you have your closed frame, and everything is stiffened up.

    Think of a cardboard box, when the top flaps are open, the box can be flexed out of square easily. When the flaps are shut, the box is many times stiffer.

    #278 1 year ago
    Quoted from KornFreak28:

    Any pics or ideas on how to secure the playfield once the rear panel installed?

    What game?

    Pics?

    #280 1 year ago
    Quoted from KornFreak28:

    Well, I’m currently doing my IJ playfield and once I installed the rear panel, there was no way to secure the rear area because the rear panel gets in the way

    You can clamp to the top of the rear panel, or just clamp to the side rails.

    #282 1 year ago

    If you need more leverage, but don't want to always have to reach for a wrench, you can get T-bolts (sometimes called T-Strap) for $2 at any real hardware store.

    They come in 1/4, 3/8, 5/16 and 3/4" sizes

    e030554-medium (resized).jpg

    t_strap_bolts (resized).jpg

    4 months later
    #297 1 year ago

    Sometimes I use a few zip ties and let the playfield hang down a few inches until I'm done with that section.

    Other times, since my angle iron is perforated, I use 2 pieces of threaded rod.

    #299 1 year ago

    Just install 2 small screw-eyes in the wood anywhere that they are out of the way

    038613122918 (resized).jpg

    Or use a Z-bracket

    5YB93_AS02 (resized).jpg

    Or 2" Pipe Strap

    basset-products-straps-hangers-ds100-5-22b-64_1000 (resized).jpg

    Or any threaded rod contraption you can think of

    DSC00180 (resized).JPG

    Or.....

    1 month later
    #304 1 year ago
    Quoted from crashpad:

    I've got a can of Paint Thinner – will that work or won't it be strong enough to take the manufacturing oil off of it?

    Paint thinner is pretty strong stuff.

    You soak your bike bearings in it to completely remove all the hardened grease from the cages.

    Give it a good rubdown until the paper towel wipes clean.

    Do final degreasing with something fast evaporating like Naphtha, alcohol or Lacquer Thinner and spray the primer.

    Wear gloves and do it outdoors.

    FAJXVILH4AFZQAZ.LARGE (resized).jpg
    #307 1 year ago
    Quoted from JodyG:

    FYI- zoro.com has the pipe pieces for waaaay cheaper than you will find at Home Depot or Lowes. Also, they offer free shipping over $50, and I usually get parts from them the next day in my locale.

    You are right, nice tip!!!!

    https://www.zoro.com/search?q=black+pipe

    #308 1 year ago

    Here is Zoro shopping cart, came out to $73
    Untit;;;;led-1 (resized).jpg

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