(Topic ID: 20666)

VID's Quick and Dirty Rotisserie Guide

By vid1900

11 years ago


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  • 381 posts
  • 137 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 months ago by WalrusPin
  • Topic is favorited by 421 Pinsiders
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    Topic index (key posts)

    22 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

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    Post #1 What is a rotisserie, description and supplies list. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

    Post #2 Step One: Drill & tap sides. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

    Post #3 Step two: Drill & tap tops. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

    Post #4 Step three: Form the axle. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

    Post #5 Step four: Assemble the knob. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

    Post #6 Step five: cut and assemble the perforated angle. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

    Post #7 Step six: finish the legs. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

    Post #18 Clamps for attaching playfields to the perforated angle. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

    Post #24 Leg leveler idea. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)


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    #311 5 years ago
    Quoted from crashpad:

    Thanks guys – I will remember for future orders. Already good to go for this round, but I could definitely enjoy the savings next time!

    Roger that. Damn. Wish I would’ve checked back in on this thread before I left. I grabbed everything at Lowe’s and Home Depot.

    I didn’t see that the entire shopping list from Vid’s first post was available on Zoro. Anybody see anything different? I couldn’t find a perforated angle or the Sillcock replacement knobs. I’m already ready to roll, so I’ll probably just stick with what I bought for now and try Zoro next time.

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    #313 5 years ago
    Quoted from Chet:

    I ended up using two stock 1.5" x 1.5" - 24 inch long 14 gauge steel angles from Lowes for my mouting brackets. The 24" long angles accommodate a full wide body playfield without having to cut them cutting.

    I likewise ended up going with a 5’ perforated angle. Cut in half, 30” each, enough to accommodate a Superman PF, which is 28 1/2”.

    #314 5 years ago

    Done. You guys weren’t lying, it was cake. I did use torque knobs in place of the thumb screws on the base. I think I might get this thing powder coated. And add wheels.

    Thanks for posting Vid!

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    #315 5 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    Sadly, I saw the Irwin are now made in China, so the $2 clamps at Harbor freight are probably just as good:

    Another great post in here Vid. One 6 inch Irwin clamp at Lowe’s...$19.

    Four 6 inch and two 4 inch clamps at Harbor Freight…$15.94 for all 6.

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    2 weeks later
    #322 5 years ago
    Quoted from wizard_mode:

    Careful with those HF clamps. I have had them come loose after a few uses for other projects. I bought Irwins for my PF work. Ain't putting my priceless populated PF on a HF clamp no way no how!!!

    I’ve used them twice already with no issue. But I’ll keep an eye on their stability (or possible instability). Thanks for the heads up.

    3 weeks later
    #327 5 years ago

    Obviously having two people is helpful. That’s a heavy playfield. Either way, flying solo, I usually lock the angles flat “around” the correct width, put both sides on, tighten up the one side and clamp it, then go back and clamp and tighten up the other side.

    #330 5 years ago
    Quoted from dmacy:

    Usually a few lamp sockets or cable management that has to be removed. Always take pics first before you do.

    Definitely check that. Good addition. I was using the ol’ rotisserie working on my Halloween retheme this weekend, and I had to go under and remove a switch and two harness clamps for the small one to fit properly. It wouldn’t fit sideways because of the drop bank.

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