(Topic ID: 20666)

VID's Quick and Dirty Rotisserie Guide


By vid1900

7 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 352 posts
  • 122 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 months ago by wizard_mode
  • Topic is favorited by 360 Pinsiders
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    Topic index (key posts)

    21 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20

    Post #1 What is a rotisserie, description and supplies list. Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)

    Post #2 Step One: Drill & tap sides. Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)

    Post #3 Step two: Drill & tap tops. Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)

    Post #4 Step three: Form the axle. Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)

    Post #5 Step four: Assemble the knob. Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)

    Post #6 Step five: cut and assemble the perforated angle. Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)

    Post #7 Step six: finish the legs. Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)

    Post #18 Clamps for attaching playfields to the perforated angle. Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)

    Post #24 Leg leveler idea. Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)

    Post #66 Playfield sizes. Posted by vid1900 (6 years ago)

    Post #79 Variation using plywood ends instead of perforated angle iron. Posted by jgreene (6 years ago)

    Post #120 Video demonstration on using a rotisserie. Posted by vid1900 (5 years ago)

    Post #144 Link to a video on how to remove a playfield. Posted by lb1 (4 years ago)

    Post #170 Link to a wooden design. Posted by vid1900 (4 years ago)


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    #161 4 years ago

    Uh...maybe dumb question: assemble, prime then paint? Prime, assemble, paint? Prime, paint, assemble? I'm thinking A/P/P as the wrenches are gonna scar the finish...

    #163 4 years ago

    I just figured the tighter the joints, the sturdier it would be.

    Just want a good finish w/o wrench bite marks.

    4 months later
    #193 3 years ago

    Couple of observations:

    Thumbscrews on the top 'rotor' do not cut it. You need them TIGHT. Eye screws are the way to go. You can leverage them with a screwdriver and cinch them down good. Thanks to the guy who suggested them. I still might drill the holes all the way through and use clips.

    The bottom pipes are right where your feet need to be most of the time and are very annoying, uncomfortable and eventually painful. You almost need a decking surround the same thickness as the pipes so your feet don't get catholic school punishment.

    Still, it is a great tool and has made my current project much easier on my body and easier to perform. Love it!

    2 weeks later
    #207 3 years ago

    I have already stripped out one of the threaded holes in the top rotator. It's hard to get them tight enough so that the field doesn't move under pressure. Gotta come up with a solution for that. I drilled the holes through and am using a giant clip pin but it's to loose as well...

    6 months later
    #219 3 years ago

    My idea of enhancements...well one, anyway.

    I stripped and wallowed out my thumbscrew hole, so I tried to enlarge it to accept a large cotter pin. That was a disaster with a handheld. Asked a friend of mine (gunsmith) who had a drill press to drill the thumbscrew hole in the shoulder of the joint where there's more material (thanks vid!) and also a hole that goes right through both that accepts the cotter pin nice and tightly. Now I can lean on the playfield or whatever and that thing is NOT GOING ANYWHERE. I found myself having to retighten the thumbscrews over and over and still the field would rotate a bit as I worked on it. Now I just tighten the thumbscrews enough to hold it in place while I insert the cotter pin. MUCH more stable and zero slippage.

    Thanks to vid and the other fella that published the plans.

    Rotisserie_enhancements_(resized).JPG

    4 weeks later
    #227 3 years ago

    Yeah, I used the eyebolts or whatever they're called. Those thumbscrews in the first incarnation in this thread just didn't make it.

    Thanks again for the how-to. I have a field in mine right now that will save me enough time to bring it to SFGE.

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