(Topic ID: 20666)

VID's Quick and Dirty Rotisserie Guide

By vid1900

11 years ago


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  • 381 posts
  • 137 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 months ago by WalrusPin
  • Topic is favorited by 421 Pinsiders
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    Topic index (key posts)

    22 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

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    Post #1 What is a rotisserie, description and supplies list. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

    Post #2 Step One: Drill & tap sides. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

    Post #3 Step two: Drill & tap tops. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

    Post #4 Step three: Form the axle. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

    Post #5 Step four: Assemble the knob. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

    Post #6 Step five: cut and assemble the perforated angle. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

    Post #7 Step six: finish the legs. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

    Post #18 Clamps for attaching playfields to the perforated angle. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

    Post #24 Leg leveler idea. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)


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    You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider John_in_NC.
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    #285 5 years ago

    I just stole these plans and put my own twist on it. Made it a height adjustable from 33" to 52" tall depending on if I'm sitting or standing to work.

    Parts list
    2 each 3/4" X 3/4" X 1/2" "T"
    2 each 1/2" floor flange
    2 each 1/2” nipple 3.5" long
    2 each 1/2" cap
    2 each 1" Floor flange
    1 each 1/2" X 4' Pipe (cut in half)
    1 each 1" X 60" pipe (cut in half)
    2 each 2x4 for base - 26”
    1 each 1x4 for base - 48”
    4 each 5/16th locking screws with knobs 2 < 1” long 2 = 2” long
    2 each Perforated angle steel - 22”
    8 each countersink screws for base
    4 each 1/4” carriage bolts - 1/2” long
    4 each 1/4” locking nuts
    4 each T nuts for base feet
    4 each pinball feet
    2 colors of paint

    All in about $100

    The largest variation to the previously prescribed instructions:
    I used 3/4" X 3/4" X 1/2" "T"s vs 3/4" X 3/4" X 3/4" - The support leg is 1/2" pipe 24" long (1/2 the 4' pipe) The 1/2" slips into the 1" pipe that is 30" long (1/2 the 60" pipe) which naturally will require the larger and sturdier 1" floor flanges.

    I painted the 1/2" pipe red at the bottom for max height level to assure I don't exceed the lockdown screw I installed in the 1" pipe on the non-threaded end. I used the protective plastic caps that came with the 1" pipe to cover the sharp edge there.

    I installed "T nuts" in the 2X4 base to allow leveling and it lets me use my skates to make the loaded rotisserie easy to move around.
    The whole thing breaks down to 3 pieces in 10 seconds stores flat.

    Will be attaching uquick clamps when they arrive

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    #286 5 years ago

    All done. I'll use these clamps 90% of the time, will remove if I need for playfields with apron and arch installed. When clanps engaged, they do not impede the rotation of the playfield.

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    1 month later
    #289 5 years ago
    Quoted from John_in_NC:

    All done. I'll use these clamps 90% of the time, will remove if I need for playfields with apron and arch installed. When clanps engaged, they do not impede the rotation of the playfield.
    [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

    Scratch the clamps, pretty much useless unless it's an empty PF. I removed them and am using mini bar clamps like epeabs. Small and easy to use.

    #291 5 years ago

    These, got them at Lowes

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    7 months later
    #319 5 years ago
    Quoted from Spiderpin:

    I gave all my hf clamps away, I don't trust them. Note the block of wood for the Irwin quick grip. One on each corner.
    [quoted image]

    This is kind of brilliant in a minimalist kind of way. 4 long sliding clamps and you are set.

    4 weeks later
    #331 5 years ago

    Getting 1st use from mine I built last year. Guess the game..

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    #334 5 years ago

    It's getting there

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