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(Topic ID: 20666)

VID's Quick and Dirty Rotisserie Guide

By vid1900

11 years ago


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  • 381 posts
  • 137 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 months ago by WalrusPin
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    Topic index (key posts)

    22 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

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    Post #1 What is a rotisserie, description and supplies list. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

    Post #2 Step One: Drill & tap sides. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

    Post #3 Step two: Drill & tap tops. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

    Post #4 Step three: Form the axle. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

    Post #5 Step four: Assemble the knob. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

    Post #6 Step five: cut and assemble the perforated angle. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

    Post #7 Step six: finish the legs. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

    Post #8 Step seven: Clean and paint. If you don't clean it you'll get dirty oil all over playfields installed in your rotisserie. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

    Post #18 Clamps for attaching playfields to the perforated angle. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

    Post #24 Leg leveler idea. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

    Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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    #325 5 years ago
     
    BUD

    Budwin

    Inactive member

    US Westerville, OH

    8y 66,550 432 7

    Quoted from Scoot:

    I no longer use "C" clamps on my rotisserie anymore. I just take 4 one inch wood screws with washers and screw them into the ends of the playfield through the perforated angle. This is much more secure and eliminates the issue of rotating the rotisserie with the "c" clamps installed. It also raises the playfield up off the perforated angle by about half an inch, to prevent wires and gi sockets from being squashed out near the end of the playfield.

    I have been doing that for a while since there are always parts in the way on the back side of the PF.
    The PF is really more secure like that anyway.

    1 year later
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    #368 3 years ago
     
    BUD

    Budwin

    Inactive member

    US Westerville, OH

    8y 66,550 432 7

    The way I extended the PF to allow for all the parts on the back side.
    Used wood screws into the PF with depth limiting washers. (and nuts)
    This allows full rotation missing the ramp and other parts.

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    2 months later
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    #372 2 years ago
     
    BUD

    Budwin

    Inactive member

    US Westerville, OH

    8y 66,550 432 7

    Quoted from FlipperFanatic:

    does anybody have pics of their cabs on the rotisserie?
    Interested in how you attached without blocking the ends for painting.
    Thank you in advance.

    I did a stencil paint job on the rotisserie here:
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wild-life-or-jungle-resto-and-mods#post-3655277
    I also did a Firepower stencil paint job on the rotisserie.
    Used 1 IN Alum standoffs on the back side (two extra holes in cabinet)

    10 months later
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    #373 2 years ago
     
    BUD

    Budwin

    Inactive member

    US Westerville, OH

    8y 66,550 432 7

    Getting ready to paint, another good use of Vids rotisserie.
    I used two 2FT rods (3/8" threaded rods) and nuts/washers to secure the backbox.
    There are two small holes to fill when done, but for me the convenience of rotating the box for better painting is worth it.
    My smaller rotisserie is on wheels for even more convenience for moving around.

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