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Bought the supplies to make one of these tonight. In case anyone is curious for pricing updates, this all ran about $150 at Lowe’s. Compared to the last person that posted a Lowe’s breakdown, the main differences seem to be in the long black pipes (which are about $15 a piece now instead of $10). Could probably be a little cheaper by substituting some of the parts or cutting up longer pipes .. I only had the shopping list at the time, so just tried to stick to it as close as possible.

(2) 1/2” x 60” black pipes - $30.30
(2) 3/4” x 36” black pipes - $31.14
(4) 3/4” x 12” black pipes - $21.92
(2) 1/2” black pipe caps - $3.76
(2) 1/2” x 3.5” black pipes - $4.36
(2) 1/2” black pipe floor flanges - $8.96
(8) 3/4” black pipe tees - $26.72
(1) 1.5” x 36” perforated angle - $8.98
(2) Universal faucet handles - $11.96
(2) 1/4”-20 3/4” screws with nuts - $2.56
(4) 1/4”-20 3/4” thumb screws - $2.16
(2) 1/4”-20 4” carriage bolts - $0.52
(6) 1/4” split lock washers - $1.14

Total - $154.48

That’s not too bad. I don’t need one that often so I went with portability and built one out of a miter stand I had laying around. Plus I didn’t want to have to do all that work. I did the numbers out of curiosity and I’m guessing it’s around $120 being a little generous and that’s if you have to buy all of the supplies. So it’s not that much of a cost savings. It’s more about time and space.

http://www.pinballrevolution.com/threads/the-canadian-arcade-how-to-build-the-best-diy-pinball-playfield-rotisserie.8480/

Out of curiosity, how well does everyone's rotisseries stay in place when the playfield is rotated so it's top heavy? My EM holds fine when the weight is on the bottom. But if I rotate it so the weight is on top, it stays in place but wants to rotate pretty easily (even with the spigots cranked down). Usually I need to keep my hip on it when I'm working, since applying pressure will send it off (which leads to a gasp of terror). I think someone mentioned milling flat spots at certain angles so the spigots have a better surface to press against. Anyone else had this issue or done any mods for it? Or do you all just crank the spigots in mega tight?

PS - I also went with using zip ties on each corner as a backup to the clamps. Probably not necessary, but makes me feel better having the redundancy just in case.

Not very well. It would be great if the pipes that rotate were hex shafts and had 6 flat spots that you could choose from to tighten the spigots down on. This would take a little more fab know how though and make it a little less quick and dirty.

Drill a hole thru the pipe when the PF is at 180 degrees. Turn the spigot thru the hole.

Mine is stable as hell.

Loose, but u can hammer on it.

That would stop it from spinning. I wound up making mine a fixed table with an open bottom. It seems to suit me well for shopping out a PF. Now for PF swaps, I would want to improve this thing some to have a good functioning rotisserie. Don't know if I will do more of those or not anyway. Good idea though on the hole drilling.

Great tip. Saved quite a bit and was able to get a few other things like plastic knobs for adjustments.

Here’s my second one that’s much less ghetto. Tapped in 1/4-20 for bottom and use slider glides to move it around in my basement. Will swap out with with casters like I did on my older one if this doesn’t work with the gliders.

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Anyone have any clear cut steps to getting the parts of the playfield exposed that you need to clamp to the rotisserie? Do you remove those parts while it’s still in the machine? (And other questions between “glass off” to “clamped to rotisserie.”)

I take those parts off when the playfield is out but before on the rotisserie.

What do you typically set the pf on while you’re taking off those parts?

I personally take the them off before by standing it upright and taking photos so I know what goes where. Than set up in rotisserie.

Could anyone shed some light on how to prevent side to side motion on the rotisserie? Mine is not stable whatsoever. It’s not the rotation that’s the problem but the two poles that hold the angled brackets.

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I had the same issue. So I bought four 3/4”x12” pipe. Bought a 3/4” cross, and a 3/4” x 1/2” tee. The tee is 3/4” top and bottom, and 1/2”. Also need a 1/2”x60” pipe.

I removed the two 36” vertical pipes. On one side I put the 12” vertical pipe, then the 3/4x3/4x1/2 tee, then another 12” pipe. The other side a 12” pipe, 3/4” cross (I put in a tee screw) and another 12” pipe. Then thread in the 1/2”x60” pipe, tighten the tee screw. Very solid
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Well, up here in Canada I was able to buy all the parts for $270 taxes in.

I've adapted the parts list for Canada with some adjustment for stock available in my local suppliers because of Covid. It took a little juggling. Rather than muck about with thumbscrews and sillcock handles, I ordered jig handles from Lee Valley. Higher quality, less money, and purpose-built.

So here are parts, SKUs, and prices:
Home Depot:
4 12" 3/4" pipe 1001157022 $5.93 $23.72
8 3/4 tee 1000126360 $2.25 $18.00
2 3.5" x 1/2" nipple 1000126457 $1.50 $3.00
2 1/2" cap 1000126373 $1.17 $2.34
2 1/2 floor flange 1000126392 $5.10 $10.20
4 1/4-20 x3/4" screws 1000122471 $0.19 $0.76
4 1/4-20 nuts 1000123233 $0.12 $0.48
4 1/4 lock washers 1000182051 $0.37 $1.48
4 angle iron safety caps 1000174541 $0.91 $3.64
1 lacquer thinner 1000130940 $8.97 $8.97
1 metal primer 1000406048 $8.97 $8.97
1 enamel paint 1000481646 $12.97 $12.97
2 mini bar clamps 1000833122 $24.97 $49.94

Lowes:
2 36"x3/4" pipe 22510 $14.49 $28.98
2 60"x 1/2" pipe 22505 $13.49 $26.98
1 48"x1.25x1.25 angle 215766 $20.99 $20.99

Lee Valley:
4 Knobs, 1 1/8" wing knob 00M5102 $2.70 $10.80
2 Knobs, 2" bar knob 00M5511 $3.60 $7.20

The way I extended the PF to allow for all the parts on the back side.
Used wood screws into the PF with depth limiting washers. (and nuts)
This allows full rotation missing the ramp and other parts.

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My rotisserie is pretty much like everyone elses, but I mounted one side to a support pole that is in my garage. This made it very solid and does not shake or twist at all. I just welded a pipe “T” to a muffler clamp.

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does anybody have pics of their cabs on the rotisserie?
Interested in how you attached without blocking the ends for painting.
Thank you in advance.

Just build me one a couple weeks ago. I have to say that i love it. Makes working on the playfield so much easier. Thanks vid.

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I did a stencil paint job on the rotisserie here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wild-life-or-jungle-resto-and-mods#post-3655277
I also did a Firepower stencil paint job on the rotisserie.
Used 1 IN Alum standoffs on the back side (two extra holes in cabinet)

Getting ready to paint, another good use of Vids rotisserie.
I used two 2FT rods (3/8" threaded rods) and nuts/washers to secure the backbox.
There are two small holes to fill when done, but for me the convenience of rotating the box for better painting is worth it.
My smaller rotisserie is on wheels for even more convenience for moving around.

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I'm just about to build my rotisserie and reading this thread has given me a lot of good ideas.

Just a side note...I hope you picked Mata Hari to go first. She's looking at that new rotisserie like she wants to take it for a ride.

You cannot adjust the length of the rotissierie then can you, since the pipe for the length is screwed in?

Here’s my rotisserie I built a couple years ago. It’s a cheap harbor freight miter saw stand. The risers are box iron with 3/8” holes drilled to bolt on the perf angle. The bolts are on bearings (which are not necessary at all, don’t bother).

It will fit any size playfield by turning the knob and sliding the arm out to whatever length you need. Same for riser height.

I still have the saw holders on it in this picture, but they have a quick release feature to remove. I keep thinking I may use them for something but I guess I should discard.

The whole thing folds up and is easy to store.

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Nice I like it! Where did you get the riser steel? Is it the same as 1-5/8" steel strut? I have plenty of that.

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It’s just 1” steel tube. You can even buy a stick at Home Depot and cut with a hack saw.