(Topic ID: 20666)

VID's Quick and Dirty Rotisserie Guide


By vid1900

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 351 posts
  • 122 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by KozMckPinball
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    Topic index (key posts)

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    There are 351 posts in this topic. You are on page 7 of 8.
    #301 9 months ago

    So I got home yesterday and decided to have the angle modified to fit the IJ. Worked like a charm!

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    1 month later
    #302 8 months ago

    Thanks Vid1900 and everyone else who's shared their ideas regarding a DYI playfield rotisserie! Just finished mine!

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    #303 8 months ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    Clean all the metal with Lacquer Thinner to get all the manufacturing oil off of it.
    Don't skip this step or you will get the dirty oil all over your playfield as you work.
    Prime and spray with a high quality enamel.

    thanks for the guide vid, getting ready to build it this weekend (picked everything up Friday night)...

    I've got a can of Paint Thinner – will that work or won't it be strong enough to take the manufacturing oil off of it?

    #304 8 months ago
    Quoted from crashpad:

    I've got a can of Paint Thinner – will that work or won't it be strong enough to take the manufacturing oil off of it?

    Paint thinner is pretty strong stuff.

    You soak your bike bearings in it to completely remove all the hardened grease from the cages.

    Give it a good rubdown until the paper towel wipes clean.

    Do final degreasing with something fast evaporating like Naphtha, alcohol or Lacquer Thinner and spray the primer.

    Wear gloves and do it outdoors.

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    #305 8 months ago

    Sounds good – I also have Naptha and gloves so I'm set. Thanks again!

    #306 8 months ago

    FYI- zoro.com has the pipe pieces for waaaay cheaper than you will find at Home Depot or Lowes. Also, they offer free shipping over $50, and I usually get parts from them the next day in my locale.

    #307 8 months ago
    Quoted from JodyG:

    FYI- zoro.com has the pipe pieces for waaaay cheaper than you will find at Home Depot or Lowes. Also, they offer free shipping over $50, and I usually get parts from them the next day in my locale.

    You are right, nice tip!!!!

    https://www.zoro.com/search?q=black+pipe

    #308 8 months ago

    Here is Zoro shopping cart, came out to $73
    Untit;;;;led-1 (resized).jpg

    #309 8 months ago

    They occasionally will have some categories 5%-15% off with code over certain order anounts. I think I received 15% off $100 already on a pipe and fitting order to make some hipster light fixtures for my bar/game room.

    #310 8 months ago
    Quoted from JodyG:

    They occasionally will have some categories 5%-15% off with code over certain order anounts. I think I received 15% off $100 already on a pipe and fitting order to make some hipster light fixtures for my bar/game room.

    Thanks guys – I will remember for future orders. Already good to go for this round, but I could definitely enjoy the savings next time!

    4 months later
    #311 3 months ago
    Quoted from crashpad:

    Thanks guys – I will remember for future orders. Already good to go for this round, but I could definitely enjoy the savings next time!

    Roger that. Damn. Wish I would’ve checked back in on this thread before I left. I grabbed everything at Lowe’s and Home Depot.

    I didn’t see that the entire shopping list from Vid’s first post was available on Zoro. Anybody see anything different? I couldn’t find a perforated angle or the Sillcock replacement knobs. I’m already ready to roll, so I’ll probably just stick with what I bought for now and try Zoro next time.

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    #312 3 months ago

    I used a folding miter saw stand I saw in a video thats been circulating on pinside, but instead of the friction swivel plates they used I liked the locking ability of the black pipe version. So here is my hybrid, just needs some paint...

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    #313 3 months ago
    Quoted from Chet:

    I ended up using two stock 1.5" x 1.5" - 24 inch long 14 gauge steel angles from Lowes for my mouting brackets. The 24" long angles accommodate a full wide body playfield without having to cut them cutting.

    I likewise ended up going with a 5’ perforated angle. Cut in half, 30” each, enough to accommodate a Superman PF, which is 28 1/2”.

    #314 3 months ago

    Done. You guys weren’t lying, it was cake. I did use torque knobs in place of the thumb screws on the base. I think I might get this thing powder coated. And add wheels.

    Thanks for posting Vid!

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    #315 3 months ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    Sadly, I saw the Irwin are now made in China, so the $2 clamps at Harbor freight are probably just as good:

    Another great post in here Vid. One 6 inch Irwin clamp at Lowe’s...$19.

    Four 6 inch and two 4 inch clamps at Harbor Freight…$15.94 for all 6.

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    #316 3 months ago
    Quoted from Colsond3:

    Another great post in here Vid. One 6 inch Irwin clamp at Lowe’s...$19.
    Four 6 inch and two 4 inch clamps at Harbor Freight…$15.94 for all 6. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

    No 20% off coupon or free gift. I need your money. Haha . I do need to make a rotisserie.

    2 weeks later
    #317 3 months ago
    Quoted from Colsond3:

    Another great post in here Vid. One 6 inch Irwin clamp at Lowe’s...$19.
    Four 6 inch and two 4 inch clamps at Harbor Freight…$15.94 for all 6. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

    Careful with those HF clamps. I have had them come loose after a few uses for other projects. I bought Irwins for my PF work. Ain't putting my priceless populated PF on a HF clamp no way no how!!!

    #318 3 months ago
    Quoted from wizard_mode:

    Careful with those HF clamps. I have had them come loose after a few uses for other projects. I bought Irwins for my PF work. Ain't putting my priceless populated PF on a HF clamp no way no how!!!

    I gave all my hf clamps away, I don't trust them. Note the block of wood for the Irwin quick grip. One on each corner.

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    #319 3 months ago
    Quoted from Spiderpin:

    I gave all my hf clamps away, I don't trust them. Note the block of wood for the Irwin quick grip. One on each corner.
    [quoted image]

    This is kind of brilliant in a minimalist kind of way. 4 long sliding clamps and you are set.

    #320 3 months ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    Here is Zoro shopping cart, came out to $73
    [quoted image]

    I spent twice that at Home Depot for everything.

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    #321 3 months ago
    Quoted from Scoot:

    I spent twice that at Home Depot for everything.
    [quoted image]

    The word got out about what parts are being used for, supply and demand at it's best

    #322 3 months ago
    Quoted from wizard_mode:

    Careful with those HF clamps. I have had them come loose after a few uses for other projects. I bought Irwins for my PF work. Ain't putting my priceless populated PF on a HF clamp no way no how!!!

    I’ve used them twice already with no issue. But I’ll keep an eye on their stability (or possible instability). Thanks for the heads up.

    1 week later
    #323 82 days ago

    I just built this rotisserie and it is really great, with only two points of feedback/consideration:

    1) I think the 36" pipes are too high, I think using 30" would be more prudent -- this is personal taste though.
    2) Is there any way to really stabilize it? I find that is moves considerably when scrubbing the playfield by hand -- can't imagine with a sander or polisher. I wonder if shimming the bottom tees would do it? It's also possible I need to crank down on the thumb screws more with some pliers. It's just hand tight right now.

    EDIT: I wonder if cranking down two ratchet straps across the 1/2" pipes as close to the tees as possible would do the trick? I'll try it when I get home!

    #324 82 days ago

    I no longer use "C" clamps on my rotisserie anymore. I just take 4 one inch wood screws with washers and screw them into the ends of the playfield through the perforated angle. This is much more secure and eliminates the issue of rotating the rotisserie with the "c" clamps installed. It also raises the playfield up off the perforated angle by about half an inch, to prevent wires and gi sockets from being squashed out near the end of the playfield.

    #325 82 days ago
    Quoted from Scoot:

    I no longer use "C" clamps on my rotisserie anymore. I just take 4 one inch wood screws with washers and screw them into the ends of the playfield through the perforated angle. This is much more secure and eliminates the issue of rotating the rotisserie with the "c" clamps installed. It also raises the playfield up off the perforated angle by about half an inch, to prevent wires and gi sockets from being squashed out near the end of the playfield.

    I have been doing that for a while since there are always parts in the way on the back side of the PF.
    The PF is really more secure like that anyway.

    1 week later
    #326 69 days ago

    OK. Built the rotisserie, based on everyone's recommendations and feed back. Very pleased. Very easy. Might have overlooked it,
    but does anyone have an easy way to put the playfield in the actual rotisserie.

    Have the two sides measured out and set it in the angle iron, then clamp?

    Or clamp the angle iron/flange/pipe to one end, feed it through the side, then adjust the opposite end to fit tight, then clamp?

    I've got my Batman Forever widebody ready, but I don't see this as an easy lift/insertion. Any tips?

    #327 69 days ago

    Obviously having two people is helpful. That’s a heavy playfield. Either way, flying solo, I usually lock the angles flat “around” the correct width, put both sides on, tighten up the one side and clamp it, then go back and clamp and tighten up the other side.

    #328 69 days ago
    Quoted from Colsond3:

    Obviously having two people is helpful. That’s a heavy playfield. Either way, flying solo, I usually lock the angles flat “around” the correct width, put both sides on, tighten up the one side and clamp it, then go back and clamp and tighten up the other side.

    Thank you!

    #329 68 days ago
    Quoted from Colsond3:

    Obviously having two people is helpful. That’s a heavy playfield. Either way, flying solo, I usually lock the angles flat “around” the correct width, put both sides on, tighten up the one side and clamp it, then go back and clamp and tighten up the other side.

    Exactly how I do it as well. I’ll add that it’s worth eyeballing anything attached to the far ends of the playfield sitting on the rails. Usually a few lamp sockets or cable management that has to be removed. Always take pics first before you do.

    #330 68 days ago
    Quoted from dmacy:

    Usually a few lamp sockets or cable management that has to be removed. Always take pics first before you do.

    Definitely check that. Good addition. I was using the ol’ rotisserie working on my Halloween retheme this weekend, and I had to go under and remove a switch and two harness clamps for the small one to fit properly. It wouldn’t fit sideways because of the drop bank.

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    #331 66 days ago

    Getting 1st use from mine I built last year. Guess the game..

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    #332 66 days ago
    Quoted from John_in_NC:

    Getting 1st use from mine I built last year. Guess the game..
    [quoted image]

    1960 Merry-Go-Round

    #333 66 days ago

    Should look like this or better when you finish.

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    #334 66 days ago

    It's getting there

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    #335 66 days ago

    I have a jumping Jack that I want to do. I removed everything 3 weeks ago but have not continued. (Finishing taxes) you're farther along than myself. Looking good

    #336 63 days ago
    Quoted from John_in_NC:

    It's getting there [quoted image]

    Your problem will be when you try to install the rear panel. The perforated angle will get in the way

    #337 57 days ago

    Ok, so I buy all the stuff to make my rotisserie about six months ago, and all I do is clean the stuff up using paint thinner. While cleaning one of the 36" x 3/4" pipes, I hold them up together and find one of them is a few inches shorter, so I have to take it back and get one that actually measures 36".

    Done.

    Decide last week I'm going to bang this job out and paint everything.

    Done.

    Start to try and put it together and find that the 3/4" tee will not attach to the 36" x 3/4" pipe on one end. It will start to thread/connect on the other. Take a closer look and the thread appears to be "smooshed" down at the top, so the tee keeps sliding off and never grabs to attach to the pipe.

    I took it back to Home Depot without a receipt and painted and they swapped it out for another 36" x 3/4" pipe. Before prepping this one for paint, I try to attach a 3/4" tee to one side.

    It fits.

    Take it off and try to attach to the other, and the same issue as the first pipe. Looks like the threads are "smooshed".

    Anyone else have this issue or is there a way around it? Tee won't even start on the pipe to try and some how force it if that is even possible.

    Also, when attaching the tees is there some kind of way to smooth the threading, like adding WD-40 or grease or something to get it to attach easier?

    tee pic (resized).jpeg
    #338 57 days ago

    I hate those big box stores, but at my HD the black pipe have plastic caps on the ends to help prevent that. Though those threads seem to have been cut bad to begin with. Black pipe or any pipe in general has a tapered thread unlike a bolt thread. So you should never have a problem starting them, just a problem having it tightened tight in the right direction. If you return it just grab a fitting in the same dept and try both ends. Good luck.

    #339 57 days ago
    Quoted from crashpad:

    Ok, so I buy all the stuff to make my rotisserie about six months ago, and all I do is clean the stuff up using paint thinner. While cleaning one of the 36" x 3/4" pipes, I hold them up together and find one of them is a few inches shorter, so I have to take it back and get one that actually measures 36".
    Done.
    Decide last week I'm going to bang this job out and paint everything.
    Done.
    Start to try and put it together and find that the 3/4" tee will not attach to the 36" x 3/4" pipe on one end. It will start to thread/connect on the other. Take a closer look and the thread appears to be "smooshed" down at the top, so the tee keeps sliding off and never grabs to attach to the pipe.
    I took it back to Home Depot without a receipt and painted and they swapped it out for another 36" x 3/4" pipe. Before prepping this one for paint, I try to attach a 3/4" tee to one side.
    It fits.
    Take it off and try to attach to the other, and the same issue as the first pipe. Looks like the threads are "smooshed".
    Anyone else have this issue or is there a way around it? Tee won't even start on the pipe to try and some how force it if that is even possible.
    Also, when attaching the tees is there some kind of way to smooth the threading, like adding WD-40 or grease or something to get it to attach easier?[quoted image]

    Clean up the start thread with a chisel, or just peel off the smashed area with pliers.

    It doesnt have to be perfect to engage, just open.

    Its soft steel.

    Or go to home depot and run the end thru the die on their machine.

    Its free
    Pipe thread is tapered. It's not like a machine screw.

    Its supposed to get tighter the deeper you go, so it seals.

    Use pipe wrenches, big ones (12"or bigger) to get more leverage.

    You can use any type of lubricant.
    Pipe dope (rectorseal 5) is a lubricant and sealer.

    But anything will work, lard, salad oil, motor oil etc...

    #340 56 days ago

    KoolFingers and pinballinreno – I am going to return to HD. Ended up going to local ACE hardware and found one that we could fit on both ends when trying it in the store. I'll clean up the ends and then pre-lubricate.

    Thanks for the advice guys!

    1 week later
    #341 49 days ago

    What do people do to cover the ends of the rotisserie to help protect from sharp edges?

    I filed them, but thought there may be a good solution to capping them off.

    One possibility would be to use some of the foam weather stripping, adapting a small piece to put on the ends, but that would be kind of clunky and I'd prefer something like a rubber foot like you use to protect flooring.

    end cap_angle iron (resized).jpeg
    #342 49 days ago
    Quoted from crashpad:

    What do people do to cover the ends of the rotisserie to help protect from sharp edges?
    I filed them, but thought there may be a good solution to capping them off.
    One possibility would be to use some of the foam weather stripping, adapting a small piece to put on the ends, but that would be kind of clunky and I'd prefer something like a rubber foot like you use to protect flooring.
    [quoted image]

    I just ground them smooth and rounded the corners.

    I guess you could tape the edge with gorilla tape but I haven't found it necessary.

    #343 49 days ago

    Look at Amazon or ebay and get the size that fit.

    amazon.com link »

    #344 49 days ago
    Quoted from pinballinreno:

    I just ground them smooth and rounded the corners.
    I guess you could tape the edge with gorilla tape but I haven't found it necessary.

    Okay thanks for the suggestion.

    #345 49 days ago
    Quoted from crashpad:

    What do people do to cover the ends of the rotisserie to help protect from sharp edges?
    I filed them, but thought there may be a good solution to capping them off.
    One possibility would be to use some of the foam weather stripping, adapting a small piece to put on the ends, but that would be kind of clunky and I'd prefer something like a rubber foot like you use to protect flooring.
    [quoted image]

    I sprayed mine with plasti-dip, and it worked great for one use, but the stuff is too easy to peel off.

    #346 49 days ago
    Quoted from jsa:

    I sprayed mine with plasti-dip, and it worked great for one use, but the stuff is too easy to peel off.

    Yes, my neighbor suggested that too. I remember reading where people dipped the entire bottom half for more cushioning.

    #347 49 days ago
    Quoted from crashpad:

    Yes, my neighbor suggested that too. I remember reading where people dipped the entire bottom half for more cushioning.

    I think gorilla tape would work well.

    I use it to cover cut plywood edges for repeated use.

    It sticks like crazy and is very durable.

    I'm thinking of putting it on both sides my rotisserie too.

    Just to make it s little more ergonomic.

    #348 49 days ago
    Quoted from KoolFingers:

    Look at Amazon or ebay and get the size that fit.
    amazon.com link »

    Thanks KoolFingers – found them at ACE Hardware, .50 each. They're discontinuing them, and these were some of the last, so glad I was able to get them before they were gone.

    end cap ACE (resized).jpeg
    #349 43 days ago

    Final product – thanks to Vid, pinball Mike D and everyone that replied to my questions and gave advice. Painted in Arizona State University colors and ready for its first playfield to begin restoring (either Mata Hari or Freedom)...

    IMG_2583 (resized).jpegIMG_2584 (resized).jpeg
    #350 37 days ago

    Thanks Vid, wherever you are!

    369F1076-941C-4B13-B52F-F4B1DF62E20D (resized).jpeg
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