Ok, one small piece of advice - tighten the threads as tight as you possibly can on the black pipe. Of course you'll have to line them up, but twist those things until you can't any more, and then twist them some more. Fortunately with the purchased pipes you have plenty of leverage.
Also, I replaced the floor thumb screws with faucet handles and carriage bolts. It was just easier that way instead of pliers-tightening the thumbscrews. Cheaper silcock handles were available from my local Home Depot.
Here is my version. I had the stand for my chop saw barely used it. it'll get used now though. Very stable due to the weight of the folding stand. It will accept a wide body too. Just did a Sttng even with everything still in place , I still could rotate it with just enough room to clear. I found it handy to lower the PF when flat so my arms were at a more comfortable height. I changed the wing nuts to the WPC style and ground them to a point to grab more I also sunk shallow set 'holes' or points. It don't move now. I made the points on one end of the 1/2" pipe that rotates at 90 degrees and 180. There end got the 45 degrees points. I'll get some pics of that soon. I found the 1" EMT conduit to be just the right fit for the square holes. The 3/4" riser fit just right too. Nice and snug I added a screw to lock it anyway though. Again pic needed of that. Nothing under foot is nice. I like the post above using the feed rollers. I only had one so no real attempt was made. THANKS thanks for letting me share and the great idea to begin with!
Quoted from Wolfus:Here is my version. I had the stand for my chop saw barely used it. it'll get used now though. Very stable due to the weight of the folding stand. It will accept a wide body too. Just did a Sttng even with everything still in place , I still could rotate it with just enough room to clear. I found it handy to lower the PF when flat so my arms were at a more comfortable height. I changed the wing nuts to the WPC style and ground them to a point to grab more I also sunk shallow set 'holes' or points. It don't move now. I made the points on one end of the 1/2" pipe that rotates at 90 degrees and 180. There end got the 45 degrees points. I'll get some pics of that soon. I found the 1" EMT conduit to be just the right fit for the square holes. The 3/4" riser fit just right too. Nice and snug I added a screw to lock it anyway though. Again pic needed of that. Nothing under foot is nice. I like the post above using the feed rollers. I only had one so no real attempt was made. THANKS thanks for letting me share and the great idea to begin with!
This is the best rotisserie I've used.... And I could stand to borrow it again if it's available
Quoted from Aladdin:Here’s a simple fix for collapsing saw horses. Another use for HF clamps
Have you tried to remove the plastic knob and reverse the fixed head, then reverse the ratchet end?
It becomes a spreader.....
Quoted from northerndude:My first one, thx for the basics, I modified with the materials I had to save some dough. Cost me about $55-60
Very nice job, I am going to be making mine soon! Just got my CPR TAF, now I gotta get to work
Anyone had trouble getting their playfield to "lock" properly? I feel like there is too much give with the pipes.
Quoted from jsa:I feel like there is too much give with the pipes
Use a pipe wrench and really torque the sections together.
I used brute strength and body weight and leverage to get them as tight as possible.
Quoted from Atari_Daze:Use a pipe wrench and really torque the sections together.
I used brute strength and body weight and leverage to get them as tight as possible.
The pipes are locked in place, the issue is the 1/2 pipe turning inside the 3/4" pipe...The screw-down tightening as enough play that it wiggles a bit. I need to think of a way to improve that connection.
Quoted from jsa:, the issue is the 1/2 pipe turning inside the 3/4" pipe...
Ah, yes. I used 3/8 bolts on mine, again torque quite significantly. Almost wished I had used 2 bolts per!
Quoted from Atari_Daze:Ah, yes. I used 3/8 bolts on mine, again torque quite significantly. Almost wished I had used 2 bolts per!
I tried making a hole for the carriage bolt to notch into, but that actually made it worse. Don't do that. It would only work if the 1/2 pipe was "seamless" into the 3/4" pipe, which it's not.
You could drill right through, and give yourself a couple different angles, but it wouldn't be able to do all the angles
I ended up drilling a few indentations just enough to allow it to snug up firm when tightened. I only bothered with two positions but you could do several. It’s helped mine.
I too am having an issue with the perpendicular pipe have some wiggle. No matter how hard i try to tighten the bottom horizontal pipes, I still get a little play. Is this normal? I am guessing once i have a playfield clamped into it tightly it will be more stable, but this worries me. Anyone else over come this?
Quoted from Elicash:I too am having an issue with the perpendicular pipe have some wiggle. No matter how hard i try to tighten the bottom horizontal pipes, I still get a little play. Is this normal?
The two long pipes are only being held in place by the tiny amount of contact from the thumbscrews.
Once the playfield is clamped, you have your closed frame, and everything is stiffened up.
Think of a cardboard box, when the top flaps are open, the box can be flexed out of square easily. When the flaps are shut, the box is many times stiffer.
Quoted from KornFreak28:Any pics or ideas on how to secure the playfield once the rear panel installed?
What game?
Pics?
Quoted from vid1900:What game?
Pics?
Well, I’m currently doing my IJ playfield and once I installed the rear panel, there was no way to secure the rear area because the rear panel gets in the way
Quoted from KornFreak28:Well, I’m currently doing my IJ playfield and once I installed the rear panel, there was no way to secure the rear area because the rear panel gets in the way
You can clamp to the top of the rear panel, or just clamp to the side rails.
This is what I did from vid's rotisserie guide to prevent threads from stripping when adjusting play field.
"You could get a better grade of bolt (a "grade 8" bolt would be much stronger than the grade 0 bolt from China Depot)."
"You could move up in bolt size to a 5/16" bolt."
I just use a crescent wrench rather than faucet knobs to tighten and loosen.
I just stole these plans and put my own twist on it. Made it a height adjustable from 33" to 52" tall depending on if I'm sitting or standing to work.
Parts list
2 each 3/4" X 3/4" X 1/2" "T"
2 each 1/2" floor flange
2 each 1/2” nipple 3.5" long
2 each 1/2" cap
2 each 1" Floor flange
1 each 1/2" X 4' Pipe (cut in half)
1 each 1" X 60" pipe (cut in half)
2 each 2x4 for base - 26”
1 each 1x4 for base - 48”
4 each 5/16th locking screws with knobs 2 < 1” long 2 = 2” long
2 each Perforated angle steel - 22”
8 each countersink screws for base
4 each 1/4” carriage bolts - 1/2” long
4 each 1/4” locking nuts
4 each T nuts for base feet
4 each pinball feet
2 colors of paint
All in about $100
The largest variation to the previously prescribed instructions:
I used 3/4" X 3/4" X 1/2" "T"s vs 3/4" X 3/4" X 3/4" - The support leg is 1/2" pipe 24" long (1/2 the 4' pipe) The 1/2" slips into the 1" pipe that is 30" long (1/2 the 60" pipe) which naturally will require the larger and sturdier 1" floor flanges.
I painted the 1/2" pipe red at the bottom for max height level to assure I don't exceed the lockdown screw I installed in the 1" pipe on the non-threaded end. I used the protective plastic caps that came with the 1" pipe to cover the sharp edge there.
I installed "T nuts" in the 2X4 base to allow leveling and it lets me use my skates to make the loaded rotisserie easy to move around.
The whole thing breaks down to 3 pieces in 10 seconds stores flat.
Will be attaching uquick clamps when they arrive
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Quoted from jsa:Anyone had trouble getting their playfield to "lock" properly? I feel like there is too much give with the pipes.
Quoted from Wolfus:I found it handy to lower the PF when flat so my arms were at a more comfortable height. I changed the wing nuts to the WPC style and ground them to a point to grab more I also sunk shallow set 'holes' or points. It don't move now. I made the points on one end of the 1/2" pipe that rotates at 90 degrees and 180. The other end got the 45 degrees points.
I found I also tended to use a wrench to tighten them anyway.
I also found the height did have alot to play in the fatigue factor. If I lowered the rotating center line then I could not rotate it. Moving a fully loaded pf up and down was not much fun.
I like the adjustable height method of @John_in_NC. But worry that these last couple shown were getting to be too 'light duty'.
Again get a fully loaded pf on there and hope it stays put.
Mine flexxed where the round pipes went in the square holes. I added shims.
Thanks Pinballmike217 and Vid1900 for the instructions on this. I started the rotisserie project today and I've found out that my tapping skills are severely lacking. I think I had maybe 1 that I did that was actually done straight.
Quoted from John_in_NC:All done. I'll use these clamps 90% of the time, will remove if I need for playfields with apron and arch installed. When clanps engaged, they do not impede the rotation of the playfield.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Scratch the clamps, pretty much useless unless it's an empty PF. I removed them and am using mini bar clamps like epeabs. Small and easy to use.
Quoted from John_in_NC:Scratch the clamps, pretty much useless unless it's an empty PF. I removed them and am using mini bar clamps like epeabs. Small and easy to use.
I'm with you on this. The clams are useless once the rear panel and rails are installed. Can you share some pics of what you are using?
Vid,
Any idea on how to deal with the area that gets covered by the angle? On my IJ there's stuff that needs to be installed in that area but can't because it's covered by the angle iron. The rear panel doesn't help either, it gets in the way big time! The rear panel must be installed in order for me to finish the top of the playfield. I had to cut out sections of the angle just to secure the playfield but I just don't see how I can cut the angle on the bottom of the playfield to install the stuff that goes in that area. Any help is much appreciated! Thanks!
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I'm certain Vid and others have much better ways, but all I've usually done is either wait until I'm done (and those few items are only things left) and install them after pulling playfield off the rotisserie. I set it up on end safely off of rotisserie, and install what is needed. But I understand that's not always helpful when you have the back panel that needs installed for putting the back half together.
In that case, I've undid that end from the angle iron after locking the other side from spinning (and verifying the other side is still firmly/safely attached) and gently move the playfield up with something to hold it up while attaching what is needed or slightly moving the playfield to the side to attach what I need. Even still, it usually won't have all screws attached until it's off the rotisserie.
Quoted from dmacy:I'm certain Vid and others have much better ways, but all I've usually done is either wait until I'm done (and those few items are only things left) and install them after pulling playfield off the rotisserie. I set it up on end safely off of rotisserie, and install what is needed. But I understand that's not always helpful when you have the back panel that needs installed for putting the back half together.
In that case, I've undid that end from the angle iron after locking the other side from spinning (and verifying the other side is still firmly/safely attached) and gently move the playfield up with something to hold it up while attaching what is needed or slightly moving the playfield to the side to attach what I need. Even still, it usually won't have all screws attached until it's off the rotisserie.
Yeah, looks like that may be the only way to address that area Thanks!
Quoted from Soapman:Could you put the angle on the sides?
That would probably work if you don't have the rear panel installed. With the rear panel installed there are only 2 access points from the rear where I can clamp and secure the playfield to the rotisserie. If I just put the angle on the sides, there is no way for me to safely secure the playfield. Again, the rear panel makes this very challenging.
Sometimes I use a few zip ties and let the playfield hang down a few inches until I'm done with that section.
Other times, since my angle iron is perforated, I use 2 pieces of threaded rod.
Quoted from vid1900:Sometimes I use a few zip ties and let the playfield hang down a few inches until I'm done with that section.
Other times, since my angle iron is perforated, I use 2 pieces of threaded rod.
I tried using big zip ties but again, the rear panel gets in the way. There are no access points on IJ. The POA motor and bracket also get in the way. I cut and modified a piece of perforated angle to fit the IJ but in the end, the angle is still blocking access to stuff that needs to be installed in the middle section of the playfield. The angle also got super weak because of the modifications I made. That's the reason why I switched to solid angle. I truly believe this is a good rotisserie idea until the rear panel gets installed. Again, I'm only talking about IJ here. Has anybody made a rotisserie that secures the playfield from the sides and doesn't block the middle section of the playfield? Thanks!
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