(Topic ID: 20666)

VID's Quick and Dirty Rotisserie Guide


By vid1900

7 years ago



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  • Latest reply 62 days ago by wizard_mode
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    There are 352 posts in this topic. You are on page 6 of 8.
    #251 2 years ago

    And here it is. Turned out pretty good - can't wait to ruin this Firepower playfield.

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    #252 2 years ago

    This is my take on this. Some creative work with the side grinder on a metal saw horse. I ended up with a ultra portable rotisserie, that disassemble in to 4 small pieces.
    Cheers
    /mima

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    #253 2 years ago

    Ok, one small piece of advice - tighten the threads as tight as you possibly can on the black pipe. Of course you'll have to line them up, but twist those things until you can't any more, and then twist them some more. Fortunately with the purchased pipes you have plenty of leverage.

    Also, I replaced the floor thumb screws with faucet handles and carriage bolts. It was just easier that way instead of pliers-tightening the thumbscrews. Cheaper silcock handles were available from my local Home Depot.

    3 months later
    #254 1 year ago

    In the spirit of "quick and dirty," I am mounting mine to some height adjustable outfeed rollers I already had.

    Thanks for the great guide.

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    #255 1 year ago

    Here’s a simple fix for collapsing saw horses. Another use for HF clamps

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    #256 1 year ago

    Here is my version. I had the stand for my chop saw barely used it. it'll get used now though. Very stable due to the weight of the folding stand. It will accept a wide body too. Just did a Sttng even with everything still in place , I still could rotate it with just enough room to clear. I found it handy to lower the PF when flat so my arms were at a more comfortable height. I changed the wing nuts to the WPC style and ground them to a point to grab more I also sunk shallow set 'holes' or points. It don't move now. I made the points on one end of the 1/2" pipe that rotates at 90 degrees and 180. There end got the 45 degrees points. I'll get some pics of that soon. I found the 1" EMT conduit to be just the right fit for the square holes. The 3/4" riser fit just right too. Nice and snug I added a screw to lock it anyway though. Again pic needed of that. Nothing under foot is nice. I like the post above using the feed rollers. I only had one so no real attempt was made. THANKS thanks for letting me share and the great idea to begin with!

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    #257 1 year ago
    Quoted from Wolfus:

    Here is my version. I had the stand for my chop saw barely used it. it'll get used now though. Very stable due to the weight of the folding stand. It will accept a wide body too. Just did a Sttng even with everything still in place , I still could rotate it with just enough room to clear. I found it handy to lower the PF when flat so my arms were at a more comfortable height. I changed the wing nuts to the WPC style and ground them to a point to grab more I also sunk shallow set 'holes' or points. It don't move now. I made the points on one end of the 1/2" pipe that rotates at 90 degrees and 180. There end got the 45 degrees points. I'll get some pics of that soon. I found the 1" EMT conduit to be just the right fit for the square holes. The 3/4" riser fit just right too. Nice and snug I added a screw to lock it anyway though. Again pic needed of that. Nothing under foot is nice. I like the post above using the feed rollers. I only had one so no real attempt was made. THANKS thanks for letting me share and the great idea to begin with!

    This is the best rotisserie I've used.... And I could stand to borrow it again if it's available

    #258 1 year ago
    Quoted from Aladdin:

    Here’s a simple fix for collapsing saw horses. Another use for HF clamps

    Have you tried to remove the plastic knob and reverse the fixed head, then reverse the ratchet end?

    It becomes a spreader.....

    1 week later
    #259 1 year ago

    Awesome job Wolfus. Everybody has a miter saw bench.

    3 weeks later
    #260 1 year ago

    My first one, thx for the basics, I modified with the materials I had to save some dough. Cost me about $55-60

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    #261 1 year ago
    Quoted from northerndude:

    My first one, thx for the basics, I modified with the materials I had to save some dough. Cost me about $55-60

    Very nice job, I am going to be making mine soon! Just got my CPR TAF, now I gotta get to work

    #262 1 year ago

    Very nice job northerndude

    #263 1 year ago

    Inspired by northerndude's rotisserie, but most importantly all the info vid and others have shared.

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    #264 1 year ago

    Inspired by many posts here, mine is mounted to the top of a Husky tool cart. When the main posts are tall enough for a widebody, it's a bit high off the ground. It's fine for me (I'm 6'2) but I could see this being a back breaker for a shorter person.

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    1 week later
    #265 1 year ago

    Thx vid1900 !!!

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    #266 1 year ago

    Anyone had trouble getting their playfield to "lock" properly? I feel like there is too much give with the pipes.

    #267 1 year ago
    Quoted from jsa:

    I feel like there is too much give with the pipes

    Use a pipe wrench and really torque the sections together.
    I used brute strength and body weight and leverage to get them as tight as possible.

    #268 1 year ago
    Quoted from Atari_Daze:

    Use a pipe wrench and really torque the sections together.
    I used brute strength and body weight and leverage to get them as tight as possible.

    The pipes are locked in place, the issue is the 1/2 pipe turning inside the 3/4" pipe...The screw-down tightening as enough play that it wiggles a bit. I need to think of a way to improve that connection.

    #269 1 year ago
    Quoted from jsa:

    , the issue is the 1/2 pipe turning inside the 3/4" pipe...

    Ah, yes. I used 3/8 bolts on mine, again torque quite significantly. Almost wished I had used 2 bolts per!

    #270 1 year ago
    Quoted from Atari_Daze:

    Ah, yes. I used 3/8 bolts on mine, again torque quite significantly. Almost wished I had used 2 bolts per!

    I tried making a hole for the carriage bolt to notch into, but that actually made it worse. Don't do that. It would only work if the 1/2 pipe was "seamless" into the 3/4" pipe, which it's not.

    #271 1 year ago

    You could drill right through, and give yourself a couple different angles, but it wouldn't be able to do all the angles

    #272 1 year ago

    I ended up drilling a few indentations just enough to allow it to snug up firm when tightened. I only bothered with two positions but you could do several. It’s helped mine.

    1 month later
    #273 1 year ago

    Thanks for the tutorial. Decided to make mine multi-purpose. It doubles as sawhorses when not doing playfield work. LOL

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    #274 1 year ago

    Any pics or ideas on how to secure the playfield once the rear panel installed?

    2 weeks later
    #275 1 year ago

    For those who don't want to drill in the cabinet. Here's a very simple trick.

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    #276 1 year ago

    I too am having an issue with the perpendicular pipe have some wiggle. No matter how hard i try to tighten the bottom horizontal pipes, I still get a little play. Is this normal? I am guessing once i have a playfield clamped into it tightly it will be more stable, but this worries me. Anyone else over come this?

    2 weeks later
    #277 1 year ago
    Quoted from Elicash:

    I too am having an issue with the perpendicular pipe have some wiggle. No matter how hard i try to tighten the bottom horizontal pipes, I still get a little play. Is this normal?

    The two long pipes are only being held in place by the tiny amount of contact from the thumbscrews.

    Once the playfield is clamped, you have your closed frame, and everything is stiffened up.

    Think of a cardboard box, when the top flaps are open, the box can be flexed out of square easily. When the flaps are shut, the box is many times stiffer.

    #278 1 year ago
    Quoted from KornFreak28:

    Any pics or ideas on how to secure the playfield once the rear panel installed?

    What game?

    Pics?

    #279 1 year ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    What game?
    Pics?

    Well, I’m currently doing my IJ playfield and once I installed the rear panel, there was no way to secure the rear area because the rear panel gets in the way

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    #280 1 year ago
    Quoted from KornFreak28:

    Well, I’m currently doing my IJ playfield and once I installed the rear panel, there was no way to secure the rear area because the rear panel gets in the way

    You can clamp to the top of the rear panel, or just clamp to the side rails.

    #281 1 year ago

    This is what I did from vid's rotisserie guide to prevent threads from stripping when adjusting play field.

    "You could get a better grade of bolt (a "grade 8" bolt would be much stronger than the grade 0 bolt from China Depot)."
    "You could move up in bolt size to a 5/16" bolt."

    I just use a crescent wrench rather than faucet knobs to tighten and loosen.

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    #282 1 year ago

    If you need more leverage, but don't want to always have to reach for a wrench, you can get T-bolts (sometimes called T-Strap) for $2 at any real hardware store.

    They come in 1/4, 3/8, 5/16 and 3/4" sizes

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    2 weeks later
    #283 1 year ago

    Father/Son project rotisserie! My Dad got all the metal bits from his job site, and wood was cheap at the local big box store.
    I like the locking collars myself.

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    #284 1 year ago

    Made mine to be removable from my bench. When it's removed, it's much easier to put it away because it is not a stand alone unit.

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    1 week later
    #285 1 year ago

    I just stole these plans and put my own twist on it. Made it a height adjustable from 33" to 52" tall depending on if I'm sitting or standing to work.

    Parts list
    2 each 3/4" X 3/4" X 1/2" "T"
    2 each 1/2" floor flange
    2 each 1/2” nipple 3.5" long
    2 each 1/2" cap
    2 each 1" Floor flange
    1 each 1/2" X 4' Pipe (cut in half)
    1 each 1" X 60" pipe (cut in half)
    2 each 2x4 for base - 26”
    1 each 1x4 for base - 48”
    4 each 5/16th locking screws with knobs 2 < 1” long 2 = 2” long
    2 each Perforated angle steel - 22”
    8 each countersink screws for base
    4 each 1/4” carriage bolts - 1/2” long
    4 each 1/4” locking nuts
    4 each T nuts for base feet
    4 each pinball feet
    2 colors of paint

    All in about $100

    The largest variation to the previously prescribed instructions:
    I used 3/4" X 3/4" X 1/2" "T"s vs 3/4" X 3/4" X 3/4" - The support leg is 1/2" pipe 24" long (1/2 the 4' pipe) The 1/2" slips into the 1" pipe that is 30" long (1/2 the 60" pipe) which naturally will require the larger and sturdier 1" floor flanges.

    I painted the 1/2" pipe red at the bottom for max height level to assure I don't exceed the lockdown screw I installed in the 1" pipe on the non-threaded end. I used the protective plastic caps that came with the 1" pipe to cover the sharp edge there.

    I installed "T nuts" in the 2X4 base to allow leveling and it lets me use my skates to make the loaded rotisserie easy to move around.
    The whole thing breaks down to 3 pieces in 10 seconds stores flat.

    Will be attaching uquick clamps when they arrive

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    #286 1 year ago

    All done. I'll use these clamps 90% of the time, will remove if I need for playfields with apron and arch installed. When clanps engaged, they do not impede the rotation of the playfield.

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    3 weeks later
    #287 1 year ago
    Quoted from jsa:

    Anyone had trouble getting their playfield to "lock" properly? I feel like there is too much give with the pipes.

    Quoted from Wolfus:

    I found it handy to lower the PF when flat so my arms were at a more comfortable height. I changed the wing nuts to the WPC style and ground them to a point to grab more I also sunk shallow set 'holes' or points. It don't move now. I made the points on one end of the 1/2" pipe that rotates at 90 degrees and 180. The other end got the 45 degrees points.

    I found I also tended to use a wrench to tighten them anyway.
    I also found the height did have alot to play in the fatigue factor. If I lowered the rotating center line then I could not rotate it. Moving a fully loaded pf up and down was not much fun.
    I like the adjustable height method of John_in_NC. But worry that these last couple shown were getting to be too 'light duty'.
    Again get a fully loaded pf on there and hope it stays put.
    Mine flexxed where the round pipes went in the square holes. I added shims.

    1 month later
    #288 1 year ago

    Thanks Pinballmike217 and Vid1900 for the instructions on this. I started the rotisserie project today and I've found out that my tapping skills are severely lacking. I think I had maybe 1 that I did that was actually done straight.

    #289 1 year ago
    Quoted from John_in_NC:

    All done. I'll use these clamps 90% of the time, will remove if I need for playfields with apron and arch installed. When clanps engaged, they do not impede the rotation of the playfield.
    [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

    Scratch the clamps, pretty much useless unless it's an empty PF. I removed them and am using mini bar clamps like epeabs. Small and easy to use.

    #290 1 year ago
    Quoted from John_in_NC:

    Scratch the clamps, pretty much useless unless it's an empty PF. I removed them and am using mini bar clamps like epeabs. Small and easy to use.

    I'm with you on this. The clams are useless once the rear panel and rails are installed. Can you share some pics of what you are using?

    #291 1 year ago

    These, got them at Lowes

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    4 weeks later
    #292 11 months ago

    Vid,

    Any idea on how to deal with the area that gets covered by the angle? On my IJ there's stuff that needs to be installed in that area but can't because it's covered by the angle iron. The rear panel doesn't help either, it gets in the way big time! The rear panel must be installed in order for me to finish the top of the playfield. I had to cut out sections of the angle just to secure the playfield but I just don't see how I can cut the angle on the bottom of the playfield to install the stuff that goes in that area. Any help is much appreciated! Thanks!
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    #293 11 months ago

    I'm certain Vid and others have much better ways, but all I've usually done is either wait until I'm done (and those few items are only things left) and install them after pulling playfield off the rotisserie. I set it up on end safely off of rotisserie, and install what is needed. But I understand that's not always helpful when you have the back panel that needs installed for putting the back half together.

    In that case, I've undid that end from the angle iron after locking the other side from spinning (and verifying the other side is still firmly/safely attached) and gently move the playfield up with something to hold it up while attaching what is needed or slightly moving the playfield to the side to attach what I need. Even still, it usually won't have all screws attached until it's off the rotisserie.

    #294 11 months ago
    Quoted from dmacy:

    I'm certain Vid and others have much better ways, but all I've usually done is either wait until I'm done (and those few items are only things left) and install them after pulling playfield off the rotisserie. I set it up on end safely off of rotisserie, and install what is needed. But I understand that's not always helpful when you have the back panel that needs installed for putting the back half together.
    In that case, I've undid that end from the angle iron after locking the other side from spinning (and verifying the other side is still firmly/safely attached) and gently move the playfield up with something to hold it up while attaching what is needed or slightly moving the playfield to the side to attach what I need. Even still, it usually won't have all screws attached until it's off the rotisserie.

    Yeah, looks like that may be the only way to address that area Thanks!

    #295 11 months ago

    Could you put the angle on the sides?

    #296 11 months ago
    Quoted from Soapman:

    Could you put the angle on the sides?

    That would probably work if you don't have the rear panel installed. With the rear panel installed there are only 2 access points from the rear where I can clamp and secure the playfield to the rotisserie. If I just put the angle on the sides, there is no way for me to safely secure the playfield. Again, the rear panel makes this very challenging.

    #297 11 months ago

    Sometimes I use a few zip ties and let the playfield hang down a few inches until I'm done with that section.

    Other times, since my angle iron is perforated, I use 2 pieces of threaded rod.

    #298 11 months ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    Sometimes I use a few zip ties and let the playfield hang down a few inches until I'm done with that section.
    Other times, since my angle iron is perforated, I use 2 pieces of threaded rod.

    I tried using big zip ties but again, the rear panel gets in the way. There are no access points on IJ. The POA motor and bracket also get in the way. I cut and modified a piece of perforated angle to fit the IJ but in the end, the angle is still blocking access to stuff that needs to be installed in the middle section of the playfield. The angle also got super weak because of the modifications I made. That's the reason why I switched to solid angle. I truly believe this is a good rotisserie idea until the rear panel gets installed. Again, I'm only talking about IJ here. Has anybody made a rotisserie that secures the playfield from the sides and doesn't block the middle section of the playfield? Thanks!

    #299 11 months ago

    Just install 2 small screw-eyes in the wood anywhere that they are out of the way

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    Or use a Z-bracket

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    Or 2" Pipe Strap

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    Or any threaded rod contraption you can think of

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    Or.....

    #300 11 months ago

    Good idea no the Z-bracket! I may have to go that route. Thanks!!!!

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