So the recommendation is to let them dry for 3 weeks? Holy smoke... Same for coin door I assume?

Hopefully not for cabinet before putting decals on right?

I didn't realize that it dismantles. Next swap I think I'll give that design a try - will probably collapse even smaller than my one.

No, couldn't find any. Been putting it off, but so far it's been ok. Just a lot of labeling and photos. I can let u know any issues I run into. Should be done this weekend.

Actually so far I've been really impressed with the JJP build - lots of easily removable connectors, and the light boards are all numbered. Most of the under pf screws are all the same also.

That's what I have thought just looking at it. After the upper playfields are removed it seems pretty simple. Only thing I'm worried about is the harness being a mess as its not clean like a B/W game. Best of luck with the rest of the swap.

You guys are BOTH doing WOZ swaps already?!?

I'm not, just mentally preparing.

I have already stripped out one of the threaded holes in the top rotator. It's hard to get them tight enough so that the field doesn't move under pressure. Gotta come up with a solution for that. I drilled the holes through and am using a giant clip pin but it's to loose as well...

Does anyone have any recommendations how to drill the holes before using the tap? I am using a hand drill and the drill bit that came with the tap and die set I bought (just a small $20 one from Menards). The hole starts drilling but then it just seems to stall and the bit just starts spinning in the hole. I'm using oil to lubricate the bit and I'm drilling into the T connectors (the black piping) so it's not the hardest metal on the planet so trying to figure out what I should be doing differently.

Instead of using oil you can use wax. Not as messy, agree on getting a new bit. Buy cobalt when drilling into metal.

I am feeling a lot better selling my WOZ NIB. I would be livid having paid $8K and getting this.

I got my rotisserie together but didnt drill or tap the holes yet. I can drill but never tapper anything before besides girls and an occasional donkey. Maybe i missed it but is there some simple instructions on how to use the 1/4-20 thread tap thats needed for this project? Thanks alot!

Drill the hole using a #7 bit. You can tap using a drill but you really have to baby it or your tap can snap. They have hand tap holders or just use a crescent wrench if feeling cheap. You can apply wax to the tap to help it cut. I like wax over oil because it's not as messy. Turn and let off and turn again, if it gets too hard to cut the lap back it out a little and the. cut again. The metal is fairly soft so shouldn't be too difficult to do.

thanks Taylor! worked great with wrench and wax actually. those pipe elbows are really soft metal. Your wax solution is great, motor oil isnt something i keep in my game room pinball parts but wax is! lol and its less messy
tomorrow its time for primer

Excellent, happy to help.

My idea of enhancements...well one, anyway.

I stripped and wallowed out my thumbscrew hole, so I tried to enlarge it to accept a large cotter pin. That was a disaster with a handheld. Asked a friend of mine (gunsmith) who had a drill press to drill the thumbscrew hole in the shoulder of the joint where there's more material (thanks vid!) and also a hole that goes right through both that accepts the cotter pin nice and tightly. Now I can lean on the playfield or whatever and that thing is NOT GOING ANYWHERE. I found myself having to retighten the thumbscrews over and over and still the field would rotate a bit as I worked on it. Now I just tighten the thumbscrews enough to hold it in place while I insert the cotter pin. MUCH more stable and zero slippage.

Thanks to vid and the other fella that published the plans.

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Vid, thanks for the guide. Here's my version. Fairly straight forward. Had to use the red plastidip -- red is my color.

Question: How to do LED swaps on the rotisserie? I know certain LEDs only work one way, i.e. if it doesn't work, flip the contacts around and reinsert.

I typically use coin taker LEDs, for this particular project I will need the Alltek (sp?) driver board.

I'm sure it's an easy answer I haven't thought of. Thanks.

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What about controlled lamps? Or is that just a gamble? Sorry for hijacking rotisserie thread...

Decided It was finely time to build this tool. I plan on putting xenon on rotissere and should finish that project much faster.

Only issue I encountered was not finding the correct Silcock Replacement knobs. Menards knob didn't have knobs with the square holes.. Probably should modify list and say need ones with square holes to fit carriage bolts. Of course this is explained later...

Completed: this produces adequate torque.
Silcock Replacement Knob at Menards - Found this in Store.
Danco Universal Outdoor Faucet Handle -

http://www.menards.com/main/plumbing/rough-plumbing/plumbing-installation-repair/faucet-repair/faucet-handles-accessories/danco-universal-outdoor-faucet-handle/p-1444428620410-c-8539.htm?tid=-2403770376684477386

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Yeah, I used the eyebolts or whatever they're called. Those thumbscrews in the first incarnation in this thread just didn't make it.

Thanks again for the how-to. I have a field in mine right now that will save me enough time to bring it to SFGE.

Just built my own, originally inspired by this design. I used scrap wood I had on hand for the base and to save on cost. I found a structural pipe tee to use instead that didn't require drilling or any of the silcock knob business (http://www.lowes.com/pd/B-K-3-4-in-x-3-4-in-x-3-4-in-90-Degree-Gray-Galvanized-Steel-Structural-Pipe-Fitting-Tee/999930890), just an allen wrench to tighten. Instead of clamps I used 2' pieces of wood and thumb screws/wing nuts.

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I don't, it's quite large though and not sure it's helpful unless folks get the exact same piece. The nipple piece in the middle of the tee is 3/4" which is different from the original design too. I do like having two points of contact to tighten. One other subtlety of note is that there is slippage in one direction with it only being moderately tightened down. To help I oriented the tee on the opposite side in the opposite direction. It's slightly visible in the picture.

I think I'll be looking to attach the rotating part to my sawhorse. These type. I would save the whole lower assembly.

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Basically, it would only lay on top and secured to it so I don't knock one over sending the playfield to the ground.

Would make the whole thing pretty compact when not needed. As I already have the saw horse anyway.

So I guess instead of using a Tee I would use something else, not sure what since but the hardware store should have something.

That would be perfect!

(nice photoshop job!)

Like this:

image.jpg

here is one that folds flat swivel legs for easy storage

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This guide was a great help. Built one of these a few weeks ago. Current Home Depot prices worked out to about $120 or so for all materials iirc.

Will come in handy for a Black Knight cpr pf swap next month.

Does anyone in the Dallas area have a rotisserie that they would be willing to loan to me to complete a project? I am currently working on a LW3 restore and would love to use one of these but I just don't see me needing to use one after this project. Never hurts to ask.

I'm just here for the chicken.

There's chicken? Yum!

Sorry TxJay I can't help you. I am going to just chalk up the construction of these (some day) to the cost of a playfield restoration, but maybe I will take your lead and ask the same when the day comes.

So for your build described here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-quick-and-dirty-rotisserie-guide/page/5#post-3237765

Did you use 3/4" pipe running down from the tee to the floor ((b/c your tee has an unthreaded 3/4" opening)? Or is that 1/2" pipe ? And either way, have you found the allen screw holds it sufficiently steady (I like the no-drill approach, but wonder whether it won't have less stability than the original design with a threaded tee that screws onto the pipe down to the floor).

I'm pretty sure it was 3/4" pipe from the tee to the floor/base. It was plenty stable, especially when both ends of the playfield were clamped in. The two screws that came with the tee on each side did fine holding a fully loaded pf. However, when only one side was screwed in tight there was slippage if pushed in one direction. To fix that I oriented the tee on the other side so the screws came in from the opposite direction.

You guys are the best! Thanks for this fantastic thread!

I bought my first pin, a Williams #Space Shuttle in pretty rough shape, and was referred here to learn how to make a rotisserie to work on it.

What a life-saver! As promised, it took less than an hour to assemble and cost about $80 in parts. Mine was a little cheaper because I made a bench-top version for my workbench, as I don't have enough room in my basement for a free-standing unit.

Thank you; what a magnificent tool; it even made it easy for my daughter to work on it with me!

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I've got my shopping list printed out and am headed to the hardware store after work to buy and build me up one of these so I can start to work on this playfield.
Thanks Vid for the useful intel!

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Sweet, thanks!

I had seen your ball guide thread but not the target one.

Okay guys I need your advice! I'm brand new to pin restoration, and am fixing to do my first fully shopped pin (Stern Lightning). I have VERY limited space, so here is what I'm asking for:

1) The best FOLDABLE or storable rotisserie plans that you've seen. I need it to store next to wall and still be stable, so I'm looking for the smallest "foot print" (floor space) I can find.
2) I would like to add 2 adjustable arms to the rotisserie that can pivot over the play field, which will hold a small tray in each arm. I want to put small bolts, washers, parts in these 2 trays/tables. Plus these 2 arms can not add any more distance to the rotisserie either. I will barely have enough room to set up the rotisserie, so I can't add any additional length to the working area.
3) Are there any posts that I missed that has step-by-step video, PDF, or pics? yea, yea, yea, The one post that had PDF files is a "dead link." I know it's really easy blah, blah, blah. But everyone on here probably has 100's of hours restoring pins and building stuff, but I'm that newbie that barely knows how to "scratch my butt" right now. I'm looking for the most thorough easy to understand instructions to make this project fun and not a "pain in the butt."

I saw the one post that added bins on each side but this takes up too much room. I only have room to work on restoring one pin at a time in my 12' X12' room, which already houses 3 pins, and one full size Sega Outrun 2.

Yes I've seen one in action, but I should have mentioned that when there is a play field in the rotisserie that I wanted it to take up as little room as possible. I was thinking then that maybe I could make the legs swivel so when there is a play field in it, then I could push it against the wall, and only have the les that are away from the wall angled outward. The legs against the wall would be swiveled to be flat against the wall.

Ok you weiner dogs I finally got the itch to put one together. I really cannot say enough as to how easy it is to assemble. Just take your time and you'll do fine. I bought the Harbor Freight tap set and used a vise to hold the T joints and with the 3-in-1 motor oil, it did absolutely perfectly. Absolutely perfectly! No need for a drill press at all. Anyway I bought all the parts from Lowe's today and figured I'd give an itemized rundown of the parts and current prices. This is a Lowe's in West Virginia, parts purchased on August 13, 2017.

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Granted I also purchased the 3-in-1 oil (2.99), lacquer thinner (8.38), red outdoor primer and paint (4.98) and black plasti-dip (5.98). I also bought a bottle of Deer Park sparkling raspberry and lime water and it was really bad (1.38).

I was really disappointed in the faucet handles. It appears Lowe's does not carry silcock handles seperately any more so they are essentially five bucks. In any case, I am sure you could get this stuff cheaper with multiple trips to multiple stores but I wanted to see if I could get it done in a single shot and I did. It is currently drying from what will probably be a crummy paint job but good enough to cover the black and protect against rust. Thanks to the creators of these plans for making it so easy.