(Topic ID: 20666)

VID's Quick and Dirty Rotisserie Guide

By vid1900

11 years ago


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  • Latest reply 5 months ago by WalrusPin
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    There are 381 posts in this topic. You are on page 3 of 8.
    #103 10 years ago

    Hey everybody,

    I had ran this past vid the other night and he suggested I share it on this thread, so here it is.

    I essentially built Vid's rotisserie mechanism, with the minor alteration that the stupid hardware store I went to didn't have regular spincock handles, so I just used large thumb-screws in place of them. Also, I already had a pair of cheap sawhorses that were not being used, so I used them rather than building the black pipe base.

    I also had some cheap clamps, which I wasn't too trusting of. I noted that on another site someone suggested that they drill holes through the end of the playfield to mount their board to the rotisserie. While I agree that you would never see the holes - I can't fathom damaging something I am trying to repair, by putting more holes in it. What to do?

    I came up with another idea for securing your playfield to the rotisserie. It does NOT in any way alter the plans laid out by Vid in this post, it just simply adds a couple of cheap parts to the list.

    LIST

    (4-6) 1/4 (20) bolts - about 1 1/4" in length should cover any situation
    (4-6) nuts for the bolts
    (4-6) washers to go with the nuts & bolts
    (1) 3' piece of angle (assuming you used 1 1/2" before, go 1 1/4" for this piece)

    - Saw the angle in half.
    - Center each new piece of angle on top of the playfield, directly above the piece of angle that your playfield is mounted onto.
    -Use a marker to mark off an area where the bolt/nut that holds the original angle to the flange poke through.
    - Take the pieces of angle (once both are marked) to a grinding wheel, if you have access to one, otherwise some wizardry with a hack-saw would probably work. Notch into the elbow of the angle a nice sized gap.

    *What you are doing here is making it so that the new angle will lie snug on top of your playfield in the same position as the original piece is sitting below your playfield. (notches A & B in picture 1)

    -Once you have a large enough notch, flatten the area around the notch by crimping it in a vice or hammering it flat, so that there are no sharp edges sticking out.
    - Lay the notched piece of angle over your playfield (as picture) and put the bolt/nut/washer combos through both pieces of angle via the holes in the angle - as close as you can to each side of the playfield and tighten them.

    *If you have no pre-existing holes in your playfield between the two pieces of angle, then you will have completed that end.

    - Wherever you do have pre-existing holes in the playfield, between the two angle pieces, use them to your advantage by adding a bolt, nut and washer to secure the playfield. This is why the quantity is listed as (4-6) on those parts in the list.

    Hope the description makes sense, I am half asleep as I write this. The pictures should help.

    This is easy, eliminates the need for trigger clamps, frees up the area from clamps getting in the way and does it all without having to drill any holes in your precious playfield.

    Enjoy! New_Rotisserie_Locking_System_01_(4web.pngNew_Rotisserie_Locking_System_01_(4web.png New_Rotisserie_Locking_System_02(4web).pngNew_Rotisserie_Locking_System_02(4web).png New_Rotisserie_Locking_System_03(4web).pngNew_Rotisserie_Locking_System_03(4web).png

    #105 10 years ago

    I'm assuming the ten dupe messages is a posting bug?

    Hey, just wanted to say thanks to Mike, Vid and the rest of you for passing this info along. I always learn something new every time I'm on here and it's because of guys like you. Really appreciate you guys taking the time..

    Cheers

    #106 10 years ago

    Yes,

    The ten or thirty copies of the post is a bug. Last night I tried to post the message and images and I kept getting a strange response - never one which led me to believe the message was actually posting. Then I started receiving the equivalent of a code error. So, I let it sit overnight thinking maybe some site maintenance was in progress. In the morning I attempted again to send text and images and it wouldn't.

    So, I got rid of the images and the text sent just fine. Then I uploaded the images with the one line of text and it went just fine. When I looked back - every single "failed" attempt had in fact appeared. I already notified pinside about it. I sure wish we could just delete our own messages, I would have gotten rid of that duplicate situation myself.

    Oh well...hopefully it doesn't scare too many people away.

    #108 10 years ago

    You can just go in and edit your posts to just a "." .

    A mod will come along and delete them .

    #109 10 years ago

    Vid, thank you for this as well as those that also contributed. FWIW, I got my stuff at Lowe's as it is down the street from my job and I let my company pay for my time picking up the materials. Shhhhhh, don't tell anyone at work.

    I made some minor changes/substitutions: Grabbed some 1/4 x 20 "T" plastic handles for the width adjuster "T" vs the metal T's. I also found 2" long 1/4x20 carriage bolts for the silcock handles as mentioned since they had them there. They were out of 1/2 x 60" long so I opted for the 72". I was going to cut them but they're not in the way. They do add more stability when I have my moving dollies underneath. I also had so many cans of paint but nothing to do the whole thing hence the multicolors, but it gets the job done.

    DSCN1662.JPGDSCN1662.JPG DSCN1663.JPGDSCN1663.JPG

    #110 10 years ago

    Nice. Funhouse...cool game.

    I am going to take the Vidman's advice and see what I can do to delete those bonus posts.

    -MinnPin

    1 week later
    #111 10 years ago

    Contacting the Pinside people and asking that they remove the error created multiple posts up above hasn't corrected the situation, and it has been over two weeks now.

    And, unless I misunderstood the instructions, putting a "." in place of the texts in all of those repetitive posts hasn't made a mod come along and delete them either, and that has now been well over a week. What gives pinside? Please clean up this monstrosity of repetitive posting errors, and delete these "." posts up above. It would take you all of one minute.

    Thanks.

    There....I feel better. Back to dirty rotisseries.

    MinnPin

    #112 10 years ago

    Don't sweat it. It happens to everybody.

    I've had the forum accidentally repeat my post 4 times in a row.

    Sooner or later it gets cleaned up.

    #113 10 years ago

    Right on. I think it scared people away from this topic. My post appeared approximately 4000 times in a row and now nobody is talking.

    1 week later
    #114 10 years ago

    I'd like to put my Party zone on a rotisserie to work on. But it seems like to get it on the rotisserie I have to do a lot of the tear down first. There are a couple of coils and a ramp at the top end and a bunch of lights at the bottom that would prevent it from sitting on the angle iron. But getting to the coils is about impossible in the machien. Do you do a large part of the teardown in the machine first?

    #115 10 years ago

    Dear Pinside Forum,

    I never thought I'd be writing you, but this weekend I tried black pipe for the first time. OMG I couldn't believe how filthy it was! But after some quality time with some lacquer thinner in my garage, well, you know what they say...

    Signed,
    I'll never go back

    shaft.jpgshaft.jpg

    #116 10 years ago
    Quoted from angus:

    I'd like to put my Party Zone on a rotisserie to work on. But it seems like to get it on the rotisserie I have to do a lot of the tear down first. There are a couple of coils and a ramp at the top end and a bunch of lights at the bottom that would prevent it from sitting on the angle iron. But getting to the coils is about impossible in the machien. Do you do a large part of the teardown in the machine first?

    You might clamp it below the angle iron rather than on top of it.

    Sometimes existing holes on the playfield give a secure mounting point.

    There are games that might require a few pieces to be removed before it plays nicely with the rotisserie.

    Improvise, post pictures....

    #117 10 years ago

    Angus,

    I am working on a Totem on my rotisserie currently, and as Vid said...existing holes can help greatly in securing the playfield (note my post above with the mod of adding the extra piece of angle - an existing hole, in this case, was great).

    Anyway, I had to remove the entire ball return unit to get that end snug in the rotisserie, but that's no big...about ten or so screws and out she comes. If you are going so far as to put your playfield on a rotisserie, we can assume that you are ready to do some work on it, correct?

    So...there you go.

    #118 10 years ago
    Quoted from MinnPin:

    Angus,
    I am working on a ...

    LOL

    when I saw, all I could think of is "tomorrow on 'Ask Mr. Scrimm', we will be addressing the following topics: 'Issues with playfield restoration in the 7th plane of Hell' and 'Jawa cloaks w/ utility pockets: the new fashion statement for every dwarf sized pinball restorer"

    3 weeks later
    #119 10 years ago

    Finished mine today! Thanks so much vid1900 for the instructions! You can see how mine turned out here: http://pinballproject.wordpress.com/2013/10/06/fabricated-a-pinball-playfield-rotisserie/

    rotisserie4.JPGrotisserie4.JPG

    #120 10 years ago

    Andre made a nice demonstration video on how the rotisserie works, if any of you are still fuzzy as to it's utility :

    1 week later
    #121 10 years ago

    Good video Andre. I also have my rotisserie in video form somewhere. I have actually been documenting my entire restore process on my Gottlieb Totem. So far I think I have posted approximately ten videos, but I am actually way past that in the restoration process, I just haven't had time to edit more videos. I am a filmmaker, so I get hung up on things like editing, even though this is stuff I am just shooting with my phone. Oh well...they will get edited and uploaded soon.

    Thanks again for the video, and again to you Vid1900...you are seriously a pinball life-saver. Funny thing is, I can only visualize that for some reason The Tall Man is being nice and helping us. You haven't even called any of us "boy"!

    3 weeks later
    #122 10 years ago

    I designed this one and a friend made it for me. I decided to use pinball legs with levelers. That way I can move it with my pin skates. In need to make my pin and work space flexible. Everything needs to be on wheels.
    Izzy

    rotisserie.jpgrotisserie.jpg rotisserie2.jpgrotisserie2.jpg
    #123 10 years ago
    Quoted from izzy:

    I designed this one and a friend made it for me.

    Really nice, as is Vid's tutorial...that's to all that contributed.

    Robert

    #124 10 years ago

    I made one as per the guide. Has anyone had any problems with the threads stripping? I had this problem in particular on the T joint that housed the silcock handle to prevent the playfield rotation. This happened before I even finished my first game using the new rotisserie. I've drilled a new set of Ts, but I'm wondering if others have had this problem or if there was possibly just a material defect on that piece of piping.

    #125 10 years ago

    I made one per the guide as well. After trying to build one out of wood thinking I could then put it on wheels, add shelves above and below to put together. I wasted some time, energy and money, came back to my senses and ended up following this guide. I made the following adjustments: (1) slightly narrower base width on the ground to avoid having my feet touching the tubes. (2) slightly higher rotisserie so I would have to less bend over the playfield.
    The height is easily increase with a T and a very short tube. Overall the whole thing works great.

    At first, I was a bit nervous to loose the playfield when turning it over with the clamps, so I also experimented with some bolts to keep the playfield in place. Waste of time. No problem as long as the clamps are good.

    Lastly, lifting the playfield out of the cabinet and putting it onto the rotisserie was a major pain, even with the help of a friend. To put it back in place, I will follow what TaylorVA shows in http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/twilight-zone-playfield-removal.

    #126 10 years ago

    Thanks for the link...really good info.

    Robert

    #127 10 years ago
    Quoted from Cheeks:

    I made one as per the guide. Has anyone had any problems with the threads stripping? I had this problem in particular on the T joint that housed the silcock handle to prevent the playfield rotation. This happened before I even finished my first game using the new rotisserie. I've drilled a new set of Ts, but I'm wondering if others have had this problem or if there was possibly just a material defect on that piece of piping.

    Usually the metal is plenty strong since big plumbers with big wrenches are torquing on them.

    #128 10 years ago
    Quoted from Cheeks:

    I made one as per the guide. Has anyone had any problems with the threads stripping? I had this problem in particular on the T joint that housed the silcock handle to prevent the playfield rotation. This happened before I even finished my first game using the new rotisserie. I've drilled a new set of Ts, but I'm wondering if others have had this problem or if there was possibly just a material defect on that piece of piping.

    I've had no problem with the threads I tapped stripping. I think if your tapped threads are stripping, it may be a problem with either your tapping tool or with the tap size or perhaps as you suggested, a material problem.

    I'd try it again and I think you'll be good on the second try.

    QSS

    4 months later
    #129 10 years ago

    I finally bought a Firepower playfield so I can do a swap soon. Definitely going to build one of these. Or should I build two?

    That's for the guide!

    #130 10 years ago
    Quoted from Geocab:

    I finally bought a Firepower playfield so I can do a swap soon. Definitely going to build one of these. Or should I build two?
    That's for the guide!

    Two is better than one, no doubt about it.

    2 weeks later
    #131 10 years ago

    Pricing update, I decided to build 2 more rotisserie's, Home Depot in Canada doesn't sell the 12" black pipe, so I used 2 5" galvanized pipes joined together with a union. Also since the cost difference was minimal, I used mostly galvanized parts where possible, total bill for materials came to just pennies over $200 for 2 rotisserie's!!

    Invaluable tool for working on playfields, everyone should have one!

    #132 10 years ago

    I've put the basics from page one together in a little PDF (with Vid's approval - thanks Vid) for all of the build. Personally I like to put my pinball docs in Dropbox then open them in iBooks so I have things wherever I go. PDF for this is attached. I may do other guides over time and attach them to Vid's various awesome and informative threads.

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/c5lk8tdqzta5ia3/Playfield%20Rotisserie%20-%20Blackpipe.pdf?dl=0

    Post edited by shimoda: updated pdf link

    #133 10 years ago
    Quoted from shimoda:

    I've put the basics from page one together in a little PDF (with Vid's approval - thanks Vid) for all of the build. Personally I like to put my pinball docs in Dropbox then open them in iBooks so I have things wherever I go. PDF for this is attached. I may do other guides over time and attach them to Vid's various awesome and informative threads.
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/c5lk8tdqzta5ia3/Playfield%20Rotisserie%20-%20Blackpipe.pdf

    Very F'ing cool of you to do this. Getting it into a pdf makes it:

    1. printable
    2. share-able
    3. removes all the in-between comments that come from posts to forums.

    Edit: add to "stuff you have" -- a drill press (I don't have one) so I'll need to go build this at a friend's house...

    respect!
    -mof

    #134 10 years ago
    Quoted from mof:

    Edit: add to "stuff you have" -- a drill press (I don't have one) so I'll need to go build this at a friend's house...

    Black Pipe is really soft metal, if you had a vise and a brand new drill bit, it could be done by hand (I have tapped a few black pipe gas lines with a hand drill in my day). But if you have a drill press at your disposal, that is the best choice.

    #135 10 years ago
    Quoted from mof:

    Very F'ing cool of you to do this. Getting it into a pdf makes it:
    1. printable
    2. share-able
    3. removes all the in-between comments that come from posts to forums.
    Edit: add to "stuff you have" -- a drill press (I don't have one) so I'll need to go build this at a friend's house...
    respect!
    -mof

    Thanks go to Vid for producing and blessing the dispensation of these old school ideas.

    1 week later
    #136 10 years ago

    Built one this weekend. Very easy to do following Vid's step by step instructions!

    Mine cost a little over the $100 others have quoted but I had to buy the paint/primer and all the parts. Overall it was a good excuse to spend some time outside and work on pinball stuff.

    Thanks Vid!

    photo.JPGphoto.JPG

    #137 9 years ago

    Looks great and nice color.

    But put those Molex connectors in a plastic bag and zip tie it shut.

    You don't want crud getting inside them from the ground.

    #138 9 years ago

    They are all sealed up and inside the garage now. I just had it outside for an "action shot."

    Thanks for the advice Vid!

    2 weeks later
    -2
    #139 9 years ago
    Quoted from shimoda:

    I've put the basics from page one together in a little PDF (with Vid's approval - thanks Vid) for all of the build. Personally I like to put my pinball docs in Dropbox then open them in iBooks so I have things wherever I go. PDF for this is attached. I may do other guides over time and attach them to Vid's various awesome and informative threads.
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/c5lk8tdqzta5ia3/Playfield%20Rotisserie%20-%20Blackpipe.pdf

    If you are going to repost these plans please give credit where credit is due. I designed this rotisserie and it was copied in this thread without my permission. The original plans are here:
    http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/just-in-case-you-havent-built-a-rotisserie-yet

    3 months later
    #140 9 years ago

    So I'm thinking about pulling the trigger and building one of these so I don't have to keep lifting/lowering my playfields. However, I'm worried since I usually do most of my pinball work solo that I'll have trouble getting a pf out of the cab and on to the rotisserie without buggering something up (or worse, dropping the whole damn thing). Anyone care to weigh in on their experiences with this? Is this routinely doable as a 1-man job?

    #141 9 years ago
    Quoted from stepside:

    So I'm thinking about pulling the trigger and building one of these so I don't have to keep lifting/lowering my playfields. However, I'm worried since I usually do most of my pinball work solo that I'll have trouble getting a pf out of the cab and on to the rotisserie without buggering something up (or worse, dropping the whole damn thing). Anyone care to weigh in on their experiences with this? Is this routinely doable as a 1-man job?

    I've removed and installed several different eras of pfs. They have all been relatively easy to do for me. Ymmv.

    1 week later
    #142 9 years ago
    Quoted from stepside:

    Anyone care to weigh in on their experiences with this? Is this routinely doable as a 1-man job?

    A loaded playfield isn't simple to move by yourself, but it isn't that difficult either. I have also done several from several different eras. Just take your time (and make sure all wires are unhooked!).

    #143 9 years ago
    Quoted from stepside:

    Anyone care to weigh in on their experiences with this? Is this routinely doable as a 1-man job?

    Easy one man job.

    Pull all the balls.

    Make sure every secret wire is unhooked. Gather up wires, and zip tie underneath.

    Clear the area of extension cords and other trip hazards.

    Extend the rotisserie to the proper length before you pull the playfield.

    Stand the playfield up on end and put one hand on the bottom to lift.

    1 month later
    #144 9 years ago
    Quoted from stepside:

    So I'm thinking about pulling the trigger and building one of these so I don't have to keep lifting/lowering my playfields. However, I'm worried since I usually do most of my pinball work solo that I'll have trouble getting a pf out of the cab and on to the rotisserie without buggering something up (or worse, dropping the whole damn thing). Anyone care to weigh in on their experiences with this? Is this routinely doable as a 1-man job?

    I don't do it on my own. My preferred approach is TaylorVA's as shown in https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/twilight-zone-playfield-removal.

    #145 9 years ago

    I tend to have my trolley underneath for base support, one foot in the cab, one outside in a sturdy low stool, and lift. Not to awkward a job. I think putting it back is harder.

    3 weeks later
    #146 9 years ago

    Another successful 30 minute rotisserie build. Under $200 total at Lowes. Thanks to all contributors.

    #147 9 years ago
    Quoted from jazc4:

    Another successful 30 minute rotisserie build. Under $200 total at Lowes. Thanks to all contributors.

    I have all the materials to make this except I'm not easily locating the sillcock handle. I even called some plumbers supply stores. Is this the Lowe's item #133575 that you used to procure the handle? http://www.lowes.com/pd_133575-33599-M72AS-HASK_4294700944__?productId=3389482
    Other than that, Ace Hardware seems to have some, but only if it is delivered to my local store and I'm not even sure if the handle has a square slot on the other side for the carriage bolt, so I don't know if I even want to try that out.

    #148 9 years ago
    Quoted from bitCurrier:

    I have all the materials to make this except I'm not easily locating the sillcock handle. I even called some plumbers supply stores. Is this the Lowe's item #133575 that you used to procure the handle? http://www.lowes.com/pd_133575-33599-M72AS-HASK_4294700944__?productId=3389482
    Other than that, Ace Hardware seems to have some, but only if it is delivered to my local store and I'm not even sure if the handle has a square slot on the other side for the carriage bolt, so I don't know if I even want to try that out.

    I had to substitute that with something else on my build. Check the lowes parts drawers in the hardware section. There should be black clamping knobs in one of those drawers--with and without the threaded shaft. For the ones without, you can just use a matching bolt of the length you desire, nuts, and locking washers for them.

    20140702195210294.jpg20140702195210294.jpg

    #149 9 years ago

    thanks, I'll keep an eye out for that part.

    There are 381 posts in this topic. You are on page 3 of 8.

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