I built this same one (single vertical on each end). Some complain that it isn't very stable, but I found if the vertical pipes and those parallel with the angle are really cranked down in the T joints, it moves very little. I get bit by the corners of the angle iron some, so i will likely look to round the corners and dip them in the liquid plastic stuff (duct tape for the time being)

Yes, you can easily modify the design by leaving out the original designers name and taking credit for someone elses work.
And yes, you can say someone else built a door rotisserie in the 1980's. I never said I built the first rotisserie. I said I built the first black pipe pinball playfield rotisserie.

Mike

I'm sure someone can print you a certificate for being the original inventor of the ghetto rotisserie.

LOL, That would be wonderful, Thank you. I designed it, I built it, I shared it, and I never asked anyone for a nickel for it. So yes, the occasional thank you is a very satisfying reward, indeed.

Mike

thanks Mike. Your design is simple, functional, is cheap and easy to obtain parts and build. It requires no special parts or equipment to build (e.g., welding). It stores away easy and provides the functionality needed. Anyone can tweak the design in anyway they find a need to or feel improves on it. The only way I can find to improve on it is to build a second to make pf swaps easier. good form man

Paint is currently drying, $60 in pipes. Unfortunately I didn't have the tap kit and angle iron was $10. Total was $100. Thanks a lot for the instructions!

Forgot to mention I did make one slight change, instead of using thumb screws and a silcock handles. I am using 1/4 x 20 eye hooks crews. My reasoning behind that was ill always have a handy Phillips or flat head screw driver to tighten or loosen the rotisserie.

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Or do this

That's a standard chop saw table with some new 1"x1" square tubing and some boat seat swivels. Stand was $80 here in Canada and then another 20" to 30$ in misc parts including the swivels. Oh and time investment over the true home made ones - this took me a couple hours including the trip to the local hardware store.

Not knocking anyone else's design. I'm just an impatient type so this was much easier for me.

IMG_0912.JPG IMG_0910.JPG IMG_0909.JPG

Nice! How does the swivel lock on that?

I just put a clamp on the swivel as you could lock in anywhere, another option would be to drill through both halves of the swivel, but unless you wanted to drill a ton of holes you'd have limited options on the angle you could lock it at. Also the seat swivels aren't "free wheeling", it'll only move if you move it yourself, the weight of a populated playfield didn't have it turning on its own.

Vid, I just built a rotisserie using your guide and it is simple and excellent. Only one thing I'd like to comment on. You state to use 1/2" x 48" pipe for the long lengths but I think you actually need 1/2" x 60" pipe for the long lengths because the 48" pipes are not long enough to take a playfield.

I built mine and when I went to put a playfield on it I couldn't extend things out far enough to accept my RFM playfield which is 43" long. I could only get a maximum 41" spread therefore I was 2" short. My TAF playfield is 46" long so I would be 5" short.

I solved this by buying another length of 1/2" x 6" pipe and a coupler and added on to my existing 48" pipe so I should be good now.

Just wanted to let everyone know that 1/2" x 60" pipe is what you need and not the 48" long.

Other than that, thanks for the tutorial.

QSS

The original plans I designed for the black pipe rotisserie called for 60" crossbeams:

http://groups.google.com/group/rec.games.pinball/browse_thread/thread/314082a1fa8a60bd/ac371b4396b9ffa8?lnk=gst&q=pinballmike217+rotisserie#ac371b4396b9ffa8

I don't know why Vid choose shorter crossbeams when he reposted my plans, they are too short.

Mike

I just built this yesterday. Awesome and very simple to construct. The most difficult part was making sure everything squared up properly and the vertical pipes with the rotating angles were the same height. Some of the pipes I bought wanted to tighten a little easier than others.

I have a general question about using a rotisserie. Is it dangerous to leave a playfield in one long term? With the amount of slop in the rotating mechanism and the lack of horizontal support I'm concerned about the play field bowing slightly. I'm assuming an unpopulated playfield would weigh less and be and not be so much of an issue though. Maybe I could buy 2 more pref angles and use them to span the length of the playfield.

If you are going to leave a playfield on the rotisserie for a long time you can rotate it to a vertical position instead of leaving it horizontal. Either way it is not really a worry. When you put the wood edges back on the playfield after you're finished they will square everything up again.

Thanks guys

We had a lot of yellow laying around. Haha 20130605_212814.jpg

You've got that right, vid.

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Wow! Look at the center of that Space Shuttle playfield! Do you think you can touch it up?

Touch up is out of the question on this one haha. I got my CPR in the mail.

After doing 2 playfield restorations without a rotisserie I finally got around to making one. Used some of what was posted in this thread. Made mine to mount on a pair of wood sawhorses, made the channel out of 2x4 because I did not like the idea of metal, the clamps hold well but added the hairpin because if bumped they can easily loosen.

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They are small, do not get in the way and hold well . I let this sit for 2 weeks vertical (cat proof)with no slipping.

I just did this. Parts from my local Lowes ran me $210, this included the clamps coming in at over $40. I thought about running to harbor freight (50 miles away) but then with the drive plus the possibility of having sub-par clamps I decided to get the better ones. I would hate to lose a fully populated play field because I went cheap on clamps! All in all I love this rotisserie and I think even though the materials costs have gone up it will still pay for itself in time and frustration saved, especially if you are like me and somehow managed to line up like 7 playfield swaps in your queue!

In addition to clamps I tie-wrap each end of the playfield to the angle iron so I never worry about the playfield slipping off.

I thought about making two for that purpose!

Done. $77. Thanks for putting this up. (And everything else you put up!)

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Man why was mine so much!? 2 60" pipes alone were $25 at my lowes

I started looking into building a rotisserie and like this design. One question that comes to mind is the position of the long parallel pipes on the floor. Aren't they located where one would typically stand or move around, meaning that you end up stepping on them quite a bit?

I see. Yes, sitting down, it seems to be quite natural and not a big deal at all to have them around.
I am looking into a standing up version which would be a lot more comfortable for me. I am going away for several weeks with some long flights and plenty of time to think about design.

By the way, many thanks to you vid1900 for generously sharing a great deal of fantastic information. In particular, your posts on restoring playfields and rebuilding flippers have been a massive source of inspiration.

You should have bought the 120" pipe and cut it. That is what I did. Way cheaper.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_313570-185-314+34X120_4294821999__?productId=3538958&Ntt=3%2F4+inch+pipe&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3D3%252F4%2Binch%2Bpipe&facetInfo=

They might cut it for you if you ask nice.

As far as metal costs go, find your local welding supply. Likely to find metal much cheaper.

That still leaves the need to thread it.

With this design it doesnt matter if the ends aren't threaded, the fitting just slips over the end and tightens with thumb screws.

My only advice is to use short thumb screws for those floor level ones. I used really long ones, and ive caught my bare feet on them more than I'd care to admit.

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