vid, really nice job and tutorial, excellent.
Sticky material.
Thanks for posting. Like the idea of easy dis-assembly and storage!!

Sticky material.

+1
Just post this link when people ask.
I only have one leg for mine, the mall is screwed to the bench for the other side.
I also used unions in place of the bibb handles, just a variation on this basic rotisserie.

WH2OTD_040.jpg

I wanted it rock solid for using the drill guide, once you tighten the two unions the thing doesn't even wiggle.
Least amount of parts, I don't have a lot of room and this stows away easily.

Awesome vid1900!

Thanks for posting this, I might be doing a PF swap very soon and if so will be using these plans.
Excellent guide

? - How are you attaching the PF to the Perforated Angle? Clamps? If so any trusted clamps you can recommend that won't fail and drop your PF?

After almost losing a PF with clamps I went with thru bolts and nuts on the apron end and on the backboard end I pull two wood screws from the bottom that attach the BB add washers and screw them back in.

Awesome thanks for those tips...agreed if the holes line up screw it down otherwise double up on the clamps!

Thanks!

I saw this design a couple years ago on a Canadian pinball site I believe. Out of all the home brewed designs I think this one is the best variation. I like the old flipper rubber idea. I tapped another hole in the piping in order to install adjustable feet much like a washing machine to stop the wobble on my garage floor.

Thanks for posting this vid!

I am putting together a new rotisserie this weekend and this post answered a lot of my questions about using the iron fittings. Thanks a ton!!

Like my ex wife also known as a hose bibb.

Good post thank you for sharing vid1900.

Thank you!

You actually dont need a drill press. The metal is so soft on the black pipe that you will be able to drill through it in no time. Punch the metal with a small screw and a hammer. Then get a smaller drill bit and make a hole. Then get the required bit which is a #7 or a 13/64 and finish the hole. Craftsman has a nice little tap set that includes a black carbide drill bit for each tap size. I believe the set has 5 taps total. Just make sure you start the tap straight and every 1/2 turn or so reverse the tap so that the metal shavings are cut clean making for a nice thread.

So with this design, is the PF secured to the perforated angle iron with Irwin Quick-Clamps, hardware, or a combination of both?

How many total Quick-Clamps, 4?

Great thread!

I am building a rotisserie today and wanted to say thanks again for this thread Vid!!
I used your plans with few small changes, but am not sure yet if I will regret those changes yet since I will not be using the tool for a little bit.

A few things I would like to offer based on my observations/ modifications I have done.

(2) 1/4"-20 x 4" Carriage Bolt >>> I suggest just getting 2" carriage bolts as the 4" ones are unnecessarily long. I am not sure if there is a reason for them to be so long?

(4) 1/4"-20 Thumb Screws >>> for clarity as I was a little confused on what length to get, you only need thumb screws that are ~1/2 inch long, so (4) 1/4"-20 x 1/2"

(1) 36" x 1.5x 1.5" Perforated Angle >>> I went slightly longer with this since I wanted to extend to the entire width of a PF, and be closer to the width of a widebody. I bought a 48" piece and cut it down to 2 20" pieces. It means an extra cut, but it was the same price as the 36" at the store I got it from.

I do not own a drill press, but just drilled the tees with my regular hand drill and then tapped them. The metal is really soft and I went slow and had no problems.

I also ended up buying some plastidip and dipped both ends of of both pieces of the angle iron. The first coat was not very think so I let it dry and dipped it again. I think this will be nice to pad the PFs.

I need to spray paint the whole thing today (after is warms up outside) and after building it, I questioned why did I not just use galvanized pipe? Is there a reason to use black pipe besides cost?

My thoughts are that galvanized means not dirty oil to clean up and no need to paint???

Thanks again Vid.

GREAT thread and picture documentation as always!!!!

I always enjoy and learn from the knowledge you share. It also often helps give me the added push I need to 'just do it'

I just finished my rotisserie last week using Vid's Specifications and construction procedure. It turned out very nice. Thanks very much for posting these instructions here. I ended up using two stock 1.5" x 1.5" - 24 inch long 14 gauge steel angles from Lowes for my mouting brackets. The 24" long angles accommodate a full wide body playfield without having to cut them cutting. See pictures. I didn't have plastic dip (where do you get that stuff? spray it on or do you have to dip in a trough?) I deburred the angles with a file and then I used heavy dark gray 3M duct tape from Autozone (not the cheap stuff from lowes) to line the angles for now.
Chet

PF_Rotis1.JPG PF_Rotis_2.JPG

Nice job. I will be doing a Paragon PF swap sometime in the near future. It would be handy to have a second rotisserie without breaking the bank as I did on the first one...

Wow - very nice design! Way better locking mech than mine. I am going to build this for sure. Thanks Vid for taking the time to show these steps.

got my plastidip at menards

this is the product>>http://www.plastidip.com/home_solutions/Plasti_Dip
Tall skinny can worked well to just dip the end 7 inches or so on each end of the angle iron.

There's a similar design on RFP that I followed but uses a triangle design for the ends that tends to be more stable IMO. Also, would suggest putting weatherstriping or similar soft material on the angle iron "ledge".

Here is the one I built in april prior to paint and top part.. Found this design on rgp. Good job on the tutorial vid.

image.jpg

Might have to go out and buy some parts.

I have made 3 of these now (2 for me and one for a fellow local pinhead) and on all 3 I made the same change. They are a great tool and weel worth the $100+ and the little bit of time it took to make them.

>>>Note: I had to change the bottom 1/2" x 48" pipes to 1/2" x 60" The 48" long pipes weren't long enough for any of our playfields. The 60" pipes work very well.

And a link to my original plans on RGP:
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.games.pinball/browse_thread/thread/314082a1fa8a60bd/ac371b4396b9ffa8?lnk=gst&q=pinballmike217+rotisserie#ac371b4396b9ffa8