(Topic ID: 20666)

VID's Quick and Dirty Rotisserie Guide


By vid1900

7 years ago



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    Topic index (key posts)

    21 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20

    Post #1 What is a rotisserie, description and supplies list. Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)

    Post #2 Step One: Drill & tap sides. Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)

    Post #3 Step two: Drill & tap tops. Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)

    Post #4 Step three: Form the axle. Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)

    Post #5 Step four: Assemble the knob. Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)

    Post #6 Step five: cut and assemble the perforated angle. Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)

    Post #7 Step six: finish the legs. Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)

    Post #18 Clamps for attaching playfields to the perforated angle. Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)

    Post #24 Leg leveler idea. Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)

    Post #66 Playfield sizes. Posted by vid1900 (6 years ago)

    Post #79 Variation using plywood ends instead of perforated angle iron. Posted by jgreene (6 years ago)

    Post #120 Video demonstration on using a rotisserie. Posted by vid1900 (6 years ago)

    Post #144 Link to a video on how to remove a playfield. Posted by lb1 (5 years ago)

    Post #170 Link to a wooden design. Posted by vid1900 (4 years ago)


    Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

    There are 352 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 8.
    30
    #1 7 years ago

    First, I did not invent this. This Rotisserie has been around in some form or another since your wife was young. Every woodworking oldtimer has one of these "Blackpipe Rotisseries" for their wood finishing. At least as far back as the 1990's woodworking books show how to build this style of rotisserie.

    Second, with all the Rotisserie posts today, I though I'd put this up without thread crapping on anyone else s post.

    What is good about this Rotisserie is that you can get all the parts in one trip to the hardware store and put it together in less than a hour. If you are a handy sort of person, you probably have most of the stuff in the rafters of your garage.

    It breaks down in less than a minute and stores flat.

    Super sturdy because it is made entirely of metal.

    It adjusts for any size playfield in seconds.

    Everything is made from "Black Pipe". No welding and only one easy cut with a hacksaw gets you an unbreakable playfield Rotisserie.

    Shopping list (print and take with):

    (2) 36" x 3/4" black pipe
    (4) 12" x 3/4" black pipe
    (8) 3/4" Tee
    (2) 60" x 1/2" black pipe
    (2) 3.5" x 1/2" Nipple black pipe
    (2) 1/2" Cap black pipe
    (2) 1/2" Floor Flange
    (4) 1/4"-20 x 3/4" Screws
    (6) 1/4"-20 Nuts
    (6) 1/4"-20 Lock Washers
    (2) 1/4"-20 x 4" Carriage Bolt
    (4) 1/4"-20 Thumb Screws
    (2) Silcock Replacement Knob
    (1) 36" x 1.5x 1.5" Perforated Angle

    Stuff you already have:

    13/64 Drill Bit
    1/4"-20 Thread Tap
    (if you don't want to tap, see this thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-quick-and-dirty-rotisserie-guide/page/5#post-3237772)
    Motor Oil
    Hack Saw
    Pipe Wrenches
    Lacquer Thinner
    Enamel Paint and of course metal Primer
    Old pinball rubbers

    If you want order online, cheaper than HomeDepot, skip to this thread:

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-quick-and-dirty-rotisserie-guide/page/7#post-4624906

    rotisserie.jpg

    #2 7 years ago

    Start at the drill press.

    Drill through the sides of 4 of the 3/4" Tees with the 13/64 drill bit.

    Dip your 1/4-20 tap into motor oil and tap threads into the holes.

    (if you don't want to tap or drill, see this part of the thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-quick-and-dirty-rotisserie-guide/page/5#post-3237772 )

    FOOT-DETAIL.jpg

    #3 7 years ago

    Next drill 13/64" holes into two 3/4" Tees on the top and towards one edge as shown.

    Tap 1/4"-20 threads as you did with the others.

    AXIS-DETAIL.jpg

    #4 7 years ago

    The 1/2" Floor Flange attaches to the 3.5" x 1/2" Nipple. This forms the axle that allows the playfield to spin. Once you place the Nipple through the 3/4" Tee, cap the end with the 1/2" Cap.

    #5 7 years ago

    The Silcock knobs have square holes in their centers and 1/4"-20 x 4" Carriage Bolts have a matching square shoulder.

    Put the bolt through the Knob, then place a Lock Washer and a 1/4"-20 nut.

    This completes the Knob assembly.

    KNOB-DETAIL.jpg

    #6 7 years ago

    Cut the Perferated angle in half with a hacksaw.

    Use the 1/4"-20 x 3/4" screws to secure it to the Floor Flange; using a Lock Washer and Nut.

    TOP.jpg

    #7 7 years ago

    Finally, use the undrilled 3/4" Tees to finish up the legs as shown.

    The 48" x 1/2" black pipe conveniently fits inside the 3/4" Tees you drilled for the Thumbscrews.

    Now you can vary the length of the Rotisserie to fit any size or brand playfield.

    Put some old playfield rubbers around the Tees so the Rotisserie does not slide all over the floor. LOWER-BASE.jpg

    #8 7 years ago

    Clean all the metal with Lacquer Thinner to get all the manufacturing oil off of it.

    Don't skip this step or you will get the dirty oil all over your playfield as you work.

    Prime and spray with a high quality enamel.

    #9 7 years ago

    That's it.

    It will take longer for the paint to dry than to build it.

    Like always, I'll rewrite a few sentences here and there for clarity. Don't be afraid to point out errors or points that need further explanation.

    #11 7 years ago

    vid, really nice job and tutorial, excellent.
    Sticky material.
    Thanks for posting. Like the idea of easy dis-assembly and storage!!

    #13 7 years ago

    Sticky material.

    +1
    Just post this link when people ask.
    I only have one leg for mine, the mall is screwed to the bench for the other side.
    I also used unions in place of the bibb handles, just a variation on this basic rotisserie.

    WH2OTD_040.jpg

    #14 7 years ago

    Very nice!

    The monopod takes care of any variations in playfield length without adjusting thumb screws. I like it.

    #15 7 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    Very nice!
    The monopod takes care of any variations in playfield length without adjusting thumb screws. I like it.

    I wanted it rock solid for using the drill guide, once you tighten the two unions the thing doesn't even wiggle.
    Least amount of parts, I don't have a lot of room and this stows away easily.

    #16 7 years ago

    Awesome vid1900!

    Thanks for posting this, I might be doing a PF swap very soon and if so will be using these plans.
    Excellent guide

    ? - How are you attaching the PF to the Perforated Angle? Clamps? If so any trusted clamps you can recommend that won't fail and drop your PF?

    #17 7 years ago
    Quoted from charles4400:

    Awesome vid1900!
    Thanks for posting this, I might be doing a PF swap very soon and if so will be using these plans.
    Excellent guide
    ? - How are you attaching the PF to the Perforated Angle? Clamps? If so any trusted clamps you can recommend that won't fail and drop your PF?

    After almost losing a PF with clamps I went with thru bolts and nuts on the apron end and on the backboard end I pull two wood screws from the bottom that attach the BB add washers and screw them back in.

    #18 7 years ago
    Quoted from charles4400:

    How are you attaching the PF to the Perforated Angle? Clamps? If so any trusted clamps you can recommend that won't fail and drop your PF?

    I used Irwin Quick-Grip clamps for the playfield in the pic:

    http://www.irwin.com/tools/clamps/one-handed-mini-bar-clamps

    Sadly, I saw the Irwin are now made in China, so the $2 clamps at Harbor freight are probably just as good:

    http://www.harborfreight.com/12-inch-ratchet-bar-clamp-spreader-46807.html

    #19 7 years ago

    If any of the holes in the playfield line up with the Perf Angle, then using a fender washer, you could screw it down.

    Usually there is something in the way during assembly on the top or bottom, so the quick release bar clamps are good for fast readjustments.

    #20 7 years ago

    Awesome thanks for those tips...agreed if the holes line up screw it down otherwise double up on the clamps!

    Thanks!

    #21 7 years ago

    I saw this design a couple years ago on a Canadian pinball site I believe. Out of all the home brewed designs I think this one is the best variation. I like the old flipper rubber idea. I tapped another hole in the piping in order to install adjustable feet much like a washing machine to stop the wobble on my garage floor.

    #22 7 years ago

    Thanks for posting this vid!

    I am putting together a new rotisserie this weekend and this post answered a lot of my questions about using the iron fittings. Thanks a ton!!

    #23 7 years ago

    A Silcock is the garden hose valve on the outside of a house. At least that is what they call them here in the East.

    The Silcock knobs are in the same isle as the all the other plumbing stuff you will be buying.

    A thumbscrew will not give you the range of tension that the big knob will, so trust me on this, if you want the easiest tension setting, you want the knob.

    #24 7 years ago
    Quoted from exflexer:

    I tapped another hole in the piping in order to install adjustable feet much like a washing machine to stop the wobble on my garage floor.

    Good idea.

    You guys could tap 3/8"-16 holes near the ends of the 12" x 3/4" pipes and install some Leg Levelers:

    http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=921&parent=7

    You will probably want the rubber boots too, for traction.

    #25 7 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    A Silcock is the garden hose valve on the outside of a house.

    Like my ex wife also known as a hose bibb.

    #26 7 years ago

    I got an email asking about the Perforated Angle Iron.

    It's at any hardware store in a rack stored vertically. Usually there are some rods and flats in the same rack.

    You can use Aluminum Angle or regular Angle Iron, but then you have to drill the holes yourself. Don't bother getting any expensive or thick stuff - a playfield does not weigh that much.

    You can cover the Perf Angle with liquid rubber Plasti Dip if you want a non slip protective rubber coating:

    http://www.plastidip.com/home_solutions/Plasti_Dip

    #27 7 years ago

    Good post thank you for sharing vid1900.

    #28 7 years ago

    Thank you!

    #29 7 years ago

    A few of you have asked if I want to do a kit with just the drilled and threaded Tees - so you can just go to the hardware store for the rest and assemble.

    I'm not excited about the idea, but if a dozen people want it, I'll do it.

    It's easy to drill a hole and run a tap through it, but I do understand that not everyone has a drill press.

    Ask around, probably 1/2 of all homeowners have a drill press.

    #30 7 years ago

    You actually dont need a drill press. The metal is so soft on the black pipe that you will be able to drill through it in no time. Punch the metal with a small screw and a hammer. Then get a smaller drill bit and make a hole. Then get the required bit which is a #7 or a 13/64 and finish the hole. Craftsman has a nice little tap set that includes a black carbide drill bit for each tap size. I believe the set has 5 taps total. Just make sure you start the tap straight and every 1/2 turn or so reverse the tap so that the metal shavings are cut clean making for a nice thread.

    #31 7 years ago

    Thanks Vid for the How-To; a few follow-ups for you please:

    1. Approximate total cost?

    A: There is easily $50 in materials. Everything is made of metal, so it's not cheap, but will literally last forever.
    =
    =

    2. Advantage of this version over the PVC in your opinion.

    PVC gets brittle over time and may react to the chemicals in the Clear Coat, or Lacquer Thinner.

    PVC is not stiff like iron, it sags and has some spring to it.

    PVC is lightweight so the playfield will be top heavy unless you fill the PVC with sand or lead shot. You can't accidentally knock over the iron one.

    =
    =

    3. I'm doing my first swap as we speak--actually, it's not a swap, I literally just got my AFM PF back from HEP. My observation in the teardown was that a rotisserie wasn't actually necessary. (I kept the PF in the cabinet right up till about 95% of the components were removed from the upper and lower PF; I just kept lifting & lowering the PF; was no biggie in hindsight--didn't seems to need a rotisserie!)

    Now also being a car resto guy, I'm fully aware that assembling is 10X as hard as the tear-down--so my question is: would you recommend a rotisserie in my particular case knowing now what you know? (I may do a few more of these over the coming years--but not many; maybe half a dozen or so (and I would envision always sending my originals PFs off to HEP vs. buying repros).

    Bottom line: I wondering if rotisseries are really only needed for a true swap where two PFs in play at one time?

    A: I use rotisseries even for non playfield swaps.

    Even rebuilding four pop bumpers is done in 1/2 the time on a rotisserie.

    They save you a few hours over lifting and lowering the playfield. I don't know what you make per hour, but saving a few hours of time for $50 is a bargain for me.

    Soldering on a level surface is better, and drips don't fall into the depths of the machine.

    Setting the spinner springs, changing over to LED, adjusting pop bumper switches, everything is 10x easier.

    Sitting down is a very relaxed way to work on anything.

    2 months later
    #32 7 years ago

    So with this design, is the PF secured to the perforated angle iron with Irwin Quick-Clamps, hardware, or a combination of both?

    How many total Quick-Clamps, 4?

    Great thread!

    #33 7 years ago

    Yes, you only need the 4 quick clamps.

    You can use some of the playfield screw holes, but usually the quickness of the clamps (for repositioning) overrides the convenience of the existing holes.

    3 weeks later
    #34 6 years ago

    I am building a rotisserie today and wanted to say thanks again for this thread Vid!!
    I used your plans with few small changes, but am not sure yet if I will regret those changes yet since I will not be using the tool for a little bit.

    A few things I would like to offer based on my observations/ modifications I have done.

    (2) 1/4"-20 x 4" Carriage Bolt >>> I suggest just getting 2" carriage bolts as the 4" ones are unnecessarily long. I am not sure if there is a reason for them to be so long?

    (4) 1/4"-20 Thumb Screws >>> for clarity as I was a little confused on what length to get, you only need thumb screws that are ~1/2 inch long, so (4) 1/4"-20 x 1/2"

    (1) 36" x 1.5x 1.5" Perforated Angle >>> I went slightly longer with this since I wanted to extend to the entire width of a PF, and be closer to the width of a widebody. I bought a 48" piece and cut it down to 2 20" pieces. It means an extra cut, but it was the same price as the 36" at the store I got it from.

    I do not own a drill press, but just drilled the tees with my regular hand drill and then tapped them. The metal is really soft and I went slow and had no problems.

    I also ended up buying some plastidip and dipped both ends of of both pieces of the angle iron. The first coat was not very think so I let it dry and dipped it again. I think this will be nice to pad the PFs.

    I need to spray paint the whole thing today (after is warms up outside) and after building it, I questioned why did I not just use galvanized pipe? Is there a reason to use black pipe besides cost?

    My thoughts are that galvanized means not dirty oil to clean up and no need to paint???

    Thanks again Vid.

    GREAT thread and picture documentation as always!!!!

    I always enjoy and learn from the knowledge you share. It also often helps give me the added push I need to 'just do it'

    #35 6 years ago

    I just finished my rotisserie last week using Vid's Specifications and construction procedure. It turned out very nice. Thanks very much for posting these instructions here. I ended up using two stock 1.5" x 1.5" - 24 inch long 14 gauge steel angles from Lowes for my mouting brackets. The 24" long angles accommodate a full wide body playfield without having to cut them cutting. See pictures. I didn't have plastic dip (where do you get that stuff? spray it on or do you have to dip in a trough?) I deburred the angles with a file and then I used heavy dark gray 3M duct tape from Autozone (not the cheap stuff from lowes) to line the angles for now.
    Chet

    PF_Rotis1.JPG PF_Rotis_2.JPG

    #36 6 years ago

    Nice job. I will be doing a Paragon PF swap sometime in the near future. It would be handy to have a second rotisserie without breaking the bank as I did on the first one...

    #37 6 years ago

    Wow - very nice design! Way better locking mech than mine. I am going to build this for sure. Thanks Vid for taking the time to show these steps.

    #38 6 years ago

    got my plastidip at menards

    this is the product>>http://www.plastidip.com/home_solutions/Plasti_Dip
    Tall skinny can worked well to just dip the end 7 inches or so on each end of the angle iron.

    #39 6 years ago

    There's a similar design on RFP that I followed but uses a triangle design for the ends that tends to be more stable IMO. Also, would suggest putting weatherstriping or similar soft material on the angle iron "ledge".

    #40 6 years ago
    Quoted from Whysnow:

    (2) 1/4"-20 x 4" Carriage Bolt >>> I suggest just getting 2" carriage bolts as the 4" ones are unnecessarily long. I am not sure if there is a reason for them to be so long?

    At my Home Depot, the only Carriage Bolts with the square shank below the head were 4" and longer. The square shank fits the square hole in the Silcock knob exactly.

    I tried to make sure that the entire design could be made with materials from Home Depot.

    If you found 2" bolts with the square, all the better!

    Quoted from Whysnow:

    I need to spray paint the whole thing today (after is warms up outside) and after building it, I questioned why did I not just use galvanized pipe? Is there a reason to use black pipe besides cost?

    Black pipe is cheaper, that's why I use it.

    Wipe the pipe with Lacquer Thinner to get any oil off, and paint away.

    Quoted from Whysnow:

    My thoughts are that galvanized means not dirty oil to clean up and no need to paint???

    There is still oil to clean off where the threads were cut, but yes, you would not have to paint it.

    I guess you don't have to paint Black Pipe either, as it already has a baked on foundry finish, but I like the look of the painted surface.

    #41 6 years ago
    Quoted from kmoore88:

    There's a similar design on RFP that I followed but uses a triangle design for the ends that tends to be more stable IMO.

    Please post a link to your rotisserie.

    Once the playfield is clamped, this one is amazingly stable.

    I sand clear coat on them all the time, and if it was not stable, the pneumatic sander would whip the thing around.

    Unlike many other designs, this design lets you work on the playfield seated - the most comfortable way to work for me.

    #42 6 years ago

    Here is the one I built in april prior to paint and top part.. Found this design on rgp. Good job on the tutorial vid.

    image.jpg

    #43 6 years ago

    Might have to go out and buy some parts.

    2 months later
    #44 6 years ago

    We decided to shop out our Earthshaker this weekend, which involved pulling everything off of the playfield, something that just sucks in those system 11 cabinets, so I followed Vid1900's guide and built a rotisserie today. Thank you, Vid1900! I love it!

    Everything came from Home Depot, except the quick release clamps(Harbor Freight.) The Home Depot total was about $100. Assembly, literally, took about 1/2 hour.

    Note: I had to change the bottom 1/2" x 48" pipes to 1/2" x 60" The 48" long pipes weren't long enough for any of our playfields. The 60" pipes work very well.

    I also bought a 48" long angle for the ledge bracket and cut it in half (and rounded off the sharp corner edges) so it would support a widebody playfield.

    The rotisserie made this shop out super easy. The height was perfect for shopping out, though maybe a bit tall for spraying a clear coat (or maybe I'm just a bit short) and I know it will last a lifetime. I look forward to shopping many more playfields on this baby.

    Anyhow, here's the picture to prove it

    rotisserie.jpg

    #45 6 years ago

    Looks great MrArt2U!

    #46 6 years ago

    Although woodworkers have been using the pipe rotisserie since at least the 1980s, I wanted to point out that Pinball Mike posted about making one in 2005 on RGP.

    I don't want anyone to feel slighted, least of all a fellow Pinsider! Thanks Mike!

    #47 6 years ago

    I have made 3 of these now (2 for me and one for a fellow local pinhead) and on all 3 I made the same change. They are a great tool and weel worth the $100+ and the little bit of time it took to make them.

    >>>Note: I had to change the bottom 1/2" x 48" pipes to 1/2" x 60" The 48" long pipes weren't long enough for any of our playfields. The 60" pipes work very well.

    #48 6 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    Although woodworkers have been using the pipe rotisserie since at least the 1980s, I wanted to point out that Pinball Mike posted about making one in 2005 on RGP.
    I don't want anyone to feel slighted, least of all a fellow Pinsider! Thanks Mike!

    Thanks for reposting my design, Vid. Yes, I did build the first black pipe playfield rotisserie in 2005, and then posted these plans for the newer version on RGP in 2011:
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/mike217/sets/72157626484933268/
    It was very thoughtful of you to share it with Pinside. In the future, if anyone else would like to repost my design it is common courtesy to ask for permission first and include my name on my design.

    Mike

    #49 6 years ago
    Quoted from Pinballmike217:

    Thanks for reposting my design, Vid. Yes, I did build the first black pipe playfield rotisserie in 2005, and then posted these plans for the newer version on RGP in 2011:
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/mike217/sets/72157626484933268/
    It was very thoughtful of you to share it with Pinside. In the future, if anyone else would like to repost my design it is common courtesy to ask for permission first and include my name on my design.
    Mike

    And a link to my original plans on RGP:
    http://groups.google.com/group/rec.games.pinball/browse_thread/thread/314082a1fa8a60bd/ac371b4396b9ffa8?lnk=gst&q=pinballmike217+rotisserie#ac371b4396b9ffa8

    #50 6 years ago
    Quoted from Whysnow:

    >>>Note: I had to change the bottom 1/2" x 48" pipes to 1/2" x 60" The 48" long pipes weren't long enough for any of our playfields. The 60" pipes work very well.

    That's what is great about the design, you can easily modify it to your specs.

    One guy who emailed me saying he designed the first pipe rotisserie back in the 1980s, said he originally used it to restore antique doors. Obviously you would need to use two 1/2" x 96" black pipes if you had to secure a door between the uprights.

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