(Topic ID: 18292)

VID's Guide to Upgrading/Rebuilding Flippers


By vid1900

7 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 2,364 posts
  • 395 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by LGFAutos
  • Topic is favorited by 1,081 Pinsiders
  • Topic is sticky in its sub-forum

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Topic index (key posts)

14 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #6 Get the right EOS switch Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)

Post #8 Make System 11 Flippers Feel Tight Like Fliptronic Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)

Post #88 Replace Old Series Coils With New Parallel Coils Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)

Post #140 Udate Old Solid State Flippers Into Fliptronic Style Posted by vid1900 (6 years ago)

Post #292 List of games with longer/shorter flipper travel Posted by vid1900 (6 years ago)

Post #294 Rebuilding 1967-1979 Flippers Posted by vid1900 (6 years ago)

Post #390 Coil stop differences between system 11 and Fliptronic Posted by vid1900 (5 years ago)

Post #520 Rebuilding Bally Linear Flippers Posted by vid1900 (5 years ago)

Post #710 Classic Bally Early Solid State Flippers Posted by vid1900 (4 years ago)

Post #712 Coil Stop Wear Posted by vid1900 (4 years ago)

Post #713 Plunger wear Posted by vid1900 (4 years ago)


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#46 7 years ago

vid1900, this is a great write-up, and I fully concur with doing the spring upgrades to the earlier (i.e. Sys11) flippers, but one thing does concern me - from these pictures you have a low-voltage gold-flashed EOS switch (fliptronics-style) in where the Sys11 design needs the high-voltage EOS switch with the tungsten-contacts.

Like this one:
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=262&parent=0

It is the high-voltage NC switch that also has the stronger spring to hold it tightly closed for good current flow.

The weaker gold-flashed EOS switches (fliptronics-style) are not designed for that application.

RussMyers

Quoted from vid1900:

This is the correct installation of the Coil; Diodes safely away from the Coil Stop. It matters, do it right.
Some Coils were installed backwards at the factory, so you may have to pull a little slack wire from the harnesses to reach the proper position.

1 year later
#360 5 years ago
Quoted from dmacy:

Stupid question but figured I should ask: Fliptronics flippers. Does the EOS care where the orange and black wires are? Obviously not together but the switch just needs see a make and break or am I way off?

Doesn't matter for that appplication.

Closing that switch is just like touching the wires together - doesn't matter what leaf side it's attached to.

RussMyers

#364 5 years ago

WPT is Stern (modern).

The EOS switches are Normally Closed, like DE, yes?

They should only open by the pawl at the end of the flipper's stroke.

If the flipper bat is up (low-power hold) and gets pushed down and the EOS closes, it should instantly (high power) kick again to hold the bat up.

Is that how yours are operating?

RussMyers

Quoted from Pdxmonkey:

I have a wpt that i rebuild the flippers on and I'm having an issue with my left flipper.
when i push the flipper button flipper goes up but after a push on the flipper (or a ball hitting it) it becomes de-energized. I thought this was the EOS switch so i replaced it and it works and is gapped properly.

3 years later
#1916 1 year ago
Quoted from superJackpot:

That happened to me when rebuilding flippers on Johnny Mnemonic. No matter how hard I tightened the bolt, the one flipper would rotate after a few flipper hits. I broke two bolts trying to tighten them over again (the new silver ones are crap). I went to my old parts bin and grabbed an old black allen bolt. No change, but the bolt held. At no time did the gap close around the flipper shaft.
Turned out to be the flipper bat. The shaft had loosened from the flipper plastic. (With vice grips and moderate force I could turn the shaft while holding the flipper bat in my hand). I never even considered that this could be the cause. Another (used) flipper bat solved my problem.

One thing that can cause this is the design of the DE cranks.

The cranks on Data East flipper mechs are threaded on one side only.

That means the cap nut has to go on the side that is NOT threaded.

Otherwise you are only tightening the cap nut against the threading and not drawing the two sides together.

Does that make sense?

Ask me how I know this...

RussMyers

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