(Topic ID: 18292)

VID's Guide to Upgrading/Rebuilding Flippers

By vid1900

11 years ago


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  • Latest reply 12 days ago by cnordquist
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Topic index (key posts)

15 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #6 Get the right EOS switch Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #8 Make System 11 Flippers Feel Tight Like Fliptronic Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #88 Replace Old Series Coils With New Parallel Coils Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #140 Udate Old Solid State Flippers Into Fliptronic Style Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #292 List of games with longer/shorter flipper travel Posted by vid1900 (10 years ago)

Post #294 Rebuilding 1967-1979 Flippers Posted by vid1900 (10 years ago)

Post #390 Coil stop differences between system 11 and Fliptronic Posted by vid1900 (10 years ago)

Post #520 Rebuilding Bally Linear Flippers Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#2588 3 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

The first problem is that the old coils are shorter than the modern standard, AND they are 28v instead of 50v.
So we need a SFL 19/400 - 30/750 coil. Often used in games like Black Knight*, the coil is full size, 28v and has plenty of power. Exactly what we need.
You also need a base plate, flipper bushing and a high voltage EOS switch (don't reuse the old one that lacks the "helper" spring leaf).
Terry at PL will actually make the entire assembly for you for only $36:
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=172
Here are the options to choose:
[quoted image]
I know right now many of you are saying "Thirty Six Dollars??? To rebuild my flipper?", but look at it this way:
1. You are getting a completely new everything. Nothing to polish or clean.
2. You are getting that "snappy" Fliptronic feel - the best flipper design ever made.
3. Rebuild kits in the future will only be $21 (instead of $54 for the old style Williams one).
4. You can sell your old mechs and coil and get a few bucks back towards your new stuff.
5. You can use modern flipper bats, so you get all the cool colors, transparent, illuminated......
* Firepower II, LaserCue and Starlight were the first games to switch to 50v flippers.
[quoted image]

Hey Vid,
I bought a beat up flash about 5 years ago I was going to get operational, play for a while then sell. I was going through my stuff a few weeks ago and discovered 3 (one left & 2 right)of the WPC flipper mechs I must have bought to upgrade the 3 flippers. They have the right coils but they all have the same EOS switch. In the game the lower right flipper has a dual contact switch, I'm guessing to actuate the upper right flipper. I have pulled anything apart yet but that switch stack looks pretty fat and I might have a hard time fitting it on the mounting bracket if i want to swap it over while I wait for a new switch to come in from pinball life. This is what I think I want to order:

https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-flipper-leaf-switch-double-contact.html

I just want to confirm that is the right one and get some direction on how to ensure everything is going to fit on the plate where they single eos switch is now.

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#2590 3 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

That is a cabinet double flipper switch. You need this instead.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/ASW-A10-45

Thanks Grumpster! So just add that onto the existing stack on the new assy?

#2595 3 years ago

well would you look at that? after some more rummaging around I found my bin with the leftover EOS switches and low & behold....a nice fresh ASW-A10-45 from marco specialties. I think bolting on the backplane of the switch mount will work.

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#2596 3 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Get rid of those crimp terminals too.
High vibration location, let alone the thin wire gauge

yup good call Vid. I'll get rid of those b connectors. another question and i think you have covered it previously. Is the stock bushing that came on the assy from Terry suitable or do I need to change that?

#2598 3 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Yes, bushing is good; matches that baseplate

Thanks you sir. I will probably get on this project tomorrow night and update the thread on how it goes. Seems pretty straightforward from here.

#2603 3 years ago

It definitely took a bit of patience to relocate a few things but after about 15 hours of surgery & cleaning, 160.00 worth of parts & LEDS and a 2x4 under the fully extended rear leg levelers... flash is now playing fast as hell.

Thanks Vid1900!

RB

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#2605 3 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Nice. I’m almost done with Laser Cue too. [quoted image]

I'm glad I only used 2 small screws per plate when I first mounted the new assy's. th e butt end of the flipper bat was a little too high and caused the ball to bounce up as it travelled down the inlanes. luckily there was enough play in the bushing hole to pull both main flippers down to allow a nice fast zip over the flippers.

3 weeks later
#2610 2 years ago

upgrading flash to the new flipper mechs improved the power immensely. This ball is stuck between the plastic and glass on the upper left of the PF. Had to pull the glass down to get it out. Outside edge is working on a hardtop for this game. I have it screaming already. Cant wait to get that.

RB

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