Black Knight
Williams, 1980
Indiana Jones: The Pinball Adventure
Williams, 1993You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider razorbak86.
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Quoted from ryanwanger:Can you explain this a bit more in detail? I'm not sure I see why that would make a difference since the coil stop only comes into play at end of a flipper stroke.
I'm talking about the flippers being at rest, and having too much play when struck by a ball.
Sounds like a worn flipper bushing, with an elongated hole for the flipper shaft. Did you replace the flipper bushing?
WestOfRome, even though the bushing is mounted below the playfield, the top of the bushing extends above the playfield, so Vid is indeed talking about the gap between the bottom of the flipper and the top of the bushing, both of which are above the playfield. The gap should be about the thickness of a standard plastic credit card, which can be used above the playfield to "gap" the flipper when tightening in its final position. If you are doing this yourself without an assistant, you will be holding the flipper and the credit card underneath it with one hand above the playfield, and tightening the screw on the flipper shaft with your other hand below the playfield.
Quoted from vid1900:Normally it goes on the plunger side.
Thanks. That's what Eddie at Modern Pinball said, too.
Curiously, Stern's manuals often show it on the coil stop side (see pic below), but it makes more sense to place it on the plunger side to enable better alignment of the coil stop.
Quoted from Haymaker:Does anybody know the materials that the coil stops are made out of? Are most of them just steel? I do PVD coatings at work such as titanium nitride (if you've ever seen the gold drill bits at the store, thats the stuff). I've constantly been wondering what kind of pinball stuff I could coat at work as TiN has a great gold color but perhaps more importantly will add significant durability to things that are coated. An idea I've been kicking around is maybe coating a set of plungers and coil stops. In theory they would last significantly longer than ever possible before. Of course you'd still have to replace things like sleevs and EOS switches, not to mention the links, which is kind of a PITA but I am more just wanting to do it just to test my theory.
Plungers and coil stops tend to "mushroom" (i.e., a type of plastic deformation, permanently deforming the metal) due to the repeated impact and the hardness of the steel. Would TiN really solve or minimize that problem?
Quoted from Bruce:vid1900 i have noticed recently on my ST Pro that the left flipper (while strong and otherwise working perfectly) has some play when a ball hits it at full speed.
For example - I have the left flipper up (engaged) and the ball flys down the left orbit bounces on the flipper - the flipper 'gives' a bit if that makes sense - it moves towards the unengaged flipper position just a little - before returning to the fully engaged position immediately. This does not happen with right flipper.
Is there any way to remedy this? Not a huge issue by any means, but it would be good for it to feel solid like the right.
Sounds like it may be a sloppy bushing. The hole for the flipper shaft may have elongated, allowing more movement than when new?
Quoted from chuckwurt:Okay and what does the filing do exactly? Just trying to understand the theory behind it.
Quoted from zacaj:The assumption being you can't make it tighter because the two sides have already 'met', so if you file them back you can close it a bit further, gripping the shaft tighter.
Correct. From an engineering perspective, the pawl that grips the flipper shaft relies on elastic deformation, and that is only possible with a gap between the ends to allow the metal in the pawl to bend under force (i.e., the bolt is tightened). Once the force is released (i.e., the bolt is loosened), the metal returns to its original shape, allowing the shaft to be removed.
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