So, it has been stated that the normal flipper travel is 2-3/8" What is correct flipper travel for the games that use the long coils stops and have reduced travel?

Anyone know the answer?

Your Hold Mode 1 scenario is not going to work the way you think it does. If the flipper assembly is grounded as you show it, the flipper would stick up and never come back down until you turned the game off. The reason neither of these Hold Mode 1 or 2 scenarios are a problem because the flipper assembly is not grounded.

In your diagram for Hold Mode 1, current will flow from the source voltage through the hold winding and into ground on your flipper pawl. Therefore, the flipper will stay up as you have bypassed the flipper switch. This is per your drawing. If you change the scenario by saying the flipper assembly is not grounded, then your drawing no longer represents that scenario (and then the flipper will operate just fine).

Connect the spring at both ends before putting the spring tab onto the bolt that clamps down the crank. Super simple that way.

It is a PITA to connect the springs without damaging them when everything is in place. You will be amazed at how easy it is with the spring tabs loose. NF is a great game - good luck getting it up and running!

It is not a game for those who love deep rule sets and lots of different challenges. But if you like speed and flow and adrenaline, it is pure awesome! I played a few games on mine today after taking a break from it for a couple months. Made me remember why it was one of my favorites before AC/DC started hogging all my game time.

This is a bad idea. A properly crimp joint is actually better than a soldered joint. By adding solder to a crimped joint, you are reducing its life span. The reason is that a crimped joint does not affect the wire up to the joint. A soldered joint always wicks solder back into the wire effectively creating a single strand wire which then breaks when subject to vibration.