(Topic ID: 18292)

VID's Guide to Upgrading/Rebuilding Flippers

By vid1900

11 years ago


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  • Latest reply 6 days ago by cnordquist
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Topic index (key posts)

15 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #6 Get the right EOS switch Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #8 Make System 11 Flippers Feel Tight Like Fliptronic Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #88 Replace Old Series Coils With New Parallel Coils Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #140 Udate Old Solid State Flippers Into Fliptronic Style Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #292 List of games with longer/shorter flipper travel Posted by vid1900 (10 years ago)

Post #294 Rebuilding 1967-1979 Flippers Posted by vid1900 (10 years ago)

Post #390 Coil stop differences between system 11 and Fliptronic Posted by vid1900 (10 years ago)

Post #520 Rebuilding Bally Linear Flippers Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)


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#2400 4 years ago
Quoted from Radius118:

Next flipper related question.
I see Vid wrote a guide on updating the old Bally linear mechs to WPC. I would love to do this to my Spectrum but I really don't think there is enough room for the base plates since Spectrum has about 80 million lamp sockets.
Has anyone done this with success on their Spectrum?

Here is a picture of my Spectrum with the mod done, haven't even put the flipper bats in yet!

I upgrade all the games at the Ottawa Pinball Arcade to Fliptronic style, but sub in the normally closed high voltage EOS and add the capacitor, using an 11630 coil. Works amazingly well on every Classic Bally and Classic Stern, and on Gottliebs and Classic Williams I use an SFL-19-400/30-750 coil.

You may have to move the wiring harness and maybe the odd socket, some games are tight, like the upper left flipper on Power Play. I had to trim the back of the grommet the link stops on so the playfield could go back down, there's maybe 1/32" to spare... and all 6 flippers on Black Hole was a task.

Spectrum was relatively easy by comparison. Squeezing 555 wedge LED's in all the sockets however? My hands looked like I'd been fishing through a bag of razor blades and needles for a week...

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4 months later
#2493 3 years ago
Quoted from Bloodsin:

I saw someone mention the coil Sfl-19-400/30-750 and that was an option so was going to go with that. There is also an option for different coil stops, I don’t remember anyone saying anything about them so is the default ok? it says
A-12390
As for the eos there is an option for a normally closed that I was confident was correct.

I saw there was a problem with some lamps being in the way I think vid show a flex led that would fix this might try to get those as I was told this machine was converted to led’s haven’t had time to even look at it yet.

Yes, definitely the SFL-19-400/30-750 is the way to go, and also yes to the normally closed (high voltage) EOS. As for the coil stop, I prefer the A-12111.

I do this to all the machines at my Arcade, and to all the games I sell, based on the suggestions of Vid in this thread, whose advice on Pinside has had as big of an influence on my pinball repair and upgrading as Jimi Hendrix did on my guitar playing! This same coil and setup works great on Gottlieb system 1 and 80 also.

In any event, here are some pics of the Flash at The Ottawa Pinball Arcade. I can't remember how or what I had to do to make them fit, but the pics should illustrate what can fit where and work without any major effort. And yes, I just noticed that I never put in the final 4 screws in each assembly, I usually put 4 and add the others once I'm satisfied with the final position and everything else has a place (light sockets, harness brackets, etc.)

I have had nothing but compliments about how well the game plays, even from a hardcore pinball guy that hates the machine normally!

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#2494 3 years ago
Quoted from wamonkey:

With respect to all who post, I want to upgrade the flippers, the posts in this form is to upgrade the flippers mechs to get a tighter More responsive feel. VID1900 (the man, the myth, the legend) Has whole sections on upgrading liners to WMS and answered questions about Bally machines that were upgrading, I was just asking because I did not see Flash Gordon. There were multiple posts for EBD which are close in vintage.

I have the small flipper and shaft, but I have no base plates or anything and I think WMS mechs would be the way I want to go and I think they will fit. VID1900 discussed the coil strength issue, just looking for what someone did for Flash Gordon and their experience what exactly they bought. The whole forum is about combining the pieces, mechs, coil stops, coils, springs into a more modern or better flipper assembly, not about any desire to keep things original.

I appreciate everyone’s comments it would be great if VID1900 was still around earlier in the forum he would straight up give people the direction of what to buy.

Someone must have done a Flash Gordon not exactly a rare machine.

The legends are true, Vid has never been wrong about anything that I have been able to determine, and this is one of my all time fave upgrades.

The Flash Gordon at the Arcade has had this system in it for 4 years, and still plays like it's on fire. It's been a while, but I don't recall having any trouble putting them in this machine. I would recommend adding the capacitor used on the pre-fliptronic system, as it extends the life of the EOS significantly. After 4 years of commercial use, even the EOS switch is still in great shape!

My setup includes; 16630 flipper coils, A-12111 coil stops, and of course the high voltage normally closed EOS, with the capacitor.

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5 months later
#2558 3 years ago
Quoted from Haymaker:

Do you have a current link or a part number for the proper EOS switch for classic bally to WPC flipper mech swap? Next time I rebuild I'll get the WPC stuff. Searching pinball life and other sites for "high voltage end of stroke" wasn't bringing me much luck.

You need this; https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-end-of-stroke-switch-normally-closed.html

WMS/Bally part number 03-7811

2 months later
#2601 3 years ago
Quoted from JohnTTwo:

I really do not know if ths is the right place to post this, but I watched a cool video from Jersey Jacks on flippers last week and can't find the thread.
I have 2 Addams family games and one played so much harder, I realized the flippers were pointing down the drain like 2 degrees compared to the other machine. Moved the flippers up so little you can hardly notice it and it is like a new game!
What is the best way to set the angle of flippers on a game?

My rule of thumb is to make it a perfect continuation of the angle of the return lane (if present), to prevent any ball hop or slow down. This way the ball whips up or down between flipper bat and lane. The old Williams generally still line up well and don't often require much, though sometimes adjusting said return lane is needed to get it as smooth as possible. Using Cliffy replacement lane guides on my old Bally's like 8BD and Flash Gordon makes it smooth as butter and fast as hell, combined with a modern Fliptronics system with 11630's as described in this thread. My single fave mod of all, thanks to vid1900 and this thread!

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