(Topic ID: 18292)

VID's Guide to Upgrading/Rebuilding Flippers

By vid1900

11 years ago


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  • Latest reply 10 days ago by cnordquist
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Topic index (key posts)

15 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #6 Get the right EOS switch Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #8 Make System 11 Flippers Feel Tight Like Fliptronic Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #88 Replace Old Series Coils With New Parallel Coils Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #140 Udate Old Solid State Flippers Into Fliptronic Style Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #292 List of games with longer/shorter flipper travel Posted by vid1900 (10 years ago)

Post #294 Rebuilding 1967-1979 Flippers Posted by vid1900 (10 years ago)

Post #390 Coil stop differences between system 11 and Fliptronic Posted by vid1900 (10 years ago)

Post #520 Rebuilding Bally Linear Flippers Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)


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#177 10 years ago

I've rebuilt flippers a number of times before but have now run into a problem. When I attached the flipper bat rod, I clamped down on the rod fully by making the metal "open" sides of the clamp touch. This would still allow the rod to slip relative to the clamp. I continued to tighten, then check, then tighten, etc... eventually, the bolt sheared. This happened twice.

Am I missing something?

#179 10 years ago

That's a good call, I didn't check if the bat was slipping on the rod. The bats are new too. I'll check, thanks.

#181 10 years ago

The shaft was slipping relative to the bat. The bat was new and I didn't even think to check that until Pafasa's suggestion.

It was exactly what I was missing!

Thanks!

1 month later
#207 10 years ago

Tkaye, a rebuild focuses more on the physical performance. You are describing an electrical problem. Rebuilds are great for weak flippers. I wouldn't expect a rebuild to fix your problem.

#209 10 years ago

The issues sound like those that were experienced by the Data East machines with the solid state flipper boards. The fuse holders were weak, would break, and would allow intermittent electrical connections for both the initial flip and the hold circuits.

I don't know if the modern Sterns have this issue also.

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