(Topic ID: 18292)

VID's Guide to Upgrading/Rebuilding Flippers

By vid1900

11 years ago


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  • Latest reply 7 days ago by cnordquist
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Topic index (key posts)

15 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #6 Get the right EOS switch Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #8 Make System 11 Flippers Feel Tight Like Fliptronic Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #88 Replace Old Series Coils With New Parallel Coils Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #140 Udate Old Solid State Flippers Into Fliptronic Style Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #292 List of games with longer/shorter flipper travel Posted by vid1900 (10 years ago)

Post #294 Rebuilding 1967-1979 Flippers Posted by vid1900 (10 years ago)

Post #390 Coil stop differences between system 11 and Fliptronic Posted by vid1900 (10 years ago)

Post #520 Rebuilding Bally Linear Flippers Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)


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#256 10 years ago
Quoted from mof:

1. What are the little black rubber pieces called that cushion the arm when it slams into the plate?

Williams/Bally Rubber Bumper Plug/Grommet
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=276

10 months later
#458 9 years ago
Quoted from Ed731:

I think it is a capacitor

This is a diode on the switch matrix. It isn't common for them to fail, except where they experience high vibrations--something the flipper assembly will provide. I would just replace the diode with a new one. Any 1N400x (where x is 1, 4 or 7, so 1N4004) will work there. Make sure the band is in the same direction.

If it's not the diode, look for a bad connector, or possibly broken resistor capacitor array next to the connector on the Sys11 main board (I fought with that issue on my F14 that was causing phantom tilts---I posted pictures of the problem and repair in another thread).

You definitely want to get the EOS switch working. If it isn't sensing it (always off), then you will run the risk of burning out the coil, melting the sleeve/increasing binding in the flipper assembly or shorting out a driving transistor on the CPU if you hold the coil on (like to stop the ball at the base of the flipper bat). If it always is sensing it (always on) then you will never have enough strength in the flipper to hit a ball as only the holding coil is working not the main driving coil.

If you have a multi-meter you can test it to be sure, but since they cost around 5 cents each, easier to just replace it to be sure. Not sure where you picked up that it is a capacitor from the manual? Were you looking at the 2.2uf bright yellow rectangle capacitor that is secured to the side of the leaf holder that goes across the high voltage inner switch to reduce the pitting it gets from the high amp discharge on each flip? -- Yours does not look like it uses the newer coils/assemblies that require the capacitor. I think some F14's did upgrade to them while older ones didn't use them due to different coils.

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