(Topic ID: 18292)

VID's Guide to Upgrading/Rebuilding Flippers


By vid1900

7 years ago



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  • 392 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 66 days ago by joseph5185
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Topic index (key posts)

14 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #6 Get the right EOS switch Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)

Post #8 Make System 11 Flippers Feel Tight Like Fliptronic Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)

Post #88 Replace Old Series Coils With New Parallel Coils Posted by vid1900 (6 years ago)

Post #140 Udate Old Solid State Flippers Into Fliptronic Style Posted by vid1900 (6 years ago)

Post #292 List of games with longer/shorter flipper travel Posted by vid1900 (5 years ago)

Post #294 Rebuilding 1967-1979 Flippers Posted by vid1900 (5 years ago)

Post #390 Coil stop differences between system 11 and Fliptronic Posted by vid1900 (5 years ago)

Post #520 Rebuilding Bally Linear Flippers Posted by vid1900 (4 years ago)

Post #710 Classic Bally Early Solid State Flippers Posted by vid1900 (4 years ago)

Post #712 Coil Stop Wear Posted by vid1900 (4 years ago)

Post #713 Plunger wear Posted by vid1900 (4 years ago)


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#1654 2 years ago

I recently went through this build, and it's all working great, but I have a question:

How tight should a flipper crank be? I find it difficult to get the flippers to not float over time lower, and I'm nervous about torquing down too hard on the cranks. Should I be?

3 months later
#1774 2 years ago
Quoted from dozer1:

Vids extension spring upgrade applied to my storm door handle. It is in fact a small compression spring inside that had broke and failed. For the time being I did this and it works better then it ever did. I think it's cool looking too. Another temporary fix gone permanent.

This made my afternoon.

1 year later
#2023 1 year ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Each leg of the Cap goes to one switch contact:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers#post-284671
Figure #9 tells you the wiring:

How do you feel about adding an capacitor to early Bally solid states? They don't seem to have one from factory, and I know some restoration folks add them.

4 months later
#2136 10 months ago

Hey vid1900, I apologize if this has been mentioned before, I had trouble searching for it. This may not matter at all and I'm getting way too detail oriented. I'm not sure if there is any actual polarity involved here.

In your early Bally tutorial, you demonstrate the reverse of the coil direction, and you use this photo:

58d52836c6c825a09d2388f4d6bc3290f4fa8ec2.jpg

Upon re-assembly in my restoration, I'm looking at this photo I took of the original wiring of the flipper, as you can see here:

012718205634.jpg

I've reversed the coil orientation as you suggest. This was a NOS assembly, so Bally could easily have had it wired it slightly differently, though it did work prior to teardown

If I am reading this right, your two lugs on the EOS switch are attached to the middle and "bottom" lug of the coil in the photo. If you reverse the coil orientation on my photo, you would also be attaching the two lugs on the EOS to the middle and "bottom" lug, but the switch lugs would be connected the reverse of your coil lugs. Does that matter in any way?

#2138 10 months ago
Quoted from vid1900:

^ The switch has no polarity.
Everything you do, MUST line up with the diode(s) on your flipper.
Up, down, bottom - don't worry about orientation, just worry about putting the wires back on the lugs using the diodes as your guide.

Forgive me, but that would require that I know how to use the diodes as a guide.

It sounds like as long as the colors go back to the sides they were originally on, we are good, right? So in my photo, green stays on the same lug it was on before, and brown stays on the same lug (though the brown ones are interchangeable because the switch has no polarity). Right?

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