(Topic ID: 18292)

VID's Guide to Upgrading/Rebuilding Flippers


By vid1900

7 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 2,364 posts
  • 395 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 days ago by LGFAutos
  • Topic is favorited by 1,083 Pinsiders
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Topic index (key posts)

14 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #6 Get the right EOS switch Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)

Post #8 Make System 11 Flippers Feel Tight Like Fliptronic Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)

Post #88 Replace Old Series Coils With New Parallel Coils Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)

Post #140 Udate Old Solid State Flippers Into Fliptronic Style Posted by vid1900 (6 years ago)

Post #292 List of games with longer/shorter flipper travel Posted by vid1900 (6 years ago)

Post #294 Rebuilding 1967-1979 Flippers Posted by vid1900 (6 years ago)

Post #390 Coil stop differences between system 11 and Fliptronic Posted by vid1900 (5 years ago)

Post #520 Rebuilding Bally Linear Flippers Posted by vid1900 (5 years ago)

Post #710 Classic Bally Early Solid State Flippers Posted by vid1900 (4 years ago)

Post #712 Coil Stop Wear Posted by vid1900 (4 years ago)

Post #713 Plunger wear Posted by vid1900 (4 years ago)


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#394 5 years ago

This great thread! Really helpful. Did you do this on the PAPA website? It the exact samething thing. Just curious! I cant flip my coils around on my High Speed, its not designed like that and after viewing other peoples High Speeds its the same as mine, coil lugs same side as coil stop. Gonna do the updated spring hook up. Thanks.

#406 5 years ago

So what about the upper flipper in High Speed, would it benefit with a spring upgrade? So Iam gonna get the rebuild kit that you linked for the flippers, gonna get the high voltage EOS switches you linked, the brackets as well you linked for High Speed. I decided not to do the capacitors, only because the type of coil on High Speed dont require it. The EOS is no big deal to clean. So is my list of things to get sound? Thanks

#410 5 years ago

Hey Vid, I ordered everything for High Speed's flipper upgrade that you suggested, but have a question about the coil stops in the flipper rebuild kit you linked for the upgrade. You mention to get different EOS switches (I did), but what about those coil stops as they seem that photo you showed with the system 11 coil stop up against the fliptronic coil stop. We need to change out those stops correct?

Also on the lane change and eos switch stack on the factory base plate bracket there is a metal spacer between the lane change switch and eos switch, and the new base plate brackets you recommend ( I ordered 3 by the way, 2 rights and 1 left.) do not have that metal spacer there. Can you explain why the factory has this metal spacer in place, and do I need to do something to the new base plate brackets when I get them in the mail? Thanks Vid, cant wait to experience the difference in play, oh and I'am doing the upper right flipper the same as the 2 lower. Jeff

#412 5 years ago

Vid, I'am going to be using the same coils I have in the machine now (theres nothing wrong with them at this time) will they be in tight on the new base plate brackets? Thanks

#414 5 years ago

Its close to the base plate on High Speed, almost the same. www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=709 See the small spacer tab where the stack switch (EOS and lane change) goes?

Here is a picture of my LEFT side flipper assembly currently on my High Speed, look where the metal spacer tab separates the lane change and EOS? How am I gonna mount this on the new base plate brackets? Thanks1797335_10201309980141275_124244106_n.jpg1797335_10201309980141275_124244106_n.jpg

#415 5 years ago

Vid, were we suppose to buy these for the new mounting plates? http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=368 They don't show these in the pic on pinballlife. Let me know?

Just called Terry and he said that to use the bracket that's on my current base plate and just transfer it to the new mounting plate. He said he was 99.9% percent sure its gonna work. He said what you see in the pic. on his website is what you get, and I didn't see the coil mounting bracket is why I asked.

#419 5 years ago

Ok, thanks Vid! You mention something about aligning the flipper and you said to clamp a piece of wood down to hold flipper in place. I'am not understanding exactly where you would do this, where you would clamp, pictures always help. Also, on the gap gauge tool that goes between flipper bat and bushing, do you have to cut the credit card just like the gap tool or can you just stick the card up under there, tighten down, and pull it out. I also posted a picture like you requested showing that spacer tab and I like to see what you think on how the mounting of the switch stack goes on the new mounting plates without this spacer there?. Thanks, Jeff

#423 5 years ago

Thanks VID, I'll update when I get her installed. Parts will be in Wed. or Thurs. next week.

#424 5 years ago

Just a quick heads up for those upgrading with the retention spring and having to buy new mounting plates, well you may not need the new mounting plates at all and all you need is the taller bracket with the hole for retention return spring, here http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-9375 Its to late for me (3 new mounting plates already been ordered) but others can just get the bracket and save abit of cash.

2 weeks later
#430 5 years ago

Ok, I got the rebuild done on all 3 flippers on High Speed. I played first game and wow, flippers were strong and snappy, but after 15-20 min. the left flipper got real weak and barely hit the ball mid field. I pulled the glass and lifted up the playfield and felt the left coil a lot warmer then the right one and both coils are loose in the bracket. I tried squeezing my hardest but it wont sit tight. Not sure what to do, as I don't think the loose coils are the problem as I mentioned the right and upper flipper are excellent in strength. Upper flipper coil is tight in bracket, all coil brackets seem square. Thinking of c-clamping both ends while I tighten the hex bolts on the coil stop. This has beemn a frustrating adventure. I only done one other rebuild on this machine 4 years ago and did it in 30 min. and had no issues. I'am now maybe 15 hours total trying to get this setup to work. Also the right flipper has about 1 1/2 play up and down movement and the left one has about 1/8-1/4 of a inch of play up and down, upper flipper has about an 1/8th of a inch also, but like I mentioned the right and upper flipper are performing strong its the left one giving me all sorts of problems. I assembled all three flippers the same way, so not understanding why all 3 have different play. What am I doing wrong here? Yes I did make a gap tool out of an old credit card, yes I inserted it between the flipper and flipper bushing, I pushed the bat down on top of the gap tool and tightened the pawl a little and then aligned the flippers, and tighten down to hold flipper in place. This just has not gone as easy as my first rebuild. I also had difficulty in putting in those small return springs in those holes and kinda stretch the springs some getting it in the holes. Still have the snappyness and the spring snaps the flipper back to the resting spot, but there has to be a better way to install these springs, yes I used needle pliers and they stretched the damn spring at the ends. On this rebuild the I had to use system 11 coil stops ( good thing I ordered them) as the ones that come with the kit did not fit and are longer then the system 11's, also had to use the old hex bolts for the coil stops as the new ones did not want to go in. Sorry for the long post, I just trying to give you an idea on what I did, and whats going on to see where my problem is. Vid1900 you mention using a rat tail file to elongate the holes so the coil tightens in the bracket, what holes are you referring too and what is a rat tail file? Thanks.

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