(Topic ID: 18292)

VID's Guide to Upgrading/Rebuilding Flippers

By vid1900

11 years ago


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  • Latest reply 12 days ago by cnordquist
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Topic index (key posts)

15 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #6 Get the right EOS switch Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #8 Make System 11 Flippers Feel Tight Like Fliptronic Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #88 Replace Old Series Coils With New Parallel Coils Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #140 Udate Old Solid State Flippers Into Fliptronic Style Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #292 List of games with longer/shorter flipper travel Posted by vid1900 (10 years ago)

Post #294 Rebuilding 1967-1979 Flippers Posted by vid1900 (10 years ago)

Post #390 Coil stop differences between system 11 and Fliptronic Posted by vid1900 (10 years ago)

Post #520 Rebuilding Bally Linear Flippers Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)


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#2457 3 years ago

I've just done a full rebuild of my left flipper, replaced the coil too as the sleeve was stuck fast in it.

Two questions, whilst the right flipper is working fine, since I bought two new coils and rebuild kit for both sides, is it worth just spending another hour or two (yes I'm slow doing this ) to do the right as well? Or should I just put the 2nd coil/kit to one side and wait until there's wear or signs of issues with the right flipper?

Second question is regarding the EOS switch. The guide says 3.2mm gap, although manual for BOP says 0.062inch +- 0.015inch. I take it that distance is measured between the two round contact points that touch when the switch is closed? Is the manual correct for gap distance, it's about 1.57mm give or take vs 3.2mm in this guide?

#2459 3 years ago
Quoted from Black_Knight:

I always rebuild both at the same time. You will likely see a difference after you play for a while and it'll always be in the back of your mind.
However you don't need to change the coil unless it is bad. That should save you about an hour of soldering time.
I'd stick with the official BOP gap, the guide has too many different models to be accurate on everything.

I decided to rebuild it then I won't be wondering if one is playing better than the other. Didn't take as long as the first despite taking my time Glad I did too, the bushing only had 2 screws holding it in and no nuts on the rear. The coil whilst working had one diode soldered to the lug in a bit of a messy way (working but messy) and the sleeve was stuck inside so I just replaced the coil at the same time.

I think next time I need to buy anything for the machine I'll pickup a leaf tool as adjusting the EOS gap was a bit tricky with just a screw driver.

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