Quoted from lightingnut:How do you tell if a cap is polarized or non-polarized?
You need this cap.
(Topic ID: 18292)
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Black Knight
Williams, 1980-
Indiana Jones: The Pinball Adventure
Williams, 1993
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Quoted from lightingnut:Will it hurt anything to play the game with the cap missing?
Not in the short term.
1 month later
Quoted from rcbrown316:I just want to confirm that is the right one
That is a cabinet double flipper switch. You need this instead.
Quoted from rcbrown316:So just add that onto the existing stack on the new assy?
Yep!
Quoted from Kjarkur:I'm wondering if it makes sense to add capacitors to the eos switches of a wpc?
Are you using a fliptronic board, then no. But if you are using parallel wound coils on a WPC flipper bracket, then yes use a cap.
1 month later
Quoted from sethbenjamin:Are these then parallel coils?
No.
Quoted from sethbenjamin:Could a capacitor be added to reduce arcing, like they ended up doing on system 11 games?
Yes, but may not help too much.
Quoted from slochar:What is the definition of parallel coil then?
A parallel coil has the input power going to both windings at the same time. A series wound coil has power go through the hold winding first and then through the power winding.
Quoted from slochar:I unwound a bally coil a while ago and there are 2 windings, the power stroke in the center against the bobbin and the hold coil wrapped around it.
Both parallel and series coils can be made the same just like this, all that matters is how the end of the windings are connected together.
Quoted from slochar:So there's really a redundant diode on bally/stern flippers then?
No not really, there is a diode for each winding separately. Williams used one diode across both windings together.
Quoted from slochar:Nothing to prevent you from rearranging the wiring from the coils themselves to be actual parallel?
You can if you like. First pic is a stock wiring. Second pic is for parallel, you need to reverse the hold winding diode. Then move the power wire from lug #1 to lug #2. Move the ground wire from lug #3 to lug #1. Connect the EOS switch from lug #1 to lug #3 instead of lug #1 to lug #2. Piece of cake.
lll (resized).PNGlll (resized).PNGQuoted from slochar:you should be able to rewire otherwise perfectly good series wound coils to be the parallel equivalent, mark the wrapper, and save the cost of buying a new coil.
You can but is it worth it? Most people will be confused from the diode and wiring changes and assume it's wrong.
I don't know of any performance benefits from parallel coils. The EOS switch last longer because of a spark arrestor cap, so this would enhance performance between service calls. But that's about it, no magic here. Return spring design will make more of a difference then replacement of the coil.
11 months later
Quoted from RichWolfson:I thought I would post here rather than in the Pin•Bot thread as it may be of interest for other System 11 noobs. I have had this machine for over 20 years and it's working perfectly so I am in the process of making it better, an affliction that affects many of us here. Having a separate set of flipper mechanisms with connectors seems to make sense.
Over time I have put together the parts, I think, to redo the flipper mechs to semi-fliptronics. New everything. I saw no need to go to parallel coils but PinCoil wrapper diagrams, Marcos, are wrong and dangerous (thank you Grumpy). Now they look original with new wrappers.
What you see in the picture is a dry assembly with a short piece of drill rod to hold it all together. First issue was that the new style plunger was not hitting the coil stop. I got the slightly longer stop and now it hits and looks correct but the switch stack seems not to be positioned right. As you can see, the plunger is all the way in and still doesn't hit the switch EOS or lane change.
So appealing to the collective wisdom, will it be better when the crank is tightened? I really only wanted to tighten it once. The sleeve is protruding from the coil at the diodes so that seems right. It's a new style link and I am not sure if the old style link lets the plunger to go in a bit deeper assuming I go back to the shorter stop. But frankly I think the original stops are too short. I am considering simply elongating the switch bracket holes and moving it towards the coil. But I can imagine 100s of you have been here before so before I do any stupid, I would ask. Of course in dealing with a Pin, there could be 100 things I missed.
So here I am. Am I missing something here? Do I really have to bend the switch blades and move on? I'll take any suggestions other than just leave it as the ones currently installed are working fine.
Thanks as always. The Pinside community is the best.
///Rich
[quoted image]
Looking very nice Rich! Now to the fine adjustments, remove one of the switch stack spacers from the lane change switch and add it to the EOS switch stack. Recheck your adjustment.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-7007-16
Here are some longer insulation tubes from Marco's. You can buy the correct length or just use long ones and cut to size.
I just use the tinnerman nuts and wood screws like you have there, they work fine.
Quoted from RichWolfson:I moved the spacer and it's close. I think I will just shave it a little as there is nothing too significant to fiddle with to get it to the required 1/8" full open.
The spacers come in different thicknesses, always keep the ones from old switch stacks in your parts box.
Quoted from RichWolfson:I wish there was a good picture out there to copy.
Hep does plugs on all coils he works on. Lots of pics in his thread. If it was me I would use .093 pins for the coil wires and .062 pins for the lane change switch. No chance of mixing them up.
Hep (resized).PNGspacer (resized).PNG 11 months later
Quoted from Dakine747:Thanks! I didn’t realize that the bakelite came apart that easily! Rather than use the old stack, I removed a few of the spacers, and ended up with the exact same switch stack thicknesses without using the old ones. Thankfully there were multiple thin segments rather than larger single segments, so it was simple to do. And the extra length of tubing through the stack was easily trimmable with an exacto knife. Now all is well.
Keep all the spacers from switch stacks for the next time you may need them.
10 months later
Quoted from Gunner007:I couldn't find any thing in the thread but is it possible to just buy the arm with the hole to upgrade the spring on the flipper. circled in the pic.
Thanks
[quoted image]
Yes PBL sells them.
2 weeks later
Quoted from Methos:I have a similar issue with a Grand Lizard that I just picked up. It just flaps back and forth - see video.
The game was just working and did travel a bit to get here. I did change the EOS switch to see if it the switch was bad- but no change. I adjusted the blades and back and forth - if I put them too far away from the coil, the spark arc stays on - which I know isn't good.
Any suggestions?
The thin hold coil wire is broken, see if it is broken at the coil lug, if so you can unwrap some wire by removing the wrapper. Then sand the enamel coating off the end and resolder it to the lug and your back in bussiness.
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