Hi guys. Noob owner of a White Water here. Question on the flippers:

Strength of all 3 is good
Position when at rest look good (aligned nicely with return lane)
My issue is when I fire the flippers, the right bat does not have as high of a stroke as the left bat

How do I correct this? Again, brand new here. So thanks for the help.

Ok, so not an adjustment issue? A rebuild will be a fun challenge for me. I'm so new to this that I am yet to change a bulb might as well jump right in.

Thanks Vid. About to order the kit you linked to. Should I also buy bushings? Also, will I need the spacing tool? I read a bit about those but don't see for sale on PB Life. Just wanting to make sure I order everything I need.

Thanks,

Brian

Hello Vid, I just rebuilt my WH20 flippers. All seemed fine, but after a couple of games I got an error message to check EOS. I readjusted them a little and that seemed to clear the error. But during flipper test mode am having an issue: When I do the 'Hold' test, the left flipper will not raise up and hold. I can hear a little electrical pulse, but does not raise. When I help it by manually pushing it up, it will then hold.

Does this mean I don't have the EOS adjusted correctly?

One final issue I noticed is that the heat shrink rubber (that covers the contact point between the EOS and the pawl) doesn't quite go high enough and there is a little metal to metal contact when the flipper goes through its stroke. Is this an issue?

Thanks for the help.

Thanks Vid. Actually, did have the shrink tubing on the arm, just contacted EOS in a funny way. I ended up re-heating some new shrink tubing that extended a longer way up the arm so as to eliminate metal contact..

EOS was in fact installed to be CLOSED at end of stroke, but I guess it just needed an adjustment as I have cleared the credit dot.

My main issue was that FLIPPER HOLD test in the menu. I read somewhere else on Pinside it is relatively normal for the flipper to not raise itself up during that test, and as long as it would stay up and "held" in position, then the switch is working correctly. Does that sound right?

Either way, flippers feel fantastic! This was a really fun project for this Noob and I really appreciate this thread. Thanks Vid. What a thrill to make my 22 year old game play like it is factory fresh!

A question to follow up my recent WH20 flipper upgrade:

I notice now that during play when I execute a dead bounce pass from one flipper to the other, there is a very slight give in the flipper that "softens" the bounce pass and makes the ball more prone to a drain.

I first assumed I didn't tighten down the flipper bat shaft, but I actually broke the threaded screw portion the first time I adjusted and tightened. So I think they are tight enough (the flippers don't move out of their current adjustment). I also used the spacer tool to create the small gap between the flipper and the top of the bushing. could it be I have too big of space? Wondering if it could be something else to adjust, like maybe the nut on the link?

FYI, using all new parts (including bushings), so this may just be how the game is supposed to "feel" now. But thought I would ask the experts. Maybe I am just being overly anal.

Thanks guys.

Bushing is new. I will check how square (and snug) the coil stop is. When I tightened down the coil stop I held it tight against coil to try to eliminate any coil sliding (I believe I read that at beginning of thread).

Vid, getting ready for my second rebuild (Johnny mnemonic). I saw a thread debating the quality of different flipper parts suppliers. On my recent WH20 rebuild, the threaded shaft of the pawl snapped when I was tightening the bat down. May have just been a fluke, but-

My question: who do recommend for parts on WPC rebuilds? Specifically, does someone like PBR produce a better quality? I don't mind paying a little more if there is any difference.

Thanks for the help.

All right guys. Having a little issue after my rebuild and I need some help because I cant figure out what is causing this.

When I fire the flipper, it occasionally "sticks" a little as it returns to the rested position. It doesn't seem to do it with the power off when I lift the flipper manually with my finger. I rebuilt whole thing with all new parts (including new coil). Also tightened the pawl assembly with the little gap tool on top of playfield b/w the flipper bat.. Almost seems like the coil is staying slightly magnetized? Or could it be the pawl assembly? At first I thought I didn't tighten down the flipper bat enough, but I have confirmed that is not the issue, very tight.

Here is a video of the issue. Sorry, I filmed it upside down, but you will still see the issue:

Thanks for any help.

I will remove coil stop and try to clean out and report back.

No, just shadows and reflections off the metal.

Hey guys, thanks for the help on the gummed up flipper issue a couple posts up. I removed coil stop, sleeve, and coil. I blew inside coil. I replaced coil sleeve (even though the other one was about 2 weeks old). I also really polished up the plunger. the combination of these things did the trick. so I still don't know why, but I think Vid was right, may have been getting crudded up somewhere.

Thanks for the help as always.

Vid- question regarding system 11 flippers and the conical spring. I just picked up a Taxi with the modern return spring but it is hooked around the zip tie holding resistor. Is this right / wrong / good / bad?

Assuming it is ideal to drill the small hole and make it permanent. But is this better than conical spring? I'm a little nervous to try to drill (I'm still pretty new to all this). Do I just want to use a metal-specific bit and clamp the piece down in a vice? Any specific bit that works?

Vid - a flipper question that is more of a button question. I noticed on my Taxi the buttons feel very stiff. Harder to depress them than my WPC games. Is there an easy way to address this? I like the softer feel of my other games and I don't know if there is a spring in the button housing I could change. Or just the switch I am making contact with when I push them in. Is there a way to break the switch in so it gives a little looser play? Any thoughts or insight would be appreciated.

Vid, just rebuilt the flippers on my taxi and they play fantastic now. I think the culprit was a worn out EOS that was making it hard to hit the left ramp shot.

When I was halfway through the rebuild I decided to play a game and noticed that the new coil stop I installed was shorter than the old one, i.e the flipper travel is now higher than it was before. is this correct for a System 11 game? I purchased the rebuild kit from Pinball Life, so I assume I bought the right one, it just feels very different as I am not used to it..

I did take your advice and drill the small hole to accommodate the fliptronic style return spring. I do notice it is snappier. But wondering if I should have the longer coil stops too?

Vid / Everyone,

Having an issue with my upper flipper on WH20. Did the rebuild about 6 months ago and all worked fine until recently. When button is depressed, the flipper will snap with power but won't stay in the up position while i hold. It does snap with power though. I made sure all wires are still strongly soldered to coil and EOS. I also tried to play around with EOS gap, with no luck.

As I said, was working great for about 6 months, so dont really know how to trouble shoot. Here is a video I shot of it:

Thanks Vid. I got a decent pic of the top and bottom of the lug where the hold wire attaches (according to manual it is orange/violet). Looks pretty good, in the pic, but wonder if you see something. Guessing next move is to remove coil?

IMG_2808_(resized).JPG

IMG_2809_(resized).JPG

Thanks guys. I checked resistance across the 'hold' portion of the coil (Outside Orange/Violet with positive lead and blue/yellow with negative lead) and got a reading of 2.583 M Ohms. According to the coil specs, it should have a reading of 160 Ohms. assuming that means i have a bad coil?

I checked the two lower flipper coils just to make sure my technique was correct and I got the correct values on those coils (Blue and orange coil, so different resistance.).

Looks like I am going to go buy a new red coil unless someone thinks i need to try something else first.

Thanks Vid. Replaced coil and now all good. The coil must have had a break somewhere in that red wire. Way above my pay grade to find and fix. I'm fine with dropping $14 bucks and replacing.