(Topic ID: 18292)

VID's Guide to Upgrading/Rebuilding Flippers

By vid1900

11 years ago


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  • Latest reply 12 days ago by cnordquist
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Topic index (key posts)

15 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #6 Get the right EOS switch Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #8 Make System 11 Flippers Feel Tight Like Fliptronic Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #88 Replace Old Series Coils With New Parallel Coils Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #140 Udate Old Solid State Flippers Into Fliptronic Style Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #292 List of games with longer/shorter flipper travel Posted by vid1900 (10 years ago)

Post #294 Rebuilding 1967-1979 Flippers Posted by vid1900 (10 years ago)

Post #390 Coil stop differences between system 11 and Fliptronic Posted by vid1900 (10 years ago)

Post #520 Rebuilding Bally Linear Flippers Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#1950 6 years ago

I have been upgrading my Firepower 2 flippers recently and learned a lot from reading this whole thread.

My original flippers were a cocktail of series and parallel coils. The coil stops were odd, and the EOS bracket is spot welded to the base plate - so I just went ahead and bought all the bits I needed for completely new mechs. In this case the 92-93 Williams kit and extra bits and pieces. All except the solenoid brackets which didn’t come with the rebuild kit - so I farmed them from the old mechs and then cut a slot into for the coil lug.

Don’t forget to apply heat shrink to the capacitor wire and the EOS contact point on the flipper pawl.

At first I thought the EOS switch stack was held together by the thread on the screw so went ahead and bought some nuts and bolts to hold it together - and had to cut the bolts down with a Dremel. I later realised that the screw pulls the switch stack together because of a small retaining plate called a Tinnerman Speednut. No matter.

As vid1900 writes - do all the fiddly work on the bench. I wasn’t sure how to attach the capacitor to the EOS switch so just did what I thought made sense and left enough room for the later soldering. The capacitor is not polarised so can be attached in any direction. The pics might help someone.

I just need to affix them to the machine now and work out what to solder where.

Pics are out of order sorry.

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5 months later
#2049 5 years ago

We need a Vids guide to rebuilding and adjusting switches on slingshots.

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