(Topic ID: 18292)

VID's Guide to Upgrading/Rebuilding Flippers

By vid1900

11 years ago


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  • Latest reply 12 days ago by cnordquist
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Topic index (key posts)

15 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #6 Get the right EOS switch Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #8 Make System 11 Flippers Feel Tight Like Fliptronic Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #88 Replace Old Series Coils With New Parallel Coils Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #140 Udate Old Solid State Flippers Into Fliptronic Style Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #292 List of games with longer/shorter flipper travel Posted by vid1900 (10 years ago)

Post #294 Rebuilding 1967-1979 Flippers Posted by vid1900 (10 years ago)

Post #390 Coil stop differences between system 11 and Fliptronic Posted by vid1900 (10 years ago)

Post #520 Rebuilding Bally Linear Flippers Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)


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#1830 6 years ago

Is there a trick to getting the spring put into the holes? I use needle nose pliers, but it's near impossible to not bend the ends and occasionally have the spring hanging precariously.

#1833 6 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Push forward then back to get the whole loop into the hole.

Sort of like a keychain?

1 month later
#1840 6 years ago

Here's a super newb question... When using a toothpick to line up the flippers, the toothpick is not tight in the hole so it moves around. When you push the flipper against the toothpick, it moves around as you tighten. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to line it up accurately?

I generally use the toothpicks as a guide, eyeball it, and then use a digital inclinometer to see that it's roughly in line with the ball guide, but there must be a better way!

#1842 6 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

Thicker toothpick?

Hahaha yes I tried that too. But toothpick still seems to wobble around a little bit. Seems the whole is not deep enough to hold it firmly. Is it just my game perhaps? Do you guys find that the toothpick holds in well enough to apply pressure and it doesn't move?

#1845 6 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

Shouldn't it go all the way through?

Doesn't seem to. I'll trying finding a drill bit that fits and see if that holds it in place better. But when you start tightening underneath, the flipper will move with each rotation. What do you guys do to keep it in place where you've set it?

#1848 6 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I hold it in place by hand and tighten the pawl until there is some grip but I can still position the flipper bat.
At that time you an either "eye-ball" it, or use the hole in the playfield with a small drill bit under the rubber to get factory settings.
I tend to set the flippers above the hole in the playfield by 3/64" more or less to allow for better backhand shots on some games.
Check that the flipper is not riding on the bushing, it should have a little more than 1/32" of gap (thickness of a heavy business card)
Check that plunger is more or less straight coming out of the coil and not binding when its at rest.
With the return spring disconnected the flipper should have little or no resistance (other than the EOS switch pressure) at all and feel loose.
If the flipper is where you want it, tighten the flipper pawl until the bat is locked in place.
The flipper bat might move a tiny bit so just adjust it as you go. Its not an exact thing thats clamped down for assembly.
When done it should be very tight but dont break off the bolt. I use a 3/8" socket wrench for this.
If the flipper moves during a game, you didnt tighten it enough.

Sounds like what I do. Thanks for taking the time to write that all out

I use the spacer tool in between the flipper bat and bushing. But under the pf, there is usually a space between the pawl and the bushing as you tight it to the shaft. Do you push the pawl upward to close that gap?

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